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Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

James Stacey — Fri, 18 May 2012 19:07:25 +0000

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been riding a wave of high praise in the wake of their SIHH announcements of vintage-inspired watches, such as the Tribute to Memovox Deep Sea of 2011 and the Tribute to Deep Sea Chronograph from earlier this year. While we like tributes as much as the next guy, we really like it when a watch manufacturer, especially one as well-regarded as JLC, can dig deep and create something that stands on its own. Case in point, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph, a more modern and practical variation of the winning formula that gave birth to the Tribute to Deep Sea Chronograph.

This 42mm dive-ready chronograph features a number of changes over the 40.5 mm Tribute design we saw earlier this year. The vintage lume has thankfully been replaced with crisp white SuperLumiNova, the two register display has been upgraded to to a trio of matched sub dials and the fixed bezel of the vintage-inspired model has been swapped out in favor of an ISO 6425 compliant unidirectional rotating bezel. I find the overall design is reminiscent of the Omega Speedmaster, but that is likely due to its largely monochrome color scheme and piston-style pushers. I am a huge fan of dressy divers so it is of little surprise that I think this new JLC looks great and that I really appreciate a style that makes as much sense while out for dinner as it does while diving.

The dial is nicely proportioned and features appropriately sized hands and markers, which should prove to be legible in a variety of conditions. The subdial at three (a 30 minute totalizer) and nine (a 12 hour totalizator) oddly remind me of the gauges seen in old Ford Mustangs and I really like the long hands and almost Bauhaus font used for the numbering. While this is a more modern style than the Tribute version of the Deep Sea, it is still a classic and rather reserved interpretation of the dive chronograph, especially for JLC. I suppose Jaeger-LeCoultre contrasts designs like the Deep Sea Chronograph with the more raucous and complex styling seen in parts of the AMVOX and Master Compressor lines (illustrated below).

A balanced and reserved style is actually not the Deep Sea Chronograph's only notable attribute. Just take a closer look at the photos. Below the "Jaeger-LeCoultre" on the dial, there is a small aperture which has three phases depending on the current status of the chronograph - be it idle, running, or paused. When idle, the aperture shows an inconspicuous white circle but this will transition to being white and red while the chronograph is running and a solid red when the measure is paused. Jaeger-LeCoultre calls this a "chronograph operation indicator" and it is essentially a way for a diver to be able to quickly verify that the chronograph is running and timing their dive (or in my case, more likely a French press). I like the simple and crisp white of the idle phase but LOVE the white/red of the running phase, which has no doubt been designed to be reminiscent of a diving flag.

This is an example of simple but thoughtful design which adds a touch of cool to this luxury 100m dive chronograph but manages to do so without compromising its understated aesthetic. I love a complication that is simultaneously cool enough to show your watch nerd buddies and yet nearly invisible to the horologically untrained eye. That said, if I were fortunate enough to own such a watch, it would likely only ever get wet if I fell into a pool, as I don't posses the fortitude to actually take such a watch diving. As capable as this ten thousand dollar dive chronograph may be, it would certainly only see desk-dive use under my care.

Under the matte black dial beats the Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house calibre 758 which is a 47 jewel automatic movement featuring a 65 hour power reserve. The Deep Sea Chronograph appears to be the only JLC that features this movement and specific style of chronograph operation indicator. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Geographic Navy Seals features a similar aperture, but it is used as an am/pm indicator as opposed to a chronograph operation indicator.

This version of the Deep Sea Chronograph does a lot that I love, it forgoes the Tribute vibe but instead makes for a more compelling and likely more timeless design as its not so heavily anchored in the past or reflective of the current trends. It would have been nice for buyers to at least have the option of a bracelet, although one could argue that a bracelet should be included, given the price tag of $10, 800 USD. Considering Jaeger-LeCoultre's stance as a top tier manufacture, the Deep Sea Chronograph is a fitting addition to their line up that combines everyday wearability with a dive-ready and practical feature set. What's not to like?

[Editor's note: Nice restrained design all around making for a good daily wear. Shows the flexibility of the JLC brand offering modern and vintage inspired watches with ease. Though, pictures of a vintage inspired watch on a super-modern diver are ironic, to say the least. Let's wear this watch couch surfing instead.]

Written by James Stacey

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon I & II Watches Hands-On

admin — Sun, 15 Apr 2012 07:02:08 +0000

It might have been about 2005 that Jaeger-LeCoultre released the first Gyrotourbillon watch. When it came out, it caused a real stir and it was released during what I call "the tourbillon wars". During this time brand after brand began to release tourbillon escapement-based watches. This was interesting because the entire idea of a tourbillon was to be complicated and exclusive. Theoretically speaking (if you believed the hype) only a few top brands in the world could master a tourbillon and not everyone should have one. Though many did.

As more and more brands began to release tourbillon-based watches, the best ones realized that having "just" a tourbillon was no longer enough. This launched a wave of talented watch designers who considered how they might push the tourbillon to its limit and offer things no one else could. This resulted in things like the flying tourbillon, multi-axis tourbillon, and watches with multiple tourbillons. Probably the most famous super-exotic tourbillon out there was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon.

It was developed and assembled with the help of Eric Coudray (who is now at Cabestan). He still receives top honors in the watch world for building the Gyrotourbillon. There was the Gyrotourbillon I followed by the Gyrotourbillon II about five years later. Both have similar roots but are totally different watches. The Gyrotourbillon I was in a more traditional 43.5mm wide round case done in platinum. It is actually the more technically complex of the two in terms of functions. The watch has the time, perpetual calendar (with a unique way of displaying the calendar information), a power reserve indicator, and the equation of time as displayed via a sidereal hand on the time dial. There was an interesting mixture between skeletonization and sparsity of the dial. This was the first time people were able to see such a tourbillon and it was thrilling.

Both Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon watches were limited editions of just 75 pieces. You can still find them for sale but NOT for cheap. These are among the few pieces in the world that as investment items, have the potential to admirably appreciate. That is something you can't say about most watches out there. Inside the original Gyrotourbillon was a JLC made caliber 177 manually wound movement it has close to 700 parts and has a power reserve of eight (8) days. While a bit unique in its style, this is among the most impressive modern high-complication watches in existence and is a testament to what Jaeger-LeCoultre as a brand stands for.

What is different about JLC in comparison to even many of its sister companies is just how much of a manufacture they are. We are talking a place where movement parts, movement assembly, cases, hands, and dials are made. JLC really makes a lot more "watch" than most people are used to.

When the Gyrotroubillon II came out, people's perception of what a wild tourbillon watch could be was radically changed all over again. This time set in a super-sized Reverso style case, the all platinum watch was over 36mm wide and 55mm tall. Because of all the platinum in the case, the thing seems to be a pound or more. The tourbillon however is light. It has a titanium cage and if you held it in your hand you'd barely feel it.

What was special about the tourbillons in these Gyrotourbillon watches was that they had cylindrical balance wheels versus flat ones. Something Jaeger-LeCoultre carried over for example in the 2012 Duometre Spherotourbillon. Seeing the tourbillon move around like a gyroscope is really amazing. Even though it is just two axis points, the illusion is mesmerizing and it doesn't take an expert to realize a watch like this is very difficult to assemble and produce.

While the Gyrotourbillon II is a more simple watch functionally, it does appear more visually complex. The fully skeletonized dial and case back reveal the beautifully designed and crafted movement. As a Reverso, there is a lever (on this larger cased version) to flip the dial and see the caseback. Functionally, this JLC caliber 174 movement has a gyrotourbillon, 50 hour power reserve with indicator, 24 hour dial, and the time. That is it. Though, it is really a much more interesting and satisfying experience from a visual perspective. The case is again in platinum and this is one hefty watch in terms of weight and design.

The look and feel of the Gyrotourbillon is both exemplary of an era but also timeless. The Reverso style case is pretty much always in style and the movement is a testament to the tasteful side of horological decadence. It is functional and symmetrical while also being over-the-top. What goes into the movement just to make them work is a story unto itself.

As I said before, these are among the few watch models out there that I could easily say will likely hold or increase in value for the future. This is due to the item itself, as well as its cult status among the most ardent watch lovers. Originally, each of these watches cost well over $300,000. Today, there are a few floating around for more than that. In the near future I anticipate many or most of the 75 pieces of each model to be in the hands of collectors and simply available via auction from time to time. I am lucky to have gotten the close-in time with these pieces that I did.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Mad Men Reverso Watch Hands-On

admin — Wed, 04 Apr 2012 07:04:33 +0000

"The 1960s was the sexiest era in US history." I am paraphrasing Mad Men creator Matthew Weiner after interviewing him in conjunction with the launch of the limited edition Mad Men Reverso watch known as the "Mad for Reverso" piece. His personal love of the era easily transcends through the show. "It was about time for the era's style to make a comeback." And it sure has. Everything from fashion to furniture as of late has been (at least in part) influenced by the popular television show on AMC.

I asked Weiner if he at all anticipated the influence on style that the show would have. As it isn't possible to anticipate a show's success, it is hard to know in advance the type of effect it will have on pop culture. Weiner seemed to express that the style-shift focusing on post-war booming America was almost inevitable, and that he was just following what he loves. His carefree attitude reflects more interest in the authenticity of the show's look and feel versus how people react to it. It is a good sentiment for a creative type - to focus more on creating a perfect world re-creation versus worrying about how others might respond to it.

From the beginning, the show was supposed to visually capture the 1960s seamlessly, but the first season had its hiccups. Something that Weiner reacted to with vehement passion. He describes how numerous historical and factual inaccuracies in the details of the show's initial season upset him. One example which will amuse us watch lovers is the inclusion of a quartz watch. In the first season, the main character (Don Draper) gifts a watch to his wife. Nothing wrong with that except that it had a quartz movement. The very first quartz movement-based watch wasn't introduced until 1969, with smaller women's models coming out even later. The prop in the scene was at least 10 or more years off (not to mention the style didn't fit). It is a tiny detail as far as most people are concerned but one that irked Weiner enough to fire the guy responsible. According to Weiner, after the first season things dramatically improved, especially after he hired prop master Ellen Freund (whom he credits with much of the accuracy the show is now known for).

Speaking of props, I am speaking with Weiner as he wears a watch that in a sense is a real life Mad Men prop. In collaboration with the show, Jaeger-LeCoultre produced a limited edition of 25 pieces of the Reverso watch meant to appear like something from the actual story. Based on the Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin 1931 Tribute watch, the Mad for Reverso piece has a special engraving of the Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce (SCDP) logo on the caseback (that flips over of course). I first debuted the Jaeger-LeCoultre Mad about Reverso watch here. I think the technical name of the watch is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute to Mad Men "Mad for Reverso" watch. There is some nice trivia for you.

The steel-cased Reverso has the "heritage" dial and is 27.5mm wide by 46mm tall. Inside the watch is a manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre made calibre 822 mechanical movement. The logo applied to the caseback is joined with the number in the limited edition. It comes with a letter written by Weiner as the character Roger Sterling, who is presenting the Reverso watch as a gift. It also comes with a book (that I believe can be purchased separately) called "Sterling's Gold", which includes selected amusing quotes from the show. It is a good looking watch, and Weiner seems to like his. It goes with his style rather fluidly.

As a concept this limited edition is interesting. It is a subtle homage to the influence of show, a reminder of the timeless design of the Reverso, and a unique limited edition piece specially designed to appeal to Mad Men show lovers. This is like a much classier way of enjoying Mad Men in the same way a Star Trek fan might wear Vulcan ears.

Jaeger-LeCoultre was actually a piece of the show before it was sold to AMC according to Weiner. As I understand it he bought a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox alarm watch that he wanted Don Draper to wear - which he kinda does in the first season. Here is where Hollywood magic comes in. They can't actually really use expensive props on set. So things get reproduced. The prop master created a sort of make believe watch that had the case of a JLC Memovox, and a dial based on the look of a Rolex Cellini. Yes, that is part of why he got fired. No more of that under Weiner's watchful gaze.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Mad for Reverso watch is a fun way to enjoy Mad Men off the screen. As I mentioned, it is a highly limited piece. Only 25 will be made at a price of $8,450.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Duoface Watch Review

admin — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 07:09:03 +0000

As I write this review I am actually freshly back from a visit of the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture in Le Sentier, Switzerland. In the watch industry the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture is considered a special place because it is a serious factory where both cases and movements are made - which is a rare combo. I got to see a lot of Reverso cases being produced and realized just how complex they are to manufacture. A simple case requires dozens of steps that involve both hand and machine work. The efforts are necessary to achieve the right shape, polish, and of course unique case flipping mechanism.

The original Reverso was produced in 1931 for British polo players stationed in India. The elite group wanted a watch they could wear while playing the game without too much risk of damage. At the time watch crystals were mostly glass and were relatively fragile. The Reverso case was designed to flip over and reveal a polished piece of solid metal to protect the crystal on the other side. The flipping case mechanism has of course been modernized a bit, but retains the same basic system as developed about 80 years ago. Last year Jaeger-LeCoultre fervently celebrated the 80th anniversary of the Reverso which involved the release of many new models, limited editions, and a closer look at the heritage of the watch. For review I had the pleasure of checking out one of the newer pieces - the Grande Reverso Duoface (also sometimes just called "Duo") timepiece (ref. Q374.24.21).

The Reverso comes in a range of sizes and style. The largest of modern watches are the super-sized Reverso cases in Jaeger-LeCoultre's highest end models such as the Gyrotourbillon II and the Triptyque. The Grande Reverso is a step down from that. The more square Squadra is a handsome sporty option as well. Then there are smaller men's versions as well as a few sizes for the ladies. The Grande Reverso case is 32.15mm wide and about 52mm tall. That length of the case prevents it from looking small. I would not say that the piece wears large, but it certainly doesn't feel petite. The Reverso is a super classic look. Those three horizontal lines in the case above and below the dial really make it look distinctive, and the overall look and feel of the piece is ultra-classy. No where will a Reverso look out of place.

The case flipping function is slick and well-engineered. Hell, the brand did have 80 years to work on it. There are spring-loaded ball bearings that help it move easily and snap securely into place. Originally the Reverso has a plain metal caseback. Jaeger-LeCoultre early-on realized that this space was useful for custom engravings, enamel paintings, etc... Today for example there is a special Reverso website where you can customize your own and Jaeger-LeCoultre will make it for you. The brand also realized that if they created complex movements, the watch could have two dials. This Duoface is a perfect example of one of those pieces.

In this case Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to use each side as a different time zone. So this is a nice two timezone watch with the date. The idea is that you just flip over the watch to see the time zone elsewhere. One side has the time with subsidiary seconds dial and an open-date indicator. The other side has another time zone with a day/night indicator. That latter side would be use for what is often referred to as "home time." It makes for a useful travel watch, and as a benefit each side is aesthetically different giving you the option to "wear it light or dark."

Each dial is very much reminiscent of the Reverso's historical look. The brand is careful to ensure that detailing is impressive by giving the dials machine engraving and crisp printing. The black colored dial also has luminant for night viewing. The best part is that the overall Reverso look is not only highly art deco in style, but also very legible and useful. It is hard to not be a Reverso fan. The design is timeless, looks good on most people, and even after all this time the flipping case concept is still fun. Others have tried to replicate the idea of a double sided watch, but no one does it better than JLC.

This particular Grande Reverso Duoface watch has an 18k rose gold case. There are steel versions as well but I have to say that gold suits the Reverso very well. I know there are 18k white gold versions, but you might as well just get a steel one at that point. If you go gold, go rose or pink gold for a case like this. The color looks great with both the silvered and black colored dials. The blued steel hands on the silvered dial are classic - and Jaeger-LeCoultre even flame blues their hands in-house.

Pull the case to the side and you'll see the perlage decorated back plate. It adds a nicely machined look and frames the rest of the case well. On the wrist the watch is extremely comfortable and feel slimmer than it is. It is very interesting to me how rectangular-shaped watches have a very distinct feel on the wrist compared to round watches.

If you are a guy who likes modern sized watches I don't recommend going for a size any smaller than the Grande Reverso case. If it is still too small for you then check out a Squadra. Attached to the case is an alligator/crocodile strap. Of course it looks nice and I like how it is fitted directly to the case with very little gap. Funny how gaps between a strap and case keep some watches from looking their best. The deployant clasp on the strap is quite nice. It has a hidden fold-over deployant and what you see is just a very elegant rounded buckle piece. Very nice.

The majority of Reverso movements are manually wound. This has a lot to do with the space and style of the movement. Though there are a few automatic Reverso watches around. Jaeger-LeCoultre of course makes all of their own movements. The shame in a watch like this is that you can't see the movement. Even opening up the case is something that only an expert should do. That makes sense as there are hands on both sides. For those wanting a more "pure" horological experience there are watches in the Grande Reverso range very similar to this piece that have an exhibition style caseback on the second dial side of the watch.

Inside this Grande Reverso Duoface is a Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 986 manually wound movement. All features are controlled via the crown and it has a power reserve of about 48 hours. It is a slick movement and all I could have asked for in addition to the existing features would be a power reserve indicator. For me, I really like it when manually wound movements have those. Price for this excellent Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Duoface watch is $19,300 in 18k rose gold and about $10,200 in steel. It is a classic, and an easy decision to own.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre: Making Timepieces In The Heart Of Watch Country

admin — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 08:05:45 +0000

I am in Switzerland – in the Jura mountains to be exact – and it is snowing. As a California guy I don’t see much snow. In fact, the only times I have really seen snow in my life has been in Europe. The place looks like something out of a Christmas card. There is white covering the ground and lining the trees while quaint little buildings spew puffs of smoke out of their chimneys. It is all very charming in a sort of storybook way. It is also the perfect setting for watch making, and the winter window views of the men and women who work at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

I heard some interesting history which helps to explain at least part of why there are so many watch brands up here. The mostly agrarian culture (traditionally) didn’t have much to do during the long winters. So an indoor activity would have made the most sense. This area also has relatively easy to mine metal ore deposits which the people here have been using for a long time to make metal tools and things like musical instruments. One use for their tool making skills and available metal was watch production. So out here in the middle of nowhere, Switzerland, near the French border, is where a number of world-class watch brands are based. One of them is Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Anyone who is at all interested in watches knows the name - whether you call them JLC, Jaeger, or Jaeger-LeCoultre. It is even OK if you use the German or French pronunciation of “Jaeger.” The brand itself is a marriage of two brands (Jaeger and LeCoultre) which came together years ago. Since the early-mid 1900^th century they have been making watches in Le Sentier, and are one of the largest operations in the area today.

Around the corner from the building is a large parking lot for all the employee cars. There are a healthy number of people who work at the manufacture. While a few of them have desk jobs, most of these people are watch makers, parts makers, and machine operators. It is a factory in every sense of the word. They have everything from loud and oily machine halls to sanitized rooms where watch makers sit on the top floors enjoying the best natural light.

Exploring JLC you find everything from rows of organized horological desks to oven rooms where they bake screws to blue them. That latter operation is quite rare – to produce your own flame blued screws. In-house at the manufacture they do everything from assemble escapement forks to making all of their own cases. Walking through the machinery filled rooms is something any JLC fan should do. One of the most impressive things you need to see hands-on is the amount of industrial steps required to build a single watch from start to finish.

A case for example alone requires dozens of steps. Some people have the notion that with modern technology you just throw a chunk of metal into a fancy cutting machine and it comes out perfectly cut and polished – ready for action. The Reverso case is a great example of something that involves many parts and dozens of small operations. An operation is having that part placed in a special machine or process. Such operations range from being set in dedicated machines whose only purpose it to drill two small holes in the case - to having the lugs finished and polished in several steps by both machine and hand.

Jaeger-LeCoultre also of course makes their own movements – that is sort of the point of the place when it comes down to it. But the larger point is that they not only make their own movements, but they really make most all of the even tiniest parts, cases, and many of their hands and dials. Having everything under one (well several) roof really gives Jaeger-LeCoultre some special strengths as a brand. Strengths that you can probably see in their products.

That strength comes from a sense of integration and verticalization. When the same place houses the people that design the watches and the ones that build them, you can not only keep prices reasonable, but ensure a fluid cohesion in design and execution. That means Jaeger can not only build more complicated watches, but develop them faster. It also means that much of the time cases and movements are designed to go together very well.

Movement design and manufacturing is an extremely tedious and labor intensive process. It takes something like three years minimum to develop a new caliber from the ground up. The hardest part after the engineering is completed is building the tools and programming the machines that will actually build the parts. Special machines at Jaeger-LeCoultre combine human and robotic labor to carefully test parts for adherence to tolerances (which are tiny). It can take months just to develop the machinery that builds the parts needed to make movements.

As you should know, movement components are made with extremely precision. Those in the best movements are carefully hand-finished and decorated individually. Even Jaeger-LeCoultre's more entry-level (if you even want to call it that) timepieces are given hours of hands-on treatment during the manufacturing process. It is easy to take things like tiny pins and gears for granted until you see them being made, evaluated, tested, and polished before being hidden under other metal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has two special decoration departments. One is for engraving and another is for enameling. If you are interested in super detailed tiny artwork then enameling is for you. In-house artists create perfect paintings under microscopes that are oven-tempered to be permanent. They are gorgeous and seemingly impossible. Much of these and the engraving work is applied to Reverso watches. Many of the Reverso models have solid casebacks that can be flipped over. These surfaces are prime real estate for artistic customization. If you have the means, gets yourself a Reverso watch with a bespoke painting on it. you won't be dissappointed.

In addition to wrist watches Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to produce many versions of their famous Atmos clocks - and they do it right here in Le Sentier. The Atmos clock is an amazing device that is powered by changes in air temperature. Fluctuation of just one degree per day is enough to keep the clock going forever bascially. The Atmos department is a wonderland for collectors of the famous clocks. The department not only builds new clocks, but also tests them and services ones sent in for repairs. There are endless Atmos variants from all eras in rows of wood cases that show them off. It is very interesting to see the different clocks and understand the technology that in many ways does offer a truly perpetual mechanism. Atmos clocks are also strategically set up throughout the manufacture on walls to provide the time to employees.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is easily one of the most impressive watch manufactures that I have ever been to. The environment is both modern yet respectful of the brands' storied history. It is also able to do so without coming across as being a brand that too much rests on their laurels. Jaeger-LeCoultre is a connoisseur's brand that almost anyone can enjoy. You won't find a lot of lifestyle marketing for their products, but you will find a lot of classy, timeless watches and some of the coolest sport watches around. Jaeger-LeCoultre just really seems to make sense up here in the calm mountains - now I need to get back to civilization.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon Watch Hands-On

admin — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 08:01:39 +0000

As SIHH each year Jaeger-LeCoultre is on my short list of brands that I am very excited to see. Their booth isn't design by people who work at Universal Studios, and their watches are cool creations that real people might actually wear. This applies to both their reasonably priced pieces and more exotic fare like this new version of the Duometre called the Spherotourbillon. For us Americans I have removed the assortment of accents marks in the words which add in that Frenchy flavor you get when JLC themselves to pronounce the name for you.

As a tourbillon there are two main differences here that make the Spherotourbillon unique. It was hard to name this watch because there isn't anything really spherical about the tourbillon. What you have is a tourbillon that moves around in a special motion similar to that of those spotlight clubs rent to point into the night sky so that people flock there. It is a cool motion to watch in its gentle gyration. The tourbillon itself has a balance spring that isn't flat, but rather cylinder shaped. It looks very cool in operation and is similar to conical balance wheels that I have seen before. I got to check out the piece operating under a microscope and was pleasantly delighted.

Taking pictures of this watch proved irritating. Not because of the watch but because JLC has some protective plastic over the front and back that made it hard to focus and the piece not look at soon. So forgive the ill photography but the piece is quite lovely in person and on the wrist. The base movement is Jaeger-LeCoultre's dual-wing concept that uses two mainspring barrels. Each has a different purpose as one is meant to power the regulation system of the watch (the tourbillon in this case), and the other is meant to power the functionality of the watch. This concept helps reduce amplitude errors and is meant to make the watch more accurate over time.

The open tourbillon window looks like two wings to showcase the concept. On the rear of the watch you can clearly see the two barrels that are nicely labeled for your understanding. The movement and the dial are sort of separated into distinct zones. JLC is really a brand mostly run by watch makers and engineers - and it shows very much so in their design.

For the Duometre Tourbillon JLC created the Caliber 382 movement. It has a power reserve of 50 hours and is comprised of 460 parts. The movement finishing is beautiful and on part with what we have come to expect from not just high-end JLC, but most of their watches which exhibit great finishing and detailing.

Functionally the Caliber 382 has a lot of features. Note that this version is a prototype and some small details will be enhanced for the final retail version (for instance the font used for the date will be larger). The watch has an off-centered time display, the date, power reserve indicators for both barrels, a second time zone in 24 hour format, and a unique stop-seconds function.

That latter function uses a pusher at 2pm to stop and reset the subsidiary seconds display for the time. It is used for more precise setting of the time and works similar to how a chronograph resets itself. While not super necessary it is a cool function that will help prove that playing with the watch will be more interesting. The functions on the dial are easy to read but also attractive. You'll notice that the dial texture and color are what I would call egg shell.

For this watch JLC chose a 42mm wide case in 18k pink gold case. This feels like a proper size for a watch with this type of complication. JLC also has a range of popular Duometre style watch that are a bit smaller at 40.5mm wide. Even though this is an exotic watch it is comfortable on the wrist and very simple to read. Very few brands are able to accomplish this while also being technically exciting.

Jaeger-LeCoultre will produce the Duometre Spherotourbillon as a production model without limitation for likely a few years. I anticipate that a white gold version will also be available soon. Steel? Not so likely. Price for this special new watch will be about $200,000 when it is released a bit later this year. Certainly a highlight of SIHH 2012.

Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon -Technical specifications from JLC:
Movement
• Mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 382, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand, nickel silver bridges and mainplate
• 2 barrels
• 50-hour power reserve
• 460 parts
• 55 jewels
• 10.45 mm thick
• 33.70 mm in diameter

Sphérotourbillon
• 105 parts
• Tourbillon carriage: grade 5 titanium
• Total rotation speed: 30 seconds for a complete revolution
• 2 combined movements. Carriage axis rotation speed: 15 seconds for a complete revolution. Carriage rotation speed: 30 seconds for a complete revolution
• Carriage inclination: 20°
• Carriage diameter: 11.50 mm
• Carriage mass: 0.518 grams
• 14-carat gold balance with eccentric inertia blocks in 14-carat gold, inertia = 12.5 mg.cm2 , 21,600 vibrations per hour
• Cylindrical balance-spring

Functions
• Hours (travel time), minutes and small seconds with flyback function
• Power reserves (indications and movement)
• Pointer-type date display
• 24-hour reference time-zone
• Sphérotourbillon

Case
• 18-carat pink gold
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.1 mm (including the sapphire crystal)
• Polished and satin-brushed finish

• Domed glareproofed front and back sapphire crystals, hardness n°9
• Water resistance : 5 bars

Dial
• Crystalline grained
• pink gold appliques

Hands
• Hours and minutes: “leaf” type
• Small seconds: baton type with pear-shaped counterweight, blued steel

Crowns
• One crown to wind the watch, set the time (travel time-zone), adjust the date and adjust the travel time-zone
• One push-piece at 2 o’clock to activate the small seconds flyback mechanism

Strap
• Hand-sewn crocodile leather, 18-carat pink gold pin buckle

Reference:
• 605 25 20

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge Watch

admin — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 10:17:55 +0000

Now isn't that pretty? This is a special Milan Boutique edition of the newer Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin watch. The version with the limited "heritage" dial that is. According to Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1930's red (among other bright colors) were very popular for wrist watch dials. This model has a bright red lacquered dial. I don't know whether it is limited and if it is only available at the JLC Milan boutique - but it is a looker. Check out the vintage Reverso ad below as well.

Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge : technical specs

Movement
• mechanical hand-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• 21 jewels
• 2.94 mm thick
• 134 parts
• 45-hour power reserve
Functions
• hours, minutes
Dial
• red lacquered
• silver-toned hour-markers
Case
• steel
• 46 mm long
• 27.5 mm wide
• 7.27 mm thick
• “1000 Hours Control” indication on the caseback
• water resistance: 3 bar
Boutique edition

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs Watch Review

admin — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 08:07:32 +0000

Ask anyone interested in quality mechanical watches and they will tell you that Jaeger-LeCoultre makes a fine timepiece. Through its rich history, the brand has succeeded in almost universally having watch fans get excited about their movements and quality.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has achieved the difficult task of setting a high bar for itself mechanically. The next step after that was to capture the hearts of as much of the watch lover market as possible. That was the more difficult part. JLC gained a lot of popularity with their more formal iconic pieces such as the Reverso and classic Master Compressor. That wasn't enough for them. Several years ago Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to double its efforts in the popular high-end sport watch market as well.

Then the Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy SEALs watch was borne. The idea was that JLC would work closely with United States Navy SEAL soldiers to design and develop watches that would live up to their expectations in training and combat. The hoped result would be super cool watches with famous Jaeger-LeCoultre movements inside of them that every guy wanted to have. Especially since it was “performance tested and designed,” versus just made in a design studio. With a goal like that JLC again set the bar very high. The evolved Master Compressor watches in the Navy SEALs collection certainly do get a lot of attention, and are worth looking at whether you want to be like the Navy SEALs or not.

I didn’t have a lot of experience with this collection before the review, but after wearing this amazing watch for a while I am sold on the execution and really like this piece. I’ve talked with JLC a lot about their work with Navy SEALs and the feedback they get. The joke among collectors is always that no Navy SEALs guy wearing a JLC can afford one. That may be true, but at least Jaeger didn’t make them pay for the watches. Soldiers just get too many perks I tell you.

About a year or two ago there was a smaller 42mm wide version of the Master Compression Navy SEALs released that I discussed here. The reason for this smaller model was because it was demand by the SEALs themselves. That is amusing because most of the pieces are larger, with the chronograph I tested coming in a 46.3mm wide case – I love the big size. Though you all should know by now how much I appreciate larger watches.

46.3mm can wear either larger or small, in this case it wears comfortably and does not feel massive. This is not a small watch though. This version of the watch is in titanium with a gray PVD coating over the most brushed metal. Steel is used for parts of the outer bezel as well as Master Compressor style locks on the crown and pushers. Most of the bezel is dark gray matte ceramic with the numerals and markers sharply engraved in its surface. There is an applied steel triangle at the 60 minute marker on the bezel.

The mixture of steel, ceramic, and titanium feels satisfying. Jaeger has achieved a very aggressive look that is also legible, classy, and masculine. It is a very good execution of a modern sports watch with a Swiss level of refinement.

For this watch Jaeger-LeCoultre offers 1000 meters of water resistance. You rarely find chronograph watches with that much durability. Now I know why “Diver” is part of the name of the watch. The high level of water resistance is aided by the special crown and pusher lock system unique to Jaeger-LeCoultre. If you aren’t familiar with the system, here is how it works; you twist the lock around the crown or pusher to lock the piece or allow it to operate. This is in contrast to a screw-in system, though they functionally work is the same way. This system is however more convenient and you’ll end up appreciating it. The crown and pushers themselves are rubber coated.

Lovers of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s various Master Compressor watches from the last few years will feel right at home here. Though I dare to suggest that the dial is a bit more aggressive and legible in this model. The hands and hour markers are bold and offer with a high level of contrast compared to the dial. There is thick and bright lume all over the dial. The second time-zone hand is non-lumed. This is a bit of a trade-off design decision actually. Not luming it allows it to be visible, but not distracting when looking at the time. I have to say that overall I prefer this style of second time zone hand integration as opposed to one that visually competes with the main hour hand. What JLC did was brush the top of the hand to offer very good visibility when you are looking for it -though it doesn’t get in the way when you want to only look at the time. Going back to the lume for a moment, you’ll find that JLC uses different colors of lume for the hour and minute hand to enhance visibility is murky conditions.

In addition to the black and white tones JLC adds yellow as a trim color. You see it on the minute scale on the flange ring, at the tip of the chronograph seconds hands, and on the strap. While this is a super diver watch, the strap is meant for more terrestrial use. I recommend using something like a rubber strap if you are going to be using this piece underwater.

The strap on the watch is pretty slick and grew on me quickly. Jaeger-LeCoultre designed it from a few materials and colors. The inner lining is yellow while the outside is black. Most of the strap is calfskin leather. I like how the strap ends have give to them, but are also designed to curve with the shape of the case.

Over the dial is an AR coated domed sapphire crystal. There is of course glare because it is domed, but not much, and legibility is always high. In addition to the 12 hour chronograph is a second time-zone function. I don’t personally use the term GMT because that hand is a 12 hour, versus 24 hour hand. Though you’ll notice in the name of the watch that Jaeger does call it a “GMT” watch. There is a neat little feature that tells you whether it is AM or PM in the second time zone. This is done with small day/night indicator window under the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo under 12 o’clock. Nice system right? Overall the watch has the time, two time zones, the date, and chronograph. A lot of healthy functionality here, and in addition to being a good sports watch, it is a great traveler’s watch.

Inside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs is a Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house made and designed caliber 757 automatic movement. The watch contains two barrels with 65 hours of power reserve and it operates at 28,800 bph. The longer power reserve is a nice feature and I found it to be both accurate and easy to operate. Then again, it is a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. As an inherently fancy tool watch the Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy Seals does not disappoint. Aside from the special Navy SEALs engraved caseback, I didn’t find myself ever thinking about the Navy SEALs connection very much. It just wasn’t necessary as I was preoccupied with enjoying the watch. One of the things that I’ve know Jaeger to focus on is functionality much more so that some of their competitors. It feels a lot like a watch brand made by people who love and know watches.

As a larger sport watch the Master Compressor Navy SEALs collection of pieces aren’t cheap, but they are not ridiculous in price for what you get. They look good and work well, suitable for being a reliable daily wear. Many of them are limited editions such as this model which is limited to 500 pieces. Price is about $13,400 for this Jaeger-LeCoultre reference 178T471 watch.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso By Zep Watch

admin — Sat, 17 Sep 2011 07:17:36 +0000

I'll be really frank that I have no idea who or what Zep is. I mean I know a bit more now after researching and writing this article, but seeing his little smoke plume-haired character for the first time was a novel experience. I guess it is a Swiss/European thing. What... Tin Tin makes it international but Titeuf and Asterix are Euro only? Having said that, I do love cartoons and comics of all varieties. Something about hand-drawn things that really appeal to me.

Zep is the pseudonym of an artist who draws and writer a comic strip series known as Titeuf and is Swiss. I swear, I was not even sure the Swiss were capable of comics and humor until I saw this. Though it is all in French so I don't know what type of humor it is. Can anyone out there comment? I hear he is pretty popular.

Zep's real name is Philippe Chappuis, and recently worked with Jaeger-LeCoultre on this one-of-a-kind Zep watch. I think it is pretty cool.. Zep designed the dial and caseback engraving. There is also a special trick to the dial that I don't recall seeing before. See that think above the crown? That is actually a small wheel the you turn to close a metal curtain over the dial to hide or reveal it. I think that is pretty cool.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been experimenting with these mini metal curtains. Another watch of theirs (much higher-end) that also uses a curtain is this Reverso Repetition a Rideau watch. Though on that watch the curtain was external and was used to activate the minute repeater. In this case it is to hide the fact that the wear of the Reverso by Zep watch is a comics fan. Go into a business meeting and just turns the wheel a bit to hide all that. Not sure why though as I think the dial Zep created is quite attractive.

Like the scene in Charlie Chaplin's famous Modern Times, Zep's signature character is drawn stuck in gears. Though this time it isn't some industrial machine but rather a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. Come to think of it, this is the first ever cartoon watch movement I have ever seen. Note the floating letters that spell out "Reverso."

The dial is done in enamel and looks very pretty. Jaeger-LeCoultre used an 18k rose gold case to frame the art. This item is also apparently part of their larger 80th anniversary of the Reverso watch celebration. Sadly there will only be one such Reverso by Zep watch. Wish it was a limited edition at least. The watch will be offered via auction at the Artcurial auction house in Paris on November 29, 2011. So if you want it, you know where to go and bid.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Repetition Minutes a Rideau Watch Hands-On

admin — Sat, 14 May 2011 10:16:32 +0000

One of the more interesting high-complication watches for Jaeger-LeCoultre this year was the Reverso Répétition Minutes Ã Rideau. The oddly named watch (if I see more than one accent mark my eyes start to glaze over) actually just translates into minute repeater via curtain. Being a Reverso the watch has two dials, one of which is covered with a sliding metal curtain. Using your finger, you push the curtain aside to reveal one of the two watch dials. The curtain also activates the minute repeater complication.

What Jaeger-LeCoultre did in the the 'Reverso Curtain' is literally take two relatively thin movements and place them back to back. The images here show you each of them and how they fit together. There is one crown to control them both and they are manually wound. It sounds as though JLC considers them one movement and together they are called the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 944. The movement is hand assembled and decorated, and it looks pretty darn nice at that.

Both movements are presented via open face dials for you to view with the blued steel hour and minute hands generally seen in the Reverso range. The decor of the movements is done in a nice, traditional manner. JLC could have gone more modern with the design of the movements but I feel as though they kept it classic because this watch is part of the Reverso collection's 80th anniversary. This is also a good example of quasi art deco styling that you'll find in a lot of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches.

The Reverso watch case is in 18k white gold and is 35mm wide by 55mm tall. The curtain takes up a lot of it and actually wraps around much of the case. When moved out of the way on the front it moves over to cover the opposite watch dial. The action is smooth and I think the mini metal curtain is pretty neat. The effect of "revealing" the dial is a nice, poetic touch. If you were to wear the watch with the curtain side faced up, it would add a sense of mystery as people only see the look of the Venetian style blind on the face of the watch. I should note that the curtain is spring loaded so that the minute repeater side is only visible when you actively push the curtain out of the way.

The other side of the watch has a very nice series of engravings around the dial. They are almost art deco in appearance and start with clos du Paris pyramids on the movement plate itself. Further engravings surround the watch face and are quite interesting to see. I haven't seen anything quite like that before and find it attractive.

While the JLC Reverso Repetition Minutes a Rideau doesn't really break a lot of ground technically, it is a fun and complex watch strategically suited to appeal to collectors and fans of the Reverso collection. I like the watch a lot and I think JLC did a good job. Not sure about price but the production run will be limited to 75 pieces.

Tech specs from Jaeger-LeCoultre:

Movement:
- mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 944, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
- 21,600 vibrations per hour
- 340 parts
- 35-hour power reserve
- 35 jewels
- thickness: 5.89 millimeters, repeater module: 1.85 millimeters
- 2 barrels
- 1,000 hours chronometer test
Functions:
- hours and minutes on both sides
- minute repeater
Dial:
- open-worked front dial revealing the repeater mechanism with ruthenium coated bridges
- open-worked back dial revealing the bridges of the movement
Case:
- 18-carat white gold
- height: 55 millimeters
- width: 35 millimeters
- thickness: 12 millimeters
- 270 parts
- two sapphire crystals, hardness 9 out of 10
- water-resistance to 3 bar
Strap:
- alligator leather with 18-carat white gold pin buckle
Reference:
- Q2353520, 75-piece limited edition

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.