aBlogtoRead.com » New Watches

Edox Grand Ocean Decentrique Date Automatic Watch

admin — Fri, 23 Jan 2009 16:35:40 +0000

Here is another new Edox watch for 2009, the Grand Ocean Decentrique Date Automatic. If you aren't sure about the "decentrique" part of the name, just see how the face itself is "decentered." Yes, putting the suffix "ique" on just about anything gives you the ability to charge a 10-20% premium when selling it. Its a marketing fact (no its not actually).Â Sarcasm aside, the watch is pretty nice, and gives me the hopes of owning a styling asymmetrical faced watch that I might actually be able to afford someday (you hear that Audemars Piguet Millenary collection?). Actually, the Audemars Piguet watch is not decentered but rather has two elliptical dials that create the appearance of being asymmetric while the watch face is still centered.

Like the Edox Grand Ocean Jumping Hour watch that I recently discuss, the Grand Ocean Decentrique shares the same beautifully constructed case in 45mm comprised of a mix of rubber, PVD coated and un coated rose gold plated steel. It is certainly the type of watch that makes a statement. There is also the inherent sportiness to the watch. Having the rubber strap, combined with the 100 meters of water resistance surely gives you confidence when throwing it around, right?

The dial has the watch face set low and to the right, with a crescent mood of Roman numerals enveloping the face from the left. The watch dial is encompassed by a brushed rose gold colored ring that has two screws holding it in place, further enhancing the sporty look. I am not in love with the hands (save for the seconds hand with its prominent red tip), but they do the job, and are up for interpretation. That appear to be too classically derived for such a modern and sport watch. Powering the watch is a smaller sizer ETA 2004.1 automatic movement.

My biggest complaint is to the "exhibition" date window. For a few years now watch companies have been extending the size of the date window giving you a view of yesterday's and tomorrow's date. Here you get to see five dates total. This is just getting annoying, plus there is one other big problem on this Grand Ocean Date watch, but let me explain why the date window is extended in the first place. The square nature of a date window often disrupts the harmony of curved surfaces. Everything else on the Edox's dial is nice and rounded. Throwing a harsh square in the mix just messes things up. So if you can curve the date window, you don't disrupt the harmony of curves. It sorta does work, but I don't like what it does to the date window. I've always just said make the date window a circle.

Anyway, the worst of it are the little numbers to the left of the date window. Two problems: first, they are highly unnecessary, and second I think they are a mistake. I don't need a "+1" to know that the 10th comes after the 9th. I just don't need this, and it is frankly kinda silly. This adds no functional value at all. End of story there. Then, you notice that Edox messed up with the numbers (unless I am dense and missing something). Look at the dial in the image. If today is the 8th, then why does "-1" mean the 9th?Â Wouldn't that have to say "+1?" Looks like Edox messed up here! Apparently no one is looking out for these things. My theory is that the people in design got so upset over this little creative insertion and just blocked it out of their minds altogether. "Hey, what is the date tomorrow?" "Well, I simply use this handy calculator here... 8 plus 1 (like it says on the dial) must be 9!. Hold on, let me check my work. Yes, I'm right! It says so right here." This is just silly Edox, honestly. I don't want to see this kindergarten date calculator on any other watch, ever again. Otherwise I love this timepiece! Price is a pretty reasonable $2,800 (minus your messed up date discount).

See Edox watches on eBay here.

See Edox watches on Amazon here.

Edox Men Classe Royale Chronograph Retrograde Rubber Wrist Watch 01504 357RN NIR

US $2,225.00

Edox Women First Lady Diamond Bezel Silver Dial Leather Wrist Watch 21224 3D AIR

US $1,250.00

EDOX Model 36001 3NIN CHRONORALLY Rally Multiple Chronographs Black Dial

US $3,150.00

Vintage swiss made EDOX mens wristwatch NICE condition

US $53.54

Edox Mens Les Vauberts Day Date Brown Dial Leather Wrist Watch 34001 37R BRIR

US $1,175.00

Beautiful Edox Classe Royale Chrono Retrograde

US $599.99

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Edox Grand Ocean Jumping Hour Watch

admin — Sun, 18 Jan 2009 10:24:08 +0000

Things have been quiet from Edox for a while, and suddenly they present a few new models. The brand has been crawling upmarket as of late, with the pictured recent addition to the line priced at over $5,000. This is the new Edox Grand Ocean Jumping Hour, and it takes full advantage of the brand's common nautical theme, and places a unique jumping hour display in the watch. As is the trend with "open displays," you can see a bit more of the hour disc than is necessary, but only a portion of it is framed (showing the appropriate hour). The minute hand is shown as a dial the encompasses the hour display. The minute hand style is common on each of the new watches from Edox this year. For the seconds, you have one of those clever half circle displays. Basically, you look at the hand which has two sides to determine what you are counting. If the red portion of the hand if going across the display, you read the red seconds, and vice versa for the unpainted steel side.

An interesting feature in the watch is the application of blue PVD, something that is pretty rare as PVD is almost always black. The rest of the case is done in polished steel. The case itself is pretty big at 45mm wide, with a design that reminds me distinctly of the sporty Jaquet Droz Grande Second SUW watch. You can click the link to compare the two and come to your own conclusion. This is not a bad thing though, as both watches are very cool looking in my opinion, with the Edox costing less than half of what the Jaquet Droz watch costs. I particularly like the grooved bezel and metal work into the lugs.

The movement powering this unique display is an automatic ETA 2892-2 with a special jumping hour module from Dubois Depraz. For the price of this watch, given the design, movement, and appeal; I would argue that it is probably a pretty good value. The pictured watch has a label indicating Sea Dubai, and you might be wondering why that is. Well I can speculate by suggesting that there might be regional editions. Dubai is one of the fastest growing luxury markets, and it is no surprise to see luxury makers give personal attention to the watch hungry region. With the unique yet functional design complimented by the blue tones on the case and alligator strap, you get a refreshing new watch from Edox that is the star of their 2009 line up.

See Edox watches on eBay here.

See Edox watches on Amazon here.

Edox Men Classe Royale Chronograph Retrograde Rubber Wrist Watch 01504 357RN NIR

US $2,225.00

Edox Women First Lady Diamond Bezel Silver Dial Leather Wrist Watch 21224 3D AIR

US $1,250.00

EDOX Model 36001 3NIN CHRONORALLY Rally Multiple Chronographs Black Dial

US $3,150.00

Vintage swiss made EDOX mens wristwatch NICE condition

US $53.54

Edox Mens Les Vauberts Day Date Brown Dial Leather Wrist Watch 34001 37R BRIR

US $1,175.00

Beautiful Edox Classe Royale Chrono Retrograde

US $599.99

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

New RGM North Pointer Professional GMT 254 Watch

admin — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 08:31:20 +0000

RGM makes watches in Lancaster County,Â Pennsylvania, which is a hub of American watch making. In fact, the majority of hands-on watch making that occurs in America today is in, or near Pennsylvania. A fact that strikes me as curious given the remote nature of some of these towns, but makes sense if you compare it to fine German and Swiss watch making towns. You'd be surprised to know that most of the independent watch makers in Germany and Switzerland are based in old farmhouses or alike building in tiny rural areas. take the famous Glashutte region, which is basically a one street village. I don't know why this is, but it must mean that watch makers don't like to be bothered. Thus, you'll find a lot of homegrown American watch making in what is essentially Amish country. Go Figure.

RGM is a special watch company in America because they produce one of the first American made watch movements to have been developed in a long time. This movement is not in all of their watches, as they mostly use Swiss movements. The rest of the watches are mostly made in America, from the case and dial parts. RGM is priced at the high end for American made watches, but is still reasonably priced by European standards. Now let's look at their newest model, The North Pointer Professional GMT model 254 watches.

The North Pointer is a nice no-nonsense watch. The moniker "professional" is apt, as this is a handsome watch fit for function. A Limited Edition Richard Sachs edition (only 20 pieces at about $3,500 each)Â is also available. Richard Sachs makes hand-built bicycles in Connecticut, and is highly applauded as a master bike maker. With a snug fitting rubber strap and easy to read dial, the RGM North Pointer makes a fitting cycling watch. Let's look a bit at the design of the dial. You'll notice it separated in to three concentric circles. The outermost circle serves to indicate minutes, then the middle ring is for the hours, and finally, the center ring serves to indicate the hours for the 24 hour GMT hand. This visual separation really assists with legibility, as do the large diving watch like hands. The watch also has a the date and an out of the way minimalist seconds hand. Overall the design reminds me a lot of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Aqualung watches.

The movement inside is a high-grand ETA 2893-2 that is modified a bit and decorate. This is ETA's best GMT movement. The case itself is 38.5mm wide and antimagnetic. It is also water resistant to 300 meters making it a viable diver's watch. In addition to the rubber strap, there are also various leather straps available. Continuing with its "customization" theme, RGM offers various hands for the North Pointer watch based on your tastes.

Then there is the "North Pointer" aspect of the watch and the large "N" on the GMT hand. This is more than just for show, but you can actually determine the direction of North with the watch. Actually, this is something that can be done with any such GMT watch if you can see the sun. OK, so you place the watch in a flat horizontal position (face of the watch facing the sky). Find the sun, and then point the regular hour hand of the watch toward the sun. The GMT hand should be pointing North. Pretty cool, but not necessarily unique to this watch.

The price for the non-Limited Edition RGM North Pointer Professional GMT watch is $2,950. Pretty decent price for the quality of this watch. I have a feeling in the future there will be a level of collectibleness, but never buy any watch because you think it is a good investment. That occurs only rarely. This is an emotional and functional purchase.

See RGM watches on eBay here.

See RGM watches on Amazon here.

VINTAGE DOXA AQUALUNG US DIVERS AUTOMATIC RETRO DIVER BLACK

US $1,300.00

BRAND NEW Custom Made FIFTY FATHOMS Homage Divers Swiss Automatic

US $695.00

Custom Made FIFTY FATHOMS Homage Divers Swiss Automatic w Domed Bakelite Bezel

US $675.00

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Sport

US $8,450.00

Blancpain 2250 Fifty Fathoms GMT SS SS 2250 1130 71

US $7,500.00

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 44mm Steel Antimagnetic Watch

US $9,900.00

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

New Temption Cameo Watch Finally Available

admin — Wed, 24 Dec 2008 18:00:43 +0000

Last summer I told you about the new watch from Temption called the Cameo. It is their first square cased watch, and certainly unique. As is the case with most new watch announcements, the Cameo was announced long before actual release. Well, Temption has just announced that the Cameo is finally available. Actually, the watches are being shipped, but many are sold out until the beginning of 2009. For a company that makes fewer than 1000 watches a year, the demand for the Cameo watches must be overwhelming. Still, I don't doubt that Mr. Ulbrich, President of Temption is ensuring that each watch comes out perfectly.

Temption is very proud of the process involved in attaching the sapphire crystal to the dial of the Cameo. As you can probably imagine, sapphire crystals are usually glued into place. This gives it a nice sealed look, but how strong is the bond? The Cameo uses a unique curved rectangular sapphire crystal (which I can imagine is expensive). Instead of gluing it to the dial and bezel, the sapphire crystal on the Cameo is chemically bonded (which sounds a lot like gluing) to the watch itself, which is apparently a more secure form of bonding that glue. Why is this? Well if you think about it, most sapphire crystals have all curved edges (most are simply round).Â However, looking at the Cameo, the crystal has square edges, which are notoriously difficult to seal. Thus, if Temption used the ol' gluing method, it could not ensure a good watertight seal. Never wanting to let anyone down, Temption decided to involve a more complex process in attaching the sapphire crystal so that it would be as watertight as possible. There is a special mirrored coating on the sides of the crystal to hide the bonding, making the effect completely transparent.

The image above is the first actual photo of a Cameo that I have seen. My earlier post has a computer generated image of the watch. As you can tell, they came out really nicely, and I like the shades of brown used on the watch. The design is so wonderfully simplistic it tricks you into thinking that not as much design effort went into the watch. It is just that type of detail that I appreciate and come to expect from Temption. I will certainly be wanting one of these watches when I get a chance.

See Temption watches on eBay here.

TEMPTION 20mm 20 mm LEATHER Strap CURIE CM02 OLYMPIC

US $150.00

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bavarian Crono Offers Volkswagen Instrument Panel Homage Collection Of Watches (1946-1970s)

admin — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 09:40:33 +0000

This will not be the first time that a watch face was designed after an automobile instrument panel, but this time there is no hiding the fact. In an obvious wave to the cultural icon that Volkswagen cars have been for so many over the years, Bavarian Crono ("Chrono" for us English minded folks) offers a line of watches that have very faithfully mimicked the look and feel of selected classic VW instrument panels. Currently there are 10 watches in the collection, but I suspect more will be added if this collection grows more popular (Bavarian Crono already has a few Mercedes-Benz and Jaguar themed watches).

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Bavarian Chrono started by taking a look at the exact instrument gauges in only VW Beetles. You are probably thinking that all the dial is, is the speedometer. Well in a lot of these cars, that is all there was. No tachometer, not much else. That is why a lot of the warning lights, fuel gauge, etc... are packed into this singular dial,Â and all that is reproduced in the corresponding watch. The line ranges from a 1946 Beetle to the 1971 Beetle. There is also the instrument panel from the Italian designed 1966 VW Karmann Ghia, and of course the VW Bus T1 model from 1961 that inspired to many and barely made it up hills. I think in mint condition a VW Bus tops out at about 85mph. Which is funny because that speed is actually more than the Bus T1's speedometer allowed for. The gauge topped out at 120kph, but 85mph would be about 136kph. That is actually amusing as I am used to modern cars having a speedometer that ends way above a car's top speed (my car's speedometer tops out at 200mph, but I'm never gonna be seeing speeds anywhere near that unless my car is involved in a free fall). But, damn, I understand those were competent little people haulers even if they looked small from the outside.

The entire Classic Cronos line for VW is very well priced at between 123-249 euros. A lot of what you are paying for is the look of course. Inside are Swiss Ronda quartz movements and the dials just feature the hour and minute. The standard gauge pointer that was on the original dial is the minute hand, and you'll notice how an hour hand was slyly inserted in the mix. The odometer on each of the dials is set to the year of the VW gauge's first appearance, just to remind you. That is a nice little touch, and exactly what I would expect from the Germans.

The watches come on leather straps which can be had in various shades of brown or black, and are meant to match the dial and watch overall. I would get a kick if the straps were made from the original types of cloth that were used on the seats of the car model in question... that would make for hideous looking watch straps! The watch cases are 37mm wide, which is on the "medium side" but that is ok for a watch of this type. The diminutive bezel makes for a large looking watch.

It is really interesting to observe the evolution of the VW Beetle instrument cluster design. Bavarian Crono designer Eckehard R. Franz communicates the great efforts he utilized in the recreation of the dials, especially the hands. The firstÂ panel from 1946 was designed by the great Ferdinand Porsche. It was shared on the first Porsche model in 1947. Then the design seems to follow a minimalist approach into the 1950s and 1960s, but still embodies a hip sense of style mixed with the "space age" design approach common to the time. Closer to the 1970s, and of course with the Mexican Beetle, you begin to see a vastly more economical approach to design. Less use of textures and design prowess in exchange for a more efficient utilitarian look. This makes sense as the market's evolved and the VW Beetle has remained for much of its life a practical and economical car with only Spartan amenities. The Mexican Beetle is so named because of its construction in VW's Mexican factories. It is actually interesting, because the same model Beetle was consistently produced for about 30 years with little to no changes. Of course, these models were purely for non-US use. Coincidentally, the New Beetle is also produced in Mexico.

I think to myself, "what is the real appeal of a watch such as this?" In one sense, It is kinda of silly having a car instrument panel on your wrist as a watch. While you can tell the time by disregarding the gauges, you are looking at a fuel gauge and turn signal most of the time. So in that respect, it is a novelty. But then I think about nostalgia. The concept of pleasant reminders. My first car (as well as the model of my current car) was Volkswagen. I spent close to 10 years with it. No trip in the Passat lacked a few helpful glances as that instrument cluster. A lot of really good memories and feelings are intrinsically linked with that car, a quality that only a few pieces of machinery can ever hope to embody. I can imagine that a watch providing an iconic reminder to my VW Passat would have a meaningful place in my collection. This is the hope that Bavarian Crono likely has with the VW instrument panel collection of watches; and one that will likely find many receptive followers in a world with millions upon millions of drivers having similar experiences such as my own with Volkswagen cars. So thus there is a definite rhyme and reason to this collection.

See Bavarian Crono and Volkswagen watches on eBay here.

See Volkswagen watches on Amazon here.

Evw Volkswagen Rabbit Stainless Steel Watch New Cool

US $7.00

v442 Volkswagen GTI Steering Watch New

US $9.99

v302 Volkswagen Rabbit Stainless Steel Watch New Cool

US $7.00

Philip Stein Prestige White Dial Chronograph Mens Watch 13 VW RW

US $1,550.50

New Volkswagen scirocco VTG speedometer watches good quality

US $15.75

New Volkswagen Scirocco R Speedometer gauge Watches Good quality

US $15.75

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Ulysse Nardin Imperial St. Petersburg Maxi Marine Chronometer Enamel Limited Edition Watch

admin — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 17:59:31 +0000

In accordance with the long standing tradition of moniker elongation for high value, high exclusivity watches, the newest limited edition Ulysse Nardin does not disappoint. Nothing less than eleven words make up this new watch aimed strictly at the wealthy Russian crowd. The Ulysse Nardin Imperial St. Petersburg Maxi Marine Chronometer Enamel Limited Edition watch takes advantage of the watch lust in Russia's uber-rich newly minted quasi-aristocratic class. Without discussing today's Russia, it goes without saying that there is a growing class of watch loving rich Russians.

If you want to know where the wealth of the world is, look no further than watch company marketing efforts. They are keen on finding new and old money to peddle their goods to. And what wonderful peddlers they can be, with fine wares and artistic creations. Taking advantage of high purchasing power, watch companies make beautiful and amazing watches and timepiece novelties for purchase by a select few. For the richest still, custom watches and items are manufactured. This item is as much a centerpiece as it is a timepiece.

The Ulysse Nardin Imperial St. Petersburg goes straight to the historical love of Faberge eggs by the Russian royalty. Although there is a Faberge watchmaker (no relation to Ulysse Nardin), no one holds the rights to egg decoration and gilding! The Imperial St. PetersburgÂ white enamel dial watch comes in a fancifully decorated gold and diamond decorated enamel egg case. The stand sits on gold anchor shaped feet and features legendary sites from St. Petersburg. The egg case opens with an inner compartment case for the watch. It is a serious reminder of the style of decorated eggs that the Czars loved.

The watch itself is based on the Maxi Marine model. Like the egg, it has an enamel dial, with painted numerals and the St. Petersburg eagle shield. The limited edition watch is limited to 30 watches, and each is made in platinum with a gold rotor visible through the caseback window. Inside is a Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-26. The automatic movement is certified as a Chronometer. Further, the watch has 200m water resistance; diving for caviar anyone?

All in all it is a rather regal looking timepiece. The Maxi Marine collection has always had a turn of the centuryÂ (not this last one) nautical look, and the 43mm wide platinum case and black alligator strap are sure to result in a wealthy look. The target audience is bound to love the watch, as it celebrates a time in Russia of which it's people are proud. As much as they don't like to admit I think most countries are proud of their Imperialistic eras.

See Ulysse Nardin watches on eBay here.

See Ulysse Nardin watches on Amazon here.

Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Rose Gold and Blue Rubber Strap with Deployment buckle

US $2,799.99

Ulysse Nardin Vintage Rare Poker Dial Casino Timepiece Gold Plated LNIB

US $1,800.00

Ulysse Nardin GMT Big Date 42mm

US $5,300.00

Vintage Ulysse Nardin Xfine wristwatch movement 21 mm

US $124.99

Vintage Ulysse Nardin lady movement and dial to restore

US $99.99

MENS ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE CHRONOMETER GOLD RUBBER WATCH

US $14,995.00

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Panerai Luminor Chrono Daylight Titanium PAM 327 Watch Released

admin — Tue, 16 Dec 2008 18:39:17 +0000

Panerai is pretty regular about their watch release schedule. We tend to get a few new ones each year. With the pre Basel announcements coming up, I expect to see a lot from Panerai this year. One new announcement is the Luminor Chrono Daylight Titanium, which is the ref. PAM 327. This Panerai is distinctly modern in its approach with a broad demographic appeal. I am no Panerai historian, but it is easy to tell that there is mostly "new direction" design accents in this watch. Ignoring the watch itself for a moment, looking at the titanium bracelet indicates a new, more angular look to the masculine watches. Older Panerai metal bracelets featured some really unique curved links. The PAM 327 has what are arguably something simple, plainer Y-shaped links. The look in nice, but not exciting - and the small size of the links adds to wearing comfort, but gone is a lot of the character.

The dial itself shows the metallic blue that people go crazy over. It is a great color, and when done right makes for a beautiful watch. The Sinn 203 Arktis was one of the first to use such a blue dial, and since then a few have displayed it. I am not sure why the watch is known as the "Daylight." I am guessing that since blue faced models are often arctic themed, the name refers to the fact that such polar locations of the Earth experience far more daylight, especially in the summer. The little touches are also nice, like the matching colored date window disc, and the easy to read chronograph seconds hand.

Inside is a Panerai caliber OPXII automatic chronograph movement. It isn't in-house made though. Gladly the movement is a certified Chronometer, but Panerai has neglected to mention this on the face. This is a positive or negative trait depending on whom you ask (some people do or don't like lots of text on the face). From a design standpoint, the tri-compax chronograph layout and overall face design is no nonsense. So practical and utilitarian, you might forget it is a Panerai. That isn't to say it isn't nice, but this is of the most function oriented Panerai watches I have ever seen. The 44mm wide case is standard Panerai size, and the titanium used to make the case and bracelet ensures light weight even though the hefty package. The Panerai Luminor Chrono Daylight Titanium is an excellent watch for the conservative watch lover who values function and is drawn by the Panerai name.

See Panerai watches on eBay here.

See Panerai watches on Amazon here.

Panerai PAM 212 I Luminor 1950 44mm Chrono SS Mint

US $6,500.00

Panerai Luminor 44mm Daylight Chrono Bracelet Pam 236

US $10,495.00

Panerai Luminor 44mm New Daylight Chrono Pam 356

US $9,400.00

PANERAI New Luminor Chrono Daylight 44mm pam 00236

US $10,600.00

Panerai Luminor 44mm Daylight Chrono Pam 250 Display

US $8,900.00

PANERAI New Luminor Chrono Daylight Auto 44mm pam 00250

US $9,500.00

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Discussing DLC: Linde Werdelin Talks About The Hard Black Elemental Watch And Diamond Like Carbon Coating In General

admin — Sun, 23 Nov 2008 11:23:29 +0000

You've probably seen at least something about DLC. You might not know what it is though, and the three letter term might go right past you. That's OK, because DLC is a relatively new addition to a watch maker's arsenal. Speaking with the very knowledgeable people at Linde Werdelin, IÂ recently have a new understanding of DLC, and am excited about Linde Werdelin's future incorporating the special coating on select lines of watches. Be aware that while DLC has many industrial applications, finicky watch makers demand only the highest grade materials and processes.

DLC stands for "Diamond Like Carbon." Which is a bit confusing, as so many things are made from carbon, including diamonds. The idea is simple, diamonds are extremely dense in terms of their carbonic make up, and so is DLC. However diamonds have a crystalline atomic make up, where as DLC is more hexagonal in shape and formation; think of something that look likes. DLC shares a lot of diamond properties, but is simply different in terms of make up and production. This is a very simple explanation of course, so just the basics that I think are best to know are being covered.

DLC is a coating, and not a compound suited for material building, at least as of now (my hopes are that in the future, you'll have an entire watch made out of DLC, not just coated with it). The process of producing DLC requires a 'bond,' or something for it to stick to. Typically, DLC is a thin coating (a few microns thick). The actual process of making and bonding DLC are proprietary techniques which are either trade secrets or patented, depending on who is applying the DLC or making it. Though, universally, the metal to be applied a DLC coating is placed in a special chamber where the DLC coating is literally blasted to the surface of the metal. My understanding is that is not a precision application, so the entire piece of metal placed in the chamber will be coated. Linde Werdelin is particularly proud of their DLC process which is said to be stronger, and of a higher quality than other DLC coatings that you may find. The reason for this is the hydrogen content of the DLC coating. DLC that contains any hydrogen has carbon molecules that are not as close together because of the hydrogen present. A hydrogen free DLC coating (such as used by Linde Werdelin) allows for the carbon to be closer together, and thus the coating overall is harder (rated at about 5000 Hardness Vickers, HV). Really hard!

DLC as applied to watches was first seen on Japanese models, but was quickly adopted by European watch firms that were attracted by the wonder compound. The value in DLC is in its immense durability. One test I read about took a piece of steel that, given a particular type of wear, had a durable life of one week. With a DLC coating, that life was increased to an estimated 85 years. DLC offers at least two types of desirable durability traits. First, is resistance to shock. Meaning that it takes a lot of physical shock to damage, rub off, or dent the DLC coating. Second, is the related concept of scratch resistance; DLC is not only hard, but it is difficult to distort or displace. The natural appearance of a DLC coating is a dark gray, almost black appearance with a slight sheen. To the touch it is very slick (meaning it is also highly water resistant). As an added benefit to germaphobes, bacteria is unable to grow on DLC coatings.

Linde Werdelin doesn't just have a DLC coating applied to its watches and call it a day. The process of hardening is very involved with their first DLC watch, the Hard Black Elemental. While these processes are often not publicized, the high costs of many luxury watches can stem from the involved and time consuming processes that must occur to get the perfect end result. Lets go through the process with the case part of the watch. First the case is milled out of 316L high grade steel. Milling literally cuts steel into the right shape, versus having to bend or shape it. The steel is then specially heated in an oven, and a process called Kolsterising takes place. The Kolsterizing process takes advantage of the fact that the surface of the steel become porous, and another hardening compound is applied before the steel cools, whose molecules settle in the steel. This process is another means of hardening the steel even before the DLC coating is applied. By the time the DLC coating is blasted on the watch case, it is already very hard. A reason that you typically don't see watches finished with just Kolsterizing is because it results in a blotchy look to the steel surface. The caseback of the Hard Black is not DLC coated steel, though it appears as such. Another metal used on the Hard Black DLC watch is aluminum. If you look closely at the image of the rear of the Linde Werdelin Hard Black, you'll notice holes drilled in to the rear of the watch to allow for unscrewing of the case back. The holes are drilled through a layer of brushed anodized aluminum which is placed over the screw-on stainless steel plate on the rear of the watch. Anodized aluminum has a great ability to be colored (much more easily that stainless steel), and is very light. Thus its application on the caseback.

DLC is an amazingly rugged material and is still young in its applications, especially in the watch industry. The benefit of having a DLC coating on a watch makes for a serious tool that you can easily throw around without worry. It is another (big) step forward to achieving a common dream of many; having a luxury watch that will keep its polish and sheen regardless of the abuse you subject it to.

Linde Werdelin's Hard Black DLC Elemental watch is available as a limited edition, with more DLC watches to come from Linde Werdelin soon. It is based on the very attractive and unique Elemental Biformeter watch line. The watch is 46mm wide with an automatic ETA 2892 inside (with a 42 hour power reserve). Pricing is around $5000 US, but you'll be paying in British Pounds. This is a true luxury, sports activity watch, and you can feel comfortable doing just about anything with it. Personally, I like the design, but it takes a while for it to grow on some people. One of the best aspects of Linde Werdelin is their personal touch and communication; you know that as a customer or prospective customer, you'll have their full attention if you have any issues, and they love feedback.

I want to thank Linde Werdelin for talking with me about the DLC coating process, and especially their particular use of the impressive technology. Please contact Linde Werdelin here, and look out for more DLC watches in the near future.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Vacheron Constantin Returns To What It Is Good At With The Collection Excellence Platine Patrimony Double Retrograde Watch

admin — Sat, 22 Nov 2008 10:29:31 +0000

Vacheron Constantin isn't good at everything, but they are good at a few things. One of those things is making effectively simple luxury watches. Getting too avant garde really isn't their thing. Releasing "modern" watches really isn't their thing either. In my opinion the newer Quai de l'Ile collection was a visual and logical disaster.

Moving forward, Vacheron Constantin has been focusing a great deal on platinum watches. The expensive and hard to work with metal has been increasing in popularity, especially as many of the world's wealthy watch lovers are seeking more and more exclusive materials for their watches. While there is nothing new about platinum, it has always been of the rarest precious metals, and notorious for requiring extreme efforts to work.

The Platine Patrimony Double Retrograde watch (Limited Edition of 100 pieces) features a platinum case, with a platinum dial, platinum hands, and even platinum threading (exclusive to Vacheron Constantin) on the strap. However, the hour indices are white gold (easier to polish, and the contrast with the sand-blasted platinum dial assists with legibility). You then have the blue hands for the retrograde date (on the top), and day of the week (on the bottom). The layout is really nice and simple. Not the same as Patek Philippe, but similar in terms of simplicity. It is a good idea to keep things easy to ready, and this is one of the better executions of a retrograde calendar that I have seen.

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Inside is an in house Vacheron Constantin caliber 2460R31R7 with 27 jewels, beating at 28,800 bph and with a power reserve of 40 hours. Pretty simple, but the power reserve is a bit low in my opinion. The decoration of the movement is impressive however. Meticulous polishing on the movement itself, and the 22k gold rotor is guilloche engraved for a great classic look. Further, the rotor is coupled with ceramic ball bearings which are proving to be a better alternative that steel ball bearings that rely much more on lubrication.

The PT950 stamp on the watch dial and the rear of the watch indicate the purity of the platinum, which in this case is very close to being pure. The watch case is 42.5mm wide, a good size. It is good to see Vacheron Constantin focusing more on the things it is good at. No brand wants to hear that it cannot do everything, but it is important to focus on a company's strengths. Watches like the Platine Patrimony Double Retrograde fall into this category, and should be seen as an example of Vacheron Constantin as a whole. Price? Well consider the Vacheron Constantin name, and the fact that it is Platinum and you are shooting upward of $50k.

See Vacheron Constantin watches on eBay here.

See Vacheron Constantin watches on Amazon here.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronometer Original Auto 42042 423A $10900 LNIB

US $7,200.00

1905 VACHERON CONSTANTIN GENEVA POCKET WATCH 258925 512MM

US $633.94

Vacheron Constantin 435 Mainspring

US $50.00

POCKET WATCH ANTIQUE 9KT SOLID GOLD VACHERON CONSTANTIN CHRONOGRAPH NR MINT 1922

US $4,646.84

VINTAGE Vacheron Constantin Swiss Pocket Watch 14k Solid Green Gold NICE 60g

US $740.00

VINTAGE POCKET WATCH MOVEMENT LOT 1 VACHERON CONSTANTIN 38MM RUNS

US $29.00

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Corum Admiral’s Cup Watch Line Gets The Black Flag And Black Hull For Piratey Good Times

admin — Sat, 15 Nov 2008 10:46:07 +0000

I've always been a fan of the Corum Admiral's Cup lines of watch, the more modern versions that is. The watch is meant to celebrate the Admiral's Cup yacht race, that you've only heard about if you are known in some circles as "admiral," or are currently wearing deck shoes. The trademark of the watches are the flags that have been used as hour indicators. Oh, and the chronograph seconds hand that was apparently fashioned from a cocktail drink stirrer. Which of course goes with boating.

What is really great about the Admiral's Cup watches is the angular cases, large size, and large hands. It is a fine looking watch with nice components. Functions have varied widely from tide graphs to calendars, small seconds, and of course a chronograph. Not sure if they have a regatta timer though, they should.

Banking on the success of the design, Corum keeps releasing variations, the most recent of which are pretty large. The Blag Flag and Black Hull share the 48mm wide case that does serious justice to the boldness of the watch. Each also has a combination of case materials including titanium and rubber; making the case light and durable. The strap is of course also rubber.

The chronograph pushers on the case have an interesting feature; a sliding lock to keep them from being pushed. Some chronograph pushers offer screw guards, but Corum takes a nifty little approach here to do it differently (as screw guards obviously would not work as the pushers are not round).

Both models features the Corum caliber CO753 automatic movement which has been certified as a chronometer. The watches have a 300m water resistance, and all the high quality construction and finish you can expect from Corum.

The Black Flag and Black Hull models are very similar with only differences in the dial. The Black Hull is all black, while the Black Flag as blue lume on the hands and numerals. Both watches tastefully undertone the flags in black, which are slowly becoming a vestigial element of the Admiral's Cup line that seems to slowly lose significance. Here the flags are neatly placed along the chapter ring (or um, twelve-agon) around the dial in dark tones. You'll notice that the hands (main and especially subdial) as taken from the look of classic compasses.

The dial differences are there, mostly different textures and subdials designs. One has a more exposed date window. They are both equally nice, but neither is exactly legendary in its innovation. Just all around handsome looking sporty watches fit for a pirate or whatever it is you wish to do while you are at sea (or on land). My choice however is the Black Flag, probably because the blue is pleasant, and I like how the subsidiary seconds dial is really meant to look like a compass thematically. Interestingly enough the Admiral's Cup Black Flag is a 100 piece limited edition, only for America. That is a new one.

See Corum watches on eBay here.

See Corum watches on Amazon here.

Rare NOS Authentic Blue CORUM Admirals Cup Dial to suit ETA 956112 MINT

US $40.00

Corum Admirals Cup Watch

US $455.00

Corum Admirals Cup Gypsy Moth IV Ref 98268355 0F02 18K Rose Gold $18950 LNIB

US $12,700.00

Corum Admirals Cup Tides 48 NEW 18k Rose Gold $2770000 Mens 48mm Watch

US $17,975.00

Corum Admirals Cup Competition 48 Titanium 18k Rose Gold NEW $1220000 Watch

US $7,875.00

Corum Admirals Cup Competition 48 Titanium $860000 NEW Day Date 48mm Watch

US $5,775.00

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.