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Hamilton Ventura XXL Watch In Men In Black III

admin — Thu, 24 May 2012 07:01:24 +0000

A new limited edition version of the Hamilton Ventura XXL watch will be worn by major characters in the new Men In Black III (3) movie that will open this month. I believe that previous Men In Black (MIB) movies also featured other versions of the famous Ventura watch. This newest version is the Ventura XXL model in polished steel, and it is a limited edition.

The Ventura is a very special model in not only Hamilton's history, but also American history. It is among the most iconic wrist watches ever designed - and it was a total USA baby. The original was released back in 1957. The image in this article with the older Ventura shows a model from 1969. I believe the original models were tuning fork based watches with electronic movements. These were the predecessors of quartz movements.

On and off, Ventura models have been in the Hamilton collection for years. The Ventura XXL that was released a few years ago was meant to be a larger, more modern version of the classic. It is 46mm by 45.5mm in size and comes here in a polished steel case. The design of the 2012 model is almost identical to that of the outgoing Ventura XXL limited edition model, but this is in polished steel versus PVD black coated steel. There is also a similar new model called the Ventura Medium. It comes in men's and women's versions and is 32.30mm by 50.30mm in size - shaped more similarly to the original.

The Ventura XXL is more triangular than the original, but feels similar in theme. The dial is interesting yet legible. The entire thing looks like a swoopy spaceship on your wrist. The case is curved for comfort, and the detailing is pretty nice. Over the dial is a sapphire crystal and the case is water resistant to 50 meters. You have to try one on if you never have.

This 2012 Hamilton Ventura XXL limited edition watch will come as a set of 999 pieces. The integration of the Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement is rather interesting as the round movement sits in the triangle-shaped case. Attached to the case is a thick black rubber strap. Style-wise this piece can't be beat - but that doesn't mean everyone is going to love it. It would be interesting to see Hamilton make the Ventura a more important arm of their collection. Price for the 2012 Hamilton Ventura XXL limited edition watch is $1,345.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 107

admin — Wed, 23 May 2012 21:30:04 +0000

John & I are together in Los Angeles recording episode 107. We talk about Ritmo Mundo, BRM, RGM, and more!

Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 107 here.

Download the MP3 here.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Chopard Mille Miglia GMT Chrono Watch

admin — Wed, 23 May 2012 07:02:45 +0000

For 2012 Chopard once again comes out with a new Mille Miglia watch. This time it's a GMT chronograph as a limited edition. According to Chopard, the Mille Miglia represents "consistently reinvented perfection". That sounds pretty lofty. I would go with "consistently renovated". That better represents how Chopard makes slows changes and visual enhancements to the core design. While these are expensive watches, I've always been happy with them when it comes to look, comfort, quality, and utility.

The Mille Miglia GMT Chrono is an evolution on a design that we all know. Tweaks here are interesting. Let's look at the back of the watch first. Usually there would be a sapphire crystal caseback window. Given that the watch contains a modified 7750 - that we've all see before - Chopard decided to make a solid caseback. They did it with a nice Mille Miglia race engraving surrounded by a ring of perlage. I don't hide the fact that I love perlage, so this design feature appeals to me. There was another limited edition Mille Miglia from a few years ago with perlage on the dial - that was cool as well.

The case is up a hair in size to 42.40mm wide. It is still about 15mm thick and has a nice black bezel that is here for the GMT hand. It is about time to expect ceramic bezel inserts on these watches, but I guess we aren't there yet. There also seem to be black inserts in the chronograph pushers, but Chopard doesn't explain what material they use for this. Note that the "1000 Miglia" arrow sign shows up on the watch dial, crown, and caseback. Call this watch the triple Mille Miglia if you will. I am surprised Chopard didn't use the arrow as the tip of the GMT or other hand. Hmmm.... ideas for future designs?

Chopard will offer the GMT Chrono in steel or 18k rose gold - both will be limited editions. Looking at the dial design you certainly see something unique. I don't know if it's the GMT bezel or something else, but while it certainly is a Mille Miglia, there is something quite distinct about this design. You can't deny that the proportions are pretty good on the dial. Though I think the hands could have been lengthened a bit throughout the piece. Nevertheless, legibility is still very high - a welcome signature element of most all Mille Miglia watches.

I am not sure what Mille Miglia watches aren't limited editions these days. Most all seem to be. The steel version will be available as a set of 2,012 pieces, while the 18k rose gold version will be available as a set of 250 pieces. Inside the watches are a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic movement. The movement has been upgraded with a GMT hand for a second time zone, and has been COSC Chronometer certified for accuracy. Price for the steel model is $6,610, and in 18k rose gold it is $20,880. For that cash you at least get the iconic racing tire tread rubber strap.

Tech specs from Chopard:

Case:

Steel or 18 ct rose gold
Total diameter 42.40 mm
Thickness 14.87 mm
Water resistance 50 metres
Steel or 18ct rose gold crown with Mille Miglia arrow logo
Steel and rubber or 18ct rose gold pushers
Glareproofed sapphire crystal with integrated magnifying glass and transferred black 6 and 12 o’clock markings
Closed and circular-grained back with 1000 Miglia arrow

Movement:

Mechanical self-winding chronograph
Total diameter 30.40 mm
- Number of jewels 25
- Power reserve 48 hours
- Frequency 28,800 vph
- Chronometer-certified (COSC)

Dial and hands:

Black dial with 3 black snailed hollowed counters at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock
Hour and minute hands and hour-markers rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version, enhanced with Superluminova
Central sweep seconds hand rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version, tipped with a red arrow
Hour and minute counter hands rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version
Red seconds counter hand

Functions and displays:

Central hour and minute display
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Chronograph
30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and central sweep seconds hand
Date window at 3 o’clock
Tachometric scale

Chopard Mille Miglia Limited Edition 1999 2000 Chrono 2 WATCHES
$7,000.00
Time Remaining: 9h 38m
Buy It Now for only: $7,000.00
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Chopard Mille Miglia Limited Edition Split Second Mens Watch 168513 3001
$9,500.00
Time Remaining: 1d 6h 48m
Buy It Now for only: $9,500.00
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CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA GMT LIMITED EDITION 2005 MENS WATCH STYLE 16 8994
$4,295.00
Time Remaining: 3d 6h 43m
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Chopard Mille Miglia MM Rosso Limited Edition Titanium
$3,295.00
Time Remaining: 4d 4h
Buy It Now for only: $3,295.00
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Chopard Mille Miglia 1000 Rosso 8407 Titanium Chronograph Limited Edition 500pcs
$3,400.00
Time Remaining: 5d 5h 36m
Buy It Now for only: $3,400.00
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Men Chopard Mille Miglia Limited Edition Chronograph Titanium Automatic Watch
$2,370.00
Time Remaining: 5d 6h 58m
Buy It Now for only: $2,370.00
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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Hublot King Power Usain Bolt Watch

admin — Tue, 22 May 2012 09:13:15 +0000

Hublot brand ambassador and all-around nice guy Usain Bolt just got his first limited edition watch. Usain Bolt is the fastest recorded runner and is often affectionately referred to as the "fastest man in the world". Actually he is not from Africa but rather Jamaica. A little while ago (before this watch was released) I got a chance to interview him. I actually asked him some questions about what a limited edition Hublot watch for him might look like. Let's see if his answers match up to the result.

Inherently there isn't much new here because this is your standard King Power Chronograph watch. I discuss it because I think Usain is pretty cool and it is interesting to see many of the "reasons" for Hublot limited edition watches. What is different are the little touches that make it special for Mr. Bolt. What a damn good last name for a champion runner right? I've always thought that. According to Hublot, the strap is made from "exactly the same leather as the shoes he wore when he broke the world record in Beijing in 2008". To be honest I am not sure what that means. Is it leather from the exact same pair of shoes... or the same kind of shoes? The piece is a limited edition of 250 watches - so I have a feeling that more than one pair of shoes was sacrificed in the making of this collection.

The watch case is 48mm wide in black ceramic. The gold tone is mixed with a dash of green in honor of the Jamaican flag, and are actually a product of using a 2N gold powder coating on the strap and flange ring. In the subsidiary seconds dial is a silhouette of Usain's signature pose. The best part is that it looks good on his wrist, and if you are a tall Jamaican Olympic runner it might look good on your wrist as well. Again, Hublot will make 250 pieces of the limited edition King Power Usain Bolt watch.

Tech specs from Hublot:

KING POWER USAIN BOLT
Reference: 703.CI.1129.NR.USB12
Series 250 pieces numbered from 01/250 to 250/250
Case: "King Power" - Diameter 48 mm in micro-blasted black ceramic
Bezel: Black ceramic, 6 black PVD H-shaped relief titanium screws
Crystal: Sapphire with grey minute track transfer, Interior/exterior anti-reflective coating
Bezel Lugs: Black composite resin
Lateral inserts: Black composite resin
Case-back: Micro-blasted black ceramic, Silhouette of Usain Bolt on sapphire case-back
Crown: Black PVD titanium with black rubber insert
Push-pieces: Black PVD titanium with black rubber inserts
Screws: Black PVD titanium
Water resistance: 10 ATM or approximately 100 metres
Dial Matt: black, circular satin-finished flange with 2N gold coating, Satin-finished and black nickel-coated indexes with black SuperLuminova™, Transfer of Usain Bolt's silhouette in meteor grey at 9 o'clock and 2N gold powder Hublot logo
Hands: Satin-finished and black nickel-coated with black SuperLuminova™
Movement: Calibre HUB4100
Mechanical: chronograph with automatic winding and central seconds hand. Small seconds at 9 o'clock
No. of components 252
Jewels: 27
Date: Date window at 4.30
Power reserve Approximately 42 hours
Strap: Adjustable in black rubber, Made from the same gold-coloured synthetic leather as Usain Bolt's shoes.
Clasp: King Power folding buckle in black micro-blasted PVD titanium
Micro-blasted black ceramic decorative plate

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Horizon, Altimeter, & Turn Coordinator Watches Hands-On

admin — Tue, 22 May 2012 07:02:26 +0000

The original Bell & Ross BR 01 watch often had the term "Instrument" associated with it. Bell & Ross wanted to make it clear that the timepiece was based on aircraft cockpit instruments - especially the clock. Fair enough. Then a couple of years ago, Bell & Ross started taking the concept even further - making BR 01 watches with dials (that did tell the time) based on non-clock instruments. That started moving things in interesting directions.

Each of these watches are limited editions and design experiments. Bell & Ross wants to offer wrist-mounted cockpit instruments and increasingly they are. So let's look at the three new for 2012 limited edition Bell & Ross BR 01-92 instrument watches. Previous years had models such as the BR 01 Radar, BR 01 Red Radar, and BR 01 Compass.

What I have done (thanks to Bell & Ross) is include pictures of the actual instruments each of these watches is based on. These aren't just actual cockpit instruments, but the same ones that Bell & Ross designers used when coming up with the designs for the BR 01 Horizon, BR 01 Altimeter, and BR 01 Turn Coordinator watches. The names, while not terribly creative, are useful as it helps identify exactly what instrument the watch is based on. Pretty cool right?

It is easy to tell the time on all of these? Not at all. For me the BR 01 Radar series was cool, but mentally the hardest to read. At the same time, I think the BR 01 Altimeter is super easy to read - and is non-coincidentally my favorite piece. Visually, the BR 01 Turn Coordinator is pretty interesting. It uses the same system as the BR 01 Compass to tell the time, which are discs instead of hands. You read the time where the numbers line up via the vertical line that goes down the middle. There is a small disc in the center for the running seconds. I think it would have been really cool for Bell & Ross to include the level ball in liquid on the timepiece as well.

The BR 01 Horizon is an interesting model that is the most avant garde. Here Bell & Ross decided to produce another watch (like the Radar) with no numeric markers. It is a bit of a departure from the actual horizon instrument, but I think Bell & Ross actually made it look nicer. Here there is just an hour and minute hand on a dial that actually looks cool, but is certainly an acquired taste. The details on these watches are impressive, and you see the slick sort of restrained design ethos that keeps Bell & Ross watches feeling themed while not chintzy.

It is possible that the BR 01 Altimeter is my favorite in the collection because it is the most watch-like. Though it is different enough to warrant a second look. Also, I like how Bell & Ross turned the pressure indicator into a big date indicator. This could quite possibly be the only "open" date window that I actually feel makes sense. I knew it would happen eventually!

Being BR 01 watches, each of these comes in a 46mm wide square steel case with a PVD black coating. The crystals are sapphire and they come with both a black rubber and canvas strap. Inside the watches are modified Swiss ETA 2892 automatic movements. Though it would seem to make sense that the BR 01 Altimeter has an ETA 2896 given that it has a big date complication. Regardless, the series number indicates it as being in the BR 01-92 collection. It doesn't really matter I guess as the movements are inherently very similar. Each of the BR 01 Horizon, Altimeter, and Turn Coordinator watches are limited to 999 pieces and should be a serious consideration if you are a fan of the BR 01 watch range.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Ulysse Nardin Executive Dual Time Watch Review

admin — Mon, 21 May 2012 07:02:43 +0000

I recall the first time that I saw the Executive Dual Time watch. I was visiting Ulysse Nardin at a watch trade show and saw some models I hadn't yet familiarized myself with being displayed. Clearly they were UN watches but they didn't really have that typical UN look many people associate with the brand. "Executive" in the name seemed to hint that UN wanted these watches to be aimed at business types looking for a solid daily wear. The construction was impressive and I couldn't get over that super legible dial - but did I like the watch?

After spending some time with a Ulysse Nardin Executive Dual Time watch I can easily say that I do in-fact really like the watch. At first I wasn't sure, but the piece really grew on me in a serious way - thanks in most part to a combination of factors including the movement, legibility and quality. I still don't know how it fits into the overall DNA of the Ulysse Nardin product family and frankly I don't even care. Ulysse Nardin is an independent watch maker - and they can design and release whatever they like without making sure it fits into some prescribed mold.

This specific Executive Dual Time watch is the reference # 243-00/42. Look online and you'll find a seriously intense assortment of styles in the collection. The steel (also available in 18k rose gold) case is 43mm wide and has a very broad lug structure and strap. This makes it feel larger on the wrist while not looking like a big watch. 43mm wide not considered too large today and the mostly round case with thick bezel keeps it from looking at all large on the wrist. The bezel mind you is black ceramic. Here the material is used properly to add color, shine, and of course ceramic's high level of scratch resistance.

Ulysse Nardin did a good job making the case interesting, but not too strange. Completely polished, the finishing is well-done and the little details on the case prevent it from being boring. The proprietary strap connection on the lugs forces you to buy only Ulysse Nardin straps, but you could argue it is worth the unique look. It is even easy to appreciate the detailing put into the crown guard and the crown with its applied UN logo. On the other side of the case are two ceramic pushers and a serial number plate. While this is not a limited edition watch, Ulysse Nardin likes to personalize each piece with a plate containing its unique serial number.

I am impressed that the Executive Dual Time has a water resistance of 100 meters. That isn't incredibly high or anything, but more than I would have expected in this style of watch. Over the dial is a sapphire crystal with the proper amount of AR coating to prevent as much glare as is possible. Another sapphire crystal is over the case back to show the movement.

Dial legibility, as I said, is very good. One of the key pluses of the collection in my opinion. On this model, the dial is a glossy black with a mixture of applied and printed hour markers. UN properly used diamond cut and polished hour markers and hands to create a high level of contrast but also retain that fancy sparkle people want from polished metal. At anything over $1,000 these days, brands have little excuse to not use diamond cut elements for the dials. Demand "diamond cut" people.

Design-wise, the dial has that large rectangular minute indicator with round subsidiary seconds dial, and other elements that don't seem to go together on paper. This seemingly random assortment of design cues from brands like Cartier and Roger Dubuis actually made sense together - but perhaps not at first. Like I said, I wasn't sold on the dial design of the watch until after I had lived with it for a while. Now I truly appreciate the combination of elegance and functionality. The dial does have lume, but not a whole lot. Quality SuperLumiNova is used in part on the hands and some hour markers on the inner scale. Having said that, the high contrast dial by itself is easy to read in the dark without the lume.

So what about the dual time function? Ulysse Nardin released this system apparently back in 1996, and it still remains a strong module the brand manufactures. Inside this watch is the caliber UN-24 automatic movement. This is composed of a modified base Swiss ETA 2892 automatic movement. On it is a special Ulysse Nardin module which adds a big date indicator and the second time zone. What impresses me about the UN-24 are two things. First, the movement works really smoothly. You get the feeling that all the kinks were worked out of the movement long ago and making adjustments feels secure and controlled. Sometimes movements feel as though they are barely working and that development was rushed - not here though.

A feature on the date adjustment that you'll appreciate is the ability to adjust the date both backwards and forwards. Trust me - this is a good thing. The dual time feature is indicated via a window that shows the time in 24 hour format. This is the same as a GMT function, but it uses a disc versus GMT hand to indicate the second timezone. When you adjust the time via the crown, both times change. The trick is in the two pushers on the left side of the case - these are used to change the local time (main dial) both forward and back in time. The result is an easy to read, easy to adjust GMT watch for traveling. The pushers even have handy plus and minus symbols on them. The ability to move the date and time zone in both directions shows a dedication to the user experience that is actually a bit rare in this industry.

More than many watches, the Executive Dial Time watch received a fair number of compliments while on my wrist. I guess it does have a nice "executive" look to it. The strap is available in both textured rubber and alligator. The double-fold over push-button deployant is made from smooth polished metal in a style I've never seen before. Even that element has a lot of attention put into it. Overall, it is the many small details that make this a good watch. I glowingly praise it to anyone who might benefit from its functions and can see this handsome watch sitting on their wrist. As seen, the retail price for the Ulysse Nardin Executive Dual Time watch is $8,700.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands-On

admin — Sun, 20 May 2012 14:13:57 +0000

Swiss watch brand Dubey & Schaldenbrand is back after a slight hiatus and some internal reorganization. Their US distribution is also brand new. The newly livened Dubey & Schalden-brand (get it?) features three new models including this pretty Grand Dome collection. Set in a tonneau style case, this is the result of a lot of internal work in-house.

While some brands stress the production of their own movements, it is sort of the reverse at Dubey & Schaldenbrand right now. At Dubey, they make their own cases, dials and hands. While they produce some modules and decorate and finish movements - right now they mostly use base ETA movements. The production of their cases and dials is really a plus for them and collectors. This means that they have a lot of control and flexibility in their designs and parts - which benefits everyone.

The Grand Dome models come in steel or gold (or two-tone) cases. Size is 37mm wide by 52mm tall. I wouldn't call it large, but it isn't a small watch either. On the wrist, tonneau-shaped watches look interesting, but it is a look that you need to try on your wrist to get a feel for. The case is all polished and feels good to the touch. Quality is there and the design is classic and attractive in my opinion.

Dial designs are quite interesting. You can see that the layout of the 7751 has been reduced to make the display symmetrical. There are a few different dial displays - and each is both three dimensional and attractive. One version has a more retro dial that will appeal to some people as well. By the way, the watch is technically called the Grand Dome DT. Not sure what that DT stands for. Hmm. Most of the dials really excite me. They are really well done and I like the finishing, detailing, and the hands.

The simple act of removing the subsidiary seconds dial mixed with the synchronized 24 hour hand on the left really cleans up the dial a lot. You are still left with more or less all the functions that you need. If you want to measure the seconds you can just use the chronograph. The 7751 functions that remain are the 12 hour chronograph, time, moon phase indicator, and annual calendar. What I also like is how Dubey shrank the peripheral date ring. The 7751 uses a large hand to indicate the date around the periphery of the dial. Frankly I am not a fan of this the majority of the time. Here, the Grand Dome uses a shorter hand and smaller ring to display the date in a much more attractive manner. Textures and colors are great overall.

According to Dubey & Schaldenbrand, the movement finishing and decoration is done in-house. As you can see, on one limited edition model of the Grand Dome there is a lot of hand engraving and decor on the automatic rotor as well as on a movement bridge. It looks quite nice. This is another one of those instances where a brand is able to take something common like a 7750/7751 base and make it look really nice using a lot of their own in-house talent and effort. It goes without saying that the movements are visible through a rear-mounted sapphire caseback window.

What I said to Dubey & Schaldenbrand is that the Grand Dome watches have a distinct look but also feel acceptably traditional. That means they look unique but are also not outside the range of "I can visualize myself wearing that because it is a look I am familiar with". There is a lot of cool stuff coming from the brand - and even a new tourbillon for 2012. The brand wants to offer nice stuff at a mid to higher-range luxury price point. Even the Grand Dome models come in versions with diamonds (also ladies pieces). Prices start at $11,300, jump up to about $15,000, then up to around $30,000, and then top out at $75,850.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

admin — Sat, 19 May 2012 07:05:26 +0000

American automotive legend Carroll Shelby passed away recently. He worked up until the end of his life and helped changed the face of what was cool in American automobiles. He is most well-known for his long partnership with Ford. Producing many versions of the Shelby Mustang, as well as the famous Shelby Cobra car. Just before he died, Shelby America released a new version of the Shelby Mustang called the Shelby 1000. It is meant to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the company and has 1,100hp. So where does that 1000 number come from? I really don't know.

Shelby partnered with David Yurman for a special limited edition version of their Revolution sport watch called the David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition. Actually there are two versions of the watch. One is strictly limited, and the other will have a "limited production." The cool watch gracefully embodies the spirit of the Cobra and the famous sport's marque. Other brands such as MARCH LA.B have worked with Shelby before. This one however is specially made for the Shelby 1000 and the 50th anniversary of the car maker. At the same time it can live alone as a cool Shelby Cobra themed chronograph.

The already handsome David Yurman Revolution received a few impressive modifications for this limited edition piece. Wait a minute, since when does David Yurman make cool sport watches? Well as of recently I guess. The long time watch maker has seemingly gotten more involved with sport watches and this is proof they more or less know what they are doing. I guess that means David Yurman is back on the list of brands to watch.

The Revolution Shelby 1000 watch is 43.5mm wide in steel. The limited edition version is in black vulcanized rubber coated steel. The normal version has some rubber elements with a brushed steel case. The bezel has a tachymeter (of course) and the sides of the case are black on both models. I really like how the chronograph pushers are integrated into the design to look like crown guards. I have always had a weakness for this design style.

On the dial are the signature Shelby double racing stripes and of course the cobra. It just isn't Shelby without the cobra figurine. While I typically don't like shared dial branding, I think the David Yurman and Shelby names co-exist in a reasonable way on the dial. As an American car lover, it is pretty sweet. Cooler still is the strap. Now that is a clever piece of design. David Yurman continued the look of the cobra snake body into the rubber strap. How sweet is that? I really like this design element a lot actually - even though on paper it could sound cheesy.

Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic chronograph movement. On the back of the case is Carroll Shelby's signature (no he didn't sign each one). The 12 hour register was removed on the dial to offer a cleaner bi-compax chronograph layout. It works for the design, and I appreciate the instrumental design of the chronograph subdials.

Coated in black rubber, the David Yurman Shelby 1000 watch will be limited to 150 pieces and be priced at $8,600. The steel version that is not limited to a specific production amount (will likely be make for a year or so before production ends), will be priced at $7,200. Seems like a rather large price gap between the two right? The watches are very cool and look for availability in November 2012.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

James Stacey — Fri, 18 May 2012 19:07:25 +0000

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been riding a wave of high praise in the wake of their SIHH announcements of vintage-inspired watches, such as the Tribute to Memovox Deep Sea of 2011 and the Tribute to Deep Sea Chronograph from earlier this year. While we like tributes as much as the next guy, we really like it when a watch manufacturer, especially one as well-regarded as JLC, can dig deep and create something that stands on its own. Case in point, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph, a more modern and practical variation of the winning formula that gave birth to the Tribute to Deep Sea Chronograph.

This 42mm dive-ready chronograph features a number of changes over the 40.5 mm Tribute design we saw earlier this year. The vintage lume has thankfully been replaced with crisp white SuperLumiNova, the two register display has been upgraded to to a trio of matched sub dials and the fixed bezel of the vintage-inspired model has been swapped out in favor of an ISO 6425 compliant unidirectional rotating bezel. I find the overall design is reminiscent of the Omega Speedmaster, but that is likely due to its largely monochrome color scheme and piston-style pushers. I am a huge fan of dressy divers so it is of little surprise that I think this new JLC looks great and that I really appreciate a style that makes as much sense while out for dinner as it does while diving.

The dial is nicely proportioned and features appropriately sized hands and markers, which should prove to be legible in a variety of conditions. The subdial at three (a 30 minute totalizer) and nine (a 12 hour totalizator) oddly remind me of the gauges seen in old Ford Mustangs and I really like the long hands and almost Bauhaus font used for the numbering. While this is a more modern style than the Tribute version of the Deep Sea, it is still a classic and rather reserved interpretation of the dive chronograph, especially for JLC. I suppose Jaeger-LeCoultre contrasts designs like the Deep Sea Chronograph with the more raucous and complex styling seen in parts of the AMVOX and Master Compressor lines (illustrated below).

A balanced and reserved style is actually not the Deep Sea Chronograph's only notable attribute. Just take a closer look at the photos. Below the "Jaeger-LeCoultre" on the dial, there is a small aperture which has three phases depending on the current status of the chronograph - be it idle, running, or paused. When idle, the aperture shows an inconspicuous white circle but this will transition to being white and red while the chronograph is running and a solid red when the measure is paused. Jaeger-LeCoultre calls this a "chronograph operation indicator" and it is essentially a way for a diver to be able to quickly verify that the chronograph is running and timing their dive (or in my case, more likely a French press). I like the simple and crisp white of the idle phase but LOVE the white/red of the running phase, which has no doubt been designed to be reminiscent of a diving flag.

This is an example of simple but thoughtful design which adds a touch of cool to this luxury 100m dive chronograph but manages to do so without compromising its understated aesthetic. I love a complication that is simultaneously cool enough to show your watch nerd buddies and yet nearly invisible to the horologically untrained eye. That said, if I were fortunate enough to own such a watch, it would likely only ever get wet if I fell into a pool, as I don't posses the fortitude to actually take such a watch diving. As capable as this ten thousand dollar dive chronograph may be, it would certainly only see desk-dive use under my care.

Under the matte black dial beats the Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house calibre 758 which is a 47 jewel automatic movement featuring a 65 hour power reserve. The Deep Sea Chronograph appears to be the only JLC that features this movement and specific style of chronograph operation indicator. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Geographic Navy Seals features a similar aperture, but it is used as an am/pm indicator as opposed to a chronograph operation indicator.

This version of the Deep Sea Chronograph does a lot that I love, it forgoes the Tribute vibe but instead makes for a more compelling and likely more timeless design as its not so heavily anchored in the past or reflective of the current trends. It would have been nice for buyers to at least have the option of a bracelet, although one could argue that a bracelet should be included, given the price tag of $10, 800 USD. Considering Jaeger-LeCoultre's stance as a top tier manufacture, the Deep Sea Chronograph is a fitting addition to their line up that combines everyday wearability with a dive-ready and practical feature set. What's not to like?

[Editor's note: Nice restrained design all around making for a good daily wear. Shows the flexibility of the JLC brand offering modern and vintage inspired watches with ease. Though, pictures of a vintage inspired watch on a super-modern diver are ironic, to say the least. Let's wear this watch couch surfing instead.]

Written by James Stacey

Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116713 LN Watch Review

admin — Fri, 18 May 2012 07:05:48 +0000

Article and images contributed by Michael Maximilien:

Let's be honest, Rolex watches are one of the society's symbol of success around the world. If you want people to know you've made it, then get a Rolex. And, this message is universal, it hardly matters where you are on the globe.

The Rolex models don't change much and some are so common that on a recent trip to the US east coast, I counted three of us, in close proximity, wearing Rolexes in the train at Atlanta's Hartsfield Jackson airport going from one terminal to the next.

While wearing a Rolex tends to exude this message of "I made it" (intentionally or not), there are however, plenty of other reasons why buying a Rolex is a great investment and will get you on the road to horological satisfaction and connoisseurship…

When I started my timepiece collection, I consider myself fortunate to have bought a Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 116713 LN) as my first timepiece. It is one of Rolex's many iconic designs, and to be frank, it still remains one of my favorite watches to this day.

It's the measuring stick that I use to compare all of my other acquisitions --- those more or less expensive. I love the GMT-Master II for its classic design, its incredible construction, its feel, and of course the impact that it projects when I wear it.

Rolex created the first Oyster Perpetual GMT watch in the 1950s for Pan Am pilots who wanted a quick way to check and know the time in different timezones. The classic design has gone through various refinements, but it remains pretty much the same today.

The original Rolex GMT was one of the first watches on the market that could tell time in two timezones at once. Essentially, Rolex added a fourth hand (the green hand with the large arrow head, or the GMT hand) that circles the dial in 24 hours. The great innovation at the time was to create a rotating bezel with 24 hour markers that can be adjusted as one moves to different timezones.

There are two primary ways to make use of the GMT feature. First, with the bezel marker set to 12 o'clock, change the GMT to point to the current Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) which is the same as the timezone in London. Change the hour hands and set it to the current timezone. With the GMT-Master II this is done easily as the minutes move with the GMT hand when the crown (unscrewed) is pulled two positions and the hours hand moves by itself when the crown is in the first position.

That way, the GMT hand will indicate the current GMT reference time and using the bezel, one can move forward or backward to match the difference between GMT and the timezone you want to know. So in the pictures in this post, my GMT-Master II shows the time in US PDT and the GMT hand shows US EST which is -5 hours from GMT (or -4 hours as in now for daylight savings time).

The second way, is to use the GMT hand and the bezel to indicate your home time. As you travel to different timezones, you can change to local time by unscrewing the crown and pulling it in the first position and turning it. In this second usage mode, only two times are readable and since the bezel is not being used for timezone changes, it's not the most effective use of the watch's features.

The GMT-Master II reviewed here is the two-tone gold and stainless version. It uses Rolex's famous oyster case at 40 mm and it weighs in at 160 grams. The weight is due in part to the gold material and to Rolex's usage of high-grade 904L steel which is forged completely in-house and is supposed to be highly polishable and very resistant to corrosion. The gold is solid 18-karat which is also used in the bezel and the dial markers.

Two of my favorite features, which are new in this model, are the oysterlock with easylink clasp and the ceramic bezel. First, the clasp. It is secured with two locks, the first to close the bracelet and the second to lock it with a fall over gold buckle adorned with the Rolex crown logo. It is by far my favorite clasp on a steel bracelet watch as it is comfortable yet very secure. It has a feel that you must wear to understand… simply superb.

In this version, reference 116713 LN, one of the main new innovations is the use of a ceramic material for the bezel dubbed Cerachrom. According to Rolex, the result is a virtually scratch-proof bezel. Rolex also created a special patented nano-particle process to paint the bezel markers with gold, guaranteeing that they will remain timeless like the gold links.

In addition, what sets this bezel apart is the feel when turning it. The resistance is measured and the fluted marks make it easy to grip. It's simply a joy to use and I look forward to changing it to check different times, even when I usually leave it to show EST time...

Like all Rolexes, the movement is in-house and for this version, contains the Rolex Parachrom hairspring which is supposed to be better at resisting the negative effects of magnetic fields and thus keeping an accurate beat over the years. The sapphire crystal has some of the best anti-reflective coating (AR) I have ever seen on a watch. This makes the bezel visible at even the thinnest of angles…

The crystal contains a magnifying bump above the date. This makes the date visible at a glance. Some might see this as an unnecessary blemish on an otherwise perfect and symmetrical design but I believe that it is very functional and in time, I learned to appreciate and actually like this feature quite a bit.

The GMT-Master II reference 116713 LN retails for $11,750 for the two-tone gold and steel version reviewed here. There is also an all-steel version, reference 116710 LN ($7,900) and an all-gold reference 116718 LN ($29,500). Rolex also makes a yellow gold version with a green dial and various versions in white and yellow gold adorned with diamonds and other precious gems which all go for well above the $30,000 price point.

If I have any negative feelings about this watch is that the gold links will scratch. Mine did, ever so slightly after I wore it the very first time. Of course, this proneness to scratches is one of the consequences of wearing a gold watch (the material is relatively soft, compared to steel) and since I love the look of the watch so much, every blemish is accentuated in my eyes.

Besides this small nitpick, I would say that if you want a timeless classic that you can wear everyday for the rest of your life while lifting your spirits and confidence, then the Rolex GMT-Master II is the watch to consider getting. It won't be unique and you can expect to see a few others wearing it at a wedding or the next business meeting… However, you can also rest assured that you are wearing a superbly crafted timepiece that is simply superlative.