Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making

MastersWatchMakingBook1 Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making I don't read a lot of books on watches. There sure are enough of them out there. Large, pretty coffee table books designed to be skimmed through while sitting in a large easy chair listening listening to background jazz and perhaps enjoying a scotch. These luxo-tomes are meant for high-end collectors, and priced as such. That doesn't mean they are well written. Most of them list facts, but the best of them are actually worth a read. This is one of them. It also helps that it looks nice and have gorgeously printed images. Images that put even the best computer images to shame. I kid you not when saying that many of the images in the book look better than the real life timepieces.

MastersWatchMakingBook7 Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making

MastersWatchMakingBook5 Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making

The book is "Masters of Contemporary Watch Making," and it is on just that. Talented watch writer and journalist Michael Clerizo (who writes about watch for the Wall Street Journal) selected many of today's most talented and popular independent watch makers and wanted to write about who they are. There are other similar books on this topic such as 12 Faces of Time (that I reviewed), but Masters of Contemporary Watch Making predates it. The idea of understanding watch makers is a popular theme - and can be quite vexing. Watch maker's aren't always know to be the most open or social. It is often understand that to undertake the profession of watch maker is not only a serious ordeal born of passion and a fixation on minutiae, but also a lifetime dedication.

MastersWatchMakingBook4 Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making

Clerizo's tactic was to actually invade the watch maker's element. Not just visit them, but spend an extended period of time with them. Interviewing them and seeing them live and work. The result is quite intimate. You see Clerizo hold back a lot of the time. He clearly learned a great deal of wonderful things from his experience, but needed to keep it brief given that the book focuses on 11 watch makers, and even refers to a good deal others. A lot of these people are true characters in their own right , and what you get is a mere glimpse.

MastersWatchMakingBook6 Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making

What can one gleam from such a brief "visit" with these watch makers? Actually a lot. Clerizo keeps the book open to all readers. Watch nerds will find a lot to appreciate, and novices who know nothing about how a watch works, or hasn't heard of any of these guys will still find things to be interested in. Though it is not a dumbed down text by any means. Clerizo is most focused on the people, their experiences, and most amusingly, their idiosyncrasies. A particularly good example of what you can expect is this excerpt from Clerizo's report on the talents and eccentric Vianney Halter. "[Halter is] a man who grew up in two converted railway carriages, learned English by watching Star Trek, admits to being jealous of his cat, has a sneaker named in his honor, relaxes by flying a plane, calls himself a crazy French watchmaker, and creates watches unlike nay ever seen before."

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The list of watch makers that Clerizo features includes:

  • George Daniels
  • Svend Andersen
  • Vincent Calabrese
  • Philippe Dufour
  • Antoine Prezuiso
  • Franck Muller
  • Aniceto Jimenez Pita
  • Alain Silberstein
  • Marco Lang
  • Vianney Halter
  • Roger Smith

MastersWatchMakingBook3 Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making

Like I said, the rear section of the book includes a lot more than that, and Clerizo offers a handy glossary as well. OK, so these guys make amazing watches and are interesting people. But why the big deal? Well from a sociological standpoint it is interesting profile people who go into the same career, achieve success at it, and do something that from a functional perspective is sort of unnecessary. Common to all of these men is that they are brilliant (each in their own unique way), often times come from very humble beginnings, and would all be described as iconoclasts. Men like this drive the collector's market. They are the face behind high-end watches, because the timepieces that come out of the large groups have no one with faces behind them. When investing in a timepiece from one of these men, you are buying a piece of them. You are subscribing to what they believe in, their tastes, and the pride they have in their own work. Masters of Contemporary Watch Making helps us understand more about who these people are, why they do what they do, and does a good job at showing their work next to a profile of their personalities. Clerizo does all this in consumable prose, offering a glimpse not only into the men, but also their timepieces.

Masters of Contemporary Watch Making, published by Thames & Hudson retails for $85 and is available for purchase on Amazon. Book Review: Masters Of Contemporary Watch Making


Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.


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Interesting book. The price is refreshingly low -- many watch books, especially reference ones, cost hundreds of dollars.

Interesting article. I put the book on my Amazon.com "Wish List" (where the book is currently selling for forty bucks cheaper than the list price). As the first commenter mentioned I would love to have seen RGM included in the book, but I can't wait to dive right in when I get this tome.

Please continue to provide reviews of books like this as it provides younger (re: poor) watch admires like myself the ability to gain some knowledge and appreciate the watchmaking art when the watches themselves are still be beyond our means at this time.

I've owned this book. Actually I purchased three copies, two of which were given as gifts.

It's very good. My complaints about it are trivial. I few more shots of movements would have been nice. What annoyed me was the self-aggrandizement of some of the watchmakers. It's annoying and tiring. but i guess it's the copy that sells watches. You need something to buy into .I'm also disappointed in the amount of space given to their philosphical ramblings. Franck Muller is an excellent example of this. he prattles on about his greatness (and he is) then the pictures shown lack movements. The watches that are show the widely copied designs that can be found at Loehmann's for 15 bucks.

You don't need inspiration to put a dirtbag like Che' Guevara on a watch. There are plenty of well-to do Che' loving leftists in the free world who would buy such an item - and not understand the hypocrisy of having the image of a murdering communist psychopath on your watch emblazoned in jewels. Funny how this guy and Castro get this sort of treatment but try doing the same with Hitler. Maybe Hitler didn't have good PR guys like Sean Penn and Oliver Stone. But I digress.

I think the most enjoyable segment in this book are George Daniels and Vincent Calabrese - honest, humorous and totally lacking in B.S.

All in all I hope this book turns into a series. There are a lot of independents that were omitted. I think an obvious omission is Roland Murphy (RGM) and Jorge Schauer As well as the behind the scenes watchmakers that make custom movements.

Still - I want to know about the more commercial, high end makers. Maybe a tome featuring Jaeger leCoultre, Schauer, Lange and sohne, Glashutte, etc. Just leave out Rolex, Audemars, Patek, TAG, Longines, etc.

There are a lot of reasons for this. You have to understand that the author needed the watch makers to cooperate with him. It wasn't just him doing a short interview. As such he needed to not make them regret giving their time. You can read a lot between the lines. As for more on the large commercial watch makers... that is a whole other story, lol.

Don't get me wrong, Ariel. I really like the book. And I guess when all of these guys essentially went to the same school (save for a few like Daniels or Calabrese)
they need the shtick to distinguish themselves from their peers. I just have a hard time wading through the self-serving dreck to get to the good stuff.

I mean honestly - Bovet's latest watch is inspired by the designer's little boy? How can this be unless the kid looks like the mantle clock in "Beauty and The Beast"? How much of this can one person read before wretching?

I'd love to see a book that's a cross bewteen tis one and George Daniel's. A little more complicated, technically but with tons of nice photos and straightforward interviews.

One question Ariel - The definition of "independent".
If any one of the watchmakers featured in this book
decided to sell part of its business to - say - Swatch nd is allowed to continue doing the same excellent, unique work - does that still make them independent? how big do you have to be to be considered a commercial maker? I would think that any company that sells a product for profit should bear the "commercial" label.

I really would like to see a book on some of the more innovative commercial brands like DeWitt, Debethune, Jaeger Coultre, Azimuth, Lange and Sohne, Glashutte Original, Perregeaux, Nardin, Claret, Linde,etc. I guess you could call them the commercial mavericks!