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Jaeger-LeCoultre: Making Timepieces In The Heart Of Watch Country

admin — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 08:05:45 +0000

I am in Switzerland – in the Jura mountains to be exact – and it is snowing. As a California guy I don’t see much snow. In fact, the only times I have really seen snow in my life has been in Europe. The place looks like something out of a Christmas card. There is white covering the ground and lining the trees while quaint little buildings spew puffs of smoke out of their chimneys. It is all very charming in a sort of storybook way. It is also the perfect setting for watch making, and the winter window views of the men and women who work at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

I heard some interesting history which helps to explain at least part of why there are so many watch brands up here. The mostly agrarian culture (traditionally) didn’t have much to do during the long winters. So an indoor activity would have made the most sense. This area also has relatively easy to mine metal ore deposits which the people here have been using for a long time to make metal tools and things like musical instruments. One use for their tool making skills and available metal was watch production. So out here in the middle of nowhere, Switzerland, near the French border, is where a number of world-class watch brands are based. One of them is Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Anyone who is at all interested in watches knows the name - whether you call them JLC, Jaeger, or Jaeger-LeCoultre. It is even OK if you use the German or French pronunciation of “Jaeger.” The brand itself is a marriage of two brands (Jaeger and LeCoultre) which came together years ago. Since the early-mid 1900^th century they have been making watches in Le Sentier, and are one of the largest operations in the area today.

Around the corner from the building is a large parking lot for all the employee cars. There are a healthy number of people who work at the manufacture. While a few of them have desk jobs, most of these people are watch makers, parts makers, and machine operators. It is a factory in every sense of the word. They have everything from loud and oily machine halls to sanitized rooms where watch makers sit on the top floors enjoying the best natural light.

Exploring JLC you find everything from rows of organized horological desks to oven rooms where they bake screws to blue them. That latter operation is quite rare – to produce your own flame blued screws. In-house at the manufacture they do everything from assemble escapement forks to making all of their own cases. Walking through the machinery filled rooms is something any JLC fan should do. One of the most impressive things you need to see hands-on is the amount of industrial steps required to build a single watch from start to finish.

A case for example alone requires dozens of steps. Some people have the notion that with modern technology you just throw a chunk of metal into a fancy cutting machine and it comes out perfectly cut and polished – ready for action. The Reverso case is a great example of something that involves many parts and dozens of small operations. An operation is having that part placed in a special machine or process. Such operations range from being set in dedicated machines whose only purpose it to drill two small holes in the case - to having the lugs finished and polished in several steps by both machine and hand.

Jaeger-LeCoultre also of course makes their own movements – that is sort of the point of the place when it comes down to it. But the larger point is that they not only make their own movements, but they really make most all of the even tiniest parts, cases, and many of their hands and dials. Having everything under one (well several) roof really gives Jaeger-LeCoultre some special strengths as a brand. Strengths that you can probably see in their products.

That strength comes from a sense of integration and verticalization. When the same place houses the people that design the watches and the ones that build them, you can not only keep prices reasonable, but ensure a fluid cohesion in design and execution. That means Jaeger can not only build more complicated watches, but develop them faster. It also means that much of the time cases and movements are designed to go together very well.

Movement design and manufacturing is an extremely tedious and labor intensive process. It takes something like three years minimum to develop a new caliber from the ground up. The hardest part after the engineering is completed is building the tools and programming the machines that will actually build the parts. Special machines at Jaeger-LeCoultre combine human and robotic labor to carefully test parts for adherence to tolerances (which are tiny). It can take months just to develop the machinery that builds the parts needed to make movements.

As you should know, movement components are made with extremely precision. Those in the best movements are carefully hand-finished and decorated individually. Even Jaeger-LeCoultre's more entry-level (if you even want to call it that) timepieces are given hours of hands-on treatment during the manufacturing process. It is easy to take things like tiny pins and gears for granted until you see them being made, evaluated, tested, and polished before being hidden under other metal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has two special decoration departments. One is for engraving and another is for enameling. If you are interested in super detailed tiny artwork then enameling is for you. In-house artists create perfect paintings under microscopes that are oven-tempered to be permanent. They are gorgeous and seemingly impossible. Much of these and the engraving work is applied to Reverso watches. Many of the Reverso models have solid casebacks that can be flipped over. These surfaces are prime real estate for artistic customization. If you have the means, gets yourself a Reverso watch with a bespoke painting on it. you won't be dissappointed.

In addition to wrist watches Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to produce many versions of their famous Atmos clocks - and they do it right here in Le Sentier. The Atmos clock is an amazing device that is powered by changes in air temperature. Fluctuation of just one degree per day is enough to keep the clock going forever bascially. The Atmos department is a wonderland for collectors of the famous clocks. The department not only builds new clocks, but also tests them and services ones sent in for repairs. There are endless Atmos variants from all eras in rows of wood cases that show them off. It is very interesting to see the different clocks and understand the technology that in many ways does offer a truly perpetual mechanism. Atmos clocks are also strategically set up throughout the manufacture on walls to provide the time to employees.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is easily one of the most impressive watch manufactures that I have ever been to. The environment is both modern yet respectful of the brands' storied history. It is also able to do so without coming across as being a brand that too much rests on their laurels. Jaeger-LeCoultre is a connoisseur's brand that almost anyone can enjoy. You won't find a lot of lifestyle marketing for their products, but you will find a lot of classy, timeless watches and some of the coolest sport watches around. Jaeger-LeCoultre just really seems to make sense up here in the calm mountains - now I need to get back to civilization.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon Watch Hands-On

admin — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 08:01:39 +0000

As SIHH each year Jaeger-LeCoultre is on my short list of brands that I am very excited to see. Their booth isn't design by people who work at Universal Studios, and their watches are cool creations that real people might actually wear. This applies to both their reasonably priced pieces and more exotic fare like this new version of the Duometre called the Spherotourbillon. For us Americans I have removed the assortment of accents marks in the words which add in that Frenchy flavor you get when JLC themselves to pronounce the name for you.

As a tourbillon there are two main differences here that make the Spherotourbillon unique. It was hard to name this watch because there isn't anything really spherical about the tourbillon. What you have is a tourbillon that moves around in a special motion similar to that of those spotlight clubs rent to point into the night sky so that people flock there. It is a cool motion to watch in its gentle gyration. The tourbillon itself has a balance spring that isn't flat, but rather cylinder shaped. It looks very cool in operation and is similar to conical balance wheels that I have seen before. I got to check out the piece operating under a microscope and was pleasantly delighted.

Taking pictures of this watch proved irritating. Not because of the watch but because JLC has some protective plastic over the front and back that made it hard to focus and the piece not look at soon. So forgive the ill photography but the piece is quite lovely in person and on the wrist. The base movement is Jaeger-LeCoultre's dual-wing concept that uses two mainspring barrels. Each has a different purpose as one is meant to power the regulation system of the watch (the tourbillon in this case), and the other is meant to power the functionality of the watch. This concept helps reduce amplitude errors and is meant to make the watch more accurate over time.

The open tourbillon window looks like two wings to showcase the concept. On the rear of the watch you can clearly see the two barrels that are nicely labeled for your understanding. The movement and the dial are sort of separated into distinct zones. JLC is really a brand mostly run by watch makers and engineers - and it shows very much so in their design.

For the Duometre Tourbillon JLC created the Caliber 382 movement. It has a power reserve of 50 hours and is comprised of 460 parts. The movement finishing is beautiful and on part with what we have come to expect from not just high-end JLC, but most of their watches which exhibit great finishing and detailing.

Functionally the Caliber 382 has a lot of features. Note that this version is a prototype and some small details will be enhanced for the final retail version (for instance the font used for the date will be larger). The watch has an off-centered time display, the date, power reserve indicators for both barrels, a second time zone in 24 hour format, and a unique stop-seconds function.

That latter function uses a pusher at 2pm to stop and reset the subsidiary seconds display for the time. It is used for more precise setting of the time and works similar to how a chronograph resets itself. While not super necessary it is a cool function that will help prove that playing with the watch will be more interesting. The functions on the dial are easy to read but also attractive. You'll notice that the dial texture and color are what I would call egg shell.

For this watch JLC chose a 42mm wide case in 18k pink gold case. This feels like a proper size for a watch with this type of complication. JLC also has a range of popular Duometre style watch that are a bit smaller at 40.5mm wide. Even though this is an exotic watch it is comfortable on the wrist and very simple to read. Very few brands are able to accomplish this while also being technically exciting.

Jaeger-LeCoultre will produce the Duometre Spherotourbillon as a production model without limitation for likely a few years. I anticipate that a white gold version will also be available soon. Steel? Not so likely. Price for this special new watch will be about $200,000 when it is released a bit later this year. Certainly a highlight of SIHH 2012.

Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon -Technical specifications from JLC:
Movement
• Mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 382, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand, nickel silver bridges and mainplate
• 2 barrels
• 50-hour power reserve
• 460 parts
• 55 jewels
• 10.45 mm thick
• 33.70 mm in diameter

Sphérotourbillon
• 105 parts
• Tourbillon carriage: grade 5 titanium
• Total rotation speed: 30 seconds for a complete revolution
• 2 combined movements. Carriage axis rotation speed: 15 seconds for a complete revolution. Carriage rotation speed: 30 seconds for a complete revolution
• Carriage inclination: 20°
• Carriage diameter: 11.50 mm
• Carriage mass: 0.518 grams
• 14-carat gold balance with eccentric inertia blocks in 14-carat gold, inertia = 12.5 mg.cm2 , 21,600 vibrations per hour
• Cylindrical balance-spring

Functions
• Hours (travel time), minutes and small seconds with flyback function
• Power reserves (indications and movement)
• Pointer-type date display
• 24-hour reference time-zone
• Sphérotourbillon

Case
• 18-carat pink gold
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.1 mm (including the sapphire crystal)
• Polished and satin-brushed finish

• Domed glareproofed front and back sapphire crystals, hardness n°9
• Water resistance : 5 bars

Dial
• Crystalline grained
• pink gold appliques

Hands
• Hours and minutes: “leaf” type
• Small seconds: baton type with pear-shaped counterweight, blued steel

Crowns
• One crown to wind the watch, set the time (travel time-zone), adjust the date and adjust the travel time-zone
• One push-piece at 2 o’clock to activate the small seconds flyback mechanism

Strap
• Hand-sewn crocodile leather, 18-carat pink gold pin buckle

Reference:
• 605 25 20

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge Watch

admin — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 10:17:55 +0000

Now isn't that pretty? This is a special Milan Boutique edition of the newer Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin watch. The version with the limited "heritage" dial that is. According to Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1930's red (among other bright colors) were very popular for wrist watch dials. This model has a bright red lacquered dial. I don't know whether it is limited and if it is only available at the JLC Milan boutique - but it is a looker. Check out the vintage Reverso ad below as well.

Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge : technical specs

Movement
• mechanical hand-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• 21 jewels
• 2.94 mm thick
• 134 parts
• 45-hour power reserve
Functions
• hours, minutes
Dial
• red lacquered
• silver-toned hour-markers
Case
• steel
• 46 mm long
• 27.5 mm wide
• 7.27 mm thick
• “1000 Hours Control” indication on the caseback
• water resistance: 3 bar
Boutique edition

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs Watch Review

admin — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 08:07:32 +0000

Ask anyone interested in quality mechanical watches and they will tell you that Jaeger-LeCoultre makes a fine timepiece. Through its rich history, the brand has succeeded in almost universally having watch fans get excited about their movements and quality.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has achieved the difficult task of setting a high bar for itself mechanically. The next step after that was to capture the hearts of as much of the watch lover market as possible. That was the more difficult part. JLC gained a lot of popularity with their more formal iconic pieces such as the Reverso and classic Master Compressor. That wasn't enough for them. Several years ago Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to double its efforts in the popular high-end sport watch market as well.

Then the Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy SEALs watch was borne. The idea was that JLC would work closely with United States Navy SEAL soldiers to design and develop watches that would live up to their expectations in training and combat. The hoped result would be super cool watches with famous Jaeger-LeCoultre movements inside of them that every guy wanted to have. Especially since it was “performance tested and designed,” versus just made in a design studio. With a goal like that JLC again set the bar very high. The evolved Master Compressor watches in the Navy SEALs collection certainly do get a lot of attention, and are worth looking at whether you want to be like the Navy SEALs or not.

I didn’t have a lot of experience with this collection before the review, but after wearing this amazing watch for a while I am sold on the execution and really like this piece. I’ve talked with JLC a lot about their work with Navy SEALs and the feedback they get. The joke among collectors is always that no Navy SEALs guy wearing a JLC can afford one. That may be true, but at least Jaeger didn’t make them pay for the watches. Soldiers just get too many perks I tell you.

About a year or two ago there was a smaller 42mm wide version of the Master Compression Navy SEALs released that I discussed here. The reason for this smaller model was because it was demand by the SEALs themselves. That is amusing because most of the pieces are larger, with the chronograph I tested coming in a 46.3mm wide case – I love the big size. Though you all should know by now how much I appreciate larger watches.

46.3mm can wear either larger or small, in this case it wears comfortably and does not feel massive. This is not a small watch though. This version of the watch is in titanium with a gray PVD coating over the most brushed metal. Steel is used for parts of the outer bezel as well as Master Compressor style locks on the crown and pushers. Most of the bezel is dark gray matte ceramic with the numerals and markers sharply engraved in its surface. There is an applied steel triangle at the 60 minute marker on the bezel.

The mixture of steel, ceramic, and titanium feels satisfying. Jaeger has achieved a very aggressive look that is also legible, classy, and masculine. It is a very good execution of a modern sports watch with a Swiss level of refinement.

For this watch Jaeger-LeCoultre offers 1000 meters of water resistance. You rarely find chronograph watches with that much durability. Now I know why “Diver” is part of the name of the watch. The high level of water resistance is aided by the special crown and pusher lock system unique to Jaeger-LeCoultre. If you aren’t familiar with the system, here is how it works; you twist the lock around the crown or pusher to lock the piece or allow it to operate. This is in contrast to a screw-in system, though they functionally work is the same way. This system is however more convenient and you’ll end up appreciating it. The crown and pushers themselves are rubber coated.

Lovers of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s various Master Compressor watches from the last few years will feel right at home here. Though I dare to suggest that the dial is a bit more aggressive and legible in this model. The hands and hour markers are bold and offer with a high level of contrast compared to the dial. There is thick and bright lume all over the dial. The second time-zone hand is non-lumed. This is a bit of a trade-off design decision actually. Not luming it allows it to be visible, but not distracting when looking at the time. I have to say that overall I prefer this style of second time zone hand integration as opposed to one that visually competes with the main hour hand. What JLC did was brush the top of the hand to offer very good visibility when you are looking for it -though it doesn’t get in the way when you want to only look at the time. Going back to the lume for a moment, you’ll find that JLC uses different colors of lume for the hour and minute hand to enhance visibility is murky conditions.

In addition to the black and white tones JLC adds yellow as a trim color. You see it on the minute scale on the flange ring, at the tip of the chronograph seconds hands, and on the strap. While this is a super diver watch, the strap is meant for more terrestrial use. I recommend using something like a rubber strap if you are going to be using this piece underwater.

The strap on the watch is pretty slick and grew on me quickly. Jaeger-LeCoultre designed it from a few materials and colors. The inner lining is yellow while the outside is black. Most of the strap is calfskin leather. I like how the strap ends have give to them, but are also designed to curve with the shape of the case.

Over the dial is an AR coated domed sapphire crystal. There is of course glare because it is domed, but not much, and legibility is always high. In addition to the 12 hour chronograph is a second time-zone function. I don’t personally use the term GMT because that hand is a 12 hour, versus 24 hour hand. Though you’ll notice in the name of the watch that Jaeger does call it a “GMT” watch. There is a neat little feature that tells you whether it is AM or PM in the second time zone. This is done with small day/night indicator window under the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo under 12 o’clock. Nice system right? Overall the watch has the time, two time zones, the date, and chronograph. A lot of healthy functionality here, and in addition to being a good sports watch, it is a great traveler’s watch.

Inside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs is a Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house made and designed caliber 757 automatic movement. The watch contains two barrels with 65 hours of power reserve and it operates at 28,800 bph. The longer power reserve is a nice feature and I found it to be both accurate and easy to operate. Then again, it is a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. As an inherently fancy tool watch the Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy Seals does not disappoint. Aside from the special Navy SEALs engraved caseback, I didn’t find myself ever thinking about the Navy SEALs connection very much. It just wasn’t necessary as I was preoccupied with enjoying the watch. One of the things that I’ve know Jaeger to focus on is functionality much more so that some of their competitors. It feels a lot like a watch brand made by people who love and know watches.

As a larger sport watch the Master Compressor Navy SEALs collection of pieces aren’t cheap, but they are not ridiculous in price for what you get. They look good and work well, suitable for being a reliable daily wear. Many of them are limited editions such as this model which is limited to 500 pieces. Price is about $13,400 for this Jaeger-LeCoultre reference 178T471 watch.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso By Zep Watch

admin — Sat, 17 Sep 2011 07:17:36 +0000

I'll be really frank that I have no idea who or what Zep is. I mean I know a bit more now after researching and writing this article, but seeing his little smoke plume-haired character for the first time was a novel experience. I guess it is a Swiss/European thing. What... Tin Tin makes it international but Titeuf and Asterix are Euro only? Having said that, I do love cartoons and comics of all varieties. Something about hand-drawn things that really appeal to me.

Zep is the pseudonym of an artist who draws and writer a comic strip series known as Titeuf and is Swiss. I swear, I was not even sure the Swiss were capable of comics and humor until I saw this. Though it is all in French so I don't know what type of humor it is. Can anyone out there comment? I hear he is pretty popular.

Zep's real name is Philippe Chappuis, and recently worked with Jaeger-LeCoultre on this one-of-a-kind Zep watch. I think it is pretty cool.. Zep designed the dial and caseback engraving. There is also a special trick to the dial that I don't recall seeing before. See that think above the crown? That is actually a small wheel the you turn to close a metal curtain over the dial to hide or reveal it. I think that is pretty cool.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been experimenting with these mini metal curtains. Another watch of theirs (much higher-end) that also uses a curtain is this Reverso Repetition a Rideau watch. Though on that watch the curtain was external and was used to activate the minute repeater. In this case it is to hide the fact that the wear of the Reverso by Zep watch is a comics fan. Go into a business meeting and just turns the wheel a bit to hide all that. Not sure why though as I think the dial Zep created is quite attractive.

Like the scene in Charlie Chaplin's famous Modern Times, Zep's signature character is drawn stuck in gears. Though this time it isn't some industrial machine but rather a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. Come to think of it, this is the first ever cartoon watch movement I have ever seen. Note the floating letters that spell out "Reverso."

The dial is done in enamel and looks very pretty. Jaeger-LeCoultre used an 18k rose gold case to frame the art. This item is also apparently part of their larger 80th anniversary of the Reverso watch celebration. Sadly there will only be one such Reverso by Zep watch. Wish it was a limited edition at least. The watch will be offered via auction at the Artcurial auction house in Paris on November 29, 2011. So if you want it, you know where to go and bid.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Repetition Minutes a Rideau Watch Hands-On

admin — Sat, 14 May 2011 10:16:32 +0000

One of the more interesting high-complication watches for Jaeger-LeCoultre this year was the Reverso Répétition Minutes Ã Rideau. The oddly named watch (if I see more than one accent mark my eyes start to glaze over) actually just translates into minute repeater via curtain. Being a Reverso the watch has two dials, one of which is covered with a sliding metal curtain. Using your finger, you push the curtain aside to reveal one of the two watch dials. The curtain also activates the minute repeater complication.

What Jaeger-LeCoultre did in the the 'Reverso Curtain' is literally take two relatively thin movements and place them back to back. The images here show you each of them and how they fit together. There is one crown to control them both and they are manually wound. It sounds as though JLC considers them one movement and together they are called the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 944. The movement is hand assembled and decorated, and it looks pretty darn nice at that.

Both movements are presented via open face dials for you to view with the blued steel hour and minute hands generally seen in the Reverso range. The decor of the movements is done in a nice, traditional manner. JLC could have gone more modern with the design of the movements but I feel as though they kept it classic because this watch is part of the Reverso collection's 80th anniversary. This is also a good example of quasi art deco styling that you'll find in a lot of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches.

The Reverso watch case is in 18k white gold and is 35mm wide by 55mm tall. The curtain takes up a lot of it and actually wraps around much of the case. When moved out of the way on the front it moves over to cover the opposite watch dial. The action is smooth and I think the mini metal curtain is pretty neat. The effect of "revealing" the dial is a nice, poetic touch. If you were to wear the watch with the curtain side faced up, it would add a sense of mystery as people only see the look of the Venetian style blind on the face of the watch. I should note that the curtain is spring loaded so that the minute repeater side is only visible when you actively push the curtain out of the way.

The other side of the watch has a very nice series of engravings around the dial. They are almost art deco in appearance and start with clos du Paris pyramids on the movement plate itself. Further engravings surround the watch face and are quite interesting to see. I haven't seen anything quite like that before and find it attractive.

While the JLC Reverso Repetition Minutes a Rideau doesn't really break a lot of ground technically, it is a fun and complex watch strategically suited to appeal to collectors and fans of the Reverso collection. I like the watch a lot and I think JLC did a good job. Not sure about price but the production run will be limited to 75 pieces.

Tech specs from Jaeger-LeCoultre:

Movement:
- mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 944, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
- 21,600 vibrations per hour
- 340 parts
- 35-hour power reserve
- 35 jewels
- thickness: 5.89 millimeters, repeater module: 1.85 millimeters
- 2 barrels
- 1,000 hours chronometer test
Functions:
- hours and minutes on both sides
- minute repeater
Dial:
- open-worked front dial revealing the repeater mechanism with ruthenium coated bridges
- open-worked back dial revealing the bridges of the movement
Case:
- 18-carat white gold
- height: 55 millimeters
- width: 35 millimeters
- thickness: 12 millimeters
- 270 parts
- two sapphire crystals, hardness 9 out of 10
- water-resistance to 3 bar
Strap:
- alligator leather with 18-carat white gold pin buckle
Reference:
- Q2353520, 75-piece limited edition

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Watch Hands-On

admin — Sun, 03 Apr 2011 18:43:47 +0000

Jaeger-LeCoultre's answer to the thin watch in 2011 was with their Reverso. Many of the Richemont brands were releasing their own slim watches, and I think the Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin is one of the sleeker models. As of now it will come in at least four versions. Some unlimited models including one with a more typical Reverso face guilloche engraved silvered dial with Arabic numerals, and a tribute dial that hearkens back to some of the original Reverso models. The limited edition models have slightly different dial or come in 18k pink.

The model pictured at the very bottom of the article is the "Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 U.S. Edition" watch - and I will cover it first. This one uses all baton hour markers with tan lume on them to look aged. It also has different style hands than the other models. What is really special is the strap. It is made by a fellow living in Argentina named Eduardo Fagliano who makes boots for polo players. Polo is big in Argentina, and Jaeger-LeCoultre is big in Polo. As you've probably heard a few times by now, the original Reverso was made for British Polo players.

Fagliano is said to be one of the greatest book makers, and was specially commissioned by JLC to make the strap for the US limited edition model. There will be only 100 of these version and they will have a price of $7,250 in steel. OK, now on to more hands-on stuff.

The Grande Reverso Ultra-Think is 7.2mm thick and in a 27.5mm by 46mm case. Even being that thin the case still allows the watch to flip around in true Reverso style. It looks and feels great on the wrist. When I first saw images of the watch I was feeling pretty ho-hum about it. I liked the looks of it but felt it might be a bit lacking in the excitement department - especially because I get so enthusiastic about JLC sport watches. When I put the Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin on my wrist, my perception changed and I felt a lot more positive about the watch. It just has a really nice elegant feel to it. I would term it "dignified." The style is sophisticated and demure - with various decorative elements but nothing too showy. It will win a lot of friends without having to try too hard.

My favorite piece is the 18k rose gold Tribute model. The limited edition models all have "Tribute to 1931" added to their name because they replicate original dials. This one has Arabic hour markers at 12 and 6, with baton hour markers elsewhere. Just a neat retro look. They did a good job with this collection in 1931, and now we can appreciate that again today.

Inside the Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin watches is a manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house made calibre 822 movement. The movement is assembled and decorated by hand, which is nice, but I think it would be awesome to make another version with a power reserve indicator. Think about it. The Reverso flip case is fun to operate, but you don't often have a reason to do it. What if you put the power reserve indicator on the back of the case. This way you could not only have that added information to know when to wind the movement, but you'll also have an excuse to play with the case. Sounds win-win to me, and maybe we will see that? Not sure about pricing for the whole collection, but you can get a pretty good idea of the pricing knowing the limited edition steel model is $7,250. A bit less for the standard steel models, and a bit more for the gold models. Look for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ulta-Thin and Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute to 1931 limited edition watches soon.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Ã Tourbillon Watch

admin — Tue, 08 Mar 2011 18:23:23 +0000

Coming in three slightly different models, this is the Jaeger-LeCoutlre Master Grande Tradition a Tourbillon watch with the Calibre 978 automatic tourbillon chronometry competition winning movement. Super traditional, but very nice. Just what you think of when you desire an in-house made JLC tourbillon movement based timepiece.

See my full article on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition a Tourbillon watch at Haute Living here.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute To Deep Sea Re-issue Watches

admin — Sat, 19 Feb 2011 08:04:21 +0000

It wasn't until I put this watch (I mean watches) on my wrist, that I understood why Jager-LeCoultre wanted to make it (again). The Memovox Deep Sea was the brand's first real dive watch - made in 1959 until the early 1960s. I read that 1,061 pieces were ever produced. Getting one today (in any condition) is an almost impossible task. And there you have your reason. The history behind the watch is sufficient for JLC to make it again - to offer aficionado's the ability to obtain and un-obtainable watch. Makes sense right? And isn't that what offering a "re-issue" watch is all about.

At first glance I was not moved by these non-identical twins. "Vintage looking dive watches... enough said," I thought. Then I was introduced the pieces and got a chance to put them on. A smile came over my face and I had a real sense of social nostalgia. I was not alive when these watches came out, but something about the golden age of Cousteau and fighting to dive deep into the ocean came over me. I started to think of silly cartoons from the 1970s that idealized underwater exploration. It was like I was wearing a watch someone would wear in Johnny Quest - it was just a fun watch that really felt like a piece of history. The fact that it was physically produced just a few months ago didn't really seem to matter.

The watch, like many other vintage inspired timepieces, is a study in quality replication. Amusingly enough, the watch is Jaeger-LeCoultre making a replica of its own pieces. For a nice report on the original, you can see this post here. JLC changes only a few things. Well, for starters the movement is not the same. These two watches contain the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 automatic alarm movement with a power reserve of 45 hours. The movement has two crowns, one for adjusting the time, and another for the alarm. The watches are also a tad bit larger than the originals - but not my much. The Memovox Tributes are 40.5mm wide in steel.

Like the originals they have plexiglass crystals, 100 meters of water resistance, and a cool black and faded yellow look to the dials. The straps on the new models are meant to be reminiscent of the woven fabric straps of the originals. Today they are done in a textured black leather.

OK, so no for some interesting history on why there are two pieces. The cleaner looking dial was meant for the European market, while the other dial was meant for the United Stats market. Note that the brand name is different on them. In Europe consumers got a Jaeger-LeCoultre, while Americans got a LeCoultre watch. Now why is that? Stephane Belmont, product manager at JLC told me the story. At the time JLC was not allowed to use the "Jaeger-LeCoultre" name in the US for intellectual property reasons. Not totally sure why that is, but it was not until later on that JLC obtained the rights to use its full brand name in the US. For that reason, you have two different brand name.

There is another reason the dials are different. Apparently the US market simply wanted something different than what US had. So JLC came up with a different dial design that US retailers requested. I don't think the text on the dial looked so great, but that is how it was in 1959, and that is how it will be in 2011.

Another interesting story about the watch is why it has an alarm. Underwater, alarms are more functional than outside of the water. That is because sound travels more efficiently - so you can hear them better. Jaeger wanted to separate its dive watch from those made by other brands that had rotating dive bezels. Such bezels where used to help divers with certain reminders. So Jaeger-LeCoultre decided that its dive watch would have an alarm. That way you could time an event and actually be reminded when it was time to do something. I would have never thought of that unless JLC told me about it. Like many other brands Jaeger-LeCoultre watches have a lot of great history, but you need to really experience the brand for a while to learn all the little stories.

For me the nicest model is that for Europe, but that is my taste. That modelÂ (the "Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea Replica of the “Jaeger-LeCoultre Classique 1959" Ref. Q2028470) will be re-made as a limited edition of 959 pieces. The other model ("Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea Replica of the “LeCoultre Spécial Amérique 1959” Ref. Q2028440) will be limited to just 359 pieces. Price for either will be 9,500 euros.Â

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Eight Days Perpetual 16124SQ Watch Available On James List

admin — Sun, 05 Dec 2010 08:05:50 +0000

Back in 2007 Jaeger-LeCoultre released this Master Eight Days Perpetual calendarÂ (ref. 16124SQ) watch - and it still looks beautiful today. With an original price of about $100,000 , there are (relative) deals to be found today. The skeletonized black 'frosted' movement is amazing to look at, but you'll have to forgive the design for making you hunt a bit for all the information that you have available on the dial. The movement color is actually due to ruthenium, and there are transparent discs all over the dial.

Set in a 41mm wide 18k pink gold "Master" collection case, the watch nicely mixes classic Jaeger-LeCoultre aesthetic with the visual interest of a modern style skeletonized movement. Legibility is maintained through use of gold hands and hour markers that contrast with the gray other elements which are great. Jaeger-LeCoultre knows that people wearing the watch will be primarily interested in the time, and rely on the other information less. I do feel that the design of the dial is quite clever.

The manually wound movement is made and designed by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Skeletonization and design are of course top-notch. Features include a perpetual calendar, time (with day/night indicator), power reserve indicator, and moon phase indicator. Look closely on the dial to see where all the information is. The watch features an 8 day power reserve. Don't you love the "globe style" design of the back of the movement. The movement itself is the Calibre 876QS.

Watches such as this transformed in to those with wild case designs to match the skeletonized movements later on. This watch is almost a not-so-missing link between classic timepieces and the ultra modern. The perfect everyday watch for Mr. well-to-do that enjoys haute horology? Maybe. This watch "speaks" to one's love of restrained good taste and watch making. While complex and a bit showy, the watch is still useful. A lot of this is thanks to the complications that Jaeger-LeCoultre built in. Perpetual calendars are going to be much more useful than say minute repeaters or tourbillons. I will call this Master Eight Days Perpetual the luxury timepiece for the thinking man. It was part of a limited production series and price for a new one James List right now is just under $60,000.

See this Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Eight Days Perpetual 16124SQ watch available on James List here.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.