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Vintage Omega Marine Chronometer Watch Hands-On

admin — Thu, 05 Jan 2012 08:06:35 +0000

There are times that I wish I could have experienced the watch industry in the 1970s. Oh what an interesting time. Quartz regulated movements debuted in the late 1960s and was still an extremely expensive novelty which everyone was interested in, but no one quite knew what to do with. Mechanical watches still reigned supreme, and the era saw the creation of the modern sports watch as we know it. It was also a time of extreme optimism and experimentation from a design perspective. The world's interest in space travel and futurism was at an all-time high, and product makers began to have more and more materials to play with. It was a good time marred by some ugly designs and outrageous ideas, but the overall sentiment seemed to be positive.

It was not until the 1980s when quartz-based timepieces became cheap enough to put a serious threat to the mechanical Swiss watch industry. Even during the late 1970s many Swiss watch makers saw it wise to totally abandon mechanical watches. They wanted their entire productions to be quartz. At the time it was thought by many people that mechanical watches were a thing of the past. I learned much of this traveling to Switzerland and listening to people discuss exactly what was going on and what they felt at the time. We now know that quartz and mechanical watches can coexist, but that is actually a modern concept.

Anyhow, going back to the late 1960s and early 1970s, the largest Swiss brands were heavily invested in making their own quartz movements. These movements were anything but mass-produced and cheap. Often times requiring as much effort as a mechanical watch to assemble, these accurate electronic wonders were considered luxury items. You'll probably never again see a Rolex watch proudly labeled "Quartz" on the dial. The same goes for Omega - who was considered by many to be a pioneer in quartz movement development.

In the late 1960s the Swiss and Japanese were aggressively trying to beat each other when it came to releasing the first quartz wrist watch. Seiko narrowly beat out the Swiss, and the Swiss followed up with a bevy of interesting high-end quartz models during the late 1960s and mostly into the 1970s. A very special one is the Omega Marine Chronometer.

There are a few people online how have laid out the technical history of the Omega Marine Chronometer better than I will ever be able to do (for example you can watch this YouTube video with images of the Marine Chronometer and a soundtrack that sounds like the guy wants to make love to the watch). I believe that it officially debuted for sale in 1974 and was available for a few years with a couple of movements variations all based on the quartz caliber 1500 series that was made by Omega.

They called these movements "Megaquartz," because of the frequency at which they ran was 2.4 MHz (mega hertz). These were also know as Megaquartz 2400 movements. One hertz is one cycle per second, so 2.4MHz is 2,400,000 cycles per second. This is extremely fast - and the faster a movement can operate the more accurate it will be. To put that into comparison, a standard quartz watch runs at about 32,768 hertz, and an average mechanical wrist watch movement such as the ubiquitous ETA 2824 automatic runs at 4 hertz. Can you notice how big those differences are?

I don't know the precise accuracy rating of the Omega caliber 1500 megaquartz movements, but it was something like one second each 1000 years. To this day it probably remains the most accurate quartz movement every made. Something Omega pads itself on the back for accomplishing, but it does so quietly as the brand's direction today is heavily on mechanical watches. The irony - that Omega themselves laugh about - is that the down-side of the Omega Marine Chronometer was its battery life. The movement sucked power such that a battery change was necessary each six months or so. That's not horrible in today's setting when the watch can be reset easily. But if you wanted the watch to be reliable for serious scientific purposes "out in the field," you'd need at least two of them running, and you'd need to stagger the battery life as well as stockpile batteries. Just a fun fact about the caliber 1500 series movements.

The 1500 series came in a few variants and were designed to fit into the rectangular case of the Marine Chronometer. I am still not sure why it has the "Constellation" name of the dial. New products tend to get complex branding I find. The design of the dial interests me. It looks like something plucked from an instrument panel. Imagine a series of gauges each with a different label. Here you are looking at the "Marine Chronometer" instrument. And what is it? Well an Omega Constellation with a sweet sounding high-tech movement. This watch thematically like the Bell & Ross BR01, in that it attempts place something from an instrument panel on your wrist. They even both have four bezel screws.

Reading the dial is simple as it is designed to be very minimalistic and devoid of excess. The round dial lack frills and is very utilitarian. Perhaps almost too much by some standards. Still, given the technology and purpose behind the movement I am glad that the face looks like a wall clock. The date is neatly tucked-in at six o'clock. Omega wanted its logo and name in large print on the face - now that is being proud of a watch! The large "Marine Chronometer" label on the top of the dial is sort of silly, especially looking at it in hindsight. The title isn't necessary, but it is a charming quirk about the design and the concept of the watch overall.

My understanding is that Omega only released one case style for the watch which was in steel with a 14k gold bezel and serial number plaque. The case is about 49mm tall and 32.5mm wide. It is 12mm thick and overall feels stately but not massive on the wrist. Retro by today's standards a bit, the tapered single-link style bracelet and overall design does endure well in my opinion. I find it interesting that the serial number is so prominently displayed on the case. Another design feature intent on making it feel more like an important instrument rather than formal timepiece. This was a serious geek watch for its time.

Back in the mid 1970s the Omega Marine Chronometer was priced very high at $1,850. It was of course the only watch of its kind and pretty high-tech. Some more info on the Marine Chronometer can be found here as chronicled by the late Omega-expert Chuck Maddox. Today Omega Marine Chronometer watches are still out there. They aren't terribly expensive, but do represent an investment in terms of adding one to your collection. I personally am really drawn to this unique watch and would gladly shell out to own one. It helps that I like how it looks on my wrist as well. Thanks to the good people at the Omega Museum for letting me play with it.

EXTREM RARE OMEGA MARINE CHRONOMETER F 24 MHZ CAL 1516

US $3,999.99

OMEGA 1516 MEGAQUARTZ f24MHz MARINE CHRONOMETER c1976 Complete with Papers

US $890.85

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Watch What-If: Omega Speedmaster

admin — Fri, 30 Dec 2011 19:20:28 +0000

"Watch What-If" is a special column on aBlogtoRead.com that asks the playful question "what if an iconic watch you know and love was offered in a different style?" The idea embraces a good timepiece's core design and has fun by offering new colors and material concepts to stimulate your senses. These ideas may be provocative, artistic, or just plain silly. This is about fun, Photoshop, and the celebration of wrist watch design and experimentation. The original design we work off will always be at the bottom of the article. The designs are brought to life by Beau Hudspeth who does the artwork and concepting after he and I choose the models and styles to focus on. These special design experiments are extremely time consuming and labor intensive but we hope you enjoy the results. Ideas and comments are more than welcome. Enough response may even lead to a round two of design of the same watch - so please comment below. You are also encouraged to suggest watches that make it into the Watch What-If section here on aBlogtoRead.com.

Watch What-Iffed: Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition Apollo Soyuz Ref. 311.30.42.30.99.001

The original:

Art & Concepting in collaboration with Beau Hudspeth.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Vote For Omega Fan Photo Giveaway Winners

admin — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 19:28:15 +0000

With the Omega "stuff" for Omega watch lovers giveaway now over, I've decided to choose a few finalists and let you the readers choose the three winners. Why? Well I simply can't choose a first, second, and third place winner because aBlogtoRead.com received too many good entries.

Voting is simple. Each of the 11 images below has an associated number that goes with it. Choose just one that you think is best and vote in the poll box below. The photos with the top three amounts of votes will get first, second, and third place prizes respectively. You can click above to the original Omega stuff for Omega watch lovers giveaway page to recall what the winners will get.

Take Our Poll

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Watch Lovers, Keep Submitting Your Pictures

admin — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 23:16:12 +0000

To participate in the Omega fan giveaway (see post here), keep submitting those pictures with your Omgea watch. See the post in the aforementioned URL for detail and to enter.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Giveaway Contest For Omega Watch Lovers

admin — Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:43:45 +0000

Are you an Omega watch fan? Have a favorite Omega timepiece that you are proud of? Well, in collaboration with Omega watches I have a giveaway opportunity for you. I call this the Omega fan appreciation contest, and we have three sets of Omega goodies to giveaway.

There will be be three winners: a first, second, and third place winner. Each will receive a progressively better set of cool Omega branded stuff. To enter, you will need to submit a photograph or video of you and your favorite Omega watch. I don't care what you are doing in the picture or video, but you should be comfortable with other people seeing it.

You will be judged on picture or video quality, and how much of a fan it shows that you are. How do you submit your video or picture? Just e-mail them to "omegacontest @ ablogtoread.com" (don't forget to remove the spaces in the e-mail address). If you are making a video don't send the full video file! Upload it it YouTube or Vimeo and then e-mail the link to that video location. If you have questions you can comment below.

The giveaway will run until December 15th, 2011, so enter before then.

Now that you know how to enter lets talk about what you can win:

Third Place Winner:

1 red colored Omega baseball cap
1 fancy Omega ball-point pen
1 Omega branded magnifying glass loupe

Second Place Winner:

1 red colored Omega baseball cap
1 fancy Omega ball-point pen
1 Omega branded magnifying loupe
1 Omega branded full mobile phone case protector
1 Omega branded iPad travel case

First Place Winner:

1 red colored Omega baseball cap
1 fancy Omega ball-point pen
1 Omega branded magnifying loupe
1 Omega branded full mobile phone case protector
1 Omega branded iPad travel case
1 Omega & Olympics branded black fabric briefcase

Good luck to all the Omega watch lovers and aBlogtoRead.com readers who participate.

A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must provide with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached when you enter. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. If you are contacted as a winner you have 24 hours to respond with your shipping details. This giveaway is open to anyone in the world, but shipping costs are ONLY included if your shipping address is in the United States. aBlogtoRead.com shall have the sole decision of the winning selections. All entries made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.

Good luck, and thanks to Omega watches and Omega watch fans!

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Collecting Vintage Omega Watches

admin — Tue, 29 Nov 2011 08:09:40 +0000

Introduction

A little while back I wrote a defense (or justification, depending on how you look at it) of vintage watch collecting for aBlogtoRead. Following up on that, I’d like to share a bit more of my passion for all timekeepers vintage by presenting a “state of the market” article. My personal interest, and the bulk of my collection, is in Omegas made before the 1980s, so I shall cover that which I know best.

[editor's note: To complement Jason's article and selected images, I am also including pictures I took while at the Omega watch Museum in Switzerland. Among those images you'll find some great shots of vintage Omega timepieces, as well as representations of models that are discussed below. I hope you enjoy them as much as we do.]

I’ve long felt that Omega, while well known and very respected, has been a relatively under appreciated brand among vintage collectors. That’s not to say they aren’t popular as collectibles, just that they are undervalued. Vintage Omegas are exceptionally good timepieces that are reasonably priced in today’s market; even the most valuable and rare Omegas won’t compete with the likes of Rolex and Patek, even if they are comparable in quality. While I feel this is a real shame, considering how good these watches are, it does mean that collectors have access to a wide variety of interesting pieces for reasonable money. It’s also a great introductory brand for a budding collector – they are easy to find, easy to service and get parts for, are reliable and well made, and generally nice watches to wear on a daily basis.

The Brand and the History

Omega began as an assembly “Comptoir” in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland. Louis Brandt founded the company in 1848 as a workshop that assembled pocketwatches and distributed them in several countries. The name Omega didn’t come about until 1894, by which time Louis’ sons Cesar and Louis-Paul had converted the workshop into a small manufacture in Bienne. Omega wasn’t a brand, initially; it was a movement calibre – a pendant-wound pocketwatch calibre that utilized streamlined construction techniques and interchangeable parts for a reliable and easy-to-service mass-produced design. Soon Omega calibres became a worldwide success, so much so that all watches produced by the company were branded Omega from 1903 onward. The Omega calibre was so successful and well designed that it was produced (for pocketwatches) until 1967!

Over the years Omega has been known as a brand that produced reliable and accurate watches for a wide market. In the early decades they were leaders in the production of class-winning chronometers, in both pocket and wristwatch calibres. Before the abolition of competition in chronometer trials in the 1970s, Omega was a record holder in several categories, and was one of the largest producers of mass-produced series chronometer movements in the world (until Rolex took that crown). They were also well known for being the official Olympic timekeeper from 1932 onward, and created many innovative sports timing mechanisms over the decades.

The most significant and best-known Omega models emerged in the 1950s – the Constellation chronometers, the Speedmaster chronographs, and the Seamaster dive watches. Today these three models are the top level of Omega collecting. The company’s real claim to fame was the selection of the Speedmaster chronograph by NASA for use in the space program in 1965 after a series of grueling tests. In 1969 it became the first watch on the Moon, worn by Buzz Aldrin on the surface (Neil Armstrong left his in the lander as a backup clock, a testament to how much faith they put in the Omega). Since 1969 the Speedmaster Professional (as it became known after it was selected by NASA) has become the best known, most collectible and most desirable Omega out there, thanks in no small part to Omega’s continuing marketing touting their participation in the Apollo landings (and countless limited editions to honor the fact).

Significant Models

Up until the 1950s the most popular Omegas featured the legendary 30mm hand-wound calibres. 30mm denotes the size of the movement, not the case. Produced in the millions, the 30mms (30T2 and 2XX series calibres being the most common) were robust, reliable, accurate, and easy to service. They formed a solid base for chronometer modifications as well, and today chronometer variants (with unique balance assemblies, indexes, and finely-finished gears that set them apart from base calibres) are the most desirable. Any 30mm is worth something. They were produced in cases that ranged from 32-33mm up to a pretty sizable 38mm (which looks even bigger due to the expansive dials and thin bezels). The larger sizes command a premium and are a bit harder to find, but are worth seeking out – they are elegant dress watches that are big enough to not feel out of place in a sea of 40mm plus designs. While fairly valuable, the 30mm variants are not that rare – again, they made millions of them over the decades. Finding a good, original one is not that difficult, but beware of scores of dodgy refinished dials and worn-out cases. It’s also a movement that is prone to neglect as it can run for years without attention, which means many will need a service pronto.

From the 1950s onward automatic calibres became popular, starting with the famous “bumper” calibres. Early automatics had a rotor that rotated a partial circle, not a full rotation, and were buffered by a blocking bridge with small springs on either side. When the rotor swings back and forth it bounces off the springs, hence “bumper”. This “Harwood” system, named for the inventor who developed it, was used by many brands until the 1960s due to the fact that Rolex held the main patents on the 360-degree rotor system. The most famous of the bumpers was the first generation Seamaster introduced for the 1948 London Olympics – at the time it was considered a sporty watch, with thick lugs and a water resistant case. Today it would be considered a dress watch. Generally they are not as collectible as earlier 30mms but have their own following. Up until the 1970s Seamasters were generally dressy designs, more akin to the modern Aqua Terra than the Seamaster Professional, with a few notable exceptions.

In 1957 the Seamaster 300 was released, a proper dive watch with a robust automatic movement (5XX series calibres), highly water resistant case (200 meters, despite what the “300” moniker suggests), highly legible luminescent dial and hands, and a rotating graduated bezel. It was a competitor to the Rolex Submariner, though it never achieved nearly as much success or collectibility. Early one had a narrow bezel, later models sported a bigger version with a luminescent acrylic insert. Today it is a popular but rather uncommon collectible, and highly wearable – it clocks in at a very modern 42mm, which was gigantic for a watch of this era, and considerably bigger than the 39-40mm Submariner. These command higher than average prices due to their rarity and style, but they never come close to Rolex territory, so it’s an affordable choice for a sexy vintage diver that is big enough to wear everyday. Speaking of big, there is also the Ploprof Seamaster 600 (not to be confused with the Seamaster 600 dress watch) that has found new popularity since it was re-released by Omega several years ago. It’s a massive, purpose-built diver with a one-piece case and locking bezel with a button release. Some smaller (but still sizable) divers were released following the Ploprof, including the “SHOM” models. These have a dedicated following, but prices remain accessible. Fun fact – the Seamaster Planet Ocean is a recreation of the first generation 1957 Seamaster 300, right down to the broadarrow hands, Arabic numerals, and thin bezel insert.

Also released in 1957 was the Speedmaster chronograph, the king of vintage Omegas. The first generation (called “broad arrow” due to its wide arrow-tipped hands) had an engraved metal tachymetre bezel and a 40mm “straight lug” case; by the 1960s they had adopted the style we recognize today (because it is still in production after over 50 years), with white-painted baton hands, black printed tachymetre insert, and a 42mm case with crown guards and twisted lyre lugs. From 1957 to 1968 they utilized the 321-calibre movement, a column-wheel chronograph based on a Lemania design; from 1968 to present they have used the 861-calibre (later 1861) which has a shuttle-cam system and more refined design. The 321 models are the most desirable, more so if they are straight-lug or broad-arrow models. 861s are far more common and make a bargain purchase for a vintage hand-wound chronograph, often coming up for under 2 grand for a good example. You couldn’t buy a BEZEL for an equivalent Rolex Daytona at that price, and the Daytona is a downright puny 37mm. Everyone needs to have a Speedmaster in their collection at some point, it is one of the best classic chronographs out there and its history in the space program means it is a great conversation starter. This watch was worn on the MOON dontchaknow…

Yet another 1957 release – the Railmaster anti-magnetic models. Short lived and never particularly popular, the Railmaster has become a pretty serious collectible in recent years. Like any good collectible, it was a flop and was produced in limited numbers. The Railmaster features a manual wind 2XX calibre (30mm) movement encased in a Faraday cage of soft iron, with a soft iron dial as well, to shield it from heavy magnetic fields. It’s a concept that was also used by IWC with the Ingenieur, and Rolex with the Milgauss. The Railmaster shared styling with the Ranchero, featuring a black luminescent dial with broad-arrow hands on most models. It came in a 36mm stainless steel case. Expect to pay big money for a clean, original Railmaster – anywhere from $7000 up. Some have cleared $10 or even $20K at auction.

Two significant models that are building a serious following are the military-issue 1945 WWW, RAF ’53 and the very rare RCAF chronograph. The RAF 53 was made for a single year for the British air force, and features a 30mm manual wind calibre with centre seconds in a 37mm steel case with fixed lug bars. Dial is a simple black luminescent affair with Arabic numerals and broad sword hands. An earlier series was issued during the Second World War (1945) that had sub-seconds at 6 oclock and a 35mm case. These models are commonly known as W.W.W.s – Wrist Watch Waterproof, as per the military contract. The RCAF chronograph was produced for the Canadian air force, in two issues (1960 and 1962). They were mostly unmarked, featuring a plain white dial with no indication it was made by Omega until you opened it up and checked the movement (some dials do have an Omega logo near 12 oclock). The 1960 edition was 36mm, the ’62 38mm. Again, steel cases with fixed lug bars, as per usual military specs. These models are becoming increasingly sought after, but beware – fakes and redials abound!

Then we have the Constellation, Omega’s evergreen chronometer series. Beginning in 1952 as the “Globemaster” (because of legal wranglings over the Constellation name), it was an elegant dress model in steel or gold with certified chronometer movements. The earliest models featured modified bumper calibres (3XX series), which were replaced by the now legendary 5XX series automatics. The 5XX calibres are some of the finest movements ever designed, with superb performance and reliability. These are watches that can run to COSC specs after 40 or 50 years (provided they are serviced regularly). There are a many Constellation variations across the years, but generally the most sought after are the famous pie-pan dial examples (so named for their faceted convex dials) in solid gold, particularly if they have the original gold bracelet. Extreme caution must be exercised, as the Connies are some of the most faked vintage Omegas out there. A casual perusal of eBay will reveal a dozen fake or franken Connies at any given time.

Two lesser-known models that offer a very reasonable entry point for Omega collecting are the Deville and Geneve dress models. The Deville began as a Seamaster model with a monocoque (one piece) case to increase water resistance. The Geneve began as a high-spec dress watch, but in the 1960s it became an entry level model. By the 70s it was an inexpensive model that used older movements (which is a plus, because the 5XX calibres they used for many years are very good). Devilles are generally very classic with narrow bezels and thin lugs, while Geneves are a bit chunkier – later Geneves became sporty watches with beefier cases, and were available with an integrated bracelet. The integrated bracelet versions are one my personal favorites as they have a Gerald Genta-esque look, along the lines of a Royal Oak or a Nautilus – but for a fraction of the price of those models.

There are many more variations out there that would warrant attention (but I’m here to write an article, not a book) - best thing is to dive into the forums and FAQs and start researching to find the models that appeal to you. Some others worth checking out would be the Cosmic triple calendar, the Speedmaster Mark series and 1970s bullhead chronographs, the Megaquartz series, the Chronostop and Memomatic, DeVille and Seamaster chronographs, the Dynamic, and the F300hz tuning fork models.

What to Look For, and What to Avoid

When buying vintage from any brand originality is key. You want a clean watch that has not been molested – refinished or replaced parts are anathema for vintage collectors. The biggest problem with Omegas, particularly dress models, is the prevalence of refinished dials. Some are quite true to the original design, others are sloppy, some are downright fraud (there is a trend lately for cheap dress models re-dialed to look like military models, or tarted up to look like a much more valuable Rachero or Railmaster). The only way to tell what is original and what is redone is through lots and lots of research. Some redials are very good and hard to spot without an expert eye. In general if it has an expected amount of patina it is likely legit, but if it is pristine its probably redone.

Box and papers is a great bonus, but doesn’t add a lot to the value (unlike Rolex or Patek). B&P is extremely rare with Omegas in general, and it’s not that hard for someone to get a set of blank papers to go with any watch - serial numbers weren’t recorded for the most part, and the standard warranty card was a generic slip that was filled in by the retailer at the time of purchase. The only exception is chronometer models, which were accompanied by a timing certificate when they were sold. So don’t pay a big premium for B&P, it’s not worth any more than 10% over market value.

Original bracelets are a big plus; they are scarce and hard to find in good condition. Some popular bracelets (like the Speedmaster 1450) can fetch up to a thousand bucks on their own! Omega has been producing new replacement bracelets for older models for many years, so odds are that a “new old stock” bracelet is just a newer replacement item you could order from Omega at any authorized dealer. Case in point – the Speedmaster 1171/1 or the Seamaster 1380 shark mesh, which are constantly touted as a “NOS” vintage bracelet, but is in fact a new item that you can purchase from an AD. Don’t get suckered into paying big money for something that isn’t even vintage. And beware of fake bracelets – generally they have the wrong clasp codes, so doing a quick Google image search for the code will reveal if it is correct. The most common fake bracelet is marked 1286/249.

Serial numbers are always present on the movement but almost never on the outside of the case. The model number is usually engraved on the inside of the caseback along with metal hallmarks (though some national-production cases made in high-import-tariff countries may not have model numbers). You can find charts to date the movement to an approximate year on the Omega website. Papers are almost never marked with the serial (aside from chronometer certificates) because checking the number would require removing the caseback.

Original crystals are highly prized, and quite easy to identify. From the 1950s up to present, Omega always engraves a tiny Ω on the underside of their plastic crystals (but not their sapphire or mineral glass items). It can be found at the dead center of the crystal, above the pinion of the hands. Early versions up until the 90s were quite fine and are hard to see without a loupe; these have an old style logo, with a tall profile. Later crystals and modern service replacements have a much more prominent logo that can be seen with the naked eye and features a rounder, fatter design. It’s a quick way to see if the crystal is original, and if so whether it is vintage or a new replacement.

The hierarchy of value for vintage Omegas goes thusly: solid gold, steel, gold filled or gold capped, gold plated. Whereas other companies might command higher values for a steel watch, it’s almost always gold models that fetch a premium when buying Omegas. Up until the 80s Omega produced a lot of gold filled or gold plated models, these are generally not very desirable unless they are in pristine shape with no sign of the base metal showing through. The rarest Omegas of all are 18k or 14k white gold models – these were produced in very small numbers over the years and fetch top dollar when they pop up. A white gold model can be worth two to four times more than the same watch in yellow gold.

The second determiner of value is the dial – obviously originality is important, but color is particularly prized. Black and two-tone (tuxedo) dials were rare up until the 70s on dress models, usually made for special order only, so black-dialed Constellations and similar watches will fetch a significant premium. Silver or champagne coloured dials are the most common. As a result, black redials are extremely prevalent. Many less-than-honest sellers will have a dial refinished to black to raise the value. Lately there has been a spate of colored “exotic” dials coming out of Southeast Asia, mainly bright blue, green and red. While there were a few extremely rare exotic dials produced over the years, the vast majority you will encounter are modern redials. The same goes for exotic color sport models - blue or white dial Speedmasters for example. New replacement dials are available from Omega in various colors, so technically it might be a legitimate dial but won’t be original to the watch, nor would it be vintage. Watch out for giveaway descriptions like “NOS dial”, “professionally refinished”, “restored dial” etc.

Chronometer models always fetch more money than standard models – in the case of Constellation almost all were chronometers (aside from some ladies models and ultra-thin automatics), but there were small runs of chronograph and Seamaster automatic chronometers over the years. Rarity means value.

When talking about rarity in Omegas, everything is relative. A rare Patek will be one of perhaps 5 or 10 examples, a rare Rolex one of a few hundred. A rare Omega is in the thousands – with millions of watches produced over the decades, something that was made in a run of 20 or 30 thousand pieces is relatively uncommon compared to a series of several hundred thousand. So when someone touts his or her particular watch as “rare” don’t expect it to be one of a handful that will never come up again. It’s more likely just an uncommon model that the seller didn’t happen to see on eBay at the time he put up his listing. I always laugh when someone claims their watch is “rare”, as it came from a batch of “only” 65 000.

The least desirable Omegas were generally produced from the late 1970s to early 1990s. In the 70s the quartz-crisis put Omega on the verge of bankruptcy. Quality went downhill fast. The 1980s were a low point in Omega design, and most watches produced during this era were bland quartz models with little to distinguish them from the crowd. The exception would be the Speedmaster Professional, which continued more or less unchanged through to the present, and some early Seamaster “pre-Bond” automatics that still have fans. My advice would be to focus on the pre-1975 period. You’ll find lots of dirt cheap, ugly Omegas from the 1980s - they really aren’t worth considering unless you really adore a particular model.

Fakes, Frankens and Frauds

Like anything else that is desirable, fakes and cobbled-together watches abound. The most popular outright fakes are the Seamaster 300 and Constellation models. There are a number of “tells” that can give them away, so research and due diligence is key when looking at these models. A genuine calibre is NOT an indicator of legitimacy, most fakes use original Omega movements. Some fakes are quite obvious, others are frighteningly convincing, particularly if you can’t handle the watch in person before buying. Frankens are another category, where a watch is put together using genuine parts, but not in their original state. Usually newly manufactured service parts fall into this category as well. An example would be a non-chronometer watch with a chronometer dial, or an old model that has been overly “restored” with new parts.

A note about the prevalence of so-called NOS (new old stock) watches. A company in Australia called Watchco was building “new” Seamaster models (300, Ploprof, SHOM) from original movements cased in new service parts. The movements are vintage, taken from less-desirable models (Devilles and Geneves), put into newly manufactured Seamaster cases with new dials and hands. The only thing vintage is the movement while everything else is new. They aren’t fakes, as they use genuine Omega service parts produced by the factory to repair and restore old models. If you were to trace the serial through Omega it would show that the watch was not a Model XYZ to begin with.

NOS is a misnomer, because a true NOS watch is a vintage item that was never sold or worn from new, and has been in storage for decades. What they are is refurbished with new parts. I don’t have a personal problem with these “Watchco” specials (in fact I have one, a Seamaster 300) but buyers need to be aware that they are not vintage, nor are they NOS. If you want a new-old Seamaster 300 or Ploprof you can wear every day they are great, and their prices are generally reasonable, but they aren’t collectible like an original vintage item and they have very little chance of growing in value. Think of it as a re-issue, or a resto-mod with non-matching numbers. You will also raise the ire of vintage purists who will tell you it isn’t a true vintage watch.

Omegamania

In 2007, at the height of the watch market before everything came crashing down during the recession, Antiquorum held an Omega themed auction in Geneva in association with the brand. The results from the auction were, in a word, spectacular. Watches seemingly doubled or tripled in value overnight, with many vintage pieces fetching huge prices. Some items fetched ten times their market value. Unfortunately it was a product of an inflated market and a lot of hype. The Omegamania prices were impressive, but not representative of the market in general. Things have calmed down a lot since 2007; only the finest and rarest collectibles from the top brands have maintained or gained value since 2008.

Unfortunately many collectors, particularly sellers, still reference Omegamania prices. Wouldn’t you get excited if your Constellation, which you thought was worth about one or two thousand went for tens of thousands at auction? Problem is it is still only realistically worth that 1 or 2 grand. As a result you will sometimes encounter overzealous sellers who demand exorbitant prices for something that is not particularly rare or special. Remember that Omegamania was a product of the time and the presentation, and does not represent the current market. Believe me, I wish things were that hot (my collection would be worth a lot more if they were) but they simply aren’t in today’s conditions.

Summing Up

All of this might be a bit overwhelming to the budding collector. It’s a lot to digest. The only way to really get into collecting is through copious amounts of research. The more I learn, the less I feel I really know, and that is part of the fun of collecting. The history is what I find fascinating; these are objects that are a direct link to the past, and a golden age of mechanical design that preceded the Quartz Crisis. You have to be passionate about watches and have a willingness to learn and absorb information. The real thrill in vintage watches is the hunt for that perfect example, whatever it may be.

Jason Cormier is a sales associate at Matt Baily, a luxury watch store in Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronomter Watch Review

admin — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 08:01:33 +0000

I recently learned an interesting fact regarding the history of the Omega Seamaster collection. The Seamaster and Seamaster Planet Oceans that we know today are hardy tool watches suitable for diving, James Bond, and overall feeling like high-function instruments that is made really well. You'd think these pieces started out as serious dive watches. That isn't the case actually. When the first Seamaster watches came out, Omega had other pieces in its collection that were more focused on sport. The Seamaster was meant to be a fashionable watch that one could wear up in the Hamptons while playing with their kids and not worry if it got splashed on. It was meant to be a luxury watch from day one.

Overtime the Seamaster became an icon and important watch for Omega - especially as the brand continued to focus on a range of important high-intensity activities from racing to diving, and everything else where sturdy and reliable watches were needed (not to mention space travel). Flash-forward to now and we have an incredibly wide range of Seamaster watches, and its higher-end cousin the Seamaster Planet Ocean. For review I am checking out two 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer watches which well represent where the collection and brand are at today.

In short the Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer of today comes in over 20 references, is available in 42mm wide or 45.5mm wide cases, and is available with blue or black dials with various color differences. Inside is an in-house made Omega movement, and it is a comfortable beauty on the wrist.

The "Co-Axial Chronometer" part of the watch name separates these Planet Ocean watches from others that do not contain the Omega produced caliber 8500 movements. The other new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches with in-house made movements are the Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph watches that contain Omega's caliber 9300 automatic chronograph movements. Those are excellent pieces, with fantastic movements, but I personally like my dive watches three-handed. For a super chrono, Omega has the Speedmaster which now also comes with the 9300 movement.

I got to visit Omega and see the caliber 8500 movements being produced. Debuted in 2007, these large diameter movements are made for big watches and are amazing instruments that come from one of the most sophisticated timepiece movement assembly lines ever created. The need for such a production line is due to the fact that Omega must (relatively speaking) mass produce these - but with a very high quality output. They use a very cool automated assembly line that combines mostly human labor with robots that help with precision tasks. It takes about a full day to assemble and test just one 8500 movement. The movements are then sent to COSC for Chronometer testing, which takes another three weeks.

Aside from looking great, the 8500 has a few notable facts that any potential buyer would like to know about. Let me first add that Omega has the movements displayed through sapphire casebacks on the Seamaster Planet Ocean watches. This is no simple task as the watches still need to be water resistant to 600 meters. Usually dive watches have solid casebacks - but not here. The 8500 has dual mainspring barrels and a power reserve of about 60 hours. It has a DLC coated black balance wheel that is free sprung, and of course a co-axial escapement. The automatic rotor winds the movement when spinning in both directions, and when adjusting the time, you can set the hours in one hour increments to make it easy while traveling. I wasn't sure about this before, but the 8500 movement also is equipped with a silicon balance spring which should be a major plus. Oh, and there is also the 8501 movement which is the same but with am 18k rose gold rotor and balance wheel bridge. You'll find that in Seamaster PO watches with gold cases mostly.

The movement is great and certainly a major selling point of the watch. The wavy polished lines on the movement surfaces are very tasteful. For review I checked out two Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches. Both 45.5mm wide and one with the steel case and black dial, and the other in the titanium case with a blue dial. Both had ceramic bezels, but the blue model has Omega's very special Liquid Metal ceramic bezel (explained more here). Omega also makes smaller 42mm wide models of the Seamaster PO. This is a good thing for the "world market," but I like the larger sized 45.5mm wide models best myself. It helps that the Seamaster PO case design features shorter lugs which helps keep the watch look good on smaller sized wrists.

The steel case is very solid and well-made, but also heavy. On the steel bracelet this is a hefty watch. Not an issue for me at all, but some will prefer a lighter timepiece. Those people have two options. First they can opt for Omega's excellent rubber strap with deployment clasp, or there is the titanium Seamaster PO with the blue dial. This one features either a titanium bracelet or rubber clasp. Let me again say that the rubber they use is among the best I've ever had. Wonderful look and feel, and the clasp works really nicely.

The famous PO bracelet is a beautiful thing to look at and wears nicely. It does however lack the ability to micro-adjust the size. This means that it could offer the perfect fit, but also possibly be just a bit too large or small as you can only add and remove whole links. There might be a half-link option, but I am not sure. The design of the case and bracelet means that it should be comfortable if it is a bit looser than you might like, but purists like me want a precision fit. Omega sees the Planet Ocean as a Rolex Submariner competitor (and they are similar in price for the high-end POs). The Submariner does have a more sophisticated bracelet - so I would be surprised if Omega wasn't working on a new bracelet clasp for use in the future. The deployment clasp is push-button and operated very smoothly.

So wearing the watch is overall really good, but what about reading it? Omega has long since been perfecting the dial of the Planet Ocean, but surprisingly it has remained very true to Omega watch dials from many decades ago. It is a retro dial that you'd never know is retro. The double broad arrow hands are well defined and properly sized. Arabic numerals mixed with large applied hour markers made for a handsome and very easy to read look. Those Arabic numerals come in orange on some other versions of the same watch. The dial has pretty much everything you need, and very little you to not. It is a very good balance of information markers and empty space - a virtue Omega has held for a long time.

The black dialed version is actually textured - though you need to see it in the right light. The blue dialed version is more flat and glossy. I have to say that as good as the AR on the slightly domed sapphire crystal was - these dials proved to be a pain to photograph. Which is odd as they are really clear to the eye. This likely has to do with the mixture of matte and shiny elements on the dial (Omega does like to hint at bling a bit). Speaking of the sapphire crystal - it is very evenly cut and offers no discernible distortion when viewed at from extreme angles. The date windows are further done nicely. They have matching colors to the black dial and raised silver numerals - a great detail point.

Lume is beyond excellent for the watches. Much of the lume is richly applied blue SuperLumiNova, but the minute hand and bezel pip are green. This color difference assists with darkness viewing. Overall Omega has does a lot of things to make the watch easy to read. Ceramic bezels are very nice because they offer a high level of durability. Both of these watches are ceramic bezels, but the blue one on the titanium watch is more sophisticated due to it being liquid metal. These is a link to what that is above. The black ceramic bezel is actually dark gray if you look closely, and it has the indicators somehow printed on the ceramic. Not sure exactly how it works. As Omega is able to industrialize the Liquidmetal process more in the future, I anticipate it being as hot a word on Omega watches as "Co-Axial" is.

For the rare diver who actually does submerge with a mechanical watch (as opposed to a dive computer) then feel free to bring PO along. For a long time Omega has retained the external helium release value on the side of the case. That with 600 meters (about 1000 feet) of water resistance and the Seamaster PO can go just about anywhere. The helium release valve is a bit funny because it is mostly here to add a bit of "cred" to the watch as well as offer an addition crown that makes the watch look cool. Call it extra-functionality or vestigial - it doesn't matter. It is a feature you'll never use but somehow feel better about having it in your watch.

As a daily wear or occasional sport piece the Seamaster Planet Ocean just always seems to fit the bill. I really enjoyed my time with this piece and can easily say that it among the best mass-produced high-end dive watches out there. There is little lacking and a lot of good stuff here. From a comfy fit, to a great movement, Omega in the end seals the deal with a very pretty face. It isn't inexpensive however. The price for the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer watch ranges from $5,800 on the low-end up to $8,600 for the blue dialed titanium version on the titanium bracelet. The steel model with the steel bracelet is $6,200. There are even higher-end models in gold and with diamonds on the bezel that are $20,000 and over. Omega really offers a number of Seamaster Planet Ocean models to suit all tastes - mine included.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Tourbillon Watches

admin — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 08:02:13 +0000

According to Omega they were the first wrist watch brand to place a tourbillon escapement based movement into a wrist watch. This was back in 1947. I am by no means going to discuss what a tourbillon is or its history in this article. Suffice it to say however that the ancient complication designed by Breguet back in his lifetime was originally meant to be in pocket watches.

It was not until the mid 20^th century that tourbillons found themselves in wrist watches. For Omega, it was a limited production piece that only had 12 movements ever placed in cases and sold. The 1947 movement was designed as a competition movement for the Swiss Observatory Chronometry competition. It was thought that applying a tourbillon to a modern movement would help further increase its accuracy and give it that edge to win the famous competition where brands would submit movements to see which was the most accurate.

Omega won that year with its tourbillon based watch movement (which oddly enough had more in common with older pocket watch movements as opposed to more modern wrist watch movements). Like I said, a few (12) were actually put in cases and sold to customers. One of those pieces is shown here in this article. A simple looking watch, it just says “Omega Tourbillon” on the dial and rest should be up to the wearer to understand. The movement itself is nothing fancy in appearance. It is a very industrial looking movement – super accurate and with a tourbillon. It was called the Omega caliber 30I and the tourbillon made one revolution each seven and a half minutes. Seeing (and wearing) it in person was a thrill.

Later in wrist watch history tourbillon-based wrist watch movements became the popular thing for the wealthy elite. Not so much because of what they offered performance-wise, but more because of their visual appearance and complicated nature. Omega was actually at the cusp of the neo-tourbillon watch crazy that seemed to start in the early 2000s, but actually started a bit earlier. Omega’s first modern tourbillon movement was released for sale in 1994. I had no idea it was that early.

Since then Omega has steadily produced a handful of tourbillon watches each year. And by handful I mean it. If my recollection serves me right Omega’s tourbillon watch production is something like 10 watches per year. That is almost nothing compared to the brand’s larger production volume. So why do they do it? According to Omega they like to keep the tourbillon production workshop open to continue part of the brand’s history and offer something special. It is a passion department as sale of the tourbillon timepieces aren’t really a money maker for the brand. The watch makers who produce these timepieces have their own area at Omega and really just do their own thing in comparison to the other “volume production” areas of Omega.

The Omega tourbillon watch released in 1994 (the Omega calibre 1170) was interesting for at least two reasons. First, it is a central tourbillon. This means that the tourbillon carriage is placed in the center of the dial. Second, the Central Tourbillon is an automatic. If I had to add a third special quality it would be that the hour and minute hands are applied via metallization to sapphire crystal discs (think something similar to Quinting – though I think Omega’s practice predates them). So the seconds via the tourbillon were at the center, and the minute and hour hands were applied on spinning sandwiched sapphire crystals.

The Omega Central Tourbillon watches are all placed in DeVille cases (this far) and are in precious materials. From 1994 – 2010 Omega released about seven variations of the tourbillon movement. In 1997 the movement grew up a bit to become the Caliber 2600A. What really changed was the application of the automatic winding system that was now part of the movement itself. The watch designs were of course changed as well.

In 2002 after a bit of a break Omega came out with the Calibre 2600B. This movement improved upon the 2600A by having it be COSC Chronometer rated. Later in 2004 the Calibre 2600 was skeletonized for the Caliber 2633A Omega Central Chronometer Skeleton Tourbillon watch. Moving forward in 2007 Omega’s technology of today met its tourbillons by including the Co-Axial Escapement as part of the tourbillon. That step really helped thematically integrate the Central Tourbillon with the rest of the brand’s in-house made movements. That was the Caliber 2635A and was placed in a watch with an amusing name called the Omega Central Chronometer Co-Axial Tourbillon Chocolate (because of the dial). Last, as I am sure you can guess, Omega once again added a skeletonized look to the most modern Omega Central Chronometer Co-Axial Tourbillon watch with the Caliber 2636A for the longest named watch (these names just keep getting words added to them), the Omega Central Chronometer Co-Axial Skeleton Tourbillon watch.

And there is our brief history of Omega’s Central Tourbillon watch. So what is this piece all about? Of course the main idea was to create a symmetrically pleasing dial that featured a tourbillon mechanism. Doing that made it impossible to have centrally mounted hands. This meant that the hands would have to be mounted elsewhere – hence whey the sapphire place system is used. The plates sit around the tourbillon and are driven by a small ring-like gear around the bezel of the watch. This also seems to cause a complication in how you adjust the time. Pretty much everything about this watch is uniquely quirky.

For one thing you actually turn the crown counter-clockwise versus clockwise to wind it (but don’t forget that it is an automatic). Nothing major, but still a quirk. To adjust the time there is another flat crown mounted on the caseback. You need to pull it out a bit then and use it to turn the two sapphire crystal discs that indicate the minutes and hours. Cool and weird at the same time in my opinion.

Omega likes to play with the decorative elements on the watch. An especially nice area for art is the plate underneath the tourbillon. This plate is routinely machine guilloche engraved to offer a beautiful look that you need to seek out under the tourbillon while it is spinning. Speaking of which, machine guilloche engraving is what makes up most of my favorite Omega Central Tourbillon watch. A very discreet model with no brand name on the dial. All there is to remind you it is an Omega is the brand logo placed in as part of the tourbillon carriage.

The model I am referring to is pictured in this article, but I am not sure which specific model number it is. The watch has an 18k rose gold case and totally hand-machine guilloche engraved dial done in a very traditional manner. The Central Tourbilon is very visible as are the blue hour markers and hands. In this case the contrast between the blue markers on the sapphire crystals and the dial is very high. This makes reading these solid dial models a pleasure.

My main complaint on the skeletonized pieces is that the hour and minute hands are often very difficult to spot – making legibility less than optimal. Omega actually tried to remedy this as much as possible by using a complex metallization technique that applies a rounded metal markers on the sapphire crystal (as opposed to flatter ones), but it does not help enough. This is most an issue because on the skeletonized pieces the mostly gold hands blend in with the dark gray and gold movements too much. I have a feeling I know what Omega is going to work out next in their Central Tourbillon watch collection.

Wearing these watches makes me feel very special. They are models that almost no one knows about from a brand that almost everyone knows about. I think of them as being “secret Omegas” for the educated brand lover. How much do they cost? I was told in the range of about $80,000 each. Look for more of these special Omega Central Tourbillon watches to come each few years and production to remain low and steady for only the most passionate brand collectors.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer Watch Hands-On

admin — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 07:03:35 +0000

Driving in London is bad enough, but during the 2012 Summer Olympics it is going to be even worse. Omega will be there. Omega is always there. I hope they have a few private helicopters for the event (or hotels within walking distance of ALL the events). As the long-time official timer of the Olympics, Omega also gets to release special watch models each two years for the games. These Omega Olympics watches are often fantastic, and for 2012 Olympics they have devised a retro piece.

Most Omega Olympics themed watches are based on their modern collection but this is a vintage-themed model. It is based on classic designs from the late 1940s. Specifically 1948 - which is apparently the last year London held the summer Olympics. According to Omega is it also the debut year of the Seamaster watch. What a coincidence!

I have a hunch that there is going to be yet another watch for the 2012 Olympics that Omega will release closer to the games. The release of this Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer just seems early - although it fits the bill well for a proper limited edition model. Actually to be specific, the watch was debuted exactly one year before the Olympic games are sent to begin in the summer of 2012.

Looking at the original watch you can see how similar the design is and where Omega drew influence for this recreation model. The new piece will be limited to 1,948 pieces - a number that should surprise nobody. The case is 39mm wide in steel with an 18k yellow gold caseback. The case has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 120 meters. The caseback has the London 2012 Olympics logo done in relief. The case is very old-timey sport with an easy to read dial and lovely detailing all over the face. You know what really surprises me? Just how faithful Omega has been to the Original dial. Just look at the 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean watch and tell me just how much of the original DNA is in it? A lot actually.

This new limited edition Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer watch is larger than the original with an automatic Co-Axial movement. It has also been COSC Chronometer certified, using the in-house made caliber 2022 automatic movement. Aside from the 18k gold caseback, Omega adds additional gold on the dial. The applied Omega logo and hour indicators are all done in 18k white gold. The result is very subdued and appealing, just what many retro-watch lovers are looking for.

Omega matches the finely conservative watch to a black alligator strap. The combination of history, style, and Olympics fandom will help this be a very popular limited edition for Omega in honor of the upcoming games. Price is said to be relatively reasonable at $6,800.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Presents The 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean Watch Collection

admin — Tue, 21 Jun 2011 07:08:54 +0000

A medium-sized speed boat motors us away from Naples and it is hot. The ancient city I am moving away from is colorful — but that describes most of Italy. Italy is vibrantly alive, dirty, and passionate. It is also serious watch lover territory. I am pretty sure this is where large watches got their start. Omega has invited me out here for the official debut of their 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean watch collection. A few months ago, I saw the watches in a trade show setting at Baselworld in Switzerland. Already an outspoken fan of the new pieces, Omega wants me to experience Planet Ocean in a more comfortable setting where I, and other international journalists, can get the full story from Omega’s top people.

In choppy water it takes almost an hour to get to the island of Capri. I later learn that large rock has been a favorite getaway for over a thousand years in addition to being a great inspiration to artists, writers, and political minds. The Romans inhabited Capri long ago, themselves using it as a powerful resort spot for powerful people. Some of their ruins remain. Made of limestone, tricks with the light in the clear water serve to explain many of the names associated with places on the Island such as the famous Blue and Green Grottoes. Omega, a Swiss brand with a Greek name now chooses an Italian spot for their next adventure.

Among the people attending the event are Omega’s CEO, head of product development, and head of marketing - a trio of men that a legion of Omega fans would love to get a chance to chat with. Omega chose a curiously small venue to host an event for one of the world’s largest watch brands. Our intimate group makes it easy to forget that in addition to making a very healthy volume of high-end watches each year (with excellent quality to boot), Omega is that popular “moon watch” brand and official timekeeper of the Olympics. It is more than just a watch brand, it is the face of “professional timekeeping equipment” for many people. Here I am wondering if their brand ambassador George Clooney will be joining us.

Clooney doesn’t make it but Buzz Aldrin does. At 80 years old, Buzz still talks a good game and later talks to us about his other passion — the oceans. A popular Omega personality, Buzz was one of the people wearing an Omega Speedmaster Professional watch in 1969 when he walked on the moon.

Talking about the “Planet Ocean” name, Omega’s head of marketing quips to me on how difficult it is these days to find names for watches. “Everything is taken!” Omega got lucky with the name, but it is hard to offer novel nomenclature to timepieces these days. I can relate to the frustration of trying to name something new and then discovering the name is already taken. This is especially true for a dive watch — a segment ripe with derivatives.

Stories such as this are one of the reasons I am so happy to be here. Omega isn’t a faux-smile brand with spokespeople who sit there and restate the official company line. I enjoy the straightforward enthusiasm of their executive team. Based in Bienne, Omega is truly a home-grown group of Swiss-watch-culture raised members. The brand also serves as a gateway to the world of pricier watches. In America, Omega is a term synonymous with “good Swiss watch.” That reputation didn’t come from marketing, it came from decades of making good Swiss watches and the people currently running Omega know and maintain that.

Listening to Omega’s head of product development speak sheds light on some of the mysteries of watch-making and design. Good thing I recorded it. The best stuff I have for you in this article doesn’t come from me at all. The two videos included are interviews with Jean-Claude Monachon (Omega's head of Product Development) and Omega’s CEO Stephen Urquhart. I think you’ll enjoy the two of them.

Omega’s desire to beat its competition means that I always have something fun to see with them. This year, both what is inside the watches and what was outside gave me cause for excitement. And by excitement I mean frustration that I didn’t have the leverage to ask them for one of each watch. The quality of these timepieces is better than ever. Crisp dials and ceramic bezels make me wonder why anyone cares as much as they do about vintage timepieces. As for movements, I am still wowed by the Caliber 8500 and 9300 movements that are contained in the three-hand and chronograph Planet Ocean models. Even at current prices, they are solid values for high-quality dive watches with outstanding in-house made, and designed, movements.

I first wrote about the new Seamaster Planet Ocean watches for 2011 here and discussed details on the Omega Calibre 9300 movement here.

In-house movements are a tricky thing when it comes to answering “why?” Why make your own movement when a solid ETA does the job really well? To be honest, a lot of the time the only reason is the perception of value. For my money, I’d rather buy an ETA much of the time. ETA and Omega are linked, of course, as both are under the Swatch Group.

For 2011, the Caliber 9300 automatic chronograph is brand new. So again, why? The story goes that before Nicolas Hayek Sr. passed away, he issued an edict to Omega that they make the best and most beautiful chronograph movement in the world. That is, one that fulfilled those requirements and could also be industrialized. That little last caveat is the tough part. A fact that will have Omega improving the 9300 for years to come, just as ETA continually improves movements it originally released decades ago. The 9300 is certainly one of the most beautiful chronograph’s in its class. The array for decoration is inspiring and the reason for the large sapphire caseback. Even with the caseback the watch is water-resistant to 600 meters.

The features that could impress you in the Caliber 9300 are lengthy and I covered them here. For the money, there is no other mechanical chronograph movement I would want. A few desirable features include it having about 65 hours of power reserve, a silicium balance spring, a reported accuracy of about plus or minus 2 seconds a day and COSC Chronometer certified, as well. The only competitor for my attention is the Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph but that is technically something a bit different given its status as not being a purely mechanical movement. I noticed some owners of previous generation Seamaster Planet Ocean watches feeling left out of the excitement. In their shoes, I would probably feel the same way.

Omega’s blue and titanium Planet Ocean finally gets an unlimited ceramic and Liquidmetal bezel. I want to save a longer discussion about Liquidmetal for another article. However, if all goes well, Liquidmetal dials will show up on all Planet Ocean watches in due course. What is really important to say is that all but the orange bezel versions (orange is taking a bit longer but they are working on it) of the Planet Ocean watches now come in ceramic though not all with Liquidmetal. Those without Liquidmetal have numerals and markers which are offset printed using a complex form of PVD metallization. The ceramic dials for the Planet Ocean now come in black, blue, and white.

Ladies get their kicks, too, as the Planet Ocean three-hand model comes in 38, 42, and 45mm wide versions. Still loving the 45mm wide model for me but I think that the 42mm wide version is a fantastic world model — even the ladies are preferring the 42mm wide size.

Omega was clever enough to show us the new Planet Ocean watches in a more natural environment. It made me realize that most of the sport watches I see are indoors, especially at the watch shows. Sitting on some rocks near the beautiful blue ocean, we play with watches by the water and in the daylight. One of the things I noticed about the dials of the Planet Ocean is that despite having a little glossy bling to them, the hand and hour markers stay legible and visible in all forms of light. The danger, of course, is that they avoid the situation where, in certain types of light, the hand and hour markers seem to disappear into the dial.

Don’t ask me to explain the Omega mermaid. It later made sense to me as Omega showed off some video recorded of her underwater swimming with the watch wrapped around a transparent tube. That lady (Hannah) is talented. Did you know she makes her own mermaid tails and is a professional mermaid (impersonator)? Let me tell you the official explanation for her inclusion in the 2011 Planet Ocean launch event ...

Historic and archeological records of Capri found human remains near some of the rocky shores. It was discovered that people living on the Island would have their women sit on the rocks beckoning passing ships to come by and “hang out.” Oftentimes, these ships would get caught on rocks in the shallow water and get stuck. At this point, men from Capri would jump on board to steal and pillage. It was a form of piracy. Stories of this spread and eventually helped Homer create the story of the Sirens who lured sailors with songs to their death — this was on Capri. Sirens were sometimes viewed as being half woman, half fish … So they were mermaids. Omega had a siren of Capri non-melodiously bring us something not so deadly.

If I recall correctly, there is something like 46 different Seamaster Planet Ocean variants for 2011. That may be a lot of watches but it makes sense given all the color and size combinations. It is hard to pick a favorite. While I love the clean looks of the three-hand model with the Caliber 8500 movement, the technical appeal of the 9300 movement is hard to resist. Money not being an issue I’d get a black three-hand Seamaster Planet Ocean with the orange trim and the blue titanium Liquidmetal chronograph model.

In about a year or so, Omega will release a new film called Planet Ocean. The name is actually fitting as the film will be wholly funded by Omega and produced to increase environmental awareness of threats to our oceans. The film will be produced by Yann Arthus-Bertrand, a well-known French environmentalist film maker. Likely offered under a Creative Common license, the film will be available to anyone who wants to show it without cost. Omega wants to get more into the “preservation business” and is using this experience to test that out. Environmentalism usually comes with a guilt-filled message that feels like a slap on the wrist. Planet Ocean the film is intended, rather, to highlight how and why people should want to protect our environment. I recall that environmental messages became popular back in the 1980s when I was a kid. I still remember many of the brands who funded those educational campaigns which, ironically, were mostly oil and manufacturing companies.

From a marketing standpoint, Omega will never be happy enough with a good product. There are a lot of watch brands with a good product that you’ll never hear about. Omega’s power as a brand gives it the ability to offer the holy trinity of marketing which includes a quality product promise, awareness campaigns and wide distribution.

Interviewing Omega’s CEO Stephen Urquahart is always enlightening. A knowledgeable man, Urquhart comes across as a man who appreciates the high-level of responsibility involved in running a brand like Omega. Each design probably includes a degree of “you can’t please everyone.” The pluses and minuses of choices are balanced with the long-term good of the brand. While maintaining brand DNA, and those items which Omega are best known for, the brand must also innovate. At the same time, Omega is striving to upgrade its status in the market place — a move many brands seem to aspire to. I don’t quite understand the motives behind this latter goal as Omega is currently able to sell a very large amount of watches every year. My suspicion is that it has a lot to do with the more long-term goal on increasing the value perception of mechanical watches to a mass public used to Quartz watches.

Omega’s goal is to drastically reduce its sale of quartz movement based watches in favor of mechanical ones — many of which Omega plans to produce themselves. For these products to do as well, they require a more mainstream adoption of the value proposition of a well-made mechanical movement versus a quartz one.

Their plans for market development are interesting, too. In terms of the US, Omega sees itself supplementing traditional third-party retailers with more Omega boutique stores. With an already existing location in New York City, Omega’s CEO hints at plans to open many, many more. We also speak candidly about the recent legal suit that went to the US Supreme Court. The Omega v. Costco case ended up there and resulted in a narrow victory for Omega — who wanted legal protection from forms of gray market product availability in stores. This systemic approach to addressing a business is sophisticated and very unlike even other large watch brands. With the support of the Swatch Group, Omega is not just a watch maker but an advocate for the high-end watch industry.

It is easy to fall in love with Omega’s products — many have. Brands such as this make my job easier because when I write about them I don’t need to explain to people who they are. Omega already has a name for itself, it is simply my job to inform people about what they are up to. Product has never been better and, even with a strict focus on their own movements and mechanical pieces over all, Omega never forgets its more seasoned fans. For example, their CEO hints at a new “quartz based aviator watch” that will come later this year. This can only refer to the famous X-33 that contained a Superquartz movement and featured a lot of functions. Now a collector’s piece, Omega will revisit this product as there is a strong niche demand for it.

Call me impressed as I make my return trip from Capri. Even though the island is nice enough to be highly distracting, I am convinced that Omega is serious about its product and dedication to opening more communication with the consumer. If you haven’t looked at what Omega has been selling for a few years, wait until early fall (when many of these new products will more available) then go check out your local dealer. Now I have to revisit the plan of how to get some for myself.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.