aBlogtoRead.com » Watch Industry News

NYC Watch Lover Meet-Up Tonight May 2nd

admin — Wed, 02 May 2012 12:15:46 +0000

The aBlogtoRead.com/HourTime Show Watch Podcast/WristWatchReview.com reader/listener meet-up event is tonight, May 2nd, 2012 in New York City at:

Heartland Brewery
35 Union Square West
New York, NY 10003
(212) 645-3400
heartlandbrewery.com‎

The meet-up will start at about 6pm. Enjoy some beer, nosh, and watch talk, and horological interludes with Ariel Adams and John Biggs. All those planning on attending are invited to comment below so we can add you to the headcount. See you there.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

No related posts.

LAST CHANCE: USAgency Air Force One Watch Bundle Giveaway

admin — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 23:46:39 +0000

Just a few more hours to enter for a chance to win the bundle of items from USAgency watches. This includes a watch, sunglasses, wallet, and special secret watch box. Click here to enter for a chance to win before the end of April tonight.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Attend Madison Avenue Watch Week: April 28 – May 4, 2012

admin — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 22:05:39 +0000

special sponsored section

2^ND ANNUAL MADISON AVENUE WATCH WEEK: APRIL 28- MAY 4, 2012

Kicks-off Saturday, April 28, with Gallery of Watches Tent

Exhibitions and Previews of New Watches in 17 Premier Timepiece Boutiques on New York's Madison Avenue

WHO: Antiquorum Auctioneers, Asprey, Blancpain, Breguet, Buccellati, Chopard, David Yurman, De Grisogono, F.P. Journe, Georg Jensen, Girard-Perregaux, Graff, Mauboussin, Montblanc, Porsche Design, Stephen Russell, Vacheron Constantin. Presented by Madison Avenue Business Improvement District (BID).

WHAT: The 2^nd annual Madison Avenue Watch Week will celebrate haute horology for timepiece collectors and connoisseurs in 17 of the world's premier watch retailers located on Madison Avenue between 57^th and 86^th Streets. Madison Avenue Watch Week is free and open to the public, and will feature new watch previews and launches; discussions with watchmakers; presentations regarding trends in design, manufacturing and mechanism technology; an exhibition of antique and historic timepieces; and private in-store receptions and VIP sales appointments.

On Saturday, April 28, the public will be treated to images of the state-of-the art watches that will be coming to America for the first time from Baselworld in Switzerland in the Gallery of Watches tent. Experts will be in the stores to show the most advanced timepieces and give talks and demonstrations on the newest technology and the Art of Watchmaking. Watch enthusiasts can also find out more about Watch Week festivities and register for invitations to boutique receptions during Watch Week.

For more information about Madison Avenue Watch Week and a calendar of events, please visit: www.MadisonAvenueWatchWeek.com. Once there please click on "request invitation" to gain access to additional events.

WHEN: April 28-May 4, 2012

WHERE: Madison Avenue between 57^th and 86^th Streets

RLH Event: Watch Lover Meetup In New York City May 2nd

admin — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 04:28:26 +0000

Get ready for the first Real-Life Horology event. This time it will be a light social gathering to have drinks and talk about watches in New York City. Casual and fun. Come there and we will give name tags to RLH attendees so you'll know who shares your addiction. I will be there with my HourTime Show podcast co-host John Biggs. I don't come to New York City very often, so this will be a special occasion for readers in NYC. Don't be shy, come by and you'll feel welcome. We are proud to invite New York watch lovers to this seminal RLH event.

The NYC RLH event will be on May 2nd, 2012 in New York City - location and time to be determined and e-mailed to you a few days before the event. The invite will go out to all RLH members no matter where you live (because we don't know who will be in NYC on May 2nd). After you get the invite you'll be asked to RSVP if you are doing. If you are already an RLH member then do nothing but wait. New RLH members sign up by clicking the button below.

Real Life Horology Events Sign Up

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

RLH Watch Events by aBlogtoRead.com: Los Angeles & New York City

admin — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 23:29:33 +0000

Get ready for some offline watch love. Real Life Horology (RLH) is an event series that aBlogtoRead.com will facilitate dedicated to bringing you together with watch makers and other watch lovers. The idea is simple: sign up (below) as a Real Life Horology member and when an event in your area is planned, you'll be notified and invited. All events will be RSVP only, and anyone can join.

RLH events will be designed to be fun and bring you together with watch lovers and watch makers. The first events will take place in and around Los Angeles, California as well as New York City. Therefore, we invite all readers who are located in Southern California and around New York City to sign up right away. As soon as an event is planned you'll be contacted. If you don't live in these areas you can still sign up of course. Future events will most likely take place in larger cities, so be patient and don't hesitate to sign up no matter where you reside.

What types of events can you expect from RLH? The events will include dinners, presentations, parties, social gatherings, and educational seminars. Some events will likely be sponsored by major watch brands and focus on helping you to get better acquainted with their products and people. Other events will focus less on specific watch brands and offer more neutral environments for watch lovers and their friends to simply have a good time. Nothing boring, just real life horology.

Click below to sign up for Real Life Horology Events by aBlogtoRead.com:

Real Life Horology Events Sign Up

Please note that the first events will be located in Los Angeles and New York City - so certainly sign up if you are nearby.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

USAgency Air Force One Watch Bundle Giveaway

admin — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 07:03:34 +0000

This month's giveaway is a fun one because the winner will get a bundle of items from USAgency Watches. They have the official license from several US Government agencies and supply watches to them as well. Agencies they work with include the CIA, FBI, LAPD, NCIS, as well as the people who work on Air Force One... and more.

Up for grabs is the Air Force One Tritium watch. The lightweight tactical watch is in polycarbonate and is 47.5mm wide. It contains tritium gas tubes for dial illumination. Not just any gas tubes, but the high-powered T100 tubes. Inside the watch is a Swiss Ronda quartz movement, and the watch it attached to a black silicone strap. Water resistant to 200 meters, this piece retails for $399.

Next you'll get a covert box that can be used to store anything you like. The box looks like a book and is made of wood. You can open it up and store your watch or other valuable goods. It also comes with the special US Agency coin. In addition to that you'll get a pair of American Optics USA made aviator sunglasses. Your choice of green or gray tint and they come with a security strap to keep them on your face. These are the same sunglasses that have been historically provided to countless US agency and military personnel. They retail for $169.00 each. Last, you'll get your choice of RFID blocked wallets. These special wallets shield against unwanted RFID reading devices. This is to protect your privacy and any personal information that may be contained on cards in your wallet that contain RFID chips. This includes some credit cards and ID badges - which can be remotely scanned by cheap RFID readers. Winner get's their choice of available wallet, which retail for $40 each. Just enter below for a chance to win this bundle of cool stuff.

To Enter You Must:

1. Comment on this post below (on aBlogtoRead.com, not Facebook or elsewhere you might see this article) before the giveaway is over with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention a US (or foreign) government agency whose work you admire the most.

2. Be a pal. If possible, Facebook like all or any of the following:

Like aBlogtoRead.com on Facebook

Want aBlogtoRead.com articles automatically sent to you via e-mail? Sign up here:

3. Wait until the giveaway is over on April 30th, 2012 for the winner to be chosen at random.

A couple of basic rules. You can only enter once. You must comment with a valid e-mail address where you can be reached. Your comment must be confirmed and approved. You must complete the objectives to be considered. You are responsible for providing your contact shipping information if you are chosen. Shipping restrictions to non US entrants may apply based on sponsor's policies. Giveaway watch selection based on sponsor's inventory and watch availability. All comments made after the end of the giveaway period will not be considered. If you are chosen as a winner you then have 24 hours to ensure receipt of your full shipping information or an alternative winner will be chosen. For the full terms and conditions, please click here.

Good luck, and thanks to USAgency Watches the sponsor of this Air Force One watch bundle giveaway here at aBlogtoRead.com!

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Baselworld Best: Timepieces To Watch In 2012

admin — Sun, 18 Mar 2012 07:02:53 +0000

Leaving Baselworld each year is bitter sweet because I tend to have such a good time. I don’t get to see even a third of what I would like to check out, and it is great to be among my friends and close colleagues for over a week. It is tiring however, and during final days you end up forgetting you are there for watches. I love it though, and am proud to be part of the world’s biggest watch show. Next year I have decided I need to attend the show with a posse. Who is with me? I can promise there will be some nice watch fondling going on.

So I keep getting asked what my impression of the 2012 show is/was, and what I liked the best. Always a tough question as I just admitted to not having seeing all there was to see. That might be unfair as I did check out the majority of the “important” stuff from the big brands we are all familiar with. Overall impressions? I think it is a mixed bag. Some brands are full steam ahead with lots of new product and distinct global directions, while other brands have really nothing new. I don’t mean little brands that innovate once each few years, I mean major brands that ought to really have new stuff to show.

At SIHH 2012 I painted the picture that conservatism was in, and that also meant fewer new products as brands try to gauge regional economies, tastes, and buying habits. What you see a lot of these days are “commercially viable” pieces. I wasn’t the first one to use that term. You are reading this, so I give you credit for putting the idea so eloquently. Basically it means you look at a watch and it looks pretty aesthetically familiar with a reasonably good design and features mixed with a reasonably good price. You then sort of shrug indifferently and think to yourself, “it bores me, but it will sell.” That pretty much sums up what your standard commercially viable watch is.

Are there innovative wonders and crazy pieces? Certainly, though more and more you get the feeling that they are just media bait and not serious parts of the brand’s direction or income. A great example are the high-end pieces from Tag Heuer. Their $50,000 plus watches are pretty awesome by most standards but they don’t make very many, and they are almost economically insignificant for the brand’s bottom line. We write about them because they are cool and because Tag Heuer’s top-level management think they are cool - but they don’t really represent the volume side of the brand. What will make Tag Heuer money are the sale of their commercially viable new Formula 1 watches, their relatively attractive new lady’s watches smiled upon by Cameron Diaz (their newest brand ambassador), and entry-level luxury watches like the Aquaracer and Carrera.

The Swatch Group is a curious situation right now. Some of their brands are doing awesome with great new watches, as well as lots of new watches. That includes entities like Omega, Hamilton, and Rado. Then you have a brand like Glashutte Original – which I happen to like a whole lot – that save for one highly limited, super high-end watch, has nothing new for this year. They aren’t the only one like that. I chalk this up to some direction lacking at the CEO level and other issues that occurred as a result of Hayek senior’s passing away. It will clear itself up, but it will take a few years. There are good people over there, but some of the brands need more dedicated leadership, or more of a push to innovate each year. Having said all that, what I did see from some of the less prolific for 2012 Swatch Group brands was good – there just wasn’t enough of it to satiate my hunger for watches.

The Rolex situation is funny. If you recall when I discussed the new Sky-Dweller here, I posited that it was great to see an innovative movement from Rolex that expands on their offerings and provides something really new for them (in the modern sense). At the same time I didn’t run across too many people who liked how the thing looked. It will probably sell because it is a Rolex, and it is new – granted. Given that, I think that many people were disappointed because they loved the idea of the Sky-Dweller, but the execution just wasn’t what people expected. Who knows, maybe next year everyone will change their mind and compete to be the piece’s biggest fans.

Meeting with little guys like MB&F and De Bethune, and you’d think they are the center of the watch world given how cool their stuff is, and how much they are appreciated in the industry. What people like me can easily forget is that between the two brands they sell under 1000 watches per year – when millions and millions of watches are sold each year overall. It is true, being so involved in the watch world will naturally have you gravitate to the most interesting people and products – no matter how exclusive they are. We need to remember is that it is the high volume brands who are keeping watches on most people’s wrists. For that reason I think it is highly ironic and amusing that Casio presents their watches a few feet away from some of the most high-end and exclusive timepieces in the world. I actually think that is wonderful, because I get as excited about new Casio watches as I do the next greatest $200,000 timepiece creation.

Fashion editors and people of those ranks continue to sully the watch world with their questions on style trends and what is going be hot for spring and summer. Brands like to have the people writing for mass audience consumer publications that they advertise in come to the watch shows because it would be awesome for them to get some actual editorial coverage. That unfortunately isn’t going to happen because the average writer and reader of those publications doesn’t know about or care about watches (for the most part, and there are some really great notable exceptions). Unless they are colorful under $50 watches which do get a fair amount of coverage it seems. I am actually glad that the fashion people are there because I want them to see the world I love so much, but my advice to watch brands is to stop pretending that you are fashion brands. Be stalwart that you release nice new watches each year based on a range of factors that hopefully don’t include fashion trends or what is going to look “so hot” in the fall with orange and brown. I know I sound like a snob saying that, but that isn’t what makes this industry tick. This is an industry of half marketing people, have engineers. Each focused on making marketable wrist machines that tell the time for a long time. These items aren’t meant to be (for the most part) disposable, and are intended as lifetime investments. The current fashion industry is about disposable clothes and quickly changing color and style trend announcements so that they have something to actually “write” (list) about. That just doesn’t meld with the watch industry, and I hope it never does.

As I step off my semi-annual (weekly) soap box, allow me to direct your attention to some watches. Cool watches that made me giggle with glee and ponder the best ways to covertly remove (without being noticed) money from Credit Suisse in order to fund a couple of horological acquisitions. This is just a small list of those watches that leaving the Baselworld 2012 show remain on my mind.

1. Bell & Ross Vintage BR 126 Black Bezel Watch

It isn’t a wild concept watch or something you want to wear only when you feel like a weekend military pilot. This version of the Bell & Ross BR 126 is just a sexy daily wear that is a little bit retro, and a lot of bit sexy. Comes on a strap or new metal bracelet. Beautiful.

2. Breguet Classique Chronometrie 10 Hz Watch

The Type XXII originally housed Breguet’s in-house 10 hertz mechanical movement. There it was used for a chronograph, here is used for accurate timing and horological interest. The iconic look of the Classique collection melds with the ultra modern high-beat movement for a quirky but satisfying result.

3. Breitling Chronomat GMT 44 Watch

I don’t say this very often, but in this instance I am happy they made it smaller. The original Breitling Chronomat GMT was just too big for my wrist (it does happen). Down to 44mm wide, and given its already very wide and long lugs, this piece wears very well on me. The watch has an in-house made Breitling movement, chronograph, GMT, and style that is 110% Breitling.

4. Bulgari Chronosprint Endurer Watch on Bracelet

The watch isn’t new, but the original was delayed a few years. New for this year is the bracelet – and it makes a great watch even better. From the Daniel Roth collection, the Bulgari Chronosprint Endurer is a beautiful watch with a very unique story and movement. The new bracelet is similar to what you get on an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and just makes this killer watch even nicer in my opinion.

5. Devon Tread 2 Watch

The nerd in me loves this, but is starting to realize that the Tread is no longer a nerd watch. With a smaller size and improved wearing experience, the Tread 2 opens up the concept to a whole new world of watch lovers that can enjoy the electro-mechanical belt system concept. Now with more color options as well.

6. Hamilton Pan Europ Watch

Last year Hamilton released the Pan Europ as a limited edition watch with a blue dial. It was successful enough to gain a spot as a non-limited production piece for 2012. The nicest model has a black face and the price is totally right. Inside the watch is a base Valjoux 7750 that gets bumped up to a 60 hour power reserve exclusively for Hamilton. Gorgeous design that mixes masculinity with history in a really satisfying way.

7. Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Watch

It does remind you of Roger Dubuis’ skeleton tourbillions – and that is OK. Hublot makes a skeletonized tourbillon version of the Classic Fusion in a good-size case that feels modern and classic, while also feeling very high-end and tasteful. Very thin to boot.

8. HYT H1 Watch

People gasped at the low, low price of about $45,000. Amazing! Exotic, cool, modern, and the ultimate example of how a new high-end watch brand can hit the ground running. Almost guaranteed to help start conversations even with non watch people. Not everything with green goo can claim that.

9. Omega Speedmaster Racing Watch

First what I don’t really like – 40mm wide. Everything else I am in love with. Enough to be OK with a 40mm wide watch (I'd like it bigger). An incredibly attractive entry-level Omega Speedmaster collection that finally has a Co-Axial escapement and silicon balance spring. Hard to not love this one in its many color offerings.

10. Seiko Astron Watch

The original quartz watch name gets recycled. Finally a daily-wear watch you can pretty much rely on to be fully accurate anywhere on the planet (with its GPS signal syncing), and that requires pretty much no attention or adjusting. Just a super solid sober high-tech sport watch from the king of super solid high-tech sport watches.

11. Zenith Pilot Doublematic Watch

At first I didn’t like the look of the watch even though I liked the functionality. Then I started to play with the Pilot Doublematic and I put it on my wrist… at that point I was hooked. So many functions that are actually useful, great in-house made movement. And a price that feels appropriate.

12. Sinn EZM 10 Watch

German indestructible tool watches don’t get much better than this. A proprietary chronograph module makes for awesome functionality, in a case that is light and hard. Sapphire crystal bezel inlay, and the feeling that you and this watch are going to see some heavy action and walk out just fine.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Are Educated Watch Buyers More Valuable Customers?

admin — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 08:04:15 +0000

Like all industries, the world of timepieces is an ecosystem. Watches are designed, produced, and eventually purchased. That latter part of the necessary cycle is one that is complex and difficult to understand - especially for watch writers and enthusiasts who typically have only their own experiences to reference. Most of the time, the relationship that brands have with journalists and consumers is very different and separate than the relationship that watch retailers have with journalists and consumers.

This separation isn't always a good idea and often causes a large gap between the perceptions people buying watches have and those that the people responsible for communicating about watches have. An overall goal of mine is to better integrate the business of the watch industry with media on the watch industry. As part of this larger goal I recently conducted a series of surveys designed to learn more about the watch retail environment, experiences that retailers have on a daily basis, and what role consumer education plays in the sales of high-end timepieces.

One result of the surveys was the discovery of an important fact that I cannot stress enough. Whether it is surprising or not, the overwhelming consensus among everyone I interviewed was that watch-educated consumers not only buy more watches, but buy more expensive watches. Education in this context really means how much information and knowledge a specific consumer has about timepieces in general, mechanical movements, and brand history/values. We are not talking about book smarts or IQ.

To best present the findings of the survey, I will list a series of questions or statements and show you what key retailers had to say in regards to them. I want to thank the following people and businesses for their time and input. Thank you to Roberto Chiapelloni at Manfredi in Greenwich, Connecticut, Rob Caplan at Topper Jewelers in Burlingame, California, Greg Simonian at Westime in Los Angeles, California, Jasmine Bapic at Audemars Piguet in Miami, Florida, and Larry Barkley at Tourneau in New York, New York.

The Importance Of Educated Watch Sales People

The above watch retailers were chosen by me for a range of reasons. They are either very large stores or have a reputation for having quality sales people. Each of them responded as proudly having highly educated watch sales people or at the least have policies that make efforts to educate their sales people. Stores like Manfredi ensure their staff take part in learning activities as offered from representatives of the brands, and most have senior salespeople who travel to the brand's headquarters and visit the large watch shows.

Each of the stores explained that being able to talk on the same level with consumers about watches is very important. Manfredi for example even has a watchmaker in the store who can discuss movement complications directly with the consumers. They explain that knowledgeable salespeople help consumers "feel more confident about their purchases."

All the stores explained that even when a salesperson isn't as educated as they could be, passion and enthusiasm is an essential part of increasing consumer confidence. Topper explains how enthusiasm helps consumers want to hear more about the details of watches and the brands. Audemars Piguet explains how more and more customers are coming into their brand boutiques with high levels of information - which raises the education bar for the staff inside of retail stores.

Westime agrees, indicating that especially in the US, more and more customers each year "are showing interest in the history and inner workings of watches." It is therefore necessary to meet the level of expectations from repeat and potential customers. At Tourneau, "a major part of the [sales] ceremony depends on [the salesperson] selling the client on the passion of the brand and their DNA." The overall message here is that salespeople who are educated about watches in general and the product in particular seem to be a highly important part of the sales process for educated and non-educated consumers a like.

Educated Consumers Buy More Watches Overall

"Absolutely" was a very common response to the question of whether educated consumers are more valuable and buy more watches. Each of the retailers also stated that consumers are interested in the inner workings of watches - especially those looking at higher-end pieces. Tourneau claims that "over 90% of [consumers] are very interested in [the history, function, and technical specifications of watches]." They explain that for customers, "one of the joys of owning a complicated timepiece is being able to communicate about it to their friends and family."

Audemars Piguet suggests that "an educated customer is even more valuable when they are able to share their knowledge and appreciation with others." This would effectively make all educated brand enthusiasts mini brand ambassadors. Audemars Piguet also shares that education "is one of the most critical factors" in making a decision to buy an expensive watch.

All retailers mentioned increasingly educated watch consumers showing up in stores over the last few years. Manfredi and Topper both shared that they are extremely impressed by the knowledge and information many consumers have before they walk into their stores. While Audemars Piguet stresses that "there is no such thing as an easy sale," Westime explains that knowledgeable customers make for more simple transactions. These "customers know exactly what they are looking for, and once they find it, they buy it." Topper welcomes brands with large promotional campaigns that often drive customers into the store ("watches with enormous marketing machines behind them sell themselves"), but also finds joy in teaching customers about less well-known or niche brands.

The overall picture given by the retailers seems to be that customers are overwhelmingly interested in both the inner workings of watches and brand stories and histories. This would contradict statements that many consumers (at least in the US) buy just for looks or brand names. Customers expect a high level of knowledge from retailers, but often because they have a high-level of knowledge themselves. Being able to connect mentally with a retailer who has a product that a consumer wants is a key factor in purchases.

A further interesting finding is that all the retailers reported an increase in sales when customers are offered brand or product education in the store. Topper for example warns that sales people must carefully gauge what customers are interested in, but everyone suggested that after being intelligently presented with a product and thus educated on that product - customers are more likely to make purchases. This means that consumers who have knowledge on products either before or after coming into a store are more likely to make purchases. Audemars Piguet says it well when stating that "these days, higher-priced watches are not sold to those who do not understand what they are buying."

Most Higher-End Watches Are Purchased By Educated Consumers

Westime reminds us that most people buying very high-end watches are not first time watch customers - "they usually own at least one other fine timepiece before they are interested in obtaining a very exclusive watch." Once again, the resounding response from all retailers was "absolutely" when asked whether it was educated consumers who purchased the most expensive product.

Manfredi explains that "once a client understands what has gone into the making of an exquisite timepiece and the value that it translates into - it helps with the 'sticker shock' some clients may experience." They further suggest that "for us, the sale of high-end timepieces is frequently to clients who are educated about watches, the more high-end [the watch], the more education [is found in clients]."

Tourneau shares that higher-priced watches are "sold more to clients with a high watch eduction." The consensus among all the retailers is that high watch education is strongly linked to buying the most expensive watches. Tourneau among others suggests that much of this is due to those consumers understanding the value involved in the time and effort required to make the best watches. It seems to really come down to educating people about the value proposition of those watches and having a very good understanding of what their money is buying.

Retailers Can Make Or Break The Sales Experience

Tourneau states that for them, "the largest majority [of customers] have an idea of what they want, but not what watch brand can meet their needs." Topper mentions how their goal is to understand and connect with everyone who comes into their store or contacts them. Each customer has different interests, but not being able to give them the right information can turn off even someone who wants to buy something. "The salesperson's job isn't to sell the product to them, but instead to learn about how they feel about the thing they came in to see."

Sometimes a consumer will enter a store interested in one product, but this may not be the one that actually meets their needs. There is a difference between an informed and educated consumer. The best retailers will be able to accurately identify what a consumer wants and match them with the right watch. This not only can help match a customer with the right timepiece, but will also increase their level of education. Failing to do this can prevent someone from buying a watch.

Manfredi amongst others explains how at other times customers come into stores with incorrect information about watches saying that "there are clients who can develop ideas about brands that can be hard to overcome." Topper explains that success for them is in helping a customer find the product they want versus selling them a specific watch. Education can only take a consumer so far and neglectful sales staff can hamper good business.

Watch consumers who visit retailers with knowledge about watches are often being educated by the watch media - these days mostly online. Watch retailers are an essential part of offering consumers hands-on experiences and offering answers to questions that consumers have. Though more often than not, watch retailers are purchase stops rather than destinations for watch consumers - and they must be given good reasons to enter watch stores in the first place. Retailers, brands, and the watch media should work together more closely to better understand what the customer experience is like, and how to better improve consumer education and interest in watches.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

No related posts.

World Watch Report 2012

admin — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 19:19:41 +0000

The World Watch Report is a very important survey of online activity for the luxury watch industry. I am also a contributor to the annual reports and would like to share with you some interesting excerpts from the 2012 edition of the World Watch Report (WWR). The survey looks at a range of brands that are considered haute horology brands, and creates analytics and graphs based on a lot of information that they gather. It is mainly aimed at people in the watch industry but should prove interesting to dedicated watch lovers as well.

If you click on these graphics they should expand and you can see some interesting excerpts. For more info you can visit their website via the link above.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

SIHH 2012 Watch Show Summary: Hello China, Goodbye China

admin — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 08:04:32 +0000

SIHH is a bit like the automobile traffic in Italy. It is crowded and there is only the semblance of organization. Despite a series of reasons why you might thing the entire system should not work, it does. The mania of a trade show convention is ironically melded with the attempt at having a high society event. The contradictions of the show shadow the very industry it serves - and somehow we love it for that. By the way, a shout out to IWC for their incredibly intricate booth design. No detail was spared to make their booth look like a bona-fide Hollywood set on board an aircraft carrier complete with a half jet, fog machines, uniforms, and of course pilot watches.

Leaving the 2012 show I have a number of things to report. The most important thing to remember is that 2012 does not represent the plans of 2011. Watch products generally take about three years to plan and develop. For that reason SIHH 2012 is really about what was going on in 2009 and a bit after. At that time the economy was in the dumps and the watch industry was serious about self preservation and new lucrative markets. China then, like now, was hot, and brands were more interested in saving money versus being risky.

For that reason 2012 is not about novelty as much as it is about minor evolutions and repeating things that worked in the past. New products are often line extensions, minor refreshes, and highly limited exotic art watches that don't tend to require years of mechanical R&D - though there are exceptions to that statement. The general consensus among retails and journalists alike was not one of excitement, but one of sobriety and anticipation for the future. A lot like how people felt last year actually. We saw a lot of salable watches but not that many to stimulate the mainstream high-end buyer's senses. The most special watches out there are so limited only a few people on the planet will be able to enjoy them. These mostly featured artisan created dials and special artwork. Great for the jewelry and art lover, but out of reach for most humans. Personally I want to see at least a healthy handful of exciting new watches that I might conceivably be able to own some day. Those did exist for 2012, but calling them "new" would be a matter of argumentation.

Aside from brands not wanting to spend big money on products that might not sell there is another reason for the proliferation of ho-hum three-hand round-cased watches that seem to be so popular lately - we've been told that is what the Chinese consumer wants. In fact, for the last few years the Swiss watch industry has been trying to produce what it thinks, whilst sitting and pondering the question in the Swiss Jura, that Chinese consumers want. The market there is watch crazy - but not always for the reasons you might think. Chinese demand seemed at first to be very classic, wanting small round watches from the best brands. "Hello China" is about the European watch industry doing its best to accommodate the tricky Asian consumer who is about brand, status, and a display of wealth.

The irony of course is that the Chinese consumer is quickly evolving and is interested in Swiss products exactly because they are not Chinese. If you make a Swiss watch that is directed too much toward the Asian market, you begin to destroy why that market wanted the product in the first place. Nevertheless, this year saw almost all brands offer watches dedicated to the year of the dragon - each more amazing than the last. Brands like Piaget and Audemars Piguet had limited edition watches with wonderfully hand engraved dragons on the dials. Actually, the majority of brands had some type of dragon themed watch. Parmigiani on the other hand has some amazing dragon themed animated clock sitting in the center of its booth that stole all the attention. What is interesting is that apparently the Chinese consumer who is interested in a high-end watch with a dragon on it doesn't just want a watch with a dragon on it... but wants a watch with the most intense and outlandish representation of a dragon on it complete with luxury materials and techniques. This goes beyond the mere appreciation of symbolism and tradition. This is worship and the watch brands are competing with each other to produce the most decadent idols.

Last year's attempt at making hot selling watches in China was to reduce diameter sizes. There are other reasons for this aside from perceived Asian tastes - such as cost cutting and the popularity of vintage timepieces - but it was generally agreed that small watches were made primarily to pacify the hungry Chinese watch market. The brands then turned on the hype machines to "educate" and persuade fashion writers that "small watches were now in fashion." To a large degree they succeeded, and the well-dressed elite in New York followed suit penning that a real man wears a "reasonably sized watch." I disagreed with their definition of what a reasonable size was.

My own thoughts included in articles over the last year was that small watches were not what the consumer in the West wanted. I proposed that the quickly evolving Chinese consumer would adapt to Western-sized watches quickly, and that fashion pressure (if even relied upon by consumers), would not be a force to get people en masse to want smaller timepieces. The under 30mm wide Ralph Lauren Slim Classique Square from past year was penned as a men's watch that women could also wear. 38mm wide watches were common, and it looked like 44mm wide plus watches were gonna be stigmatized.

This year at SIHH the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique Square has been renamed the 867 and is solely a femme timepiece. In fact, a larger version of it was released for men. Imagine that. Basically, not even a year later the small watch movement fizzled out and died. Not just that, but 2012 is all about the bigger classic watch. I feel a bit vindicated, and the guys at GQ can enjoy their words with some beef heart tartare and candied white asparagus served on sheets of vegetable paper.

The good "big" news is that brands spent a lot of time focusing on how to improve their current collections and size mattered this year. This meant new styles, colors, and design refreshes based on the most popular models. I am happy to report that modern sized men's watches are back by popular demand. Over at Audemars Piguet the Royal Oak got a refresh and a larger size up to 41mm. A. Lange & Sohne released three new Lange 1 watches with an increase in the size of its Grande Lange 1. IWC increased sizes for a lot of it pilot watches and focused mostly on diameters from 46-48mm wide. Piaget released more versions of its 43mm wide Altiplano 43 Automatic, and the mainstay of Baume & Mercier's Capeland watch collection is 44mm wide. Panerai of course is a purveyor of larger pieces, and even Vacheron Constantin's new thin Malte watch wasn't too narrow. Roger Dubuis' new Pulsion sports watch is likely over 45mm wide, while Cartier came out with a killer XL version of their new Tank Anglaise watch for men. I wouldn't say that super-sized watches are back, but rather that brands have accepted the realization that the majority of men want watches that are 40mm wide plus, and that 42mm is really the bottom for how big a sports watch should be.

An interesting point on this was made to me at Girard-Perregaux. This is actually their final year at SIHH and next year they will be returning to Baselworld due to their new ownership status. Anyhow, CEO Mr. Macaluso commented on how at GP they see beyond China. There is a realization that economic growth in China will slow and eventually level out. True enough news reports from China indicate that 2011 saw a slowed increase in economic growth already. Plus, as the nation's "new rich" become just "rich" their buying habits will tame and as watch consumers, while their tastes will mature and become more sophisticated. What that means is that the Chinese consumer will quickly develop a taste for what people in the US and Europe want. Even if they don't, the US and Europe cannot be ignored as essential markets. If a brand puts all their eggs in Chinese-made baskets.... well you know how the story goes. This is the "Goodbye China" part of the story. Not that the watch industry is at all done with its Asian love-affair, but rather that it realizes there is an entire world out there, and that these are European brands that are making watches primarily to suit their own tastes.

General size increases and a focus on global products is more of what the watch industry is focusing on. The first 10 years of the new millennium were the best of times and the worst of times for the Swiss watch industry in the modern sense. There is too much of a bad taste associated with the previous economic crisis for them to allow for it to happen again if the Chinese market should suddenly shift without much notice. The lack of too many new products and slight product refinements that typified 2012 are a sign that the industry is being very careful, biding their time, and focusing on strengthening things they are already good at. That is the moral of the story for most products, so what about the wild stuff that was there?

Here is a little SIHH 2012 participating brand run down to show you what wild or exciting things are worth your attention. If I didn't mention a brand then they didn't have anything exciting enough to make a list of this type. Here it is:

A. Lange & Sohne: Delighted me with their beautifully useful and straight forward Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar automatic watch.
Audemars Piguet: Nothing else makes me want to pay gold prices for a steel watch like the Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm watch. The Royal Oak Offshore Diver in forged carbon is a smash hit as well.
Cartier: Their best watches were for women! Though, the Rotonde Minute Repeater Tourbillon was hard not to like and the Rotonde Annual Calendar will do nicely in stores.
Girard-Perregaux: I love those swoopy cased 1945 XL (or is it XXL) watches now with a slick chronograph option. An under $15,000 Foudroyante Rattrapante is sure to catch collectors' attention as well.
Greubel Forsey: One tourbillon and a beautiful blue dial is all I have to say. Oddly enough the word "Magic" does seem to fit into the title of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain watch.
IWC: The new Spitfire watches are the best they have ever made and now include in-house made movements. None of the new Pilots actually feel new to the brand given their familiar looks, but IWC now more than ever makes the best high-end large aviation style watch around.
Jaeger-LeCoultre: This brand would get a long list of favorites but if choosing just one you have to just walk straight to the Duometre Spherotourbillon for a mix of exotic complication and wearability.
Montblanc: A cool look straight outta Villeret-design mixes with contemporary style for the Timewriter II that has a very novel system for measuring 1/1000 of a second with its chronograph.
Parmigiani: The Torics... and all the best ones are already sold out.
Piaget: There is something so sexy and alluring about the new skeletonized Altiplano - just well done all around.
Ralph Lauren: Rl finally realizes how cool the Sporting watch is and it gets a lot more interesting for 2012. We are talking a gun metal style case and versions with hip colors. The ladies get an ultra lux art deco style version of the 867 (Slim Classique Square) - strictly limited of course.
Richard Mille: Stare in amazement at the all sapphire case of the highly limited RM 56 and then laugh at its comical $1.65 million price.
Roger Dubuis: The Pulsion Tourbillon equipped with Roger Dubuis' skeletonzied tourbillon makes me want to be an evil oligarch all over again.
Vacheron Constantin: If I had to choose it would be the amazingly bold looking super Vacheron Constantin styled Patrimony 14 Day Tourbillon watch.
Van Cleef & Arpels: The literally romantic concept of the collection is a bit girly for me, but I love the mechanism. The new Poetic Wish has a minute repeater whose gongs are attached to the rear-mounted sapphire crystal as a new means of increasing harmonic resonance for the audible complication.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.