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Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands-On

admin — Thu, 17 May 2012 07:26:51 +0000

Buglari (Bvlgari) was really proud of the fact that no Maserati branding was on the dial of their special edition Octo watch for Maserati. Turn the piece over and you'll see the famous Trident logo, but the word "Maserati" does not appear anywhere on the watch itself. That is interesting and perhaps wise.

Logically, an intersection between a famous auto and watch maker coming together to make timepieces makes sense. Though in reality few have succeeded in such an endeavor. Ferrari had its famous claim to shame with Panerai, and other brands have had less than stellar results with similar cooperations. A positive example comes from the Breitling/Bentley connection - though I don't care much for the watch designs of that ilk. That is OK, they sell well enough without my artistic seal of approval. Ferrari just got with Hublot - which hopefully will make magic out of the relationship. Suffice it to say that when car and watch makers play, it is risky business. Did Bulgari and Maserati get it right?

Only sales success will really prove anything, but I think they got the design and branding right. Verbally indicating that "Bulgari made this watch for Maserati" sounds good. Though the watch itself should speak those words in a much, much lower volume. I once had a seasoned watch industry executive tell me that the key to killing a co-branded watch was to place both brand names on the dial. While that is not a universal rule, it seemed to make sense. Bulgari must have had that same conversation.

In fact, there are two names potentially missing from the dial of this watch - Maserati and Gerald Genta. The base watch is the Octo from the Gerald Genta collection. Until this point Bulgari was dual branding these watches, but in this case Bulgari gets the exclusive title glory. If you want to see the Gerald Genta name you'll need to check the rotor on the automatic movement. This particular Octo for Maserati watch is a prototype - which unfortunately has a too opaque blued sapphire crystal over the movement. The final versions will have crystals that are more transparent. Still blue with the Maserati trident, but still clear enough to offer a view to the caliber GG7800 automatic chronograph movement.

That movement is really nifty. It includes the famous Gerald Genta retrograde minutes and jumping hour system of telling the time (which the Gefica Hunter GMT watch I reviewed here also uses). The lower dial is a retrograde date indicator. Then you have a cool retrograde 12 hour chronograph using the two fan shaped dials on the sides of the watch. What a marvelous dial all around. Quad retrograde hands, jumping hour, and a gorgeous symmetry. This would have made the late Mr. Genta proud. Note how the chronograph hand points down versus up in the resting position. Bulgari did a sweet job designing the dial with silver and blue tones to match the Maserati theme. Wonderfully classy and eccentric at the same time.

Years later the Octo case is still a healthy mixture of cool avant garde and architectural inspiration. Here in steel, the case is 45mm wide and more comfortable on the wrist than it may appear. The strap is tightly integrated with the case and is modeled after the leather seats of many Maserati cars. That includes the padded sections and perforation for air ventilation.

Bulgari wasn't really clear on how many pieces they would be making. The Octo for Maserati piece is billed as a "special edition". Effectively, I am not sure what that means. It is special though - right? What I think is that Bulgari is going to be make a limited run and see how they sell through Bulgari dealers, and maybe some Maserati dealers. Maserati makes a few models that are higher-end, but this watch will likely cost a healthy chunk of a car's price. Overall really nice and likely as good as you can get when it comes to subtly having a watch brand produce a piece for an auto maker. When it comes down to it, Bulgari feels that both they and Maserati are Italian - so it could make perfect sense to the consumer.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Bulgari GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase Watch Review

admin — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 07:45:21 +0000

It is hard to begin a review of a watch like this. There is just so much to say, and I don't know where to begin. So many elements of the watch and its history merit discussion - and I can't cover it all. I'll do my best, and am very excited to present to you a hands-on review of a very special watch.

This is the Bulgari (Bvlgari) GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch. It is a limited edition model based on the original Gefica as designed by Gerald Genta under his eponymous brand. The Gefica family began in 1988-1989 I believe, with the release of this piece's ancestor. This more modern Gefica watch case design is at least 10 years old, with a look that has more than endured today. It is extremely unique, but wonderfully well done. A polarizing design no doubt but I find the Gefica to be ultimately appealing as the kind of watch I have lusted after for years.

It all started with Gerald Genta whom I believe claimed that the design of the watch was inspired by a safari trip to Africa. Having recently passed away, Gerald Genta is considered to be one of the last generation's most important watch designers. He is most well known for his creation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus watches. When he began his own brand, his design taste really started to mature.

The Gefica case has a tribal relic appearance unlike anything most people had seen before it was first debuted. While this Bulgari version has a modified dial, the original model (upon which this is based) had an art deco look. Who would have thought to combine tribal and art deco aesthetics? The result was masterful, and the functionality and legibility of the dial, given its novel design, are legendary. I first discussed the Gerald Genta Gefica watches here.

Although I am not sure if it was the first watch to offer a bronze case, it is the seminal one in my memory. Currently bronze watches are in fashion, but at the time, the Gefica's choice of material was almost rebellious. The case is mixed with bronze and titanium elements. While under the Gerald Genta brand, it was released in a few color styles and was renowned not only for the case design, but also the dial. As I mentioned, the original art deco aesthetic of the dial combined a jumping hour display with a retrograde minutes hand, and the date. The limited edition model I reviewed removed the lower retrograde date display and replaced it with a GMT hand and moon phase indicator. The beauty and ergonomic simplicity of the hour and minute indicator is unmatched elsewhere.

So how did this Gerald Genta watch get a Bulgari name on it? Bulgari owned Gerald Genta for many years and in 2008 when the economy crashed they made an interesting decision. In order to control costs, the Bulgari brand would engulf Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta. This would save the watch models and reduce operating expenses. The best Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta watches would remain with slightly revised designs done in order to incorporate some Bulgari DNA - I first wrote about that here. As of now, the additional of Bulgari DNA mostly means altered dials and model names. On this Gefica model there is still a lot of Gerald Genta branding if you look closely.

On the dial you have shared Bulgari and Gerald Genta branding. According to Bulgari, watches like this are under the "Gerald Genta aesthetic collection." My suspicion is that in a few years, the Gerald Genta branding will be phased out on the Gefica and other models. Not that I don't want Bulgari to honor the origins of these watches, but to new consumers the multiple branding is no doubt going to be confusing at best. For instance, Bulgari's name is engraved in the titanium buckle, but "Gerald Genta" is still lightly engraved on the automatic rotor on the movement. For the time being you can still enjoy branding elements of both worlds.

The major change to the Gefica collection under the new Bulgari branding are the dials. The new dials are shaped the same, but have some color and design differences. The new ones are slightly more subtle, with darker dues and more of an Italian feel to them. The art deco aesthetic ghost is still there, but not quite like the original. Having polled several people, I have found that some prefer the original Gerald Genta look, and some prefer the cleaner Bulgari look. For me they are both nice in their own way - and this model specifically is unique to Bulgari with no older GG analog.

The design of the Gefica case is pretty amazing. Like I said, not everyone will like it, but there is a lot to appreciate. First, why bronze? Bronze is actually a pretty piss poor case material for most watches. This is because bronze ages very quickly and oxidizes. This means everything from extreme discoloration to the growth of green chips on the surface of the case. As you'll notice, the caseback of the watch is titanium. This is because bronze is not meant to come into contact with your skin for long periods of time. However, for this tribal antique look, bronze makes sense. Genta wanted the case to age over time. His idea was that the wearer would actually use a special kit to "clean" off the watch as it aged. The result would look like something that is old but taken care of. The titanium elements are modern and of course would not corrode at all.

Little titanium balls are all over the case and are inspired by African tribal items. These add a special dimension to the design and have since been copied in other watches. Double rings of beaded titanium are sandwiched on the sides of the case and also on the crown. For its time (and now), the Gefica was a large watch. It is over 19mm thick and about 47mm wide. On the wrist it sits tall, but is very comfortable thanks to the flat bottom and curved lugs. Very much an ergonomic design and the case is water resistant to 100 meters.

The strap is alligator and integrated right to the edge of the case. You basically aren't allowed to be a high-end watch these days if you have too much of a gap between the strap and the case. The strap is structured on the inside to remain shaped near the lugs and flow down to a solid titanium deployant buckle. The buckle is beautiful and extremely well designed to be comfortable and snap tightly.

This particular GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is just that. The movement has the time (jumping hours and retrograde minutes) with a central red seconds hand. The lower dial has a moon phase indicator (one of those open ones that show the moon phase in both hemispheres), and a subsidiary 24 hour GMT hand. The GMT hand is adjusted using the large pusher on the left side of the case. There is an inset pusher to adjust the moon phase indicator.

You can't help but love the clever retrograde minute hand. Getting wider at the top, it is open in order to not block the hour window too much. The size also makes it legible. Reading the time this way is pleasing actually. The mechanism is sensitive, and needs proper care. According to Bulgari you can't adjust it too fast, and I think they recommend only adjusting it in one direction. In order to make setting the watch easier and safer (and to help reset the system if it gets stuck), there is an additional inset pusher that adjusts the hour disc. Over the case is a highly domed sapphire crystal. It does have a lot of AR coating but given the curve, it still reflects light. Nevertheless, the curved crystal is beautiful and offers a lot of legibility to the dial given its clarity.

On the back of the watch is a deeply set sapphire caseback window. The movement finishing is unlike anything else I have seen before. Gerald Genta called it a "potter" finishing. I call it "micro perlage" and it covers the entire surface of the movement and the automatic rotor. Most movements have different finishes to highlight the different parts of the mechanism. Here, the viewable areas are pretty much all covered in the same polish. It is a unique look and offers something quite different.

Inside the watch is the Gerald Genta caliber GG 1006 automatic movement. Like most all Gerald Genta watches, the movement is built on a base Girard-Perregaux automatic movement with a Gerald Genta module on top of it. The power reserve is 45 hours, and it is really a fun and useful movement to have in a watch.

Like all legends, it is hard not to want one of these. Owning one will either have you entering a Bulgari boutique or finding one of the other older Gefica watches out there. I for one have had a soft place in my heart for the Gefica collection for years. The deep, functional, beautiful dial is lovely to look at - and the case is a work of art and intrigue unto itself. This is a real emotional watch, and a well-done one at that. The Bulgari GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is part of a limited edition of just 199 pieces. Each is priced at 18,900 Swiss Francs.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bulgari Daniel Roth Grande Sonnerie Quantieme Perpetual Watch

admin — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 08:10:36 +0000

This new Bulgari Daniel Roth collection watch joins the ranks (small ranks) of million dollar plus timepieces from the brand. Offering a wildly complicated movement and inspiration from the Daniel Roth brand that Bulgari engulfed into itself, this piece is one serious homage to a love of horology.

Based on the commentary I have received thus far, people seem to dig the video Bulgari made about its new Daniel Roth Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar watch. I must admit that it does work well when you make a watch look like a deity coming from space to save the planet - with chimes. Chime your well to a better like. According to Bulgari, if in operation all the time, the sonnerie function will chime over 433,500 times per a year. That is a lot of dings and dongs.

Bulgari says it takes about one year to build each of these watches. I believe that. There are a very small amount of people who are skilled enough to make them, and it takes along time to decorate the parts, assemble, and then test the movements. Actually, decorating the movement parts is the most challenging. That takes about six months. It then takes four months to build the movement, test it, take it apart, clean it, and then put it back together again.

Inside the watch is the Caliber DR 5307. It is made up of 923 parts and has 82 jewels (for those who wanted to know). One of my favorite things about this super complicated watch movement is that it is an automatic. Most all of the time watches like this are manually wound. Not only does it being an automatic make it more convenient, but it also makes it easier to store allowing you to put it on a traditional spinning winder so that you don't need to reset it all the time.

What does that caliber DR 5307 automatic movement do? Well the function families are the time, perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator, grade and petite (little) sonnerie chimes, and the tourbillon. A full list of features is as follows:

-Westminster Carillon chimes
-Four gongs
-Grande Sonnerie
-Petite Sonnerie
-Minute Repeater
-Silence mode
-Tourbillon
-Perpetual Calendar
-Leap Year Indicator
-Month indicator
-Weekday indicator
-Date indicator
-Moon phases
-Automatic winding for movement and striking system
-Silent centrifugal governor
-Power reserve indicator for movement (48h)
-Power reserve indicator for striking system (28h in mode « Little »)
-Secured striking mode (during striking, the time setting system is disconnected)
-Secured time setting (during time setting, the striking system is disconnected)
-Secured striking system (the minute repeater is disconnected during striking in « passing » and vice-versa)
-Striking mode selector “chimes/silence » (rotating water resistant selector with indication)
-Striking mode selector « little/grand » (rotating water resistant selector with indication)

That is a lot of features and a very important thing to point out is that the Bulgari Daniel Roth Grande Sonnerie Quantieme Perpetual Calendar watch has both sonnerie and minute repeater functions. The first chimes the times at various intervals automatically, and the latter chimes the time back to you on command.

Even with its relatively complex design, all the information is displayed conveniently. I love that despite this there is some skeletonization on the dial as the date of the week and month discs are transparent sapphire over sections of the movement. Why are there two power reserve indicators? One is for the time functions and one is for the power reserve functions.

The watch itself is placed in an 18k pink gold case that is matched to a black alligator strap. Not sure about the case width or thickness though - but this isn't going to be a small timepiece. It really is an incredible machine and I can't wait to get some hands-on time with one.

According to Buglari each piece will be unique in some way (if only how the hammer and gongs are regulated and adjusted). Not sure necessarily what that means, but as they are each hand made it is possible to offer slight variations from piece to piece. If you haven't viewed the above video yet I suggest that you do. Ready to put down your dollar bills? The Bulgari Daniel Roth Grande Sonnerie Quantieme Perpetual [Calendar] watch will be priced at 980,000 Swiss Francs.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bulgari Magsonic Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon Watch Hands-On

admin — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 08:20:03 +0000

This piece of rare game goes for an awful lot of coin. It has an interesting history, as well, starting out as the Gerald Genta Arena Metasonic Sonnerie watch. When Bulgari engulfed the Gerald Genta brand (head nod to Genta who just passed away), they kept this piece and made a few style changes to the dial and case (very minor), the movement remained the same with the price still hovering around $1,000,000. Bulgari also changed the name of the watch from Metasonic to Magsonic and dropped the Arena part of the name.

Does Magsonic mean anything more than Metasonic? Magsonic is a new alloy that Gerald Genta created for optimal sound passage. Most of the case is actually titanium, though it is also offered in 18k rose gold. The Magsonic part of the watch is the black-looking part sandwiched between the bezel and caseback. The titanium (versus gold case) is probably a better idea if you are interested in the main feature set of this timepiece - the complex sonnerie complications - because gold will absorb more sound. It also has a tourbillon (seen from the dial), power reserve indicators (there are two as one is for the time and another is for chiming functions), and well, yes, the time.

No wrist watch I have ever seen had more complex buttons and such all around the case. There is the wild-looking crown, a four-way rocker switch, switches that flip around, and maybe a bit more. It is all pretty nuts, but it is all there for a reason. The original designers of the movement had no intention of making it more complex than it needed to be - and tried to give the user as simple a time as is possible. Hungry to learn more about how it works? Bulgari even created a dedicated iPhone app just for the watch that you can check out here.

I would not call the movement so much beautiful as I would call it impressive. What it lacks in elegance, it makes up for in "wow." With so much going on, and the almost avant grade design of it, elegance is pretty much thrown to the curb. That's OK, though, as the concept is as artful as it is a feat of micro engineering.

As a sonnerie, the watch will sound out the time to you at certain intervals. It sounds them out like a minute repeater using a code of chimes created by several gongs and three hammers. This watch is the most complex sonnerie timepiece ever. You can see the hammers in action in the dial. The movement itself has something like 850 parts and is called the Caliber 31001.

As I discussed in my earlier article on the Gerald Genta version, the watch was created to have optimal sound - it was pretty impressive, I have to say - but for that you want to stick with the titanium model. The case is large, but not insanely so, at 46mm wide (wider with the crown and such).

Listening to the sonnerie is as fun as it is to watch it work. The chimes are complex as the hammers work in unison. Though they seem quite fast for anyone trying to decipher them to calculate the time. Perhaps you might see one of these in your lifetime, but I imagine if you aren't in the industry that might be hard. Seeing this watch was a rare treat and I think it is pretty cool. Price is around $950,000.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

BVLGARI Diagono X-Pro Watch

admin — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 07:07:28 +0000

Bvlgari, err... Bulgari always looks better in all caps right? While I have been seeing lots of confused designs from Bulgari as of late, this Diagono X-Pro is something I am not at all confused about liking (which is to say that I do like it). The cool masculine watch takes a few lessons from the polished looks of the Bulgari design play book, and adds a testosterone powered stamp of approval on it. When it comes down to it, while this is a great watch in and of itself, it feels like Bulgari's answer to the Hublot Big Bang. Not only in design, but also when it comes to the "fusion" of materials. Bulgari knows that with its performance over the last few years and the current economy, it can't dick around. It needs to give people what they want - which is apparently still luxury sport watches.

One thing that is hard to tell is that the middle section of the case is actually all black - all DLC black for that matter. Now even Bulgari is on the DLC bandwagon. Another wave goodbye to PVD. Just part of this complex case. Below you will see an "explosion" image of the case - which is made out of 104 parts. I love it that some watch cases are 2 or 3 parts, and some are over 100 parts. The most complex case winner is still the Nubeo Black Mamba. The Diagono X-Pro is 45mm wide, with a case made out of steel, DLC coated steel, and titanium. There is also rubber coatings on the crown and chronograph pushers (in addition to the rubber strap). The front and back of the watch have sapphire crystals (front crystal is highly AR coated).

Now things get interesting with sapphire... the dial is sapphire as well. Black colored sapphire with three levels of superimposed elements on it. It should have glass-like finish to it, without too much glare, and the white numerals and hour indicators should "pop" really nicely. Hints of red color add to the sporty appeal. In addition to elements from other Bulgari designs, and Hublot, there is a little bit of Richard Mille influence in the mix.I have a feeling the dial will turn out to be quite great looking.

Aside from the fancy case and design, the movement is quite interesting. A hybrid of in-house elements and use of 'ol reliable - the Valjoux 7750. What Bulgari does is build on the Valjoux 7750 to create the Calibre BVL 312. Lots of stock ETA parts from the 7750 are replaced, and a special module is built on the movement giving it a GMT hand. The modifications also serve to include a column wheel transfer in the movement for the chronograph. Plus, the movement is COSC Chronometer certified. Set in a tri-compax array, the chronograph is easy to see with a red hand for the subsidiary seconds dial for the main time. The GMT hand is attracting and easy to read. I like the large lume covered hour and minute hands, but feel that they are just shy of being long enough. Design wise, the watch and dial look like a mix of diver, pilot, and military style - all with that Bulgari twist.

You can see that the rotating GMT bezel offers the ability to track a third timezone, and is also two-toned, giving the night hours a dark color, and the daylight hours a lighters color. I also like the movable lug structures that attach to the rubber strap. Overall the Bulgari Diagono X-Pro is a great watch with a neat character, and appeal for me that I haven't seen lately from Bulgari. Price isn't going to be very kind I am sure. I am going to guess between $10,000 - $20,000.

CALIBRE BVL 312 (Based on Valjoux 7750) tech specs from Bulgari:

Description BVL 312, mechanical self-winding chronograph caliber

Diameter 13 Â¼ lignes

Display Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock; central chronograph seconds hand;

central GMT hand; minutes counter at 3 o’clock and hours counter at 6 o’clock;

notched GMT bezel; date window at 4.30.

Dimensions Casing diameter: 30.00mm — Total thickness: 8.33mm

Jewelling 27 jewels

Power Reserve 48 hours

Frequency 4 Hz — 28,800 vibrations/hour

Winding Via a unidirectional oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings

Balance Glucydur — 3 spokes

Adjustment Omegametric for chronometer-worthy precision

Bridges Barrel & gear train: all of a piece (3/4 bridge)

Mainplate & bridges Brass

Oscillating weight Monometallic, in tungsten

Mainplate Circular-grained

Â¾ bridge Circular-grained

Automatic bridge Circular Cotes de Geneve

Chronograph bridge Circular-grained

Bridge Hand-polished beveling

Bridge chamfers Sunburst decoration

Oscillating weight Dedicated Sotirio Bulgari cut-out; snailed decoration

Column wheel Black PVD coating

Jewel surround Diamond-polished, tone-on-tone

Finishing of the visible Hand-drawn file strokes, beveled and polished rims

steel chronograph parts

Engravings Matte black-lacquered engraving backgrounds

Rating precision C.O.S.C with rating certificate

See Bulgari watches on eBay here.

See Bulgari watches on Amazon here.

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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bulgari Octo Bi-Retro Steel Ceramic Watch

admin — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 07:39:03 +0000

I discussed a little while ago about how Bulgari (Bvlgari) incorporated Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth (brands it already owned) into the Bulgari brand. You can read all about that and see a video interview with Bulgari talking about it here. The first product of this digestive affair is this watch. Basically a re-branded Gerald Genta Octo Bi-Retro, that has a bit more Bulgari-ness to it. The overall shape and dimensions of the watch are the same, but styling has been "face-lifted" and injected with some of the Bulgari DNA. It feels like the outcome of aÂ mad scientist combing the DNA of multiple animals, err, I mean watch brands. Why must these men play god!? This horological Chimera is without true soul. Soon we will have an army of "Bvulgenta" and "Daniel Gari" watches all over the place.

Clearly the Gerald Genta style fitsÂ better with Bulgari, than does Daniel Roth. I am curious to see what the later mixture with Bulgari will result in. Maybe I will find out shortly when I am at Basel. Back to the new Octo Bi-Retro Steel Ceramic watch. I have two images here of previous Gerald Genta watches. One is a previous Octo Bi-Retro, and other is a Gefica model that shares the same movement. The Gefica line was killer, and I hope that Bulgari retains it for the most part.

If you look closely that the new Bulgari watch in comparison to the older model you can tell that the design differences are minor. Most notable is the ceramic bezel with its "bolts," dial changes, and the new strap. The new strap is my favorite part actually. It is a textured rubber done in a segmented style, with a steel folding clasp. The dial design has taken a less art deco theme, and is more Bulgari in tone, but still feels very much the same. Even the hands are the same. I expect future models to stray a bit more from the Gerald Genta classic.

It is a good thing that Bulgari kept the Gerald Genta name of the dial (and even indicated the in-house made automatic GG7722, aka 7722, movement). I don't think this dual branding on the dial approach is going to last forever, but at least in the short term both names will be there. Why? Because consumers are going to get very confused, and because the Gerald Genta name still is worth something to people - often more than the Bulgari name. In fact, I suspect the name is there to help add value to the watch - more so than it would have in consumers' mind than just the Bulgari label.

The watch is in steel and 43mm wide and water resistant to 100 meters. Like I said, the movement is an automatic, and visible through the sapphire caseback window. The studded crown retains the nifty onyx stone cabochon in it. The Bi-Retro name comes from GG7722 movement having two retrograde counters. The watch has a jumping hour complication using in conjunction with a retrograde minute hand. Thus, the window located closer to 12 o'clock is for the hour, while it is surrounded by the retrograde minute scale. The lower retrograde scale is for the date. Overall I think the design is satisfying. It won't get current Gerald Genta Octo owners to trade their models in, but it won't disappoint future buyers either.

In the future there are going to be many more models like this. Expect a chronograph version of the Bulgari Octo Bi-Retro, as well as versions in different materials. Price for this steel and ceramic model is going to be very close to the price of the previous Gerald Genta model at between about $15,000 - $20,000. I can't wait to see what crazy DNA mixing experiments Bulgari comes up with next.

See Bulgari, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth watches on eBay here.

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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bulgari’s Bold Move To Integrate With Daniel Roth & Gerald Genta

admin — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 14:56:36 +0000

The pursuit continued of life in the house of troubled luxury brand has a method. Bulgari has recently announced news that should be considered uncommon at the least. In a strange move that I would have never predicted, the Bulgari brand actually eats two other brands that it already owns. The result will be a unified brand in image and manufacture, such that each watch coming from the super brand will have the name "Bvlgari" (Bulgari" as I care to say it) on each watch that is released. A hint in the form of an image depicts a potential result of this "new way" where Bvlgari is seen as the originator, presenting a Gerald Genta timepiece.

Why has the event come to pass? It is more than merely a complex branding and marketing exercise. The fact is that each watch brand in the past was more or less independent. With its individual manufacturing, design, marketing, and sales arms. This redundant system works if each brand is truly independent, but being under common ownership, a more efficient and less expensive manner of doing business can be achieved through such consolidation. As such, in the video presented here, Mr. Francesco Trapani (CEO of the Bulgari Group) explains what consolidation means for the brands. While many questions remain about the future of the design and marketing side of the picture, it is clear that the watches will be made under the same roofs, by the same teams of watch makers, and offered via the same means of distribution. This is one of the more clever results of the consolidation - that the three former independent brands can be sold under one roof as a single brand.

There is discussion of maintaining and promoting a singular brand DNA. It is hard to believe that this is the sole motive behind the move. It is clear that Bulgari has been hurting lately from depressed sales. There is a further lack of impressive prestige for their timepieces as of late. Engulfing both Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, who do have much more positive associations with consumers, can be seen as an effort to "borrow" from their status and implant it into face of Bulgari.

Be it known now, that the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth brand names may totally disappear the foreseeable future. I believe that in order to avoid consumer confusion, Bulgari will eventually phase away the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth names. This however is just my prediction, and I don't think that it will happen right away. The irony of course is that since selling to the Bulgari Group, the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth brands are no longer even associated with the men behind the names, Mr. Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth. For now however, the logos will of the respective brands/images will remain on the watch. I further believe that in time the individual brand images of the various watch lines will begin to blend given their close proximity to each other. This seem inevitable, even though Bulgari has announced that it will respect each respective brands' DNA.

Remaining is the question of whether this experiment will work for Bulgari, and either save or create a bigger and better Bulgari group and image for the brand's timepieces. The alternative is worse of course. I cannot offer much of an opinion as, to my knowledge, this tactic has not been tested in the luxury watch world in just such a way. Usually you have two companies combining efforts or a popular brand buying a less well known brand (ex. Heuer to Tag Heuer or Montblanc buying Minerva) . My wishes are of course that they succeed. More people buying more watches is a positive thing for everyone in the watch industry. I do wish them prosperity as I will continue to monitor the Buglari's dining on a main course of Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth closely, as wellÂ as the transformation the group.

See Bulgari, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth watches on eBay here.

Genuine Bvlgari Bulgari Hand Sewn Leather watch strap band 175mm 11 16 175X14
$129.00
Time Remaining: 6h 26m
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Daniel Roth Yellow Leather Watch No75
$3,500.00
Time Remaining: 7h 45m
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Bvlgari Diagono CH 35 S Chronograph Stainless Steel Automatic No Reserve
$4,750.00
Time Remaining: 8h 20m
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BVLGARI IPNO Diamond Ceramic Ladies Watch IP20DSL S RRP 2550 BRAND NEW
$2,827.84
Time Remaining: 8h 24m
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Bulgari Watch Catalog 2008 09 Never Opened Mint
$14.99
Time Remaining: 9h 14m

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BVLGARI IPNO Digital Ceramic Ladies Watch IP20SL L RRP 1650 BRAND NEW
$1,879.96
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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bulgari-Bulgari Moonphase Watch for Women 2009 Release

Molly McDermott — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 20:07:43 +0000

I love this watch. I've always loved Bulgari anything, but this watch is just so sensuous and harmonious...I want it now.

Inspired by Italian Style and Design with Swiss watchmaking expertise, the Bulgari-Bulgari Moonphase model features the automatic Bulgari caliber B77 movement with moonphase complication. With launches such as this, Bulgari is definitely making some bold moves. Then again, what else should we expect from this brand?

With the introduction of the Bulgari-Bulgari Moonphase to be released at this year's Basel show, Bulgari is definitely widening its appeal. By adding more complications for women, other than just bedazzling timepieces with diamonds, I have even more respect for them as a watchmaker for women.

It's almost funny how male dominated brands will take their simplest model, throw some diamonds on it, and call it a women's watch. Really...

That said, I'm usually not a fan of such large logos - on anything - but the swirling Bulgari double logo engraved upon the bezel is just so appropriate. The iconic nature of their name, their logo, their inherent style, creates a pattern around the sexy dial that does not distract but enhances the imagery of this model.

So far, this is one of my favorite Moonphase models for women. I'll leave all "lunar" lady allusions out of here, not the forum, but that thought always lurks in the back of my mind when I see women's moonphase timepieces.

The stainless steel case of the Bulgari-Bulgari Moonphase measures 38mm, which is pretty impressive for a women's watch like this. It's elegant, yet makes such a passionate statement. The woman who wears this is strong, independent and worldly. Must be, to pull off a 38mm watch with such a presence. Had this been paired down to a smaller, simpler 30mm case, it would not have drawn such a response.

At least not from me.

Upon this elegant dial,the moonphase indicator at the 9 o'clock position is in perfect harmony with the rest of the indicators on this model. The soft cut lines upon the Mother of Pearl Dial are sensuous and somewhat intoxicating.

Mother of Pearl is always a smart choice for women's watches. But especially works for Moonphase models. The milky nature of this delicate dial creates the perfect canvas for the Moonphase indicator with rotating disks. Very mysterious, very sexy, it works.

With the subtle hour indicators appliqued upon the dial, the focus is definitely on the moonphase indicator. And, of course, the diamonds.

The sweeping, elegant, graduated arc of diamonds enhances the appeal of this watch. It's not too much, not too gaudy... Bulgari proves they can do diamonds.

The offset second hand at the 6 o'clock position further enhances the rhythmic motion of this watch, by displacing the seconds from the central hour and minute indicators in a subtle twist. Yet another sexy level. A very mythical, unexpected design element that totally works.

While Bulgari has arguably been at the forefront of high fashion watches as jewelry, with this line extension, the model above proves that they have so much more to offer. Instead of plastering the dial with ideal cuts, Bulgari is seducing women of watches with the added complication of the moonphase.

It's unfortunate that watch sales were slightly down last year for Bulgari. But with releases such as this one, especially in comparison to previous years and collections, I can see that Bulgari is definitely branching out and finding their true voice now.

I can't wait to see what they release next.

Robert Downey Jr.’s Range Of Watches In New Iron Man Movie; Bvlgari & Hublot

admin — Sat, 03 May 2008 23:41:10 +0000

I love spotting watches in movies, and there were a few of interest in Iron Man, which I saw last night. To tell you right away, the watch that Tony Stark (Robert Downey Jr.'s character in Iron Man) wore that received the most screen time is very new, and I could not get an image of it to you show, though I will describe it. I was able to get pictures of all the watches, check them out below. The movie by the way was very well done. Perhaps not as much action as I would have liked, but Jon Favreau did a great job bringing a very different type of superhero to the big screen in a way that did not destroy the franchise. Notable elements are the attempt to make the process of building the Iron Man suit more realistic by displaying the development along with testing of the suit, and the ability of Tony Stark to publicly announce his role as Iron Man, in comparison to most heroes who keep such things secret. Another item of interest; Robert Downey Jr. wears his watches on his right wrist, while most wear it on the left wrist. This might mean that he is left handed, or has a particular preference for that wrist. You author (being left-handed), still wears his watches on his left wrist. The world does hate us lefties.

Oh, and for your car buffs, didn't you like seeing the various Audi autos in the movie? Obviously another sponsorship, I am just happy that it didn't come from GM. I would have died a little inside to see Tony Stark driving a Pontiac Solstice, or heaven forbid a Saturn Sky. Jon Favreau is NOT Michael Bay, and that is a wonderful thing. Tony Stark rides around in an Audi R8. A new silver Audi A5/S5 is shown a bit, and Iron Man saves a black Audi Q7 from being destroyed.

In the beginning of the movie, you can make out a Hublot Big Bang with a rich blue face, probably with the tantalum bezel and gold case. This watch is visible at Downey Jr. rolls around in the dust avoiding enemy fire. The Hublot Big Bang is a fitting watch for Tony Stark, as it represents high technology and luxury. The watch is immensely popular in the Hollywood circuit, but then again, most attractive luxury watches are. I imagine that Robert Downey Jr. probably has a collection of these in real life. Though he admits to wearing the Bvlgari watches in Iron Man because of the sponsorship.

After Tony Stark is kidnapped, his captors probably take the Big Bang and trade it for some more arms and armor. After his daring escape and return to Malibu, we see Tony Stark wearing a Bvlgari Diagono Sport with a black face and black leather band while in a tuxedo. The watch in the movie differs from the pictured version in that the movie watch has gold screws in the lugs holding the strap in place, which the pictured watch does not. Bvlgari obviously had some sponsorship in this movie, and the next watch Downey Jr. is seen wearing is a far fancier Bvlgari.

Sadly, this is the closest picture I could get of the gold Bvlgari watch that is worn in Tony Stark's garage/workshop. The movie watch shares the gold case and "Bvlgari Bvlgari" names on the bezel, though it has a new chronograph feature which utilizes two retrograde indicators on the each side of the face. Traditional Bvlgari chronograph watches features typical round subdials for the chronograph registers. Use of retrograde registers is a stylistic approach that offers a more unique sense of functionality. Assuming I find images of the exact watch, I will place them in this post. Any heads up would be appreciated.

In accordance with the first watch worn in the movie (the Hublot Big Bang), Robert Downey Jr. was seen wearing an Orange numbered Bell & Ross BR 01-94 in an interview about the movie. This indicates that Mr. Downey Jr. is indeed a watch fan owning several tech luxury watches. These are perhaps not the most challenging of watches to acquire, but at least he is interested in owning them. Good for him.

Also of immense popularity among the Hollywood crowd are Panerai watches (mainly due to Sylvester Stallone), and IWC. Of course Omega and Rolex have their deeply ingrained popularity as well. But what I really like to see is when a star wears something totally out of the ordinary (I'm not talking about a Timex). I mean a nice and rare watch that signals the wearer put effort in to acquiring or learning about. Not merely something they walked into Westime (popular luxury watch store in Los Angeles) and picked out. Look out for more movie watch sightings.

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*UPDATE*

Many thanks to Jay and Gary who provided more images the watch Bvlgari watches worn in Iron Man. Apparently these watches were preproduction models only lightly announced at Basel World. Here are two more Bvlgari watches shown in the movie. Both watches are in the Bvlgari Diagono line. The funny thing is that the watch displayed in the movie as Robert Downey Jr. looks at the time is set to the customary "10:10" positions that orients the hands in a way most flattering to the watch face. An obvious promotional shot orchestrated by Bvlgari, but fun nonetheless.

First is the watch worn in the beginning of the movie. It was thought this was a Hublot Big Bang, and it sure looks like one, but apparently it was this Blvgari Big Bang clone watch, with similar hands, but smaller dimensions. The Big Bang is in my opinion a nicer watch, but the Bvlgari Diagono Chronograph is now slouch, through I do wish it relied on less rubber. The gold is well done on the case and face, with typical Bvlgari understated sportiness.

The second watch is also a Diagono, but this time with a full calendar, not the chronograph as mentioned before. The calendar does however feature retrograde hands for the day of the week and date. Included is also an innovative retrograde moonphase indicator (that could possibly, but not likely be a power reserve indicator). This Bvlgari calendar excels at symmetry, but isn't the most legible watch to come out of the house of Bvlgari. Regardless, it is a bold and stunning watch. I particularly like the integration of the brown leather strap into the unique Diagono lug design.

So now you have it, the full line of Bvlgari watches to make their screen debut in Iron Man.

See Hublot & Bvlgari watches on eBay here.

See Hublot watches on Amazon here.

See Bvlgari watches on Amazon here.

Genuine Bvlgari Bulgari Hand Sewn Leather watch strap band 175mm 11 16 175X14
$129.00
Time Remaining: 6h 26m
Buy It Now for only: $129.00
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Bvlgari Diagono CH 35 S Chronograph Stainless Steel Automatic No Reserve
$4,750.00
Time Remaining: 8h 20m
Buy It Now for only: $4,750.00
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BVLGARI IPNO Diamond Ceramic Ladies Watch IP20DSL S RRP 2550 BRAND NEW
$2,827.84
Time Remaining: 8h 24m
Buy It Now for only: $2,827.84
Buy It Now

Bulgari Watch Catalog 2008 09 Never Opened Mint
$14.99
Time Remaining: 9h 14m

Bid now

BVLGARI IPNO Digital Ceramic Ladies Watch IP20SL L RRP 1650 BRAND NEW
$1,879.96
Time Remaining: 9h 20m
Buy It Now for only: $1,879.96
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Bvlgari BB 38 SS Automatic SSteel Mens Watch
$2,300.00
Time Remaining: 9h 42m
Buy It Now for only: $2,300.00
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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.