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Maitres du Temps Chapter One Round Watch

admin — Fri, 21 May 2010 07:09:29 +0000

Even some of Maitres du Temps' dream team of designers didn't think this could be done. How do you take a watch like the Chapter One with its top and bottom mounted cylinders and make it round? The tonneau shaped version is large enough as it is. You might be able to make it square, but round? It just didn't make sense. Still... they did it. Make the watch dial and central part of the case round, and extend the lug segments. Voila! Aside from the shape and style, the Chapter One Round watch has the same movement and functions as the standard Chapter One watch, which I wrote about initially here (more technical), and shared after a hands-on treatment here. Though the Chapter One Round is part of a more limited, limited edition of just 11 pieces, and more expensive than the standard Chapter One. It also retains my favorite part of the Chapter One watch, which are the cool security pushers with the 'slide-then push in' action.

Simply calling the watch a round version of the Chapter One doesn't really tell the full story. It dramatically changes the character of the Chapter One as well. I previously suggested that the Maitres du Temps Chapter One, in its highly ornate formal attire, looked as though it was destined to be in a museum where future generations could admire it. The Chapter One Round is more sporty, easier to read, and less aristocratic in poise. It is the athletic brother of the Chapter One. Maybe even a brute ofÂ brother. Like the Chapter One, the Chapter One Round is a big ol' watch. Try 59mm wide by 62mm tall on your wrist. It is 22mm thick at that. All that gold and other metal on your wrist and you'll get an arm bulky with muscle as well if you wear it around enough. That isn't to say the watch is unwearable, but if you are the type of person that whines about watches being too big or too heavy, I think a small vintage Cartier would be a better choice for you. I just had a vision of putting a small vintage Cartier next to the Chapter One Round and comparing the size and weight. Literally a shrew next to a bear. That would be amusing.

The watch dial on the Chapter One Round has most literally been 'rounded out.' It has a more mainstream look to it now, that comes with being easier to read. Lume on the hands make them contrast with the dial better, and the match with the hour markers. These replace Roman numeral hour markers on the original. While not as grand looking, the Chapter One Round's dial is easier to read. Which includes the time as well as the other functions, such as the date, GMT hand, and the mono-pusher chronograph. Don't forget the exposed tourbillon on the dial either. If the dial feels a tad lacking in emotion, the watch case certainly does not. You see designers Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin really shine here. To me, the design looks like a real melding of both of their personalities. I think the aluminum cylinder rollers for the moon phase and day of the week were integrated very nicely. Exaggerated angles and robust looking features all over the case give it a proud look. It is also curved to fit over your wrist.

Turn the watch over and you see a vision that reminds you of the Chapter One again. The hexagonal sapphire caseback window displays a familiar, and highly decorated manually wound Caliber SHC-02 mechanical movement (made by Christophe Claret). Given the greater diversity of angles, I think that the caseback as a whole on the Chapter One Round is more attractive than on the Chapter One. Chapter One Round case is in 18k rose gold, uses 96 parts (just in the case), and is hand finished. These extremely expensive to make watches are hard to make in quantities - which begins to explain the number of pieces in the limited edition. While the Chapter One was closer to $400,000 in price, the Chapter One Round goes for $495,000, and you better put your order in now if you want one.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Maitres du Temps Chapter One Watch Hands-On

admin — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 07:55:13 +0000

A little while ago I got the opportunity to have some hands-on time with the venerable Maitres du Temps Chapter One watch. The experience was incredible, as a timepiece like this really stands out above and beyond most other super luxury watches. It is really all the little things when taken together that are awe inspiring. Let me give you an example that you'd never know about unless you handled the watch yourself. It is clear that the Chapter One watch has many pushers. Aside from the crown (with its built-in monopusher for the chronograph), there are four of them on the case. Stylistically, the pushers are large and beautiful in gold. And they are meant to adjust complications on the watch such as the calendar, GMT hands, and moon phase. These are things that you want to be able to adjust easily if necessary, but you don't want to accidentally push them while the watch is on your wrist. The solution? A clever little security lever built into the button. Take a good look at the images of the pushers and you'll see that the vertically textured portion of it has about a millimeter of slide room. You need to push that lever over, and then push the pusher/button in. That way pressure on the pushers from other angles or without deliberate intent, won't allow them to go down. I noticed this awesome little touch right away, but never had any idea about it from just looking at the images. I was told that this complication was very difficult to industrialize. Meaning that it was a good idea, but really hard to execute. Still, it is something that Maitres du Temps kept in. Partly because it is a great idea, and partly because the watches are all part of a small limited edition. I think it really helps add character and value to watches valued at these prices.

A more full discussion of the technical merits (plus another) video for the Chapter One watch is available right here on aBlogtoRead.com as part of an earlier post. this article will be dedicated to experiencing the watch in my own hands.You can tell that I had two of the watch to check out. A white gold "tuxedo" version, as well as a rose gold version. There are other versions of the rose gold models with blue toned dials. Obviously the watch is very large. Most of the size is vertical, so expect the watch look like some luxurious cybernetic attachment to your wrist. Size is over 62mm tall, and almost 46mm wide. You can see the watches on two wrists in the photos (mine and the Maitres du Temps rep at Chatel, where I viewed the watches). Each of the watch elements oozes "well made." There is so much gold that it is almost overwhelming, and you start to think about the modern aristocrats who are eagerly hounding Maitres du Temps to sell them one of the watches. The polish work on the case is of the most complex I have ever seen. There are so many alternating surfaces of mirror polish and brushed finishing. Unlike say, a Rolex watch that has a great feel, but a mass produced feel - you get the distinct impression that someone toiled over a work bench for many hours getting all the little details on the exterior of the watch just right. The watch isn't about branding either. The "Maitres du Temps" name is small and elegantly wrapped around the chronograph minutes subdial. There is no logo on the crown, but rather some interesting design work. Chapter One is about the timepiece and the masters that went into the design.

The watch has four sapphire crystals. Three on the front, and a hexagonal shaped one on the back over the movement. They are attached in a nicely seamless manner, and feel more like windows that coverings. That is because the dial and features of the watch are so three dimensional, you just feel as though you are looking inside at something. I've always felt that Maitres du Temps does a great job aesthetically at designing the watches. Which is true, and makes sense. If you'll recall, the watches are the collective efforts of several watch making masters. The Chapter One watch combined the design, technical talents, and life work of Roger Dubuis, Christophe Claret, and Peter Speake-Marin. Each with their own unique, but equally impressive, watch making backgrounds. As such, I feel as though Maitres du Temps is one of the only watch brands that utilizes the "all star" approach by releasing creations that are the result of combined genius.

For the Chapter One watch, the movement is from the Christophe Claret house. He is known to make of the most beautiful, as well as complex watch movements in the world. He is also responsible for the Christophe Claret Dual Tow watch I discussed here. In the video I made, you can see the tourbillon escapement in action. The timepiece has many functions, including all the calendar information, chronograph, moonphase, and GMT hand. Still, they are laid out in a beautiful manner. You may not use the functions all the time, but instead of them cluttering up the design of the watch, they ARE the design of the watch. To press this point look at the top and bottom of the elongated tonneau case. The aluminum rollers there are part of the aesthetic look of the watch, and are also used fro the moon phase, and day of the week indicators.

While I mentioned this previously in other articles, I really like how the pushers on the watch are all labeled. Trust me that this is rare. Look at some complex Patek Phillipe watches and you'll find little pin pushers all around the case. None of them are labeled and pressing the wrong one results in much frustration. For the Maitres du Temps watches a different approach was taken. They wanted to be more user oriented, so you'll notice on the rear of the watch there are labels engraved into the gold case indicating what the pushers do. Such an obvious element to help in satisfactory ownership, but curiously absent from most other watches.

Looking into the movement you can see that is has an incredible amount of hand decoration. It just overflows with it. So much perlage and Cotes de Geneve polishing all over the place. It shines and glistens and is just cool to see. The Chapter One watch is manually wound tourbillon, while the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two is an automatic. Wait for a follow up article with a hands on look at the Chapter Two watch.The presentation of the timepiece from the personal message engraved on the back to the craftsman feel of the timepiece is worthy of the approx. $400,000 price.

A watch such as the Chapter One requires an impressive presentation box. Look in the image gallery below and you'll see not only the large and impressive box that the watch arrives in, but the specially made piece of luggage that the watch box is placed in. I was really excited about these elements of the watch presentation. Trust me that the box and leather bag themselves are very expensive to manufacture. Over all I am pleased to have had the chance to experience the Maitres du Temps Chapter One watch. Remember that they are part of a limited edition and not easy to find. I met with a Maitres du Temps rep to check these watches out at the watch store Chatel in Carmel-by-the-Sea, California. Soon I will do another hands-on look at the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two watch.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Maitres du Temps Watch Maker Family Together, Going Over Chapter Two Watch

admin — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 08:30:41 +0000

Putting together a watch like the Maitres du Temps Chapter One or Two is not an easy effort. You don't just do a quick drawing and get it over with or pick pieces from a parts bin. At the same time you can't just draw it up in a CAD program and then build it out of metal expecting a masterpiece. You need the accumulation of years of experienceÂ from people who have messed up enough times to know how to get it (making a nice watch) done right. This is the theme of Maitres du Temps, to bring watch making masters together to create special things.

I want you to consider something that I recently realized. Ever notice how lots of "new" brands focus on the "heritage" they bought from a long dead watch brand, or alternatively from some long dead watch maker? These brands use their own designers to emulate what was well known in the bast piggy-backing on that success. It is a good model. But the "new" brand is only as good as the current designers and the rest is just marketing. Then you have Maitres du Temps that does not try to create some fallacy of resurrecting a old brand. Instead, they rely on living legends who actually contribute to the watches. So the difference is that Maitres du Temps actually has watches designed by watch making masters rather than just having a brand or watch models named after them. It is an interesting point that I didn't consider in the past.

The images you see here were taken mostly at Baselworld 2009 and show how three master watch makers who collaborated for the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two watch actually "collaborate." Daniel Roth, Roger Dubuis, and Peter Speake-Marin are all part of the resulting Chapter Two watch for example. The first image show them with Maitres du Temps founder Steven Holtzman together. The little watch on the table there, that is the Chapter Two (most likely). Not exactly the best lighting or focus for the watch - but you get the idea.

I can't say how these gentlemen get along in person. Maybe they are the best of friends or merely tolerant of each other. However, if the accumulation of their efforts is any sign, the passion for watch making brings them together. See Daniel Roth looking through a loupe through the rear of one of the watches and Roger Dubuis doing the same below at one of the parts. Notice the plate with the Maitres du Temps logo engraved in it. Aside from the delicate logo engraving look at the perlage polish on the other surface. Notice how it is not exactly "even?" That is because it is hand done. Unlike cheaper perlage polishing, the "fancy stuff" is all done by hand. Master watch makers regularly inspect this work which is necessary to ensure conformity and "exactness" given the "uniqueness" of each piece as it is individually done. The engraving of the logo is too precise to be done by hand is likely the result of a CNC machine. This also goes for the engraved writing on the gold automatic rotor for the movement. There you also have a combined effort of hand engraved decoration with machine engraving (the wording).

The last image has Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin sitting at a table in a restaurant. While this no doubt occurred many times in a natural setting I am sure, here you have a film crew recording what became the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two watch corporate movie that can be viewed here. Notice the setting is in an actual restaurant. The challenge for the crew is to capture the personalities of the master watch makers as their "images" are a significant part of the Maitres du Temps watches. As I mentioned above, these aren't watches branded with these master watch makers in mind. Instead, the master watch makers are an actual part of the watch as they are the designers. I think it might be interesting to have (as a future component) the signatures of each of the master watch makers somewhere inside of the Maitres du Temps watches - something for them to consider to enhance the "master watch maker DNA" of the watch line (as there will be future "Chapters" in the Maitres du Temps watch collections).

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Maitres du Temps Chapter Two Watch Video From TheTimeTV

admin — Mon, 25 May 2009 07:56:40 +0000

Appreciating the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two watch gets even easier seeing stunning live video of the watch. Founder and owner Steven Holtzman discusses the luxury timepiece in this new video by aBlogtoRead.com content partner TheTimeTv.com. He takes a good approach to discussing the "volume" line (still only about 200 a year) of Maitres du Temps watches compared to the ultra exclusive Chapter One watch. The video is worth a view not only because of the discussion, but also because of the crafty video of the watch itself. You really get a good feel for the curves, the beauty, the finish, and the boldness of the dial. It keeps getting better looking each time I see it.

The Chapter Two watch will retail for $66,000 and features the 18 rose gold case (white gold will likely be available in the future as well) and automatic movement with triple date complication (big date, day of the week, month). I've written about the Chapter Two watch pretty extensively, and covered it here, which includes the original video of the watch by Maitres du Temps themselves. I still get excited seeing how decorated the stylized rotor is visible through the back of the watch.

I am getting the growing feeling that Maitres du Temps watches are timepieces for people who "want to feel their worth." It is a showy timepiece, but showy with substance. That is one of the best qualities of luxury watches (or simply those whose designs you love) - each time you look at your wrist you see what time it is and are reminded of the message subtext of the watch. . You can wear these as a watch to impress, and be satisfied if the only person in the world who notices if yourself because it is also lovely to look at. Though, that isn't exactly the case with the "large and in charge" Chapter One and Chapter Two watches - those say a lot about the wearer, and tend to speak for themselves as well. Basically what all people want (even if they don't admit it) in a watch.

Maitres du Temps Chapter Two Watch Page.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Maitres du Temps Chapter Two Watch: The Triple Date

admin — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 07:37:46 +0000

The second watch from the still new Maitres du Temps watch brand is the Chapter Two (which of course has followed the Chapter One). The term "triple date" comes from the fact that the calendar features, 1) the day, 2) date,Â and 3) month. Interestingly enough, the watch went from ultra complex, to something more simple and ‘live-with-able’ on a daily basis. While the Chapter One is a beautiful and decadent masterpiece of form and complexity, the Chapter Two is more akin to a nice looking watch that won’t intimidate people seeing you wear it as much - as I have always felt the Chapter One is more like a watch made for royalty. The same basic dimensions for the case are used, but somehow the look is totally different. A fact that really has to do with the dial looking different — more direct on function, and not as showy with the complications. See my discussion of the Maitres du Temps Chapter One watch here, which I did enjoy a great deal.

The Chapter One/Two watch cases are still some of the only tonneau shaped cases that I could see myself wearing. Typically I don’t like the barrel shape, but it is done so nicely here, I can’t help but want to wear one. It is important that the roller indicators on the top and bottom help serve to break up the long shape. So even though the watch is in a tonneau-shaped case, the face is basically a square, and the watch face is round. This mixture of shapes helps create a piece that does in fact look more like a work of functional art on your wrist rather than just a nice watch. Along those lines, you can see in the video that this watch is in fact the design result of collaborating watch making masters. If they don't know what they are doing when it comes to watch making - no one does.

The case of course is 18k red gold, with all the materials being of ultra-high quality. Size of the movement (calibre SHC01) itself is 45mm tall, 32mm wide, and 9mm thick - which is reasonable given the level complications. The case is big, but not too massive at 52mm tall, 42mm wide, and 18mm thick. It goes without saying that a watch like this enjoys stupendous craftsmanship with a in-house movement. More important is the dream team of watch making masters that collaborated on the design of this watch. This includes two people from the Chapter One design, Peter Speake Marin and Roger Dubuis. New for the team is Daniel Roth. A new member to the team will be added for the follow up watch next year, the Chapter Three.

One thing that I said about the Chapter One watch that is still true with the Chapter Two is the fact that the watch is both function and luxury oriented. For example, look at the rear of the watch were the two buttons are located to change the day and month — they are simple looking buttons that actually are labeled. You don’t see a lot of that on luxury watches. The fact that they are quick set buttons actually helps too, as opposed to putting everything into the crown, making adjustment of the watch a pain. Then you have the face of the watch itself. Clean, yet decorated, and features that have an emphasis on telling the time. The big date complication is nicely integrated, and the lack of separation between the windows helps remind you that two discs, instead of one are involved in telling the date. Then there of course is the luxury, such as the six sapphire crystals all over the watch making it easy to read and easy to appreciate.

Of course I love the fact that the watch is an automatic. I love a nicely decorated exhibition movement, but sometimes I really just want something that I don’t have to wind. The axe-like rotor is skillfully designed, but really there to make owning the watch easier. Decoration on the movement and dial abound. From texturing to guilloche engraving, everything is there to enhance the basic functionality, not distract from it. The big news about the Chapter One watch was the roller based moon phase and month, which are thankfully employed here, but as the day and month instead. That is a complication whose novelty won’t soon wear off for me. What an amazingly convenient complication, and the rollers themselves are constructed from black anodized aluminum. Attached to the watch is a black alligator strap with a matching gold deployment.

Having said all that I think the Maitres du Temps is a luxury watch made for a select few. Actually, I don’t need to say that, as that IS the case. It is not going to be a “design classic.” The watch is more akin to a luxury timepiece built for those of royal demeanor (as I seem to keep repeating, but it is true). You won’t see this watch in a ‘good watch design book’ 40 years from now. You are more likely to see it in a museum, or being auctioned for astronomical prices. Maitres du Temps is creating modern treasures for those worthy of passing down relics or ‘a legacy.’ There won’t be a collectors market, because there will be just a few collectors lucky and wealthy enough to own them. It is a watch for a different class of person. Not necessarily a better or more successful type, but those people to whom aristocracy is a status quo, and not just bygone status of another time, in a different world. Price for the Chapter Two watch will be less than the Chapter One as it is less complicated, and will be for $66,000.

Learn more about Maitres du Temps watches here:

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Classic Complication & Beauty In The Maitres du Temps Chapter One Watch

admin — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 17:30:34 +0000

New watch brands are appearing more frequently these days, and I am not sure what that means. Have existing brands run their course? Or does starting a new brand give a special value to a watch? The reality is that many brands have the same (or some of the same people) behind them. If you have a good enough team together, maybe it is worth just giving their creations a brand name. Maitres du Temps is just such a brand. Built by a watch distributor combining the aggregated efforts of modern watch masters such as Peter Speake-Marin, Roger Dubuis, and Christophe Claret. Most of whom have brands under their own names. So why combine efforts? The business is competitive, but there must be some allure behind putting great minds together. I haven't quite answered this question yet, but I am very impressed with the first offering from Maitres du Temps (Master of Time), simply titled, "Chapter One."

The press materials make a big to do about the "historical achievement" in the combination of these complications all in one watch. That is nice, but honestly it does not get my gears turning. What excites me are the beautiful looks of this watch. What better way to stare at (probably over $100,000) than at such a timeless piece of art. It could be because of the "art watch" kick I am on lately, but more likely this is just a extremely well conceived watch. I'd only knock the fact that it is a manually wound watch, but that does give you the ability to really appreciate the movement through the back.

For starers I will mention what this watch does have. The movement is large at over 50mm high itself. The watch case dimensions are 62.6mm high and 45.9mm wide. Inside you'll get a tourbillon, cylinder day and moonphase indicators, monopusher chronograph, retrograde date, and retrograde GMT. The case is gold (of course), and the strap is alligator. You can guess only the finest materials from around the globe (or Switzerland) are used. Right now, these are all trivial details to me as I am eager to discuss the looks of this stunning time teller.

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The gentlemen who designed this watch really put in their heart and souls. For this watch to be so complicated and yet still look so good is a feat in itself. Often times the more you throw in a design, the worse it ends up looking. This is not the case here, as the eye is drawn to the larger shapes instead of the smaller details. When the user requires information, you can easily access the relevant field of the watch, without distraction or visual impingement. The overall shape you first notice is the tonneau case so artful and tasteful. But then, you are are drawn to the almost cushion shape of the actual dial, and the two smaller windows with the moonphase and day, which are above and below. We are not used to this separation in a watch face. We timidly accept this brave move and accept the success with which the face has been adeptly broken up. New dimensions are added to this graceful machine we gaze at, and a respect develops for that which is complex beyond our own abilities. A trait which is certainly enhanced by the skeletonized movement view within the tourbillon window.

Like famous world architecture, this watch is built to be both functional and aesthetic. The people responsible for not only making but buying this watch can afford to guild their belongings. A practice that ended on a mass level during the time of industrialization. Once master craftsmen stopped being responsible for producing the goods we purchase, so did the love and care that went into producing such goods. Sure the average person can afford a great more many things, but everyone deserves at least a few things given the mark of mastery.

So is the case with the Chapter One, lines that flow together, combined with functionality and purpose. The watch's several functions are clear to read, and I take issue with anyone who does not have appreciation for at least the column wheel day indicator. One special little feature I love on this watch are the labels on the back telling you what the pushers do. It is realistic that you'd have to set this watch often (as it is manually wound). So Maitres du Temps takes the small effort necessary to label the pushers to alleviate frustration. As thorough user guides are about as rare as Timex watches are in the luxury watch world, it is nice to see some effort placed on the user experience.

I am charmed by the Chapter One, it is neither the most beautiful or complex watch ever made, but it is a superior unique piece which stands out in its attention to detail, beauty and class. I am not intimidated by this watch as may be the case for other timepieces in this price range ($395,000). I instead hold a certain respect for the effort and skill used to develop such a watch, as I respect the designers responsible for its inception and production.

More images of the Maitres du Temps Chapter One here.

Visit Maitres du Temps' home page here for product and purchase information.

See Maitres du Temps, Roger Dubuis, Claret, and Speake-Marin watches on eBay here.

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Roger Dubuis Sympathy S 37 Chronograph BP

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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.