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Montblanc Timewriter II Chronographe Bi-Frequence 1000 Watch Hands-On

admin — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 07:01:47 +0000

Precision chronographs seem to be on the mind of many watch makers this year. Tag Heuer certainly has their share of innovations and everyone seems to want to push forth into a territory people once thought of as "well if you need that kinda precision then get a digital watch." But I digress! Montblanc this year came out with a concept watch that competes with the Tag Heuer Mikrotimer 1/1000th of a second chronograph called the Timewriter II Chronograph Bi-Frequence 1000.

The Timewriter II Chronograph Bi-Frequence ('Bi-Frequency' - I don't know about you but I am certainly bi-frequency curious) 1000 is precise like the Tag Heuer but offers a totally different system of achieving the same level of precision. The guy who developed the system is a clever Spanish watch maker named Bartomeu Gomila - his name is right there on the dial. He explained the system to me like a pro, but like a novice I just nodded and smiled a lot. The basic idea is this: the oscillator in the Timewriter II operates at 50 hertz, but to measure 1/1000th of a second in the traditional way it would need to actually run at something close to 500 hertz. How it works is by having a system that "catches" the balance wheel more than just once each turn. Actually 50 times each turn of the wheel. The ability to move a gear 100 times in each full turn versus two is the trick to the system.

Like many high-speed chronograph watches, the Timewriter II has two balance wheels. One for the time running at 2.5 hertz, and another one used for the chronograph. 50 hertz is still fast, but is slow enough that Montblanc feels it can resist wear and tear for a good while if the chronograph is used a lot. The power reserve for the chronograph is a full 45 minutes. Which is actually a long time given the speed and power requirements of the system. The chronograph has a double column-wheel system and uses a pusher located on the top of the case to activate, stop, and reset the chronograph.

Reading the watch looks intimidating at first glance, but is actually rather logical and nicely mixed in with the skeletonized elements. Note that my images are of a prototype. So the finishing is not complete - especially on the rear of the movement (which is not polished like it will be). Overall the design is quite lovely. Time is read via hands in the center of the dial. The watch dial is actually quite small, but it is there in the middle. A sapphire crystal disc is used as the subsidiary seconds hand to the left of the time dial. To its right is a power reserve indicator for the chronograph.

The chronograph itself has a range of dials to display the time measurement. The lower subdial has two hands that indicate the elapsed minutes (up to 15 minutes) and the elapsed seconds. The central flying hand measures the 1/100th of a second units while another semi-linear hand under 12 o'clock indicates the 1/1000th unit. That latter hand only moves when the chronograph is stopped if I recall correctly.

The Timewriter II Chronographe Bi-Frequence 1000 will be a limited production watch - of just 36 pieces. The case is 47mm wide in 18k white gold. It might take a bit for the boys in Villeret to get it primed for commercial production. As I mentioned, the watch will be part of Montblanc's highest-end production of watches that are made in the Villeret facility. It is pretty darn cool and for the privilege to own this little number it will cost just a tad over $305,000.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Montblanc Watches Offically Available To Buy Online

admin — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 19:15:12 +0000

I was just informed by Montblanc that pretty much all Montblanc products are not available online for sale. I don't think their eCommerce site just launched but is still relatively new. I mention this for a few reason. First, it makes it easier for all people to get Montblanc watches, pens, and other products irrespective of where they live. It also is another win for the effort to sell more high-end items online.

When I first started doing this, it was for the most part considered totally taboo to sell luxury items online. Brands thought that it would cheapen their product and set up warnings online for people to never buy their watches or other goods via the internet. A few years later so much of that is changing, and it is being spearheaded by the major brands such as I have predicted. The little guys who aren't on board yet will follow suit. It is only a matter of time before you can "officially" buy Rolex and Patek Philippe watches online as well.

Montblanc joins fellow Richemont brand Cartier in offering much of their product range online. The pleasant looking eCommerce site is rather simple and easy to use. Gone is much of the annoying Flash animations and complex UI screens of the past. I am happy that they focused on ergonomics versus some convoluted theatrical eShop platform that might have been expected a few years ago. So check out their eShop if you are interested in Montblanc stuff, here is a direct link to viewing the Montblanc watch collection online.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph Watch Review

admin — Mon, 12 Sep 2011 07:07:13 +0000

Having mentioned this before, I will reiterate that the Montblanc Timewalker has been a watch that I've appreciated for a long time. For years the design and concept behind the Timewalker has kept me thinking "damn, that is a really nice watch... I seriously want one" That specific emotional connection isn't easy to reach, and only a handful of watch collections out there keep my interest for so long. For that reason I was more than happy to spend some quality time with this special timepiece that isn't only a Timewalker, but also a watch that contains a brand new and totally unique in-house movement made by Montblanc at their Le Locle manufacture in Switzerland.

Aside from the higher-end happenings over at Montblanc Villeret, this is the second in-house movement family the brand has offered for their higher-volume pieces. The first in-house Montblanc movement (the calibre R200 family) is used for the brand's now iconic Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph watch collection that I reviewed here. In that review I not only discussed the Nicolas Rieussec watch, but also showed you views of the Le Locle manufacture itself where many of the movements are produced.

The second in-house movement from Montblanc is the calibre MB LL100 automatic chronograph. It is a very clever multi-featured movement with a lot to love for both style and gadget fans. Montblanc chose the Timewalker collection to house the LL100 and the result is this beautiful new Timewalker TwinFly Chronograph.

For this review I have the limited edition version which is made in titanium with a DLC (diamond like carbon) coating. It is sporty and light with a very durable finish. Available as a limited edition of just 300 pieces, there is also the standard Timewalker TwinFly Chronograph for 2011 that is in steel and available on a bracelet or strap. In my opinion this titanium DLC model shows off the TwinFly look and feel perfectly. The case and dial tone match together seamlessly offering a design that I've not seen before in the Timewalker collection.

While this is a novel watch for Montblanc, the case is all Timewalker. That beautiful bowl shape is 43mm wide and is as comfortable as ever. Those familiar with Timewalker pieces will recognize the skeletonized lugs (which is continued onto the skeletonized ardillon buckle on the strap). Size feels very appropriate without being too large or small. Even though the case is not per se "slim," for some reason it feels like a slim watch - must be how the case hugs my wrist. One thing I would like to see improved in the future is water resistance. All Timewalker cases that I have seen are water resistant to 30 meters only, and I would ask Montblanc to perhaps push that to 100 meters in the future. Interesting on this DLC dark gray model is just how much the Montblanc white star logo on the crown is visible.

One of the things you need to know about the star logo is that it actually is a top to bottom view of a snow capped mountain. Which mountain? You guessed it, Montblanc. And what a perfect name being "white mountain" for having a snowy peak. The logo shows up again on the rotor of the movement and in the lug and buckle screws.

Is this a sport watch? It sort of feels that way. I don't that it is entirely a sport watch, but it feels on the sportier side - at least compared to other Timewalker pieces. Actually, come to think of it the entire Timewalker series rides this fine line between sport and business. Such watches are usually considered fancy casual watches that are good with jeans, and when you want to dress up a bit. Montblanc's Star watch collection is certainly more formal.

For the dial Montblanc chooses an extremely detailed face with lots going on. A bit three dimensional, the dial reveals more texture when seen in the right light. The hands are a nice size and the revolving Arabic numeral hour indicators are typical of the Timewalker collection. Then you have the three separate and symmetrical subdials for the various functions. Not seen very often, the date window is placed on the left side of the watch face.

Over the dial is a domed AR coated sapphire crystal that seems to disappear in some light - which is a good thing. Even will the busy dial I find that reading the time is rather simple and straight forward. So what is the calibre MB LL100 all about you ask? Let me begin to explain. In addition to the time and date the movement features a centrally mounted 60 minute chronograph, and has a subsidiary GMT dial. 2011 is really big on chronograph and GMT combinations that don't have large centrally mounted GMT hands. I have written about a number of these and two others that come to mind are Clerc and Carl F. Bucherer pieces. Of course Montblanc does it a bit differently and throws in a few neat extra features. One feature that I like is the flyback mechanism. Because the chronograph minute and hour hand are both centrally mounted, when you use the flyback feature (by pressing the RESET pusher before you stop the chronograph) both the minute and seconds chronograph hands "fly back" to the start. As two hands are doing this together you now understand where the "TwinFly" name comes from.

The GMT indicator is the upper subdial and is a welcome feature. Even with all the dial overlapping it isn't too hard to read. One unique aspect is that it starts at the bottom and not at the top ("0" hour is in the 6 o'clock position versus the 12 o'clock position). I simply love the chronograph. Centrally mounted chronographs are my new favorite complications these days. I find them much easier to read than when chronographs have separate dials for seconds and minutes. Actually they do use separate dials here, but one is just a smaller version of the other. The chronograph seconds uses the the main dial, whereas the chronograph minutes are told on a smaller central dial. Pardon me if that is confusing, but just look at the dial for a moment to understand what I mean.

Movement nerds such as myself have more things to be excited about in the MB LL100. In addition to being an automatic it has three days (72 hours) of power reserve via two barrels, and uses both a vertical clutch and column wheel for the chronograph. The vertical clutch helps it start and stop with more precision, and the column wheel is supposed to help the chronograph last longer over time. All good things because I promise you that you'll actually use the chronograph in this watch.

Montblanc really has a nice movement with the LL100 and I feel that using it in the Timewalker was a good decision. While I would not call Montblanc a sport watch brand, they do actually have some very cool, very capable sport watches that you don't hear about too much. I think that will change a bit with pieces like this Timewalker TwinFly Chronograph becoming more popular. Attached to the limited edition titanium Timewalker TwinFly Chronograph is a nice alligator strap, but the steel model is also available with a Timewalker bracelet. The watches not only live up to the Timewalker name but push the collection in a bold new direction. Price for the 300 piece limited edition model seen here is $11,820. The steel version goes from $7,660 - $7,920. Check them out where Montblanc watches are available.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe Watch

admin — Thu, 17 Mar 2011 08:11:52 +0000

I think I am in love, again. There isn't much "new" in this new watch from Montblanc's Villeret location manufacture - but it is a beautiful thing. This is going to be a top-of-the-line dream watch for many. Totally hand-made movement, world-class finishing and the romantic Minerva spirit that Montblanc was lucky enough to acquire. Checking it out for myself I can confirm it is a lovely piece -though intentionally made for smaller wrists.

The watch is the new for 2011 Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe. Using the existing in-house calibre MB13-21 manually wound column wheel chronograph movement with 60 hours of power reserve. The movement is product of generations of knowledge - so to say it is an existing design might be a good thing. Like I said, the guys (and girls) at Villeret sure know how to make this movement pretty. It is a monopusher style chronograph movement - so note the single pusher above the crown.

Available in 18k red or white gold, the watch has two available dials. My favorite is the above red gold and black with the red accent, but there is also a white dial to match the white gold case. The dial is gorgeous being pristine in detail and done in grand feu enamel. The indicators on the dial are fantastic and very functional. This timepiece design does not mess around trying to be a "mere luxury item." It is a high-end chronograph built with a vintage flavor in mind. The irony is that pulsometer (or pulsographe) watches started as relatively utilitarian items - helping medics on the battlefield take the pulse of soldiers. The watches then became popular for doctors and nurses. The chronograph scale is modified to tell the pulse based on starting the chronograph counting (in this case 30) heart beats, and then stopping the chronograph to read the pulse rate.

Only well-to-do doctors who didn't get their hands dirty much would have invested in solid gold watches of this style. So perhaps today this will be an ultimate status symbol for the medical professional who has it all. One issue I personally have with the watch is the size. While at 39mm wide, it isn't tiny, it is the smallest Villeret collection chronograph Montblanc has made. They justify this in their words, and make the target demographic really clear by saying, "the 39 mm case will no doubt also appeal to ladies and to Asian gents, whose wrists are often slimmer than those of Western men." That is the first time I have seen a brand just go out and say it. Way to go Montblanc for not beating around the bush.

Other Montblanc Villeret collection chronographs can be much larger, with sizes going up past 45mm I think. Shame that the Vintage Pulsograph isn't offered in a larger size as it is such a gorgeous timepieces design-wise. Plus, the functional design and proportions on the dial are perfect. Don't forget that for these high-end pieces, Montblanc uses a mother-of-pearl Montblanc star in the crown. The watches will be matched to alligator straps - and will be limited editions. 58 pieces in 18k red gold, and 58 pieces in 18k white gold.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Montblanc Villeret Tourbillon Bi-Cylindrique Watch

admin — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 21:22:58 +0000

Powerfully interesting, this new flagship watch for Montblanc's Villeret arm builds on the Tourbillon Mysterious of a few years ago. The "mystery" gives way to an open dial, and the tourbillon has double cylindrical balance springs in the tourbillon. Hence the name "Montblanc Villeret Tourbillon Bi-Cylindrique." The large tourbillon makes viewing the "double heart beat" more interesting. Why the two springs? As a means of reducing error in the regulation and thus attempting to boost accuracy. All that and it looks pretty nice.

Read my full article on the Montblanc Tourbillon Bi-Cylindrique at Haute Living here.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Automatic Watch Review

admin — Mon, 03 Jan 2011 08:02:49 +0000

This watch review is going to be a bit different than how I usually do them. Why? Because shortly before the review I was actually able to visit the manufacture making the movements of this watch. That experience offered me some special insight that allowed me to understand this timepiece more.

I know there is a lot of talk on the "manufacture" movement. In fact, a recent panel discussion I had withÂ fellow watch expert journalists allowed me to realize that there is no strict definition of "watch manufacture" or "manufacture movement." This definitional ambiguity hurts my ability to explain things properly, but let it be said that Montblanc makes the movement in each of the Nicolas Rieussec watches themselves. Of course there is some help from suppliers, but this is about as "in-house" a job as most people want it to be. My understanding is that the components of the movements are made at the Valfleurier facility in Buttes Switzerland. The pieces are then sent to Montblanc Le Locle for assembly and testing.

What fascinated me most about the Montblanc manufacture in Le Locle Switzerland was just how modern it was. I mean it is true that many watch manufactures feel like you are in some combo of a hospital and science lab, but the machinery available to the watch makers at the Le Locle facility was impressive. I have a larger feature length article on this topic that will come out soon - but in short, when it comes to the Nicolas Rieussec line of timepieces, Montblanc relies on a clever environment that combines the human approach of watch makers with the precision assistance of machines.

A few example of this synergy between man (or woman) and machine? Here are two. One of the images here is of a machine that robotically applies lubricant to designated spots in a watch. Such lubricant must be precisely applied with an exact amount. The more consistently applied the better. While a human assembles the movement, a robot is used to apply the lubricant better and with more precision in terms of amount than any human can do consistently. Another example is a machine that allows a watch maker to adjust the screws on a balance wheel and test the accuracy of the rate in real time. Basically the machine combines a magnifier, computer controlled screw driver, and a watch movement rate tester in one. While it is operated by a person, the machine makes it easy to adjust a traditional weighted balance wheel to its most precise weight distribution in the escapement assembly.

One of my favorite images here that illustrates the culture of the manufacture is the image of the watch tools with the computer mouse. If you look closely you'll also notice the presence of a Montblanc pen. Each work station gives watchmakers a computer terminal as well as watch making tools. While I have seen this before, it certainly isn't common.

With their movements all made in Switzerland by Montblanc, the Nicolas Rieussec collection currently consists of a few watches. My main focus here is on the Automatic Chronograph that also has a GMT and date complication (that I tested). The movement is known as the R200. The two manually wound variants (with slightly different functions) are the R100, R110, and R120 (a limited edition that used a silicium escapement). I am not going to go overboard with technical details, but the movements represent an interesting medium between the ultra-high end, and mass manufactured pieces.

The R200 has a lot of impressive features on paper. Notable to the watch nerd is that it has a column wheel based chronograph that uses a vertical clutch. These features offer more durability and precision when using the chronograph. There are very few European chronographs that feature both of these features. I should also note that some of Seiko's higher-end chronograph movements also feature column wheels and vertical clutches, as do pieces by brands such as Patek Philippe and (the former) Daniel Roth. Why all the focus on the chronograph? Well that is the new signature complication of Montblanc. The brand latched on to the complication for good reason (as well as to Mr. Nicolas Rieussec). "Chronograph" literally means "time writer." What is Montblanc known for? Yes, making pens. Sound too good to be true to have a watch in your collection that is a "time writer?" So the emphasis on this complication make perfect sense. Nicolas Rieussec is guy credited with "inventing the chronograph." Montblanc adopted him.

A while ago Rieussec created a device that looks like an early seismograph. It was a clock with a stop and start function that pulled a disc of paper along a smaller writing tip. This device was the first known "chronograph." It was meant to measure time in horse races and actually "wrote." The look of the chronograph on the watch is taken from this early device. Montblanc keeps replicas of them around the manufacture for inspiration. Each Nicolas Rieussec watch uses two discs that move along stationary hands to show the chronograph time (up to 30 minutes). These are also monopusher chronographs that use a single pusher to cycle through "start, stop, and reset" functions for the chronograph. The pusher is large, easy to find, and placed at the 5 o'clock position on the watch. Don't miss the exposed synthetic palette rubies exposed on the top of the chronograph dials.

This chronograph style is the signature look of the Nicolas Rieussec collection. The time is displayed on an off-centered dial at the top of the face. While small, Montblanc really helped that dial standout and be legible. It uses that fancy looking font that you'll find on most Montblanc Star watches. I really do love that font.

On the manually-wound versions of the Nicolas Rieussec, the time dial has a third hand used for the date. On the automatic, the third had is GMT hand. Working just like you would assume, the main time hour hand can be independently adjusted to alter the time when moving through time zones when traveling. To the left of the dial is a day/night indicator linked to the GMT hand. This useful complication help you know if it is day or night on your second timezone given that it is displayed on the 12, versus 24 hour scale. Who'd a though this would turn out to be such a useful travel watch? Both time zones share the minute hand. I was generally impressed by the GMT functionality of the watch and feels that the R200 movement's use of the third hand is better than having it be a date indicator.

While the left of the dial has the day/night indicator, the right has a date wheel. For symmetry Montblanc uses a window of a similar shape, but I don't much care for "open" date windows. It also does not look spectacular with the upper and lower date being partially under the dial - though that does actually help with keeping your focus on the actual date. While the windows that flank the time dial look nice, I have a feeling Montblanc might work to revise or polish the design in future generations of the watch.

Coming in a few tones, the dial of the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec is an interesting creature. It took me a while to warm up to it, but I am enjoying the design. While totally different than other collection Montblanc offers, the Nicolas Rieussec does share the brand's DNA nicely. Of course the crown has that lovely white Montblanc star, and the case is very much inspired by the Star collection. To create visual depth, the power part of the dial is partially "eclipsed" by a plate of Geneva stripe polished metal - plus, the dial looks to be made up of a few layers. The chronograph dials are covered with a sort of wish-bone like bridge that uses blued steel screws (blued steel is also used for some of the hands). This is a nice element, but I had one suggestion for Montblanc. While this might increase the cost a bit, I think it would be really welcome. The bridge is made from stamped steel. What if it could be made from milled and hand-polished steel?Â It would provide a wonderful visual cue and reminder that this is a hand-assembled watch. Perhaps in the future.

Let's visit the R200 movement again. It is an automatic version of the R100 with a few addition complications (as mentioned above). You can see the rotor placed over the movement, with the small Montblanc star shaped hole that is designed to pass right over the column wheel opening window. The movement has two mainspring barrels for a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement operates at 28,800bmp and can be adjusted to be very accurate. I saw a movement at the manufacture that was adjusted to operate within less than one second of deviation a day. I love that the movement combines modern technology and traditionalism. Like I said, it uses a free-weighted balance spring and column wheel, enjoys helps from highly sophisticated machinery in its assembly and manufacture.

The Nicolas Rieussec watch case is 43mm wide and 14.8mm tall. It isn't a small watch, but it does wear like a medium one. Its height is visually reduced by the highly curved lugs. Front and rear crystal are sapphire (with the front crystal having double AR coating), while it is water resistant to 30 meters.

Montblanc has assured me that their dedication to the Nicolas Rieussec collection is intense. The collection will receive more attention in the future, which is aided by the fact that the watch is a marketing success. One of the reasons for this is the pricing. While the watches aren't cheap they are more reasonable that you'd expect. The pieces come in gold, platinum, and steel. The gold models are in the $30,000 range. Not cheap, but Montblanc isn't asking for $50,000. Actually, their platinum version is about $50,000 - which in the luxury market isn't that much for a platinum watch. In steel the watch retails for about $9,200. It comes in a steel bracelet or an alligator strap (black or brown). I am told that soon Montblanc will develop a brand new metal bracelet for the Nicolas Rieussec collection.

Overall these are enjoyable watches. The Montblanc identity is a major positive, and I enjoy the visual design and functionality of the R200 movement. While unique in its looks, this is an easy watch to wear daily. Montblanc isn't making a mere collector's piece here. Designed to prevent boredom but maintain utility the Nicolas Rieussec watch collection is intended for all types of watch lovers to worn daily.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Montblanc Villeret Grand Chronographe Enamel Dial Watch

admin — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 19:15:46 +0000

Most people haven't followed Montblanc's ascension to a high-end watch maker like I have. The path they made from even making timepieces in the first place to where they are now is interesting, and only took about 10 years. Villeret 1858 collection watches are among their highest-end pieces and rely on Montblanc Villeret - which was formerly Minerva. This Grand Chronograph Enamel Dial is like an old-world pocket watch in wrist watch form. Even the back of it opens up like a pocket watch. The enamel dial (here in blue) is quite amazing, and at 47mm wide - this isn't your usual petite classy timepiece. Oh, and the movement decoration is really good.

See my full article on the Montblanc Villeret Grand Chronographe Enamel Dial watch here.

See Montblanc and Minerva watches on eBay here.

See Montblanc items on Amazon here.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Montblanc TimeWriter 1 Metamorphosis Watch Transforms

admin — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 07:45:15 +0000

There was a lot of excitement at Montblanc in Geneva for this watch. They only had one of themÂ at SIHH and it was in a case. Still a prototype but I got to check it out a bit. In a nutshell, you press down on a lever on the left side of the case and the watch dial magically transforms into something else. Not only does the look change, but more importantly the functions do as well. One face shows the time (regulator style withÂ retrograde minutes) and the date, while the second style is a chronograph.

In the included video you can wait through most of it or skip ahead near the end when they discuss and show some rather funtastic special effects of the TimeWriter 1 Metamorphosis watch. You not only get a good idea of how it works, but of how complex it is. They put all this effort into the video and it isn't even in English - the bastards. The TimeWriter watches will be a growing collection from Montblanc magical workshop in Villeret. The plan is to give the young and eager watch makers the ability to make crazy things. As such, the names of the two gentlemen who made this watch are on the dial. They are Johnny Girardin and Franck Orny. They needed to make their creation in Montblanc form, so you see the reverse teardrop style case that other Montblanc Villeret branded watches arrived in.

At 47mm wide and 15mm thick the watch is pretty small given its complexities. The specially made MBM16.29 manually wound movement has 567 parts and a power reserve of 55 hours. The case is done in 18k white gold and has a real nice finishing to it. Montblanc has come a long way and really asserted themselves as a serious powerhouse of complex mechanical expertise. So on that end the watch is pretty exciting. Style of the case and dial(s) doesn't really do it for me. I mean it is cool, but I don't exactly have any lust for it. A neat item I would gladly tote around, but it would be for the mechanics, not the design. The spirit of "be different" in the watch world when it comes to case and dial design isn't always a good thing. I would have preferred to see a modified version of one of Montblancs more attractive mainstream designs. To be honest the Timewriter 1 Metamorphosis gives me a bit of a headache after prolonged viewing. I've nick named it the Montblanc Seasickness.

So let's chat about what the watch does. The default view of the dial (see above) has a centrally mounted seconds hand and retrograde minute hands. The hours are told via the upper subsidiary dial. This is a variation on the regulator style dial, but with a retrograde hand. The lower part of the dial is a date indicator. Good luck reading that one. Over the date dial is a transparent bridge made out of synthetic sapphire. When you get bored of this, you can transform the watch into chronograph mode.

Montblanc was wise to use the metamorphosis name for the watch. While in a sense it does transform, much of the detail is internal. So while the timepiece change is anything but Kafkaesque it is more of a change of face and function than a serious transformation making you feel like you have something totally new on your wrist. The process of changing the watch is longer than you would expect. First you need to press the monopusher chronograph button in the crown, then slide the lever on the left side of the case. The process actually takes about 15 seconds. So much of what you get is watching the process take action. There are two hidden plates in the watch that act like a double scissors. These "close" and the upper and lower dials are covered over with grayish plates. At the same time the lower dial actually moves down like a little elevator. Internally the watch is going mad with gears and changes to make sure everything works properly. This is not a sport watch my friends, something that you are wise to be delicate with.

After the change is complete the Arabic numeral dial for the hours is now replaced with Roman numerals. This dial and the minute hand still tell the time. The seconds hand is now a seconds hand for the chronograph, and the date display is now used for the chronograph minutes - which is quirkily labeled 1-31 for obvious reasons. I must admit that the chronograph minutes dial gives me the biggest problem visually as it feels like an Escher painting to my eyes. The chronograph is operated of course by the monopusher button in the crown.

Don't forget that while the watch is not showing the date, the movement recalls it, as well as the seconds for the time. This is all part of the mechanical wonder. As a novelty the Montblanc TimeWriter 1 Metamorphosis is cool. The watch however is a gimmick, a fun and complex gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. There is almost no utility in the complication, and I have a feeling it is quite fragile. Like the image I posted of MASK (from the 80's cartoon about vehicles that transform in to arguably less useful vehicles), the watch has a lot of initial amusement but remains a toy. Only the Transformers where able to hold our imagination's attention for decades. Plus, you can have all the same functionality that the TimeWriter 1 Metamorphosis has in a Valjoux 7750 movement (and them some). The 28 people who invest in this limited edition watch are doing so for the sheer addictiveness some uber-wealthy people have for a "no one else can do this"Â pieces of machinery. Buying that feeling knowing that no one else is going to make just such a watch. I really don't think anyone else will have a desire to do so. The mechanical complexity of the Metamorphosis can't be denied, but the lasting appeal of its exclusiveness might.

See Montblanc and Minerva watches on eBay here.

See Montblanc items on Amazon here.

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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Montblanc Grand Tourbillon Heures Mysterieuses Is Like A Watch In A Tuxedo ...

Montblanc Grand Tourbillon Heures Mysterieuses Is Like A Watch In A Tuxedo

admin — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 23:05:20 +0000

In Villeret Montblanc is feeling very proud of itself. It has gone from making pens, to being a preeminent watch maker. The recent acquisition of popular family owned (previously) Minerva gained Montblanc that ability to tout in-house movements. So now their watches look nice and have lots of bragging rights. While I enjoy some Montblanc watch designs more than others, I can't argue that any of their recent releases are anything less than elegant and well conceived.

In celebration of Minerva turning 150 years old, we have the Montblanc Grand Tourbillon Heures Mysterieuses (that is the most uncomfortable way of writing mysterious if English is your native tongue!). Inside is an in-house Minerva movement (of course) caliber MBM65.60 with a manual-wind 1 minute tourbillon (the tourbillon functions as the seconds counter and makes a full revolution each minute), 26 jewels beating at 18,000 bph, and with a power reserve of 50 hours. Not too shabby, and it is nice to look at. The tourbillon is pretty basic by today's standards, but the bridge is nice to look at and for me, functions as the bow-tie of this tuxedo look.

So look at the 47mm wide by 14.4mm thick case done in platinum (one piece) or white gold (limited edition), and tell me that it does not look like a watch in a tuxedo. The textured black area resembles a vest tapering in around a white-ish shirt with a big bow-tie at the top. That is just what I see when I look at it. I like how the watch is not too heavy on the branding, but the Montblanc name is much more prominent than "Minerva" which is faintly located off to the upper corner. At least it says Minerva on the Minerva anniversary watch right? The fact that they are raised and appear to float over a mirror polished surfaces as style to this little trick.

So lets get to the Mysterieuses part. Basically, when the word 'mystery' or any synonym for it is placed in a watch name, it means there is something that moves the hands that is hidden. That is all. Here, the central points of the hands don't appear to be attached to anything. They aren't. The hands are actually attached to the rings that they appear to revolve around. Thus creating the illusion that the hands are moving on their own. See what I mean? You can't help but appreciate the sober festive look of this solid gold dialed watch. So much emphasis is placed on the tourbillon, it is almost amusing; as though Montblanc is shouting "yes we can!" (build a tourbillon that is). A few years ago it used to be a big feat for a watch maker to build an in-house tourbillon. Now it is almost an obligation. Here is Montblanc traveling down this necessary road.

See Montblanc and Minerva watches on eBay here.

See Montblanc items on Amazon here.

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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.