When I first saw this watch I was trying to determine what it reminded me of. Then I realized the colors on the dial of white, yellow, and orangey red struck me as very Speed Racer. That seemed to make sense for a racing themed watch called the Timeattack Chronograph by Dievas. Made in Germany now with their tougher steel and PVD processes, Dievas makes an assortment of rather handsome, rather price effective timepieces.

Much of the watch says "diver." The case is water resistant to 300 meters and even has screw down pushers and a crown. It has a 5mm thick sapphire crystal and also comes with a water-proof "NyTech" textile strap. Deivas also throws in a NATO strap. So basically it is a modern retro racer diver with all the boldness of a neon diner signage.

The Timeattack is placed in a 43mm wide steel case. It looks like many of the Dievas Vortex watch cases and fits well within the brand. You might say that the case looks almost too much like the Vortex case actually. The rotating bezel is nice looking and has a bit of a vintage design to it. I've always liked the look of mostly black bezels on steel cases. Notice anything different about this bezel? Well it has hour markers on it, and not minute markers. Does that mean it is meant for counting up to 12 hours versus 60 minutes?

The dial is pretty interesting. I like the design of the subdial hands and dials themselves. There is something almost 1970s about them, but I like that. While the main dial hands are a bit short and aviator in style, the subdial hands are proportional and quirky. It is also interesting how the chronograph subdials steal all the attention on the dial, but that reading the time is still pretty simple.

Inside of the Dievas Timeattack is your friendly neighborhood Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement. Dievas claims that they use a top grade 7750 in there, and that they regulate it. Overall a pretty decent watch and even though it is on the higher-end for a Dievas, it is a still a decent value at a price of $1,880.

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Listen to Episode 94 on the HourTimeShow.com website here.

Download the MP3 here.

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A surprising new member of the Hublot watch family this year will be the new Classic Fusion Extra-Thin Skeleton. It is relatively thin (especially for a Hublot), it is relatively simple (just the time), and it has a very nice looking modern skeletonized movement and dial. Overall a winner if the look suits you.

Recently the Classic Fusion collection came out (covered here) and was an interesting mix of Big Bang and more traditional watch looks. I had some nice things to say about it, but this Extra-Thin Skeleton model is much more impressive. I actually like that the hands are not skeletonized. Speaking of which, there is this huge trend in people making skeletonized hands and I really don't get it. Do people really go so ga-ga over skeletonized hands?

Skeletonzied movements on the other hands are much more interesting. Here, Hublot seems to take a base Unitas style manually-wound movement and built it using a new framework with technical looking bridges and a hip modern feel. This sure isn't your grandfather's skeletonized watch. The movement is called the Hublot caliber HUB1300 and is just 2.90mm thick with a 90 hour power reserve. It only has the time with subsidiary seconds dial. Overall it looks fantastic and very nice with the Classic Fusion case and style.

The dial has nicely sized hands that aren't too short. Short hands on this watch would kill it for me - but Hublot doesn't fail at all in this department. While the movement is the dial, Hublot is still able to apply sizable hour markers to ensure legibility is high. This is done with a sapphire plate over the movement I believe. An interesting design touch is that the Hublot uses a thin black outline for its logo to ensure it sticks out. I quite like that.

Offered in both titanium and 18k King Gold (basically red gold), the Classic Fusion Extra-Thin Skeleton comes in a 45mm wide case attached to a black alligator (with a rubber lining) strap. The case is water resistant to 50 meters and looks real nice on the wrist. Hublot really did an excellent job with these and both versions look nice. They will actually be offered as limited editions. There will be 1000 pieces of the Hublot Classic Fusion Extra-Thin Skeleton in titanium and 500 pieces of the watch in King Gold. Look for them later in 2012.

TECHNICAL DETAILS from Hublot:

References 515.NX.0170.LR - Titanium, 1000-piece limited series
515.OX.0180.LR - 18K King Gold, 500-piece limited series
Case "Classic Fusion" - Diameter 45 mm
Titanium or 18K King Gold, polished and satin-finished
Bezel Titanium or 18K King Gold, with vertical satin finish
6 H-shaped countersunk, polished & locked titanium screws
Crystal Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective coating
Bezel Lug Black composite resin
Crown Polished titanium or 18K King Gold, with Hublot logo
Case-back Satin-finished titanium or satin-finished 18K King Gold with sapphire crystal, interior anti-reflective coating
Water resistance 5 ATM, i.e. approx 50 metres
Dial Sapphire with silvered or red gold Hublot logo transfer
Anti-reflective coating on topside/underside
Polished & rhodium-plated or red gold-plated indexes
Hands Polished & rhodium-plated or red gold-plated
Movement HUB1300 hand-wound skeleton
Small seconds at 7 o'clock
Thickness 2.90 mm
Components 123
Jewels 23
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 Vib/h)
Power reserve Approximately 90 hours
Wristlet Black alligator strap stitched onto black rubber
Clasp Deployant buckle in black PVD steel or 18K red gold

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I am in Switzerland – in the Jura mountains to be exact – and it is snowing. As a California guy I don’t see much snow. In fact, the only times I have really seen snow in my life has been in Europe. The place looks like something out of a Christmas card. There is white covering the ground and lining the trees while quaint little buildings spew puffs of smoke out of their chimneys. It is all very charming in a sort of storybook way. It is also the perfect setting for watch making, and the winter window views of the men and women who work at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

I heard some interesting history which helps to explain at least part of why there are so many watch brands up here. The mostly agrarian culture (traditionally) didn’t have much to do during the long winters. So an indoor activity would have made the most sense. This area also has relatively easy to mine metal ore deposits which the people here have been using for a long time to make metal tools and things like musical instruments. One use for their tool making skills and available metal was watch production. So out here in the middle of nowhere, Switzerland, near the French border, is where a number of world-class watch brands are based. One of them is Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Anyone who is at all interested in watches knows the name - whether you call them JLC, Jaeger, or Jaeger-LeCoultre. It is even OK if you use the German or French pronunciation of “Jaeger.” The brand itself is a marriage of two brands (Jaeger and LeCoultre) which came together years ago. Since the early-mid 1900^th century they have been making watches in Le Sentier, and are one of the largest operations in the area today.

Around the corner from the building is a large parking lot for all the employee cars. There are a healthy number of people who work at the manufacture. While a few of them have desk jobs, most of these people are watch makers, parts makers, and machine operators. It is a factory in every sense of the word. They have everything from loud and oily machine halls to sanitized rooms where watch makers sit on the top floors enjoying the best natural light.

Exploring JLC you find everything from rows of organized horological desks to oven rooms where they bake screws to blue them. That latter operation is quite rare – to produce your own flame blued screws. In-house at the manufacture they do everything from assemble escapement forks to making all of their own cases. Walking through the machinery filled rooms is something any JLC fan should do. One of the most impressive things you need to see hands-on is the amount of industrial steps required to build a single watch from start to finish.

A case for example alone requires dozens of steps. Some people have the notion that with modern technology you just throw a chunk of metal into a fancy cutting machine and it comes out perfectly cut and polished – ready for action. The Reverso case is a great example of something that involves many parts and dozens of small operations. An operation is having that part placed in a special machine or process. Such operations range from being set in dedicated machines whose only purpose it to drill two small holes in the case - to having the lugs finished and polished in several steps by both machine and hand.

Jaeger-LeCoultre also of course makes their own movements – that is sort of the point of the place when it comes down to it. But the larger point is that they not only make their own movements, but they really make most all of the even tiniest parts, cases, and many of their hands and dials. Having everything under one (well several) roof really gives Jaeger-LeCoultre some special strengths as a brand. Strengths that you can probably see in their products.

That strength comes from a sense of integration and verticalization. When the same place houses the people that design the watches and the ones that build them, you can not only keep prices reasonable, but ensure a fluid cohesion in design and execution. That means Jaeger can not only build more complicated watches, but develop them faster. It also means that much of the time cases and movements are designed to go together very well.

Movement design and manufacturing is an extremely tedious and labor intensive process. It takes something like three years minimum to develop a new caliber from the ground up. The hardest part after the engineering is completed is building the tools and programming the machines that will actually build the parts. Special machines at Jaeger-LeCoultre combine human and robotic labor to carefully test parts for adherence to tolerances (which are tiny). It can take months just to develop the machinery that builds the parts needed to make movements.

As you should know, movement components are made with extremely precision. Those in the best movements are carefully hand-finished and decorated individually. Even Jaeger-LeCoultre's more entry-level (if you even want to call it that) timepieces are given hours of hands-on treatment during the manufacturing process. It is easy to take things like tiny pins and gears for granted until you see them being made, evaluated, tested, and polished before being hidden under other metal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has two special decoration departments. One is for engraving and another is for enameling. If you are interested in super detailed tiny artwork then enameling is for you. In-house artists create perfect paintings under microscopes that are oven-tempered to be permanent. They are gorgeous and seemingly impossible. Much of these and the engraving work is applied to Reverso watches. Many of the Reverso models have solid casebacks that can be flipped over. These surfaces are prime real estate for artistic customization. If you have the means, gets yourself a Reverso watch with a bespoke painting on it. you won't be dissappointed.

In addition to wrist watches Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to produce many versions of their famous Atmos clocks - and they do it right here in Le Sentier. The Atmos clock is an amazing device that is powered by changes in air temperature. Fluctuation of just one degree per day is enough to keep the clock going forever bascially. The Atmos department is a wonderland for collectors of the famous clocks. The department not only builds new clocks, but also tests them and services ones sent in for repairs. There are endless Atmos variants from all eras in rows of wood cases that show them off. It is very interesting to see the different clocks and understand the technology that in many ways does offer a truly perpetual mechanism. Atmos clocks are also strategically set up throughout the manufacture on walls to provide the time to employees.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is easily one of the most impressive watch manufactures that I have ever been to. The environment is both modern yet respectful of the brands' storied history. It is also able to do so without coming across as being a brand that too much rests on their laurels. Jaeger-LeCoultre is a connoisseur's brand that almost anyone can enjoy. You won't find a lot of lifestyle marketing for their products, but you will find a lot of classy, timeless watches and some of the coolest sport watches around. Jaeger-LeCoultre just really seems to make sense up here in the calm mountains - now I need to get back to civilization.

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I have no idea what manner of space robot warrior fighter is supposed to wear a watch like this. Now as a limited edition model with two camouflage dial options, the RSW Diving Tool watch gets even more distinct. I originally wrote about the RSW Diving Tool watch here when it first came out.

A bit larger than the Bell & Ross BR01, this piece takes the military square style watch a few steps further and offers something that would seem pretty suitable as a prop in Avatar. The steel case is 46.2mm wide (16.45mm thick) and offered in a brushed finish or in PVD black. The dial background colors include camo "woodland" and camo "oceanic" in the newer pixelated camouflage style. It makes for a fun and cartoony look, especially for those who want to look at their watches and smirk.

As a diving watch the piece has a nice looking dial with very legible hands. I love that massive minute hand and the hour markers, those are clever in their design in my opinion. The case has a rotating bezel and is water resistant to 300 meters with a sapphire crystal. It might also act as a diving weight! No, not really. You might be asking yourself, "why does a diving watch need camouflage?" Well, it doesn't. Not in the least, but it is sorta cool. And if you are diving with a camo watch then you  know that maybe, just maybe, it will be useful on one of your weekend warrior missions in the brush.

Inside the RSW Diving Tool Camo watches is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. Pretty standard, but fine. I think that the price of these watches is actually quite fair, and if you recall these Camo versions of the Diving Tool watches are limited edition pieces. According to RSW there will be 49 pieces for each dial - I don't know if that means 49 total, or 49 for the PVD versions, and PVD for the naked steel versions. The limited edition number of the collection is right on the dial. Note how the watch render below is a mistake because they use the Camo three-hand dial on an RSW Diving Tool Chronograph watch case.

RSW will offer the Diving Tool Camo watches (reference family # 7130) in a Pelican-style case with a rubber strap, NATO-style strap, and a matching camo Swiss pocket knife. Just don't drop the pocket knife in the wrong terrain or you may never find it again. Prices are pretty reasonable at 2,245 Swiss Francs for the steel Camo versions and 2,345 Swiss Francs for the PVD black steel Camo versions.

See RSW watches on eBay here.

See RSW watches on Amazon here.

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Uniform Wares is certainly a watch brand worth looking into if the terms "modern, minimalist, contemporary, European, or understated" are terms you want associated with your wrist wear and overall look. Their watches have simple numeric names and very simple designs that at the same time don't skimp on style or detailing. For review here is the Uniform Wares 250 Series watch (specifically model reference # 251/SG-01).

They call it a unisex watch and it is. The case is 39mm wide which is in that gray area between womens and mens sizes. It wears a bit large thanks to the long pointy lugs that help it extend from one end of your wrist to another. The 250 Series is a thematic update to the brand's previous 150 Series (which is no longer in production). Pretty much everything has been upgraded, especially the dial. Thankfully, that is the best part of this watch. Uniform Wares seems to describe it as a contemporary homage to post WWII men's watches. I honestly have no comment on that, but I quite like the looks of it. For me, it is an interesting combination of minimalist and non-minimalist features coming together for a satisfying result.

It does look like a rather minimalist design with a stark dial, no numerals, and two contrasting colors. At the same time it has full markers for all the hours and minutes, applied hour indicators, and an angled flange ring for added legibility. These features aren't typically found in most minimalist design watches. The result is a dial that is not only deep looking, but one that is also very easy to read. Over the dial is a sapphire crystal.

In addition to this black and white dial, there is a black and tan, as well as silvered dial available (each with a matching case color). The 250 Series watch case is in steel for all pieces. Here it is PVD gold toned and done with a brushed polish all around. There is a small minimalist crown and I like how the caseback is attached via a series of screws.The broad lugs work for male wrists but women should ensure that the watch is not so large so that the lugs protrude beyond their wrists for the 250 Series timepiece to look best on them.

Attached to the case is a surprisingly nice calf leather strap. It is a bit thicker than you might expect and the ardillon style clasp is one that makes it easy to put the watch on without even looking at it. Wearing comfort for the 250 Series is high, and if you like the design, it is a very stylish and noticeable timepiece on the wrist. It feels to me like a very upgraded Skagen or something like that. What I like about Uniform Wares is their attention to detail. They could easily make money via their designs alone and offer cheaper prices with lower quality watches. What they do however is pay a lot of extra attention to details and materials to come up with what they feel is the best watch possible given a relatively reasonable price. That shows a lot of pride in their product, and is something that I can appreciate. Even the presentation box - while nothing super fancy - is impressive.

Inside the 250 Series watch is a Swiss ETA 955.432 quartz movement. I don't think that Uniform Wares has produced a mechanical watch up until now, but they might in the future. For a two hand design I think that having a quartz movement is just fine. Overall I can easily recommend the 250 Series watch and any others from Uniform Wares if the quality of this model is telling for the entire collection. You need to be sold on the look, but I think enough people are. Price for the 250 Series watches are $600 in the European Union $500 outside of the European Union (no VAT) - and you can buy them online via their website.

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You can disagree with me but I think that watches containing hand-painted dials are pretty cool. Especially when the dials depict actually masculine things like dragons. Most of these watches seem to be of flowers, fairies, or family portraits. I can dig these. Not on a daily basis, but I can dig these pretty well.

Angular Momentum is no stranger to hand-painted enamel dials. I am pretty sure that such is their current bread and butter. This new set called the 9 Dragons Collection has nine different watches each with a unique style of dragon on the dials. Each dial is done in a "Verre Eglomise" miniature painting, with a small opening cut into them offering a view to a time disc. Telling the time in this way is not super precise, but offers a surprisingly clear and simple way of showing the time with a disc moving along a time-indicating needle.

My favorite part of the collection is that the watches depict different types of dragon styles. There are Asiatic, European, and modern fantasy style dragons (well all dragons are fantasy.) Angular Momentum is pretty clear that these are intended to sell in the Chinese market, but I think more than just Asian consumers can enjoy these.

The dials themselves are 30mm wide and placed into 38mm wide 18k rose gold cases. There is a black onyx cabochon in the crown. Attached to the watches are black alligator straps. I have seen watches with this type of dial decoration and painting before and they are very impressive. The colors really come out and the detailing is extremely impressive.

Inside the watch is an "historical" FHF 96 manually wound mechanical movement. These are pretty basic movements and I think the collection would have been better off with automatic movements. A nice display back and well-decorated movement would be nice to see. Overall really impressive though only if you like the dragon motifs. Prices for these watches are $40,000 each.

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A few months ago while with Maurice Lacroix at their manufacture I spent time with them going over small details on the prototype versions of these new Pontos S dive watches. We looked at little things like the polishes on the rings around subsidiary chronograph dials, colors, strap choices and other details on the dials. Going from idea, to computer design, to final product is challenging and requires a very close attention to even the little things. What I can say is that the best watch brands have product leads people who are both smart and highly independent when it comes to asserting changes to even small visual elements.

While I have yet to see the final versions, I like how the Pontos S fits in the Maurice Lacroix product line-up. It is a solid design that actually mixes retro and modern looks smoothly. It is like a futuristic version of a retro sport watch. The name of the watch is just Pontos S, but I think it would have been good for them to include "Dive" or "Diver" in the name - as that is essentially what it is.

Coming in several versions this good-looking casual sport watch is just what they needed. It has a lot of good detailing without a wildly expensive price, and a style that is both distinctive and mainstream. The case of the Pontos S is 43mm wide in steel with alternating polished and brushed surfaces. It has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 200 meters.

One of the coolest features of the watch is the system for turning the internal rotating bezel. Usually operated with a separate crown, the Pontos S has a crown for this feature that is integrated into the start/stop pusher for the chronograph. It works well and keeps the case from being too cluttered. Really nice little extra. Overall functionality is high as the dial is both decorative yet legible. The subsidiary dials are clear and easy to read, the hands and hour indicators are bold and applied with lume - it just all works rather well together if you are a fan of the design.

One unique look for the dial is the angular rehaut. Usually these are sloped or angled a lot, but here it looks like a shelf (despite a slightly angled chapter ring). Of course this rehaut turns as the internal rotating bezel. Maurice Larcoix will offer four dial versions of the Pontos S. Each is very similar but has a different "trim color." The trim color is used for part of the minute hand, tip of the chronograph seconds hand, part of the scale on the bezel, and for the bezel crown. The color options are gray, orange, blue, and red. Gray is probably going to be the most common color, but the others are appreciated.

The color options of course go best with the available striped NATO style strap. These have become really popular lately, and the cool black and blue or black and orange NATO straps look really neat with the watch. Being a bracelet guy I prefer the nice three-link bracelet with some nice finishing details and a comfortable fit. I think the gray version looks best with the bracelet. Overall I think Maurice Lacroix did a good job designing a fun sport watch that could also be dressed up a bit.

Inside the Pontos S is a Maurice Lacroix modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. They call it the ML112, but are at least very forthright about the fact that it is a base 7750. The Pontos S is a strong mainstream sport watch that is versatile and attractive. It isn't the last watch you'll ever want to own by makes for a really nice daily wear and out to do well for the brand in 2012. Look for it soon.

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This is the Armida A2, and I like it quite a lot. Let me explain why I think this is one watch that is worthy of your consideration.

Armida is a Hong Kong-based brand, using Fullswing for manufacturing, as do other brands such as the Helsons reviewed here.

This becomes very obvious once you see the Armida packaging:

That's the same bulletproof plastic cylinder as Helson with foam interior. Since the sourcing was so apparent, I decided to discuss it here a bit. Fullswing makes good stuff, and their prices are excellent. I actually like that the founders are up front about who makes their watches; there's too much secrecy and disinformation in this industry. Bravo!

Moving on to the watch itself:

• Automatic dive watch, ETA 2824 ($649) or Miyota 8215 ($499). Also available in PVD finish for $699 and $549.
• Water resistant to 500m
• Includes Oyster-style bracelet and Isofrane-style rubber strap
• Bracelet has screwed links, solid end links, fixed-length diver's extension, four micro adjustments and snap clasp with flip lock. Brushed finish throughout, 22mm tapering to 18 at the clasp, 4mm thick
• Sapphire crystal
• Stainless steel case, signed screwdown crown and caseback
• Lumed bezel (C3 SuperLuminova, very bright) and hands. Not sure what material the bezel is.
• 42mm case, 43mm at the bezel, 13mm thick, 22mm lugs and 51mm lug to lug
• 90g for the watch, 110g with strap and 175g with bracelet

Armida has a range of dive watch designs, with their no-nonsense formula right on their home page:

Our watches are tough and reliable, clean and easy to read, top quality, Tool diver watches and are very reasonably priced.

The A2 certainly qualifies. The design is known as a 'milsub,' or 'military submariner,' based on two Ministry of Defense contracts in the 1960s and 70s. The Omega Seamaster 300 and Rolex 5517, both quite similar in design due to the contract terms, are the parents of the genre. The result is one of my all-time favorite functional designs: 60-minute bezel, sword hands, dive bezel of course, as much lume as possible and a clean, legible dial. No cyclops, 15-minute bezel or excessive branding. The Armida adds some subtle refinements to the design: A steeper-sloped rehaut (more room for dial), a bit larger case at 42mm, and a low-key date window sans rim at 4:30. Of course, the modern improvements as well: robust 500m case, sapphire crystal, shock-protected ETA or Miyota movements, better lume and the new lumed bezel.

The milsub look is perhaps the only significant downside of this watch, in that it might be mistaken for the Rolex. However, very few people have seen a Rolex milsub, as their low production numbers command prices around $100,000 and without the Mercedes hands, cyclops and branding it doesn't look much like a modern model.

Personally, I care not at all. As I've said before, the military are pragmatic first and foremost, and their needs produced a superbly functional and versatile design. Lacking the polished shiny bits and bling, it can and does go from beach to jeans to suit with no effort at all. At 42mm it's the right medium sized watch, not too large and still able to slide under shirt cuffs at 13mm.

Fit and finish are excellent. The bezel, initially stiff, loosened up after a couple of days and is a nice, precise 120 clicks. The lume on it and the dial is excellent, as good as any I've seen. Lights up quickly, legible after a solid ten hours:

Armida regulates their watches before they ship, and the results are good. This one keeps time better than any watch I've seen, running under 1/2 second per day slow! Personally, unless you really want a beater, I'd recommend the ETA over the Miyota as the 8215 is less accurate and doesn't hack. The Miyota is, however, built to survive very rough treatment and years of no service.

The bezel has teeth cut at a 45 degree angle with just a bit of lip, making for good purchase from the side and above. A good design that doesn't need to be as tall as one with vertical teeth.

The case back is part of why it's comfortable to wear, with a smooth bowl shape and laser-engraved details. Notice also the drilled lugs and that the solid end links have small flanges to assist in changes. Laser-engraved signed crown, 7.1mm.

The sides of the case and the interior of the teeth are the only mirror-polished portions. A nicely made case. Drilled lugs speed strap and bracelet changes.

Bracelet, clasp and wetsuit extension. Machined and not stamped, solid stuff.

With the extension closed, also shows the beveled interior edges on the clasp that keep it from digging into your wrist. I should note that the bracelet also includes two half-links, so sizing it just right is easy to do.

Now that, I submit, is a classic look.

(Pardon the partial shadow)

Not too tall, not too heavy, stays put nicely. I wore it for swimming, cycling, a bit of volleyball and the like and it was just fine, never bumping the bone on my wrist. A good size.

The included rubber strap. Same as Helson, scented Isofrane-style. Big vents are good for super hot or humid weather.

I hope that I've managed to convey how much I like this one. It's not a watch that will garner attention or praise, but if you're looking for an affordable, well-made, versatile watch that you can wear for decades, the A2 is a winner. It's hard to explain, but after a month of wearing it I'm seriously debating selling my IWC and just keeping the A2. It really is that great a watch!

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More on SIHH we talk about Richard Mille RM 056 Sapphire cased watch and more from the show. We also talk about more reasonable watches like new stuff from Hamilton. John also goes out of his way to embarrass me.

Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 93 here.

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