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Fonderie 47 Transforming Cufflinks By Roland Iten

admin — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 08:02:58 +0000

While these cufflinks are not a watch and don’t tell the time, they are closely related to the watch industry. They are also the first cool item from an interesting brand which has just officially made its debut.

The brand is Fonderie 47 (which I will explain more below) and the man who designed these cuff links for them is Roland Iten - a friend and very talented inventor who conceives things like the world’s most expensive belt buckles. Now he has designed what is likely the world’s most complicated and expensive cuff links. Check out my coverage and video of a Roland Iten belt buckle here.

Roland Iten has not yet produced a watch, though he has designed a number of concept watches that if ever made will be truly incredible. Roland Iten’s workshops is actually part of the Richemont Group and his inventions are both useful and luxurious.

The Fonderie 47 Cufflinks are a shining example of the type of things that Roland can dream up. And as far as I know this is the only item that he has produced which has a purely aesthetic function. In short this is a men’s bracelet that transforms into a pair of cufflinks. You can then combine them again to be a wearable bracelet. I should note that these are not the first pair of cufflinks that Roland Iten has designed.

The cufflinks are going to be extremely limited in production. Only 20 pairs of this style will be produced. Using the same machines that produce Swiss watches, these cufflinks will be made from mostly 18k rose and white gold, as well as metal from an AK-47 assault rifle.

That latter part is no joke. Fonderie 47 items will all contain metal from AK-47s. In fact, the purpose of the brand is help rid Africa of assault rifles – the most common of which is the Russian-made AK-47. The durable and universally known machine gun that takes a lot of abuse will now find its way into high-end men’s and women’s items. For launch the brand is starting with a couple of rings and these cufflinks. Overtime they will release more items – all done as partnerships with some of the world’s best designers and craftspeople. And yes, at least one watch is coming.

The idea is simple.The sales of these high-end items will help raise funds that will go to organizations to be used to destroy guns in Africa that are often used as currency. The availability of the guns had numerous negative effects ranging from violence to the abuse of woman and children. Since they are often used in trade, Fonderie 47 learned a while ago that in Africa guns must be removed from circulation and destroyed in order to diminish these negative effects. Once they are, since prices of assault rifles are about 1/4 in Africa what they are in the rest of the world, resupply with significantly higher priced weapons is not possible at a 1:1 rate.

They claim that the sale of one pair of cufflinks is enough to fund the purchase and destruction of 100 assault rifles in Africa. Fonderie 47 was started by John Zapolski and Peter Thum. I actually sat down for a while with John last year to interview him about Fonderie 47, its products, and all the nitty-gritty details about guns in Africa.

What I like about this project is that Fonderie 47 isn’t the type of company to make a philanthropic claim that it may only possibly ever be able to fulfill. The entire flow of going into Africa to find and buy guns, as well as destroy them has been considered and planned. They had to do it at least a bit to get machine gun metal for their launch products. I did put John to the test with many probing question and feel pretty confident that the claims of the brand are not mere marketing dribble.

Fonderie 47’s clients will also demand accountability. Sale of the items at launch is exclusively through special events and parties. To buy these items you need to know the right people and be in the right places. The cufflinks and rings are not cheap either. These are items meant to be luxurious but also further a cause. When pushing a brand to some of the world’s most elite clients, you need to back up all of your claims.

In my opinion Fonderie 47 really has a chance to be a very special brand. The concept and people are cool, and the products are interesting. I would totally wear this Roland Iten item in its cufflinks or bracelet form. The Fonderie 47 Cufflinks will be limited to just 20 pieces and the price for each will be 30,000 Swiss Francs.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

MB&F Legacy Machine 1 Watches Hands-On

admin — Wed, 19 Oct 2011 07:01:30 +0000

I'd first like to note that while the LM1 watch is lovely to look at, it is a pain in the ass to photograph - thanks Max! I finally got some hands-on time with MB&F's new watch and collection: the Legacy Machine Number 1 that I originally discussed here. Nothing like the Horological Machine collection, the Legacy Collection unties the brand's hands from offering futuristic designs exclusively. A passion for Max Busser of MB&F is also classicism, and he has been wanting to offer some fascinating classic designs for a while. As such, moving forward MB&F will be free to look into the past (with the Legacy Machines) as well as future (with the Horological Machines) at the same time.

The liberating experience for MB&F has resulted in what I believe to be their most wearable piece ever. At 44mm wide with a clean and easy to read set of dials, the Legacy Machine No. 1 is actually a solid daily wear. Having said that I also think that the HM4 Thunderbolt is a solid daily wear (but just for another type of person). In essence the LM1 is a simple watch in a round case. Of course the MB&F panache for design and finishing takes the watch to another plane - so in truth, it would be silly to say it is just another round watch with a snazzy dial. Though I say that knowing what else it out there. For this watch especially, you need to be rather familiar with the luxury watch landscape to appreciate both the concept and its refined design.

On the wrist the impressive LM1 wears larger than I anticipated. I was expecting a small MB&F timepiece given the 44mm wide case width - and I was wrong. The boldness I've come to expect from the brand is not lacking at all. I've also almost never seen before such a richly domed sapphire crystal. MB&F has it generously coated with anti-reflective material, but it still picks up light - hence the difficulty in photographing it. Nevertheless, it still has a clear look and reading the dial while viewing the balance wheel are easy and enjoyable.

Looking at these pictures I've taken make me feel as though I did a good job with the photography. Though in reality I want to credit the watches as much as my camera. The design offers a lot of beautiful real estate for polish, generous curves angles, and compelling color contrasts. All the elements on the dial and movements are clear and visible. In fact, the whole concept of the dial is to bring the balance wheel to the front. Not only that, but the design of the movement has been able to separate the anchor and escapement wheel from the balance. There are right there on the dial like there were meant to be there all along. Seeing their constant movement is a pleasure, and something one cannot at all gleam from seeing still images of the Legacy Machines 1 watches.

This ongoing visual movement on the dial really makes these watches impressive. In the video you can see more of that. The arch structure that holds the balance wheel looks pretty cool, and everyone seems to love the linear power reserve indicator. Detailing all over the Legacy Machine Number 1 watch is impressive. The transition between polish to brushed surfaces is crisp and on the movement Kari's team did an excellent job making it sparkle and appear like something sensually polished from two centuries ago.

Even though each of the time dials is partially obstructed, reading the time is very simple on the clean white dial. The blued steel hands shine with quality, but I wish that the minute hands were just a bit longer. Still, the hours hands are of a different shape so legibility is still high. Setting the time is easy and smooth with each of the crowns. Operating the watch is intuitive and something I could do daily.

Coming in 18k rose gold or white gold, the MB&F Legacy Machine No. 1 has a different personality in each of the metals. The rose gold model feels a bit more stately while the white gold one has a cooler, smooth look to it. Plus, the white gold model has a slightly darker face, while the rose gold model has a lighter face and a blued steel escapement. Try each of them on to see which is right for you. Attached to the case is a really great looking alligator strap - that is actually padded. You don't often have straps like this that actually feel padded. There is a distinctly luxurious feel that goes with putting one of these watches on your wrist.

MB&F succeeded in doing something that I think is very hard - making a traditional looking watch actually cool. Not just look nice, but actually be cool and hip. You don't need to be old or wear a suit to pull this off. You just need to have a strong personality and be confident. The Legacy Machine 1 will take care of the rest. For more technical details see my initial post of the MB&F LM1 watches here. Price once again is $92,000.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Harry Winston Midnight GMT Tourbillon Only Watch 2011

admin — Wed, 06 Jul 2011 07:07:01 +0000

You can't buy it. Well technically you can, but you need to fly to Monaco in September and bid really high. This is Harry Winston's entry into the Only Watch 2011 charity auction that I keep profiling when new entries are released. Harry Winston's offering is this Midnight GMT Tourbillon (ref. 450/MATTZ45PL.A). The reason I am giving it extra attention is due to the way I feel it encapsulates much of what the modern Harry Winston watch brand is trying to be - and there will be just one piece.

The movement inside of the watch is not new. It comes from an existing GMT Tourbillon watch in the Ocean, not Midnight collection. It may have been used in other HW pieces before. Though I do like its execution on this watch better. The automatic movement has a large power reserve of 110 hours and features a dial exposed tourbillon, off-centered time display, and a word-time function. The second timezone is first selected with the reference city being show in a small window at about 11 o'clock, and the time itself displayed in another subsidiary dial in a 12 hour format. In addition, there is a day/night (AM/PM) indicator for the second time zone. It is all rather clear, and simple to use.

The Midnight case is not that much different than the Ocean case, but the overall watch feels quite different. This is in large part due to the dial design. Both cases are 45mm wide, and this particular piece unique is done in platinum. The dial is where all the fun comes. Harry Winston's designers play with circles and textures comes together here in a rather refined way that feels particularly well-suited to the personality the brand is going for. Gone is blue lume and sword hands. What we have is a more classic look that combined elegance and avant garde aesthetic in a manner that you want to see from Harry Winston.

On the dial you'll find ruthenium concentric circles and a sunray finish for the dials themselves. As the Only Watch auction takes place in Monaco, you'll find Monaco as one of the reference cities for the world-time function. I am not sure if Monaco is on standard world-time reference city discs... Maybe it is. I don't think I have ever had to check what time it is in Monaco - at least not yet. The watch is attached to a black alligator strap. The attractive multi-level dial and interesting movement make this one of the nicer Harry Winston watches to date. Too bad there will only be one piece!

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 70

admin — Sun, 26 Jun 2011 21:58:12 +0000

We present you with an exclusive interview with Jorn Werdelin, co-founder of the sporty and creative watch brand Linde Werderlin. Topics include how one decides that starting a watch brand is a good idea, how to compete as a small but innovative brand, and where Linde Werdelin gets their ideas.

Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 70 here.

Download the MP3.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 66

admin — Mon, 23 May 2011 23:14:42 +0000

We talk details on watch repair, Ennebi, and a great new piece from Chronoswiss.

Listen to the HourTime show watch podcast episode 66 here.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bovet Sportster Saguaro Watches Hands-On

admin — Thu, 28 Apr 2011 07:01:48 +0000

There are certain watches that hold my interest over time. Often times, these are more rare models that you don't see too often. Yet, I wonder what they would be like having a place in my life. One such model is the Bovet Sportster Saguaro. The "cactus" version of the Bovet Sportster is larger and has some different design elements than its smaller brother. Being a Bovet these watches are pretty much typified by their "ribbon" style crown guard along with the crown and pushers being placed at the top of the case. You are supposed to believe the watches are more closely related to pocket watches this way, however, the can-style cases remind me more of canteens and I wanna take a big sip of watch parts.

There is also the Sportster Saguaro Meteorite version of the watch that has a really nice Gibeon meteorite dial. I first wrote about the Bovet Sportster Saguaro Meteorite watches here. Bovet claims the space stones that make up the dial are something like 4 billion years old - that is pretty cool. These are my favorite Sportster watches because I really like how the meteorite gives a sort of organic feel to the otherwise composed case and design. You can get various meteorite stone stains such as silver, black, and gold. All the Sportster Saguaro watches are 46mm wide in really chunky looking cases. Like I said, these cases feel like hefty canisters, holding precious innards. The cases are thick and highly polished with a wide bezel. Though the design doesn't feel massive because of the single lug style, it is a rather clever way of making a larger watch feel not as large.

The ribbon style crown guard is a unique element which sometimes makes me think the Sportster Saguaro looks like one of those military pendants on a strap, on your wrist. Bovet offers no shortage of Sportster Saguaro case and dial styles. Pictured here are just a few of them. The cases are available in steel, 18k rose gold, as well as a few versions where PVD and gold are mixed to create some cool looks. Personally, I am a fan of black mixed with gold so these are some of my favorite models.

While Bovet does make movements, the Sportster models use Dubois Depraz automatic chronographs. I believe these are Valjoux 7750s with a big date module on them. The decoration on the movement is some of the best I've seen for a 7750 base, and the custom blued automatic rotor is attractive. As a sports watch, the Sportster Saguaro doesn't mess around. It is water resistant to 300 meters, has a sapphire crystal, comfy rubber strap, and as stated before, the case has a really thick and durable feel.

One neat feature I really like is how the curved flange ring on the outer dial is polished and done to match the case. This is also where the pulsometer scale is printed. Next to it is a tachymeter scale. Don't forget that (love it or hate it) you get Bovet's squiggly chronograph seconds hand. Sometimes, when I look at the dial, I like the hour and minute hands. Other times, I think I would like to see Bovet experiment with new hand designs.

On the wrist the Sportster Saguaro watches are pretty nice looking. The cases are heavy, but I like that sort of thing. These are pretty manly watches from an unlikely place. Bovet really walks two paths with its Asian market friendly fare as well as stuff for the rest of the world. Prices for the Bovet Sportster Saguaro watches range quite a bit. From about $15,000 - $30,000 I believe.

See Bovet & Dimier watches on eBay here.

BOVET Dimier Récital 6 Orbis Mundi 18kt Gold Gent’s Watch

US $36,500.00

BOVET CURRENT COLLECTORS WOODEN WATCH STORAGE DECORATIVE CASE BOX NEW

US $499.99

ESTATE LOT 1 OF MENS VINTAGE WATCHES HAMILTON BOVET HAVAL FOR PARTS OR REPAIR

US $40.99

HOPKINS HOPKINS DUBLIN POCKET WATCH by DIMIER BROS 1920s

US $46.47

RARE VINTAGE BOVET MILITARY WATCH WOMENS BLACK DIAL STAINLESS SWISS for REPAIR

US $49.99

VINTAGE BOVET TRIPLE DATE MOONPHASE 17 JEWELS

US $659.00

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Hublot Red Magic & All Black Green Watches Hands-On

admin — Thu, 03 Mar 2011 09:14:19 +0000

Last year Hublot released their first watch with a colored sapphire crystal. The crystal itself was tinted red on the very cool Hublot King Power F1 Monza watch. It was shared with me that more tinted crystals watches would come. Hublot is thus far sticking with red, but more colors will come soon - no doubt. Here for you is the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic collection for 2011 - that sport red tinted sapphire crystals, as well as the Hublot Big Bang All Black Green watches for 2011. I thought it was neat to put the red and green watches together.

Less wild (and expensive) than the F1 Monza watch, the Red Magic models feel like baby versions in the chronograph variants. Hublot will offer 41mm wide and 44mm wide Big Bang Red Magic Chronograph models, as well as a 48mmm wide Big Bang King Red Magic dive watch style case.

Hublot offers the collection in matte ceramic cases which is really neat. So these cases aren't just colored metal. Metal comes in for the screws (which are titanium) and the pusher which have steel and rubber. I thought it was interesting that even the case backs of the watches were ceramic.

Right now also marks the time when Hublot is still really proud about the opening of their Place de Vendome boutique in Paris. It isn't easy getting a store open on the prestigious street, and Hublot will be celebrating the fact for a while. If you look closely on the back of the Big Bang King Red Magic watch, you'll see a special Hublot logo, as well as a "Vendome Collection" label. This might be a model only sold in that store, or is part of Hublot's larger line of "Vendome Collection" watches that it will be pushing in 2011.

Then there is the Hublot Big Bang All Black Green watches that are pretty nifty. While they don't have the tinted sapphire crystals, they are sort of the green versions of the Red Magic watches. Like the Red Magic watches, the All Black Green ones will be in black matter ceramic cases. There will be a few versions as well, including a 44mm wide Big Bang Chronograph All Black Green, as well as a 48mm wide Big Bang King Diver All Black Green. What is different is that each of those models will have a jewelry style version where the bezels have either all baguette tsavorite stones or tsavorite and diamonds. Bling bling!

You already pretty much know these watches aside from the colors and materials. Inside are automatic base ETA movements that have been modified by Hublot and have special tungsten carbide automatic rotors. The straps are "alligator gummy" that combine alligator and rubber. I personally like all of these watches a lot. I think they are really fashionable, and I like the statement they make. It is very hard to pull off a green watch, but Hublot was able to do it here by combining the color with matte black ceramic. Look for these pieces soon.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

SIHH 2011 Recap: Safe Bet For the Watch World

admin — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 08:08:39 +0000

SIHH 2011 is an event I almost did not attend — but I am glad that I did. The story of my journey to this year’s invite-only International Salon of Haute Horology is however, another story. The expansive halls of world’s ‘other’ most important watch show are a temple of luxury and industry chimes — you learn a lot by being there and listening, as well as seeing. Together, almost 20 brands that represent all of the Richemont and a few other accompanying high-end watch makers get together to show off their new products for 2011. For those attending, it is an annual pilgrimage, and for those who cannot enter, it is an enviable place to be invited.

I’d like to first make a personal statement about being at the event — I love it. While at home in California I write about watches from the seclusion of my home. I don’t have an industry to surround myself with like those who live in Europe. Being at SIHH allows me to “live my work.” In addition to being in the element that I write about and seeing watches, I get to be with my friends and close watch industry colleagues. That part in itself is the best for me. I want say right here that it was a pleasure to see everyone I did at the show. Though it does assist my work to be away from the industry for much of the year as I don’t start to get any semblance of ivory tower syndrome.

No one who attends the show will deny that SIHH is a world within a world, and what you see there is enlightening. On a base level you have many sights to satisfy the giddy watch lover. There, you’ll find many of the world’s best watch brands who show off their newest creations. The environment is meant to be a luxurious and comfortable venue, as the reason for the show is to get the world’s best watch retailers to invest in those watches they feel will sell in their shops over the next year. Second to brands selling their goods to retailers and distributors, SIHH is the place for the writers and journalists from all over the world to come and meet with brands to learn about their new products and brand directions for the year.

SIHH 2011 is now over, and I can reflect on what I have seen — not only from a brand to brand perspective, but what the core message of the whole show was. In short, this year’s high-end watches will (for the most part), be nothing too special, but certainly items that will sell. As I said a few times with conviction, “watches for 2011 won’t really excite anyone’s senses… but they will sell.” Take from that what you will. This is little surprise to me, as brands are reacting to the market climate — a climate that is uncertain and worrisome (despite large end of 2010 sales growth) to say the least.

The last few years saw terrible declines in spending and luxury consumption. As the economic crisis brought much of the high-end watch industry to its knees, a glimmer of hope was found in China. That oriental light blossomed into a major ray of hope that now has the bulk of the watch world’s attention.

Asia — mainly China — is experiencing not only a boom of wealth, but a great hunger for timepieces and other luxury goods. The reasons for that are plentiful, and it is expected to last. At least for a while. China’s growth and demand for luxury goods, especially watches, will simply not last that long, and during its lifespan, their tastes will change. China is interesting in the fact that it moves very quickly. What takes Europe 20 years takes China only a few years. Like a bright candle, China will glow richly, and in different colors, but burn out with little notice. However, expectations see China’s demand for high-end watches not failing within the next few years — and brands are taking the fullest advantage of the Asian market while this growth period lasts. I certainly don’t blame them.

Chinese tastes are more classic and simple than those of the more sophisticated Europe, or functionally minded US. Therefore, the world’s best brands are issuing smaller, elegant, and more simple models in 2010 and 2011 than seen in the last 5 or so years. This means we are seeing very few experiments in design, and watches that are smaller. We are also seeing very few (if any) new complications.

There is a new “statement” that you hear over and over again at SIHH — something that if you didn’t understand the state of the industry might be strange or amusing. Brands are offering Asian only collection, and marketing some watches for women in the rest of the world,Â but as men’s pieces in Asia. When showing new pieces which are under 40mm in size, brands frequently describe them as being for “women or Asian men.” Not all Asian men prefer smaller watches, but apparently enough do. I predict that when they get their fill of little watches, their tastes will match those of Europe and the US within a few years.

For me, I feel a bit lacking in the “newness” department. The best watches I have seen are polished, refined, and beautiful. Though few feel “new.” 2011 is about simplicity and an emphasis on what brands feel will sell. There is little in the sense of risk or innovation. Would this watch writer like to see more experimentation and new designs? Absolutely — but in 2011, that just isn’t good for business.

Brand’s get a double treat based on the tastes of China. Watches that are smaller or do not require significant new R&D dollars are less expensive to design and manufacture. In a sense, it has all been done before. Placing a watch with a more or less existing design in a smaller case with a simple thin movement isn’t exactly the type of project that costs millions to produce. The days of the next crazy tourbillion coming out of each SIHH brand are over — or at least on pause for now. For innovation and wild risk taking — you have only to look at the smaller independent brands.

Fans of more classic, simple watches can rejoice. Options for elegant watches are more plentiful now, and in higher quality, than ever before. Even brands like A. Lange & Sohne are joining the “thin watch” crowd. Staples of Chinese love such as Vacheron Constantin offer tastefully conservative pieces that should deliver in the sales department.

New introductions are also modest in 2011. With the exception of a few brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet, each brand is seemingly offering less new pieces in 2011 than in previous years. When asked about this, brands respond with the fact that markets often get confused when too many new models are presented. With fewer new watches, they can focus on promoting and discussing the ones they have more. It is true that with all the high-end brands out there, watch consumers really aren’t at a lack for options. At the same time, I do like seeing brands flex their creative muscles and strive to impress the world with how many new and interesting things they are able to come up with each year. In 2012 I do hope to see more new things.

Starting one or two years ago we saw a venerable ‘epidemic’ of “nostalgitis.” Brands seemed to be flipping through the pages of their history books looking for models they could remake to satisfy today’s market. On the one hand this is a great opportunity for collectors to not only obtain watches styles that are highly sought after, but also to have them made with today’s high quality materials, sizes, and construction standards. On the other hand, I feel as though this practice is going a bit too far. Brands are finding obscure models to resurrect, hoping that the demand for ‘the old’ will stay new. I fear that a few brands may be ruining a good thing by bringing back to many old watches to life. A few things are simply best left to our collective memories.

Some of the best new watches for 2011 were sport watches. Durable and sporty looking timepieces are still the mainstay of timepiece sales in Europe and the US. However, this is not the case in China. You can easily tell which brands are still interested in maintaining strong market places in the US and European market by how many new or newly refined sport watches they will release this year. Two that comes to mind are Audemars Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre. While neither has introduced anything entirely new, very impressive variations or refinements to current collections will garner strong interest from dedicated watch lovers in the US and Europe.

While there is often a tendency to push upmarket more and more, SIHH saw a few brands offer very appealing watches at (relatively speaking) affordable prices. While I am not always a big fan of their current offerings, Baume & Mercier’s new Capeland watches are quite well done coming in under $5,000. Montblanc, while offering a broadly priced range of watches, really impressed me with their new Timewalker TwinFly watch with an in-house movement and a price of about $6,000 — being placed just under their Nicolas Rieussec collection (which also has Le Locle manufacture made Swiss movements).

Cartier’s great looking Calibre model for men benefits from getting a bracelet. Cartier makes special bracelets for each watch collection they offer that comes with a bracelet, and the Calibre (also with an in-house movement) gets a beautiful looking and feeling bracelet to match its good looks. Speaking of bracelets, there don’t seem to be many new ones this year (or last) at all. I personally am a big fan of metal bracelets and would have loved to see more of them. One reason for the rarity in seeing new bracelets is their high costs to develop. A good bracelet can cost as much or more to develop as a new case — and most always requires more parts. Unless there is a strong market demand for watches with bracelets, I am afraid we won’t see too many new ones for the next few years. Brands like Montblanc (that refined their Timewalker bracelet), and Cartier can offer bracelets due to their higher levels of production and development budgets.

You always see a bit of bling, even when brands are shy about the economy. Asian consumers apparently love to show off, and are included in those markets where men enjoy diamonds on their watches. While men’s jewelry watches where nothing in comparison to those offered for women (for the best see Piaget and Cartier), they did make up some of the new pieces and were valuable additions to a few important collections.

Overall SIHH 2011 was for growth and profit versus innovation and design excellence. This is a basic fact of life for an industry shaken by the fragility of the market, and a hesitant approach to China — a market distant from the Swiss in culture and understanding. I don’t really suggest any of this as positive or negative, but it feels sobering. Sometimes I wonder who buys a lot of what brand make, and this year I saw buyers for just about everything. If the SIHH brands are successful in their safe best, then there will be more money in the years to come for a return to risk taking and true novelty.

I’d like to end by listing my favorite new timepieces from each of the attending brands:

A. Lange & Sohne: Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Merite”
Audemars Piguet: Updated Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph watches
Baume & Mercier: Capeland Chronograph
Cartier: Calibre de Cartier in steel with metal bracelet
Dunhill: Classic Black Diamond Classic Automatic
Girard-Perregaux: World time with enamel globe dial and three bridges with tourbillon
Greubel Forsey: Invention Piece 2 Quadruple Tourbillon
IWC: Portofino Dual time
Jaeger-LeCoultre: Master Compressor Chronograph in black ceramic case
JeanRichard: Aquascope with power reserve indicator
Montblanc: Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Anniversary Edition
Panerai: Bronze models
Parmigiani: Tonda 1950 Ultra Slim
Piaget: Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin in white gold
Ralph Lauren: Sporting Chronograph in matte black ceramic
Richard Mille: RM029 Automatic with Big Date
Roger Dubuis: Chronograph La Monegasque Limited Edition
Vacheron Constantin: Patrimony Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Van Cleef & Arpels: Five Weeks in Balloon watch.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Roland Iten R8 Mk.II Luxury Belt Buckle Hands-On Exclusive

admin — Wed, 15 Sep 2010 07:06:47 +0000

Yes, it isn't a watch, but it is what a belt buckle is when made and designed by watch makers, and people in the watch making world. I haven't specifically written about Roland Iten before on aBlogtoRead.com, but he is an inventor and a designer - and he is very talented. Roland Iten is based in Switzerland, and his items are totally made in Switzerland. Few people have his eye for aesthetic, taste, and engineering. He is sort of an ultra suave nerd - my kinda guy. In fact, in his words, the three principles that lead all of his designs are "performance, skill, and sophistication." The implication is that these elements are what make his inventions interesting, are why his clients are attracted to the luxury gadgets he creates. What I like is that his products are all useful. Perhaps useful in the luxury sense sometimes, but more than mere novelties.

What made Roland's brand famous are his belt buckles. Easily the most complex and interesting belt buckles in the world, they are very cool. While you can live a happy life without one of the R8 belt buckles, if you have one, it is hard to return to the alternatives. What you see before you is the brand's second offered belt buckle, the limited edition R8 Mk.II (MkII, Mark II). I am not exactly sure of how many are going to be in the limited edition (maybe 200 or s0), and I believe the price is $25,000. That comes with the belt buckle, and two belts.

Roland Iten will give you one belt with the R8 MkII, and then you go online to choose the other one you want. After that you can buy additional belts from Roland Iten online or otherwise through dealers. The belts easily attach to the buckle system. What is the point of the whole thing? Well aside from looking cool and making all the kids on the block jealous, it protects the belt from wear and tear, and offers a lever style system that opens the belt up a bit by about 2 centimeters. This is good for when your waist naturally expands and contracts a bit, or after a large meal. This is all done in an incredibly sophisticated, yet efficient manner, made to last, and look good in the process.

While the R8 MkII is comprised of luxury materials, that isn't what Roland focuses on when discussing the watches. In fact, he even feels the diamonds have a functional element (not just decorative) to them - suggesting that in low light situations, the placement of the diamonds (that will shine more than other parts of the buckle) will help you find the right areas you are looking for such as where the belt holes go. The device is engineered to last for years and years (like fine watches), as well as put up with debris and abuse. Roland's belt buckles require no oil for lubrication, and can easily be washed in water. The action of them is great. Everything feels smooth, and the sounds are what you would expect from a high-end luxury item. The buckle also feels very solid. Every part of these buckles is made specially for Roland Iten, and they aren't cheap to make. There are few items in the world that aren't luxury watches that feel quite like this.

Aside from the R8 Mk.I, there are other Roland Iten belt buckles out there - and each comes in a limited edition. You'll need to go his site and learn about the other lines. There are a lot of important people who wear Roland Iten's items. One guy who likes most all of Roland's stuff is Sylvester Stallone. He pretty much always wears the belts. He is actually the first person to be wearing the R8 MkII if I am correct. The main innovation behind the R8 MkII over the MkI is how it treats belts. The MkII has a special pin system that dramatically reduces wear on the belt holes. This allows the precious leather belts to remain in good condition for much longer. This is based on a system with a pin that moves around in the hole much less, and is attached to an arm that moves with the belt.

Like I said, most of the R8 is in white gold and titanium, and I believe a rose gold version will be available as well. There is a little bit of steel in the mechanism, along with some additional precious stones and materials. The video here really shows everything. That is Roland Iten himself showing the R8 MkII. This is the philosophy of fine watch making as applied to other items of daily importance. In fact, Roland's mission as an inventor (like most inventors) is to solve problems. He looks at everyday things a gentlemen does, and finds elegant wants of making them better, safe, more efficient, or just more comfortable. Other interesting inventions of his that are available are special cuff links, shoe lace protectors, a credit card holder, and more to come in the future.

What would really excite me is if Roland Iten ever got into the business of making watches. He has the skill and the vision, not to mention some amazing designs that feature the inventiveness of his other items. I got to check out some graphical representations of these Roland Iten concept watches, and they really impressed me. Soon Roland will also feature an impressive product that is part of a collaborative project with an important luxury car maker as well.

People like Roland Iten are a major reason why I do this. Being able to work with amazingly talented designers, engineers, and inventors is what makes all this interesting. Sure a nicely designed watch or gadget is fun and easy to appreciate, but when that items reaches the level of an "invention" is really gets me stimulated on a higher level.

In the US Roland Iten products are available at Westime.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Cvstos Challenge-R 50 Chronograph Watch Available On James List

admin — Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:52:03 +0000

If Richard Mille and Hublot had a developmentally disabled child, it would be Cvstos. I kid! The Swiss brand never fails to amuse me. Especially the "V" style "U" in their name. I must admit though that the V looks better in writing. "Custos" just looks odd. Some of their designs I like, some I don't. This Challenge-R 50 Chronograph watch has some things to admire, and areas to make fun of. What is interesting is that most of these watches are available for half price online.

The Cvstos Challenge-R (get it, "challenger") 50 Chronograph watch is nice overall. Perhaps not their most inspired design, but has enough technical looking sportiness to not horrendously insult anyone who wears it. The 45mm wide titanium case has a nice mix of brushed and polished surfaces, and enough design elements that work in other watches are adopted here so that ti doesn't look too bad. Really the main problem with the watch is the price and the hands. Those tiny, tiny little hands. Why do they look so lilliputian?Â Why would they do this to the poor dial? Though if you look at the bottom image of the watch on a bracelet, looks like the brand started to get the message about the hands as they look a bit larger. Or am I just seeing things?

I am guessing that the movement is a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750. Here they have it with a power reserve indicator. They call it their caliber 577. Attached to it they have a special palladium alloy and titanium automatic rotor. It would be wrong to call the dial skeletonized - because it isn't really. Or is it? There is a back plate in either black or silver, and skeletonized elements over it. The result is OK, nothing sublime, but less than boring. To be people like me used to seeing much more sophisticated stuff, it isn't that specials, but to people newer in the watch world, Cvstos watches probably look really cool.

For me, they have much stronger offerings than the Challenge-R 50 Chrono watch. But this is a more basic model for them, and I like the round case. There are good elements here, but not enough for the over $20,000 retail price. Better that it goes for closer to $10,000 online?Â A bargain at what price? Check out this Cvstos Challenge-R 50 Chrono watch available on James List here.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.