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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands-On

admin — Thu, 10 May 2012 07:04:58 +0000

For 2012 Omega released a new 18k red gold version of the Seamaster Planet Ocean three-hand and chronograph models with a new type of "Ceragold" bezel. Ceragold is more or less the gold version of Liquidmetal (that I discussed in more detail here). It is a special process that Omega uses to inset gold in the engraved ceramic bezel. In a sense, this is Omega's answer to Rolex's Cerachrom.

So why isn't it just "gold Liquidmetal"? Because it isn't. The Liquidmetal process is very similar to Ceragold, but uses a different type of metal. Ceragold actually uses gold. In a nutshell, the ceramic bezel is formed and then the numeral and index holes are engraved in the ceramic bezel disc. After a conductive layer is formed in the engraved area, layers of 18k red gold are applied using an "electroforming" process. Next, the excess gold is polished off and the Ceragold bezel is finished. Omega details the Ceragold process rather well here.

So as you can see, Ceragold is similar to Liquidmetal, but not quite the same. Plus, it is a cool term. Note that as of now it only applies to the forming of the bezel. Each of the watches I have photographed are 18k red gold on black, but there are also white with gold models available. The black and gold models are extremely sexy though.

These watches are the 45.5mm wide versions of the Seamaster PO. There is the chronograph and three-hand version available with the Ceragold bezel - both look pretty fantastic. Omega will also offer the smaller three-hand Seamaster PO in the 42mm wide case with the Ceragold bezel. The watches contain in-house made Omega automatic movements. For more information about the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches see my review here.

Being gold models these watches have the higher-end 8501 or 9301 calibre movements. These versions of the 8500 and 9300 movement range have 18k red gold bridges and rotors. At this time I don't think there is a matching 18k red gold bracelet, but the watches do come on black alligator straps. Omega makes a damn solid diver and nothing is lost here with the 18k red gold versions of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold models. Prices are $22,500 for the 42mm PO, $25,000 for the 45.5mm PO, and $33,000 for the 45.5mm PO Chronograph Ceragold models.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Watches Hands-On

admin — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 07:02:56 +0000

It did not surprise me that Omega had one of the strongest collections of new watches for 2012. While most of my attention was on the new Spacemaster Z-33, the Speedmaster family had some line extensions that were really satisfying. The ones that stole the show are the newest Speedmaster Racing models.

These are not just cosmetically enhanced Speedmaster watches with tricked-out dials. These are a new twist on the Speedmaster concept with a new movement. That latter part is sure to catch the attention of other watch movement nerds like me. The new movement is a sort of middle area between a base ETA movement and a totally in-house made Omega movement like the 9300.

All Speedmaster watches are inherently about racing, but the Speedmaster Racing are more flashy by modern standards compared to the basic black and white models. Omega will initially release at least five color variants for 2012. They teased the yellow and black model, but other versions with red, black, blue, or silver dials are just as cool. The main idea is that the overall dial layout is classic Speedmaster, but there are new elements and textures included as well.

The chronograph subdials have textured insides while colors are used for some of the chronograph hands and other elements. It isn't that Omega has never played with the Speedmaster dial before, but these are among the most interesting - and certainly fun. You could call this a more youthful or casual Speedmaster if you like. It is hard for me to not like the mostly red-dialed version. Though all are nice.

The Speedmaster Racing watches are 40mm wide in a steel case. To be honest I would have loved for them to be 42-44mm wide. This is not because they look bad at 40mm, but rather that my tastes have me liking the larger sized pieces more. Nevertheless, they look great on the wrist and are comfortable. The cases are well made and the backs have that signature seahorse logo on them.

Omega will offer the Speedmaster Racing watches on both metal bracelets and rubber straps. The cases look great on each to be honest. This is one of those instances where I would recommend having both the strap and the bracelet. Inside the watch is a really exciting movement called the Omega caliber 3330. Based on the previous generation of Speedmaster column-wheel chronograph movements, the caliber 3330 adds two important features. First is a Co-Axial escapement. Omega is trying to have as many of their watches with Co-Axial escapement movements as possible. They were finally able to include that technology here. Also in the movements are silicon hair springs. Taken together, these new movement elements increase the accuracy and longevity of the chronograph movement in an appreciable way. The movements are also COSC Chronometer certified. Price for these beauties is reported to be about $4,000. Not bad.

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Omega Z-33 Spacemaster Watch

admin — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 13:55:48 +0000

For 2012 Omega returns to its tradition of offering very cool high-tech quartz pilot watches. The Z-33 is of course offered in honor of the famed Speedmaster X-33 from several years ago. Limited in production, the X-33 is now a highly lusted after collector's item. While a new watch, the Spacemaster Z-33 is produced in honor of some very important historic Omega watches.

More images will come soon, but for now you can see that the most iconic aspect of the Z-33 is the case. This is the same case design as the original Speedmaster Alaska Project watch. It was a Speedmaster designed to survive extreme cold temperatures (such as those on Mars). The version of the Alaska project watch with this case I don't think was ever produced. Though it did exist and it is very cool. The case later showed up on the Omega Flightmaster watches.

I also believe that it was the first watch case made out of titanium. It is thus fitting that the new Spacemaster Z-33 watch case is also in titanium. I will offer more tech specs when I have them available to discuss the dimensions of the watch. The case is not super large, but the case might appear that way. It is a thick piece, and very interesting looking on the wrist. The thick metal case was originally designed to protect the movement.

Like the X-33 the Z-33 will have a special thermo-compensated Swiss quartz movement. Inside the Z-33 is the Omega quartz calibre 5666 multi-function analog/digital movement. Until the X-33 with revolving text, this model has the LCD screens in an easier to read horizontal format. The special red on black screens (with backlighting) offer superior legibility.

Large titanium pushers offer the ability to easily operate the various functions that include alarm, perpetual calendar, chronograph, timer, and second time zone. The dial depsite the LCD screens is very legible and modern with a classic tint. The Spacemaster dial has SuperLumiNova all over it for night viewing as well.

This is very much a pilot watch. It has only 30 meters of water resistance, but that should be fine for most people using it. The design is really cool, and I am glad that Omega is still focusing on those wanting high-function high-end quartz movement watches. The historic case and nod to Omega's past are going to be desirable touches. The watch will come with both a leather and rubber strap. More details on the new Spacemaster Z-33 watch as I get them.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Vintage Omega Marine Chronometer Watch Hands-On

admin — Thu, 05 Jan 2012 08:06:35 +0000

There are times that I wish I could have experienced the watch industry in the 1970s. Oh what an interesting time. Quartz regulated movements debuted in the late 1960s and was still an extremely expensive novelty which everyone was interested in, but no one quite knew what to do with. Mechanical watches still reigned supreme, and the era saw the creation of the modern sports watch as we know it. It was also a time of extreme optimism and experimentation from a design perspective. The world's interest in space travel and futurism was at an all-time high, and product makers began to have more and more materials to play with. It was a good time marred by some ugly designs and outrageous ideas, but the overall sentiment seemed to be positive.

It was not until the 1980s when quartz-based timepieces became cheap enough to put a serious threat to the mechanical Swiss watch industry. Even during the late 1970s many Swiss watch makers saw it wise to totally abandon mechanical watches. They wanted their entire productions to be quartz. At the time it was thought by many people that mechanical watches were a thing of the past. I learned much of this traveling to Switzerland and listening to people discuss exactly what was going on and what they felt at the time. We now know that quartz and mechanical watches can coexist, but that is actually a modern concept.

Anyhow, going back to the late 1960s and early 1970s, the largest Swiss brands were heavily invested in making their own quartz movements. These movements were anything but mass-produced and cheap. Often times requiring as much effort as a mechanical watch to assemble, these accurate electronic wonders were considered luxury items. You'll probably never again see a Rolex watch proudly labeled "Quartz" on the dial. The same goes for Omega - who was considered by many to be a pioneer in quartz movement development.

In the late 1960s the Swiss and Japanese were aggressively trying to beat each other when it came to releasing the first quartz wrist watch. Seiko narrowly beat out the Swiss, and the Swiss followed up with a bevy of interesting high-end quartz models during the late 1960s and mostly into the 1970s. A very special one is the Omega Marine Chronometer.

There are a few people online how have laid out the technical history of the Omega Marine Chronometer better than I will ever be able to do (for example you can watch this YouTube video with images of the Marine Chronometer and a soundtrack that sounds like the guy wants to make love to the watch). I believe that it officially debuted for sale in 1974 and was available for a few years with a couple of movements variations all based on the quartz caliber 1500 series that was made by Omega.

They called these movements "Megaquartz," because of the frequency at which they ran was 2.4 MHz (mega hertz). These were also know as Megaquartz 2400 movements. One hertz is one cycle per second, so 2.4MHz is 2,400,000 cycles per second. This is extremely fast - and the faster a movement can operate the more accurate it will be. To put that into comparison, a standard quartz watch runs at about 32,768 hertz, and an average mechanical wrist watch movement such as the ubiquitous ETA 2824 automatic runs at 4 hertz. Can you notice how big those differences are?

I don't know the precise accuracy rating of the Omega caliber 1500 megaquartz movements, but it was something like one second each 1000 years. To this day it probably remains the most accurate quartz movement every made. Something Omega pads itself on the back for accomplishing, but it does so quietly as the brand's direction today is heavily on mechanical watches. The irony - that Omega themselves laugh about - is that the down-side of the Omega Marine Chronometer was its battery life. The movement sucked power such that a battery change was necessary each six months or so. That's not horrible in today's setting when the watch can be reset easily. But if you wanted the watch to be reliable for serious scientific purposes "out in the field," you'd need at least two of them running, and you'd need to stagger the battery life as well as stockpile batteries. Just a fun fact about the caliber 1500 series movements.

The 1500 series came in a few variants and were designed to fit into the rectangular case of the Marine Chronometer. I am still not sure why it has the "Constellation" name of the dial. New products tend to get complex branding I find. The design of the dial interests me. It looks like something plucked from an instrument panel. Imagine a series of gauges each with a different label. Here you are looking at the "Marine Chronometer" instrument. And what is it? Well an Omega Constellation with a sweet sounding high-tech movement. This watch thematically like the Bell & Ross BR01, in that it attempts place something from an instrument panel on your wrist. They even both have four bezel screws.

Reading the dial is simple as it is designed to be very minimalistic and devoid of excess. The round dial lack frills and is very utilitarian. Perhaps almost too much by some standards. Still, given the technology and purpose behind the movement I am glad that the face looks like a wall clock. The date is neatly tucked-in at six o'clock. Omega wanted its logo and name in large print on the face - now that is being proud of a watch! The large "Marine Chronometer" label on the top of the dial is sort of silly, especially looking at it in hindsight. The title isn't necessary, but it is a charming quirk about the design and the concept of the watch overall.

My understanding is that Omega only released one case style for the watch which was in steel with a 14k gold bezel and serial number plaque. The case is about 49mm tall and 32.5mm wide. It is 12mm thick and overall feels stately but not massive on the wrist. Retro by today's standards a bit, the tapered single-link style bracelet and overall design does endure well in my opinion. I find it interesting that the serial number is so prominently displayed on the case. Another design feature intent on making it feel more like an important instrument rather than formal timepiece. This was a serious geek watch for its time.

Back in the mid 1970s the Omega Marine Chronometer was priced very high at $1,850. It was of course the only watch of its kind and pretty high-tech. Some more info on the Marine Chronometer can be found here as chronicled by the late Omega-expert Chuck Maddox. Today Omega Marine Chronometer watches are still out there. They aren't terribly expensive, but do represent an investment in terms of adding one to your collection. I personally am really drawn to this unique watch and would gladly shell out to own one. It helps that I like how it looks on my wrist as well. Thanks to the good people at the Omega Museum for letting me play with it.

Rare Omega 1970s MARINE CHRONOMETER Bracelet for Ref1960013 Brace Ref3019 202
$298.00
Time Remaining: 7d 5h 33m
Buy It Now for only: $298.00
Buy It Now

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Watch What-If: Omega Speedmaster

admin — Fri, 30 Dec 2011 19:20:28 +0000

"Watch What-If" is a special column on aBlogtoRead.com that asks the playful question "what if an iconic watch you know and love was offered in a different style?" The idea embraces a good timepiece's core design and has fun by offering new colors and material concepts to stimulate your senses. These ideas may be provocative, artistic, or just plain silly. This is about fun, Photoshop, and the celebration of wrist watch design and experimentation. The original design we work off will always be at the bottom of the article. The designs are brought to life by Beau Hudspeth who does the artwork and concepting after he and I choose the models and styles to focus on. These special design experiments are extremely time consuming and labor intensive but we hope you enjoy the results. Ideas and comments are more than welcome. Enough response may even lead to a round two of design of the same watch - so please comment below. You are also encouraged to suggest watches that make it into the Watch What-If section here on aBlogtoRead.com.

Watch What-Iffed: Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition Apollo Soyuz Ref. 311.30.42.30.99.001

The original:

Art & Concepting in collaboration with Beau Hudspeth.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Vote For Omega Fan Photo Giveaway Winners

admin — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 19:28:15 +0000

With the Omega "stuff" for Omega watch lovers giveaway now over, I've decided to choose a few finalists and let you the readers choose the three winners. Why? Well I simply can't choose a first, second, and third place winner because aBlogtoRead.com received too many good entries.

Voting is simple. Each of the 11 images below has an associated number that goes with it. Choose just one that you think is best and vote in the poll box below. The photos with the top three amounts of votes will get first, second, and third place prizes respectively. You can click above to the original Omega stuff for Omega watch lovers giveaway page to recall what the winners will get.

Take Our Poll

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Watch Lovers, Keep Submitting Your Pictures

admin — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 23:16:12 +0000

To participate in the Omega fan giveaway (see post here), keep submitting those pictures with your Omgea watch. See the post in the aforementioned URL for detail and to enter.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Omega Giveaway Contest For Omega Watch Lovers

admin — Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:43:45 +0000

Are you an Omega watch fan? Have a favorite Omega timepiece that you are proud of? Well, in collaboration with Omega watches I have a giveaway opportunity for you. I call this the Omega fan appreciation contest, and we have three sets of Omega goodies to giveaway.

There will be be three winners: a first, second, and third place winner. Each will receive a progressively better set of cool Omega branded stuff. To enter, you will need to submit a photograph or video of you and your favorite Omega watch. I don't care what you are doing in the picture or video, but you should be comfortable with other people seeing it.

You will be judged on picture or video quality, and how much of a fan it shows that you are. How do you submit your video or picture? Just e-mail them to "omegacontest @ ablogtoread.com" (don't forget to remove the spaces in the e-mail address). If you are making a video don't send the full video file! Upload it it YouTube or Vimeo and then e-mail the link to that video location. If you have questions you can comment below.

The giveaway will run until December 15th, 2011, so enter before then.

Now that you know how to enter lets talk about what you can win:

Third Place Winner:

1 red colored Omega baseball cap
1 fancy Omega ball-point pen
1 Omega branded magnifying glass loupe

Second Place Winner:

1 red colored Omega baseball cap
1 fancy Omega ball-point pen
1 Omega branded magnifying loupe
1 Omega branded full mobile phone case protector
1 Omega branded iPad travel case

First Place Winner:

1 red colored Omega baseball cap
1 fancy Omega ball-point pen
1 Omega branded magnifying loupe
1 Omega branded full mobile phone case protector
1 Omega branded iPad travel case
1 Omega & Olympics branded black fabric briefcase

Good luck to all the Omega watch lovers and aBlogtoRead.com readers who participate.

A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must provide with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached when you enter. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. If you are contacted as a winner you have 24 hours to respond with your shipping details. This giveaway is open to anyone in the world, but shipping costs are ONLY included if your shipping address is in the United States. aBlogtoRead.com shall have the sole decision of the winning selections. All entries made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.

Good luck, and thanks to Omega watches and Omega watch fans!

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Collecting Vintage Omega Watches

admin — Tue, 29 Nov 2011 08:09:40 +0000

Introduction

A little while back I wrote a defense (or justification, depending on how you look at it) of vintage watch collecting for aBlogtoRead. Following up on that, I’d like to share a bit more of my passion for all timekeepers vintage by presenting a “state of the market” article. My personal interest, and the bulk of my collection, is in Omegas made before the 1980s, so I shall cover that which I know best.

[editor's note: To complement Jason's article and selected images, I am also including pictures I took while at the Omega watch Museum in Switzerland. Among those images you'll find some great shots of vintage Omega timepieces, as well as representations of models that are discussed below. I hope you enjoy them as much as we do.]

I’ve long felt that Omega, while well known and very respected, has been a relatively under appreciated brand among vintage collectors. That’s not to say they aren’t popular as collectibles, just that they are undervalued. Vintage Omegas are exceptionally good timepieces that are reasonably priced in today’s market; even the most valuable and rare Omegas won’t compete with the likes of Rolex and Patek, even if they are comparable in quality. While I feel this is a real shame, considering how good these watches are, it does mean that collectors have access to a wide variety of interesting pieces for reasonable money. It’s also a great introductory brand for a budding collector – they are easy to find, easy to service and get parts for, are reliable and well made, and generally nice watches to wear on a daily basis.

The Brand and the History

Omega began as an assembly “Comptoir” in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland. Louis Brandt founded the company in 1848 as a workshop that assembled pocketwatches and distributed them in several countries. The name Omega didn’t come about until 1894, by which time Louis’ sons Cesar and Louis-Paul had converted the workshop into a small manufacture in Bienne. Omega wasn’t a brand, initially; it was a movement calibre – a pendant-wound pocketwatch calibre that utilized streamlined construction techniques and interchangeable parts for a reliable and easy-to-service mass-produced design. Soon Omega calibres became a worldwide success, so much so that all watches produced by the company were branded Omega from 1903 onward. The Omega calibre was so successful and well designed that it was produced (for pocketwatches) until 1967!

Over the years Omega has been known as a brand that produced reliable and accurate watches for a wide market. In the early decades they were leaders in the production of class-winning chronometers, in both pocket and wristwatch calibres. Before the abolition of competition in chronometer trials in the 1970s, Omega was a record holder in several categories, and was one of the largest producers of mass-produced series chronometer movements in the world (until Rolex took that crown). They were also well known for being the official Olympic timekeeper from 1932 onward, and created many innovative sports timing mechanisms over the decades.

The most significant and best-known Omega models emerged in the 1950s – the Constellation chronometers, the Speedmaster chronographs, and the Seamaster dive watches. Today these three models are the top level of Omega collecting. The company’s real claim to fame was the selection of the Speedmaster chronograph by NASA for use in the space program in 1965 after a series of grueling tests. In 1969 it became the first watch on the Moon, worn by Buzz Aldrin on the surface (Neil Armstrong left his in the lander as a backup clock, a testament to how much faith they put in the Omega). Since 1969 the Speedmaster Professional (as it became known after it was selected by NASA) has become the best known, most collectible and most desirable Omega out there, thanks in no small part to Omega’s continuing marketing touting their participation in the Apollo landings (and countless limited editions to honor the fact).

Significant Models

Up until the 1950s the most popular Omegas featured the legendary 30mm hand-wound calibres. 30mm denotes the size of the movement, not the case. Produced in the millions, the 30mms (30T2 and 2XX series calibres being the most common) were robust, reliable, accurate, and easy to service. They formed a solid base for chronometer modifications as well, and today chronometer variants (with unique balance assemblies, indexes, and finely-finished gears that set them apart from base calibres) are the most desirable. Any 30mm is worth something. They were produced in cases that ranged from 32-33mm up to a pretty sizable 38mm (which looks even bigger due to the expansive dials and thin bezels). The larger sizes command a premium and are a bit harder to find, but are worth seeking out – they are elegant dress watches that are big enough to not feel out of place in a sea of 40mm plus designs. While fairly valuable, the 30mm variants are not that rare – again, they made millions of them over the decades. Finding a good, original one is not that difficult, but beware of scores of dodgy refinished dials and worn-out cases. It’s also a movement that is prone to neglect as it can run for years without attention, which means many will need a service pronto.

From the 1950s onward automatic calibres became popular, starting with the famous “bumper” calibres. Early automatics had a rotor that rotated a partial circle, not a full rotation, and were buffered by a blocking bridge with small springs on either side. When the rotor swings back and forth it bounces off the springs, hence “bumper”. This “Harwood” system, named for the inventor who developed it, was used by many brands until the 1960s due to the fact that Rolex held the main patents on the 360-degree rotor system. The most famous of the bumpers was the first generation Seamaster introduced for the 1948 London Olympics – at the time it was considered a sporty watch, with thick lugs and a water resistant case. Today it would be considered a dress watch. Generally they are not as collectible as earlier 30mms but have their own following. Up until the 1970s Seamasters were generally dressy designs, more akin to the modern Aqua Terra than the Seamaster Professional, with a few notable exceptions.

In 1957 the Seamaster 300 was released, a proper dive watch with a robust automatic movement (5XX series calibres), highly water resistant case (200 meters, despite what the “300” moniker suggests), highly legible luminescent dial and hands, and a rotating graduated bezel. It was a competitor to the Rolex Submariner, though it never achieved nearly as much success or collectibility. Early one had a narrow bezel, later models sported a bigger version with a luminescent acrylic insert. Today it is a popular but rather uncommon collectible, and highly wearable – it clocks in at a very modern 42mm, which was gigantic for a watch of this era, and considerably bigger than the 39-40mm Submariner. These command higher than average prices due to their rarity and style, but they never come close to Rolex territory, so it’s an affordable choice for a sexy vintage diver that is big enough to wear everyday. Speaking of big, there is also the Ploprof Seamaster 600 (not to be confused with the Seamaster 600 dress watch) that has found new popularity since it was re-released by Omega several years ago. It’s a massive, purpose-built diver with a one-piece case and locking bezel with a button release. Some smaller (but still sizable) divers were released following the Ploprof, including the “SHOM” models. These have a dedicated following, but prices remain accessible. Fun fact – the Seamaster Planet Ocean is a recreation of the first generation 1957 Seamaster 300, right down to the broadarrow hands, Arabic numerals, and thin bezel insert.

Also released in 1957 was the Speedmaster chronograph, the king of vintage Omegas. The first generation (called “broad arrow” due to its wide arrow-tipped hands) had an engraved metal tachymetre bezel and a 40mm “straight lug” case; by the 1960s they had adopted the style we recognize today (because it is still in production after over 50 years), with white-painted baton hands, black printed tachymetre insert, and a 42mm case with crown guards and twisted lyre lugs. From 1957 to 1968 they utilized the 321-calibre movement, a column-wheel chronograph based on a Lemania design; from 1968 to present they have used the 861-calibre (later 1861) which has a shuttle-cam system and more refined design. The 321 models are the most desirable, more so if they are straight-lug or broad-arrow models. 861s are far more common and make a bargain purchase for a vintage hand-wound chronograph, often coming up for under 2 grand for a good example. You couldn’t buy a BEZEL for an equivalent Rolex Daytona at that price, and the Daytona is a downright puny 37mm. Everyone needs to have a Speedmaster in their collection at some point, it is one of the best classic chronographs out there and its history in the space program means it is a great conversation starter. This watch was worn on the MOON dontchaknow…

Yet another 1957 release – the Railmaster anti-magnetic models. Short lived and never particularly popular, the Railmaster has become a pretty serious collectible in recent years. Like any good collectible, it was a flop and was produced in limited numbers. The Railmaster features a manual wind 2XX calibre (30mm) movement encased in a Faraday cage of soft iron, with a soft iron dial as well, to shield it from heavy magnetic fields. It’s a concept that was also used by IWC with the Ingenieur, and Rolex with the Milgauss. The Railmaster shared styling with the Ranchero, featuring a black luminescent dial with broad-arrow hands on most models. It came in a 36mm stainless steel case. Expect to pay big money for a clean, original Railmaster – anywhere from $7000 up. Some have cleared $10 or even $20K at auction.

Two significant models that are building a serious following are the military-issue 1945 WWW, RAF ’53 and the very rare RCAF chronograph. The RAF 53 was made for a single year for the British air force, and features a 30mm manual wind calibre with centre seconds in a 37mm steel case with fixed lug bars. Dial is a simple black luminescent affair with Arabic numerals and broad sword hands. An earlier series was issued during the Second World War (1945) that had sub-seconds at 6 oclock and a 35mm case. These models are commonly known as W.W.W.s – Wrist Watch Waterproof, as per the military contract. The RCAF chronograph was produced for the Canadian air force, in two issues (1960 and 1962). They were mostly unmarked, featuring a plain white dial with no indication it was made by Omega until you opened it up and checked the movement (some dials do have an Omega logo near 12 oclock). The 1960 edition was 36mm, the ’62 38mm. Again, steel cases with fixed lug bars, as per usual military specs. These models are becoming increasingly sought after, but beware – fakes and redials abound!

Then we have the Constellation, Omega’s evergreen chronometer series. Beginning in 1952 as the “Globemaster” (because of legal wranglings over the Constellation name), it was an elegant dress model in steel or gold with certified chronometer movements. The earliest models featured modified bumper calibres (3XX series), which were replaced by the now legendary 5XX series automatics. The 5XX calibres are some of the finest movements ever designed, with superb performance and reliability. These are watches that can run to COSC specs after 40 or 50 years (provided they are serviced regularly). There are a many Constellation variations across the years, but generally the most sought after are the famous pie-pan dial examples (so named for their faceted convex dials) in solid gold, particularly if they have the original gold bracelet. Extreme caution must be exercised, as the Connies are some of the most faked vintage Omegas out there. A casual perusal of eBay will reveal a dozen fake or franken Connies at any given time.

Two lesser-known models that offer a very reasonable entry point for Omega collecting are the Deville and Geneve dress models. The Deville began as a Seamaster model with a monocoque (one piece) case to increase water resistance. The Geneve began as a high-spec dress watch, but in the 1960s it became an entry level model. By the 70s it was an inexpensive model that used older movements (which is a plus, because the 5XX calibres they used for many years are very good). Devilles are generally very classic with narrow bezels and thin lugs, while Geneves are a bit chunkier – later Geneves became sporty watches with beefier cases, and were available with an integrated bracelet. The integrated bracelet versions are one my personal favorites as they have a Gerald Genta-esque look, along the lines of a Royal Oak or a Nautilus – but for a fraction of the price of those models.

There are many more variations out there that would warrant attention (but I’m here to write an article, not a book) - best thing is to dive into the forums and FAQs and start researching to find the models that appeal to you. Some others worth checking out would be the Cosmic triple calendar, the Speedmaster Mark series and 1970s bullhead chronographs, the Megaquartz series, the Chronostop and Memomatic, DeVille and Seamaster chronographs, the Dynamic, and the F300hz tuning fork models.

What to Look For, and What to Avoid

When buying vintage from any brand originality is key. You want a clean watch that has not been molested – refinished or replaced parts are anathema for vintage collectors. The biggest problem with Omegas, particularly dress models, is the prevalence of refinished dials. Some are quite true to the original design, others are sloppy, some are downright fraud (there is a trend lately for cheap dress models re-dialed to look like military models, or tarted up to look like a much more valuable Rachero or Railmaster). The only way to tell what is original and what is redone is through lots and lots of research. Some redials are very good and hard to spot without an expert eye. In general if it has an expected amount of patina it is likely legit, but if it is pristine its probably redone.

Box and papers is a great bonus, but doesn’t add a lot to the value (unlike Rolex or Patek). B&P is extremely rare with Omegas in general, and it’s not that hard for someone to get a set of blank papers to go with any watch - serial numbers weren’t recorded for the most part, and the standard warranty card was a generic slip that was filled in by the retailer at the time of purchase. The only exception is chronometer models, which were accompanied by a timing certificate when they were sold. So don’t pay a big premium for B&P, it’s not worth any more than 10% over market value.

Original bracelets are a big plus; they are scarce and hard to find in good condition. Some popular bracelets (like the Speedmaster 1450) can fetch up to a thousand bucks on their own! Omega has been producing new replacement bracelets for older models for many years, so odds are that a “new old stock” bracelet is just a newer replacement item you could order from Omega at any authorized dealer. Case in point – the Speedmaster 1171/1 or the Seamaster 1380 shark mesh, which are constantly touted as a “NOS” vintage bracelet, but is in fact a new item that you can purchase from an AD. Don’t get suckered into paying big money for something that isn’t even vintage. And beware of fake bracelets – generally they have the wrong clasp codes, so doing a quick Google image search for the code will reveal if it is correct. The most common fake bracelet is marked 1286/249.

Serial numbers are always present on the movement but almost never on the outside of the case. The model number is usually engraved on the inside of the caseback along with metal hallmarks (though some national-production cases made in high-import-tariff countries may not have model numbers). You can find charts to date the movement to an approximate year on the Omega website. Papers are almost never marked with the serial (aside from chronometer certificates) because checking the number would require removing the caseback.

Original crystals are highly prized, and quite easy to identify. From the 1950s up to present, Omega always engraves a tiny Ω on the underside of their plastic crystals (but not their sapphire or mineral glass items). It can be found at the dead center of the crystal, above the pinion of the hands. Early versions up until the 90s were quite fine and are hard to see without a loupe; these have an old style logo, with a tall profile. Later crystals and modern service replacements have a much more prominent logo that can be seen with the naked eye and features a rounder, fatter design. It’s a quick way to see if the crystal is original, and if so whether it is vintage or a new replacement.

The hierarchy of value for vintage Omegas goes thusly: solid gold, steel, gold filled or gold capped, gold plated. Whereas other companies might command higher values for a steel watch, it’s almost always gold models that fetch a premium when buying Omegas. Up until the 80s Omega produced a lot of gold filled or gold plated models, these are generally not very desirable unless they are in pristine shape with no sign of the base metal showing through. The rarest Omegas of all are 18k or 14k white gold models – these were produced in very small numbers over the years and fetch top dollar when they pop up. A white gold model can be worth two to four times more than the same watch in yellow gold.

The second determiner of value is the dial – obviously originality is important, but color is particularly prized. Black and two-tone (tuxedo) dials were rare up until the 70s on dress models, usually made for special order only, so black-dialed Constellations and similar watches will fetch a significant premium. Silver or champagne coloured dials are the most common. As a result, black redials are extremely prevalent. Many less-than-honest sellers will have a dial refinished to black to raise the value. Lately there has been a spate of colored “exotic” dials coming out of Southeast Asia, mainly bright blue, green and red. While there were a few extremely rare exotic dials produced over the years, the vast majority you will encounter are modern redials. The same goes for exotic color sport models - blue or white dial Speedmasters for example. New replacement dials are available from Omega in various colors, so technically it might be a legitimate dial but won’t be original to the watch, nor would it be vintage. Watch out for giveaway descriptions like “NOS dial”, “professionally refinished”, “restored dial” etc.

Chronometer models always fetch more money than standard models – in the case of Constellation almost all were chronometers (aside from some ladies models and ultra-thin automatics), but there were small runs of chronograph and Seamaster automatic chronometers over the years. Rarity means value.

When talking about rarity in Omegas, everything is relative. A rare Patek will be one of perhaps 5 or 10 examples, a rare Rolex one of a few hundred. A rare Omega is in the thousands – with millions of watches produced over the decades, something that was made in a run of 20 or 30 thousand pieces is relatively uncommon compared to a series of several hundred thousand. So when someone touts his or her particular watch as “rare” don’t expect it to be one of a handful that will never come up again. It’s more likely just an uncommon model that the seller didn’t happen to see on eBay at the time he put up his listing. I always laugh when someone claims their watch is “rare”, as it came from a batch of “only” 65 000.

The least desirable Omegas were generally produced from the late 1970s to early 1990s. In the 70s the quartz-crisis put Omega on the verge of bankruptcy. Quality went downhill fast. The 1980s were a low point in Omega design, and most watches produced during this era were bland quartz models with little to distinguish them from the crowd. The exception would be the Speedmaster Professional, which continued more or less unchanged through to the present, and some early Seamaster “pre-Bond” automatics that still have fans. My advice would be to focus on the pre-1975 period. You’ll find lots of dirt cheap, ugly Omegas from the 1980s - they really aren’t worth considering unless you really adore a particular model.

Fakes, Frankens and Frauds

Like anything else that is desirable, fakes and cobbled-together watches abound. The most popular outright fakes are the Seamaster 300 and Constellation models. There are a number of “tells” that can give them away, so research and due diligence is key when looking at these models. A genuine calibre is NOT an indicator of legitimacy, most fakes use original Omega movements. Some fakes are quite obvious, others are frighteningly convincing, particularly if you can’t handle the watch in person before buying. Frankens are another category, where a watch is put together using genuine parts, but not in their original state. Usually newly manufactured service parts fall into this category as well. An example would be a non-chronometer watch with a chronometer dial, or an old model that has been overly “restored” with new parts.

A note about the prevalence of so-called NOS (new old stock) watches. A company in Australia called Watchco was building “new” Seamaster models (300, Ploprof, SHOM) from original movements cased in new service parts. The movements are vintage, taken from less-desirable models (Devilles and Geneves), put into newly manufactured Seamaster cases with new dials and hands. The only thing vintage is the movement while everything else is new. They aren’t fakes, as they use genuine Omega service parts produced by the factory to repair and restore old models. If you were to trace the serial through Omega it would show that the watch was not a Model XYZ to begin with.

NOS is a misnomer, because a true NOS watch is a vintage item that was never sold or worn from new, and has been in storage for decades. What they are is refurbished with new parts. I don’t have a personal problem with these “Watchco” specials (in fact I have one, a Seamaster 300) but buyers need to be aware that they are not vintage, nor are they NOS. If you want a new-old Seamaster 300 or Ploprof you can wear every day they are great, and their prices are generally reasonable, but they aren’t collectible like an original vintage item and they have very little chance of growing in value. Think of it as a re-issue, or a resto-mod with non-matching numbers. You will also raise the ire of vintage purists who will tell you it isn’t a true vintage watch.

Omegamania

In 2007, at the height of the watch market before everything came crashing down during the recession, Antiquorum held an Omega themed auction in Geneva in association with the brand. The results from the auction were, in a word, spectacular. Watches seemingly doubled or tripled in value overnight, with many vintage pieces fetching huge prices. Some items fetched ten times their market value. Unfortunately it was a product of an inflated market and a lot of hype. The Omegamania prices were impressive, but not representative of the market in general. Things have calmed down a lot since 2007; only the finest and rarest collectibles from the top brands have maintained or gained value since 2008.

Unfortunately many collectors, particularly sellers, still reference Omegamania prices. Wouldn’t you get excited if your Constellation, which you thought was worth about one or two thousand went for tens of thousands at auction? Problem is it is still only realistically worth that 1 or 2 grand. As a result you will sometimes encounter overzealous sellers who demand exorbitant prices for something that is not particularly rare or special. Remember that Omegamania was a product of the time and the presentation, and does not represent the current market. Believe me, I wish things were that hot (my collection would be worth a lot more if they were) but they simply aren’t in today’s conditions.

Summing Up

All of this might be a bit overwhelming to the budding collector. It’s a lot to digest. The only way to really get into collecting is through copious amounts of research. The more I learn, the less I feel I really know, and that is part of the fun of collecting. The history is what I find fascinating; these are objects that are a direct link to the past, and a golden age of mechanical design that preceded the Quartz Crisis. You have to be passionate about watches and have a willingness to learn and absorb information. The real thrill in vintage watches is the hunt for that perfect example, whatever it may be.

Jason Cormier is a sales associate at Matt Baily, a luxury watch store in Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer Watch Review

admin — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 08:01:33 +0000

I recently learned an interesting fact regarding the history of the Omega Seamaster collection. The Seamaster and Seamaster Planet Oceans that we know today are hardy tool watches suitable for diving, James Bond, and overall feeling like high-function instruments that is made really well. You'd think these pieces started out as serious dive watches. That isn't the case actually. When the first Seamaster watches came out, Omega had other pieces in its collection that were more focused on sport. The Seamaster was meant to be a fashionable watch that one could wear up in the Hamptons while playing with their kids and not worry if it got splashed on. It was meant to be a luxury watch from day one.

Overtime the Seamaster became an icon and important watch for Omega - especially as the brand continued to focus on a range of important high-intensity activities from racing to diving, and everything else where sturdy and reliable watches were needed (not to mention space travel). Flash-forward to now and we have an incredibly wide range of Seamaster watches, and its higher-end cousin the Seamaster Planet Ocean. For review I am checking out two 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer watches which well represent where the collection and brand are at today.

In short the Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer of today comes in over 20 references, is available in 42mm wide or 45.5mm wide cases, and is available with blue or black dials with various color differences. Inside is an in-house made Omega movement, and it is a comfortable beauty on the wrist.

The "Co-Axial Chronometer" part of the watch name separates these Planet Ocean watches from others that do not contain the Omega produced caliber 8500 movements. The other new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches with in-house made movements are the Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph watches that contain Omega's caliber 9300 automatic chronograph movements. Those are excellent pieces, with fantastic movements, but I personally like my dive watches three-handed. For a super chrono, Omega has the Speedmaster which now also comes with the 9300 movement.

I got to visit Omega and see the caliber 8500 movements being produced. Debuted in 2007, these large diameter movements are made for big watches and are amazing instruments that come from one of the most sophisticated timepiece movement assembly lines ever created. The need for such a production line is due to the fact that Omega must (relatively speaking) mass produce these - but with a very high quality output. They use a very cool automated assembly line that combines mostly human labor with robots that help with precision tasks. It takes about a full day to assemble and test just one 8500 movement. The movements are then sent to COSC for Chronometer testing, which takes another three weeks.

Aside from looking great, the 8500 has a few notable facts that any potential buyer would like to know about. Let me first add that Omega has the movements displayed through sapphire casebacks on the Seamaster Planet Ocean watches. This is no simple task as the watches still need to be water resistant to 600 meters. Usually dive watches have solid casebacks - but not here. The 8500 has dual mainspring barrels and a power reserve of about 60 hours. It has a DLC coated black balance wheel that is free sprung, and of course a co-axial escapement. The automatic rotor winds the movement when spinning in both directions, and when adjusting the time, you can set the hours in one hour increments to make it easy while traveling. I wasn't sure about this before, but the 8500 movement also is equipped with a silicon balance spring which should be a major plus. Oh, and there is also the 8501 movement which is the same but with am 18k rose gold rotor and balance wheel bridge. You'll find that in Seamaster PO watches with gold cases mostly.

The movement is great and certainly a major selling point of the watch. The wavy polished lines on the movement surfaces are very tasteful. For review I checked out two Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches. Both 45.5mm wide and one with the steel case and black dial, and the other in the titanium case with a blue dial. Both had ceramic bezels, but the blue model has Omega's very special Liquid Metal ceramic bezel (explained more here). Omega also makes smaller 42mm wide models of the Seamaster PO. This is a good thing for the "world market," but I like the larger sized 45.5mm wide models best myself. It helps that the Seamaster PO case design features shorter lugs which helps keep the watch look good on smaller sized wrists.

The steel case is very solid and well-made, but also heavy. On the steel bracelet this is a hefty watch. Not an issue for me at all, but some will prefer a lighter timepiece. Those people have two options. First they can opt for Omega's excellent rubber strap with deployment clasp, or there is the titanium Seamaster PO with the blue dial. This one features either a titanium bracelet or rubber clasp. Let me again say that the rubber they use is among the best I've ever had. Wonderful look and feel, and the clasp works really nicely.

The famous PO bracelet is a beautiful thing to look at and wears nicely. It does however lack the ability to micro-adjust the size. This means that it could offer the perfect fit, but also possibly be just a bit too large or small as you can only add and remove whole links. There might be a half-link option, but I am not sure. The design of the case and bracelet means that it should be comfortable if it is a bit looser than you might like, but purists like me want a precision fit. Omega sees the Planet Ocean as a Rolex Submariner competitor (and they are similar in price for the high-end POs). The Submariner does have a more sophisticated bracelet - so I would be surprised if Omega wasn't working on a new bracelet clasp for use in the future. The deployment clasp is push-button and operated very smoothly.

So wearing the watch is overall really good, but what about reading it? Omega has long since been perfecting the dial of the Planet Ocean, but surprisingly it has remained very true to Omega watch dials from many decades ago. It is a retro dial that you'd never know is retro. The double broad arrow hands are well defined and properly sized. Arabic numerals mixed with large applied hour markers made for a handsome and very easy to read look. Those Arabic numerals come in orange on some other versions of the same watch. The dial has pretty much everything you need, and very little you to not. It is a very good balance of information markers and empty space - a virtue Omega has held for a long time.

The black dialed version is actually textured - though you need to see it in the right light. The blue dialed version is more flat and glossy. I have to say that as good as the AR on the slightly domed sapphire crystal was - these dials proved to be a pain to photograph. Which is odd as they are really clear to the eye. This likely has to do with the mixture of matte and shiny elements on the dial (Omega does like to hint at bling a bit). Speaking of the sapphire crystal - it is very evenly cut and offers no discernible distortion when viewed at from extreme angles. The date windows are further done nicely. They have matching colors to the black dial and raised silver numerals - a great detail point.

Lume is beyond excellent for the watches. Much of the lume is richly applied blue SuperLumiNova, but the minute hand and bezel pip are green. This color difference assists with darkness viewing. Overall Omega has does a lot of things to make the watch easy to read. Ceramic bezels are very nice because they offer a high level of durability. Both of these watches are ceramic bezels, but the blue one on the titanium watch is more sophisticated due to it being liquid metal. These is a link to what that is above. The black ceramic bezel is actually dark gray if you look closely, and it has the indicators somehow printed on the ceramic. Not sure exactly how it works. As Omega is able to industrialize the Liquidmetal process more in the future, I anticipate it being as hot a word on Omega watches as "Co-Axial" is.

For the rare diver who actually does submerge with a mechanical watch (as opposed to a dive computer) then feel free to bring PO along. For a long time Omega has retained the external helium release value on the side of the case. That with 600 meters (about 1000 feet) of water resistance and the Seamaster PO can go just about anywhere. The helium release valve is a bit funny because it is mostly here to add a bit of "cred" to the watch as well as offer an addition crown that makes the watch look cool. Call it extra-functionality or vestigial - it doesn't matter. It is a feature you'll never use but somehow feel better about having it in your watch.

As a daily wear or occasional sport piece the Seamaster Planet Ocean just always seems to fit the bill. I really enjoyed my time with this piece and can easily say that it among the best mass-produced high-end dive watches out there. There is little lacking and a lot of good stuff here. From a comfy fit, to a great movement, Omega in the end seals the deal with a very pretty face. It isn't inexpensive however. The price for the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer watch ranges from $5,800 on the low-end up to $8,600 for the blue dialed titanium version on the titanium bracelet. The steel model with the steel bracelet is $6,200. There are even higher-end models in gold and with diamonds on the bezel that are $20,000 and over. Omega really offers a number of Seamaster Planet Ocean models to suit all tastes - mine included.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.